Question about making recumbent e-trike

LexHammer

10 mW
Joined
Mar 25, 2018
Messages
34
Hello,
I was thinking of building 12KW ebike with Enduro frame and 72v45Ah battery, for long range travel. But recently i saw recumbent trikes and i love the idea of comfort and low air drag + alot of space for battery, so now im thinking of building electric recumbent trike from KMX Typhoon F8. Can you asnwer me some questions about it:
1. Not sure which motor to choose - CYC X1 Pro 72v 65A mid drive or QS205 motor 72v 100-150A on the back wheel?
Not sure if the CYC wont brake that long chain and not sure if i have to do any mods to have the QS205 work
2. Do i need suspension for electric trike, becasue this trike doesnt have and those with suspesnion are at least x2 the price
3. How is the handling of the recumbent trikes with 40-50 mph?

Any other advices are appreciated.

Thank you!
 

Attachments

  • Side.jpg
    Side.jpg
    28.4 KB · Views: 896
All trikes become twitchier the faster you go.

This trike, because of its very low backrest angle, might be an exception, but my experience with recumbent tadpole trikes is that they don't have a lot of rear wheel traction to work with. There's no use paying for, and lugging around, more power than you can stick to the ground. If you want to use a high power (3kW+) hub motor in a trike like that, put the battery on a rear rack for more weight over the rear wheel.
 
I'm assuming that you've ridden a recumbent? Before you commit to one, take a long spin on a borrowed bike, and make sure that you're ok with your head being at SUV hubcap height.
 
LeftieBiker said:
take a long spin on a borrowed bike

Borrowed trike. Recumbent bicycles are usually much higher off the ground, since they don't have the tip over problem. I can see over cars. Trike riders look under them. I see them every once in a while on the mixed use paths, but not often out in traffic.
 
if I put a gallon of milk on the rear rack of my trike it will want to flip. you want the battery low and forward. pretty much need a rear suspension. es member adam333 is a kmx guy and makes/sells custom suspensions heres a link.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=78893
I like my trike use it all the time but sometimes youll need to go the long way around, it kind of handicaps you, so ive got other bikes
 
That's the build would like to do for my second trike; fun trike, race trike, danger trike :shock:

Have not read or talked to people riding very far at 40 - 50 mph. Might be that riding in traffic on a trike is dangerous, you are below the windows and line of site. Most of us use Flags and lights to be seen.

There are trike builds here with the power you are talking about. will need to search and read up on the problems and the fun.

Everyone here is guessing you have not spent much time on a trike. It is a different animal. Front wheels need to be set correctly to get both handling and tire wear. Two types of steering Under Seat Steering USS and direct steering like the KMX. Direct steering takes a light touch, little input, a lot of response. Takes time to get used to it. I can not peddle at high cadence 80+ and keep the trike steady above 25 mph. Let my brother ride it and scared him.

Only running at 2.6 kw and top speed 53 kph / 30 mph, will up that speed this summer with faster wound motor of the same type. Hopefully to 45 mph, will see how that goes.
 
LexHammer said:
<snip>
for long range travel.
<snip>
recumbent trikes and i love the idea of comfort and low air drag
Comfort...sort of.

Laid that far back, your neck may get uncomfortable tilted down that far to look forward (rather than upward), over time, even with a well-fitting head and neck rest. (lay in bed propped up in that position for as long as you would want to ride, and see how you feel). And that assumes a smooth ride on perfect surfaces, without being janked and jostled around like you will be even at slow speeds on actual typical imperfect or potholed roads, much less the beating you'll take at 40-50mph. :(



Also, and even more important...."long range travel" from many people with undefined builds means riding on highways between cities, or at least on very long stretches of other very-high-speed high-traffic roadways.

On a trike like this, most of the cars will have tires taller than your head.

They can't see you; you're well below all the traffic around you.

They won't bother to notice you even if they could see you, because you're not a car or truck or something else that might hurt their vehicle if they hit it. (no, not everyone is like this, but you should assume they are for your own safety).

You can add things to make yourself visible above the traffic, but simple flags and whatnot aren't likely sufficient, and they're all going to add drag. The more visible you want to be, the more surface area you'll need. The more surface area you use, the more drag they will add.

Daylight visibility is a LOT harder to achieve than nighttime visibility. And neither one does any good if you're hidden behind other traffic. (as traffic shifts around, some drivers anticipate the space left behind to be something they can move into, and they don't typically leave enough time to react in for when they finally see you (if they see you at all).

For the nighttime visibility, you can cover the trike in lights that light up the entire space around you, including and especially the road surface in all directions, which makes you look larger than you are, and less likely for someone to just ignore you, as they can see you from a much longer distance before they run you over.

For daytime...you have to actually make yourself larger to be seen as larger, to be seeable from further distances. More surface area. There's no way to use the surface area of the road and surroundings to make yourself appear larger and more visible.


I ride in traffic in the city. I try to avoid faster roads, but it's not always possible, so when I do have to be on them, I'm on them at night, and the SB Cruiser trike (which is a tall delta with a large cargo pod as the rear end) has a lot of downlighting to make it appear larger, and it also has body ligthing that shines on the trike itself to make it visible even when no other lights are shining on it, plus it has strips of LED lighting outlining it's shape, that can be seen for a very long distance. (it also has DOT turn signals, etc, but those aren't directly for visibility, just for communicating intent to other traffic since nobody has a clue what handsignals are even if they bothered looking for them).

This lighting makes nighttime riding relatively safe. Relatively. I know that people *can* see me, and almost always it's obvious they do. Sometimes, even with all this, I still get people surprised by my presence on the road, because they were looking for another car, truck, etc., and I'm not what they expected to see, so their brain filtered me out of the stuff on the road (this is just how your brain does things). Haven't been runover yet, but there have been some interesting moments.


But in daylight it is nowhere near as visible as a car, and in traffic when the car behind me changes lanes and the one behind that one thinks they are about to have a clear path, that car may suddenly acclerate and then come very close to me before slowing, sometimes honking at me (sometimes even yelling, though that's rare), sometimes just veering into the next lane (with traffic in it) enough to go around me anyway without slowing down at all. So far no one has plowed into me, because the back of the trike is quite visible when you're right up at it, as it is taller than typical driver eye-level in a car...but still well-below that of an SUV. (it might be near the top of their hood...for a small SUV).

So I don't go on faster / bigger roads in the daytime if there's any choice. I'd rather putter along on the sidewalk at walking speed, or twist and turn thru back streets for three times the travel distance.


At night, the lighting means just about every car goes the entire lane around me, but in daytime they often pass in the same lane quite close to me.



+ alot of space for battery,
If you do what some have done (adam3333, I think it is) and build a big lowslung "tray box" around the seat base, then yes. Otherwise, no there is not much space on there. No more really than on a bike. Your body and legs and arms take up all the space you may think is there.

If you havent' actually sat on one or ridden one like this, you need to do so before you proceed any further, so you can really understand the issues involved. ;)


QS205 motor
These are very heavy. They may have a lot of torque or speed (dpeends on the winding and the controller/battery which, if either), but you'll pay for this with a fair bit of drag when not powered, and more mass to accelerate each time, or when climbing hills.

2. Do i need suspension for electric trike, becasue this trike doesnt have and those with suspesnion are at least x2 the price
3. How is the handling of the recumbent trikes with 40-50 mph?
At those speeds, regardless of what you ride, you're going to require really good suspension (I would guess a lot better than that offered on even 2xprice units), unless you are on perfectly smooth surfaces.

If not, you're probably going to get launched into the air, or flipped, or break wheels, on various road imperfections, much less typical potholes, etc. The smaller your wheels are, the worse this problem is (bike or trike).

Even with "good" suspension, if it's not well-designed, you could have have bump-steer that could cause you to flip with high-speed pothole or debris encounters.


And on a trike, you have three separate tracks you have to keep away from all the road surface problems that must be avoided, rather than just one track with a bike. (at most, two in a curving or changing path).

I'm on a simple delta trike, that weighs 500lbs+ with me on it, no suspension, and I get bounced up in the air at just *20MPH* with typical road surfaces all the time. I'd probably be thrown off the trike and the trike flipped over if I did that at 40-50MPH.

I don't like imagining what would happen if it was a couple hundred pounds less, without the mass of the hubmotors in the outboard wheels helping hold the sides down to the road. (it was worse when it was lighter, perhaps a hundred pounds ore more lighter, before i added so many things to it to do the jobs I need it to do for me).



All that said....trikes have their uses, and can be fun too. But I don't know that you're going to get what you want like this.




I think you should write down your specific mission statement and goals, and then list each and every specific need and requirement you have to do those things.

Then list everything you *can't* do, *can't* have, and *won't* accept, etc.

Then consider your budget, and put that down.

Then post this as a complete detailed list, so that we can help you figure out a way to achieve these things.
 
Well, every time I see somebody say 50 mph on any type of bicycle, I start saying get a motorcycle.

In your case, you seem to be seeking comfort. The most comfortable gas motorcycle you can get, is a large touring scooter. This is what I did, I had the Yamaha 400, till it burned up in the battery fire, and now I have the Suzuki 400.

Does up to 85 mph, making it a true highway vehicle. The seating position is a lot more comfortable than regular motorcycles. Has a big fairing and windscreen, meaning you can ride in rain and keep your feet dry. Its perhaps not as comfortable as a bent trike, but its not going to be dangerous at 50 mph like any bike is. Im just talking stability at 50 mph, and then you have the extra hazards AW did a great job of stating. Get a scooter which has daytime running lights, wear your yellow body armor, and get out into the traffic and keep up, where its safer.

Oh, and the cost? Well my 50 mph racing bicycle was eating up batteries pretty regular. It cost about a dollar a mile, but that is going fast as possible all the time in that case. 30 mph commuter bikes ran about 25 or 30 cents a mile, again, mainly because of battery costs. Tires added up too, but that happens on the scooter as well.

The scooters I buy cheap, well under 3000 dollars. Then they last forever, unless you actually set yours on fire. Cheap to insure, for me anyway, less than 200 bucks a year. Cost per mile on them, including new tires every year, and $3.50 gas, about 12 cents a mile. 70 mpg, so not bad compared to the big Harleys, that get about 30 mpg.

If you want a fast, comfortable, cheap vehicle, get yourself a burgman or a Yamaha majesty. Don't get a cheap china 150 cc. They are not as reliable. The smaller honda is though.

I never said don't build the 50 mph bike though!!!!! Build that for fun, using the fun budget, which just got bigger since you slashed your regular transportation costs.
 
amberwolf said:
LexHammer said:
<snip>
for long range travel.
<snip>
recumbent trikes and i love the idea of comfort and low air drag
Comfort...sort of.

Laid that far back, your neck may get uncomfortable tilted down that far to look forward (rather than upward), over time, even with a well-fitting head and neck rest. (lay in bed propped up in that position for as long as you would want to ride, and see how you feel). And that assumes a smooth ride on perfect surfaces, without being janked and jostled around like you will be even at slow speeds on actual typical imperfect or potholed roads, much less the beating you'll take at 40-50mph. :(



Also, and even more important...."long range travel" from many people with undefined builds means riding on highways between cities, or at least on very long stretches of other very-high-speed high-traffic roadways.

On a trike like this, most of the cars will have tires taller than your head.

They can't see you; you're well below all the traffic around you.

They won't bother to notice you even if they could see you, because you're not a car or truck or something else that might hurt their vehicle if they hit it. (no, not everyone is like this, but you should assume they are for your own safety).

You can add things to make yourself visible above the traffic, but simple flags and whatnot aren't likely sufficient, and they're all going to add drag. The more visible you want to be, the more surface area you'll need. The more surface area you use, the more drag they will add.

Daylight visibility is a LOT harder to achieve than nighttime visibility. And neither one does any good if you're hidden behind other traffic. (as traffic shifts around, some drivers anticipate the space left behind to be something they can move into, and they don't typically leave enough time to react in for when they finally see you (if they see you at all).

For the nighttime visibility, you can cover the trike in lights that light up the entire space around you, including and especially the road surface in all directions, which makes you look larger than you are, and less likely for someone to just ignore you, as they can see you from a much longer distance before they run you over.

For daytime...you have to actually make yourself larger to be seen as larger, to be seeable from further distances. More surface area. There's no way to use the surface area of the road and surroundings to make yourself appear larger and more visible.


I ride in traffic in the city. I try to avoid faster roads, but it's not always possible, so when I do have to be on them, I'm on them at night, and the SB Cruiser trike (which is a tall delta with a large cargo pod as the rear end) has a lot of downlighting to make it appear larger, and it also has body ligthing that shines on the trike itself to make it visible even when no other lights are shining on it, plus it has strips of LED lighting outlining it's shape, that can be seen for a very long distance. (it also has DOT turn signals, etc, but those aren't directly for visibility, just for communicating intent to other traffic since nobody has a clue what handsignals are even if they bothered looking for them).

This lighting makes nighttime riding relatively safe. Relatively. I know that people *can* see me, and almost always it's obvious they do. Sometimes, even with all this, I still get people surprised by my presence on the road, because they were looking for another car, truck, etc., and I'm not what they expected to see, so their brain filtered me out of the stuff on the road (this is just how your brain does things). Haven't been runover yet, but there have been some interesting moments.


But in daylight it is nowhere near as visible as a car, and in traffic when the car behind me changes lanes and the one behind that one thinks they are about to have a clear path, that car may suddenly acclerate and then come very close to me before slowing, sometimes honking at me (sometimes even yelling, though that's rare), sometimes just veering into the next lane (with traffic in it) enough to go around me anyway without slowing down at all. So far no one has plowed into me, because the back of the trike is quite visible when you're right up at it, as it is taller than typical driver eye-level in a car...but still well-below that of an SUV. (it might be near the top of their hood...for a small SUV).

So I don't go on faster / bigger roads in the daytime if there's any choice. I'd rather putter along on the sidewalk at walking speed, or twist and turn thru back streets for three times the travel distance.


At night, the lighting means just about every car goes the entire lane around me, but in daytime they often pass in the same lane quite close to me.



+ alot of space for battery,
If you do what some have done (adam3333, I think it is) and build a big lowslung "tray box" around the seat base, then yes. Otherwise, no there is not much space on there. No more really than on a bike. Your body and legs and arms take up all the space you may think is there.

If you havent' actually sat on one or ridden one like this, you need to do so before you proceed any further, so you can really understand the issues involved. ;)


QS205 motor
These are very heavy. They may have a lot of torque or speed (dpeends on the winding and the controller/battery which, if either), but you'll pay for this with a fair bit of drag when not powered, and more mass to accelerate each time, or when climbing hills.

2. Do i need suspension for electric trike, becasue this trike doesnt have and those with suspesnion are at least x2 the price
3. How is the handling of the recumbent trikes with 40-50 mph?
At those speeds, regardless of what you ride, you're going to require really good suspension (I would guess a lot better than that offered on even 2xprice units), unless you are on perfectly smooth surfaces.

If not, you're probably going to get launched into the air, or flipped, or break wheels, on various road imperfections, much less typical potholes, etc. The smaller your wheels are, the worse this problem is (bike or trike).

Even with "good" suspension, if it's not well-designed, you could have have bump-steer that could cause you to flip with high-speed pothole or debris encounters.


And on a trike, you have three separate tracks you have to keep away from all the road surface problems that must be avoided, rather than just one track with a bike. (at most, two in a curving or changing path).

I'm on a simple delta trike, that weighs 500lbs+ with me on it, no suspension, and I get bounced up in the air at just *20MPH* with typical road surfaces all the time. I'd probably be thrown off the trike and the trike flipped over if I did that at 40-50MPH.

I don't like imagining what would happen if it was a couple hundred pounds less, without the mass of the hubmotors in the outboard wheels helping hold the sides down to the road. (it was worse when it was lighter, perhaps a hundred pounds ore more lighter, before i added so many things to it to do the jobs I need it to do for me).



All that said....trikes have their uses, and can be fun too. But I don't know that you're going to get what you want like this.




I think you should write down your specific mission statement and goals, and then list each and every specific need and requirement you have to do those things.

Then list everything you *can't* do, *can't* have, and *won't* accept, etc.

Then consider your budget, and put that down.

Then post this as a complete detailed list, so that we can help you figure out a way to achieve these things.

Thank you for your answer.
Actually i dont like traveling on busy roads. I mostly travel on roads wiht 3-4 cars/min an dmost of the places i want to go to are with this kind of roads.
I dont think there will be a problem with the laid back possition, becasue most of the time at home im exactly at this position, even now.
About the visibility, i read a couple of threads on forums where recumbent trike users said they are more visible and get more respec than on their bikes. One of the reason is the WTF factor. There is also this video :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUp7fNSIdM0
About the battery, there is enough space behind the seat to fit the battery and controller, so there wont be any need for building tray box for it.
I know QS motor is heavy but i've seen alot of trikes with it or similar to it. The power needed to accelerate depends on the way i accelerate and if i wont to be efficent, i will be easy on the throttle. But i wasnt going to use the QS motor if i want to drive with 30 km/h all the time :) So QS motor is a must. Other option is BBSHD but its too underpowered for what i want and the risk of snapping the long chain...
The only downsides i see are, like you said, the three tracks and the potholes on the road. Dont know how it will feel with trike. I read that the seat and big baloon tires like Shwalbe Big Apple do a good job in softening the imperfections. I guess i will have to try and see.
Yesteraday i did 60 km trip on my bike and my ass was hurting... and i thought what would it be on the trike :)
 
dogman dan said:
Well, every time I see somebody say 50 mph on any type of bicycle, I start saying get a motorcycle.

In your case, you seem to be seeking comfort. The most comfortable gas motorcycle you can get, is a large touring scooter. This is what I did, I had the Yamaha 400, till it burned up in the battery fire, and now I have the Suzuki 400.

Does up to 85 mph, making it a true highway vehicle. The seating position is a lot more comfortable than regular motorcycles. Has a big fairing and windscreen, meaning you can ride in rain and keep your feet dry. Its perhaps not as comfortable as a bent trike, but its not going to be dangerous at 50 mph like any bike is. Im just talking stability at 50 mph, and then you have the extra hazards AW did a great job of stating. Get a scooter which has daytime running lights, wear your yellow body armor, and get out into the traffic and keep up, where its safer.

Oh, and the cost? Well my 50 mph racing bicycle was eating up batteries pretty regular. It cost about a dollar a mile, but that is going fast as possible all the time in that case. 30 mph commuter bikes ran about 25 or 30 cents a mile, again, mainly because of battery costs. Tires added up too, but that happens on the scooter as well.

The scooters I buy cheap, well under 3000 dollars. Then they last forever, unless you actually set yours on fire. Cheap to insure, for me anyway, less than 200 bucks a year. Cost per mile on them, including new tires every year, and $3.50 gas, about 12 cents a mile. 70 mpg, so not bad compared to the big Harleys, that get about 30 mpg.

If you want a fast, comfortable, cheap vehicle, get yourself a burgman or a Yamaha majesty. Don't get a cheap china 150 cc. They are not as reliable. The smaller honda is though.

I never said don't build the 50 mph bike though!!!!! Build that for fun, using the fun budget, which just got bigger since you slashed your regular transportation costs.

For me, to get this kind of bike, i need to change my driving license, which inludes 40 days of courses, like you are new driver, going to tests, exams, paying around 400$. Then i have to pay the local taxes for having another vehicle which is around 350$ a year, then the law forces me to wear helmet and body armor and so on. + the price of the gas vs electric and the noise it will make. Too much hassle and money for the same thing.
 
LexHammer said:
For me, to get this kind of bike, i need to change my driving license, which inludes 40 days of courses, like you are new driver, going to tests, exams, paying around 400$. Then i have to pay the local taxes for having another vehicle which is around 350$ a year, then the law forces me to wear helmet and body armor and so on. + the price of the gas vs electric and the noise it will make. Too much hassle and money for the same thing.

Though to be realistic, that ought to be telling you something. There are reasons for all that, and they apply even more to a vehicle that unlike a motorcycle isn't really designed to go that fast. I don't know where you are, but in most parts of the world the trike you're talking about isn't legal either, so if you insist on doing this without the training and protective clothing, you might as well get the gas scooter anyway. That would be a far less conspicuous violation, and in my state it's quite common - there's some reason to believe legal riders are a minority.

Speaking of which, in my state, a 3 wheeled vehicle takes a special test and qualified endorsement, basically because they are especially unsafe. Motor tricycles, motorcycles with sidecars. Bicycle style tricycles are also prone to tipping over, but they're mostly popular with old guys whose infirmities are making it hard to stay upright on 2 wheels, and high speeds aren't so much of an issue. If you want to build an under-engineered motorcycle and aren't just trying to injure yourself, a 2 wheel recumbent might be worth thinking about. Mine is an old Burley Limbo with the steering transplanted to under the seat, and a garden variety 1500W hub motor. There are a few models currently made with suspension, most in the short wheelbase style.
 
lex wrote:
I dont think there will be a problem with the laid back possition, becasue most of the time at home im exactly at this position, even now.

I consider my trike, my hot-rod-lazy-boy on wheels. but its rear suspension and plus size tire. I might incorporate a back massager pad thingy :wink:
 
Well if you are not scared off yet!

by LexHammer » May 05 2020 1:16pm

72v45Ah battery, for long range travel. But recently i saw recumbent trikes and i love the idea of comfort and low air drag + alot of space for battery, so now thinking of building electric recumbent trike from KMX Typhoon F8.

2. Do i need suspension for electric trike, because this trike doesn't have and those with suspension are at least x2 the price

Batteries: as with all trikes keep the weight close to the pair of wheels and as low as possible. I have two but carry only one and swap out. I have a mount in front of my seat between my front wheels. My battery is a 72v, 25ah weights 15.4lbs. It does not interfere with anything but is at the limit for the space. For me to use both would need custom mounts on the sides and as far forward as possible. So mounting big battery is not easy it's a pain.

Comfort: Would not call it that but it is better for long range. It's more like balancing on a narrow seat while peddling and not jerk the steering around. Riding slow on a short ride it's great. I will do up to 4 hr rides and your tired.

Low air drag: Not a full recumbent, semi recumbent so it is slightly better than a upright bike with rider tucked. I get an extra 3 mph at 25 mph, will do some math some time to figure the watts. Can you imagine being tucked for 4 hrs and not laying back.
Then there is the aerodynamics from open trike to a velomobile.

Suspension: Rear suspension is mostly for your comfort but you lose a little peddle energy if it is to soft. I don't have front suspension and don't ride over 30 mph. When you hit a hard bump at 30 you wish you had front suspension. So it's needed at higher speeds but can not comment more on it.

Long range: range is battery size vs speed and using the peddles. Riding the trike with my riding habits, in my area should come close to 150 miles on a full charge. That's averaging 14 mph using pas between 100 -300 watts assist. But it can vary wildly.

If you decide to go with a big motor and high speed you will not peddle much, the cogging and limited gears.
I ride sometime with my motor off so want gears and low cogging.

I ride a city bike trail one ride is 25 miles up and 25 back. One trip was lazy used 1000w on the trip, next time limited my thumb throttle usage and only used 500w. It all depends how you ride and how fast. Should get better out on the open road but I ride faster like 25 mph and do not track my power usage. I watch my volts not a very good way but 1 volt is close to 10 miles as a quick guess.

I limit driving around traffic and don't ride at night alone. Most of my miles are spent in a group on roads or on bike trails when alone. Once in a while I take off out of town but pick the roads carefully.

Sorry for all the words, i'm bored and like trikes.
 
ZeroEm said:
Well if you are not scared off yet!

by LexHammer » May 05 2020 1:16pm

72v45Ah battery, for long range travel. But recently i saw recumbent trikes and i love the idea of comfort and low air drag + alot of space for battery, so now thinking of building electric recumbent trike from KMX Typhoon F8.

2. Do i need suspension for electric trike, because this trike doesn't have and those with suspension are at least x2 the price

Batteries: as with all trikes keep the weight close to the pair of wheels and as low as possible. I have two but carry only one and swap out. I have a mount in front of my seat between my front wheels. My battery is a 72v, 25ah weights 15.4lbs. It does not interfere with anything but is at the limit for the space. For me to use both would need custom mounts on the sides and as far forward as possible. So mounting big battery is not easy it's a pain.

Comfort: Would not call it that but it is better for long range. It's more like balancing on a narrow seat while peddling and not jerk the steering around. Riding slow on a short ride it's great. I will do up to 4 hr rides and your tired.

Low air drag: Not a full recumbent, semi recumbent so it is slightly better than a upright bike with rider tucked. I get an extra 3 mph at 25 mph, will do some math some time to figure the watts. Can you imagine being tucked for 4 hrs and not laying back.
Then there is the aerodynamics from open trike to a velomobile.

Suspension: Rear suspension is mostly for your comfort but you lose a little peddle energy if it is to soft. I don't have front suspension and don't ride over 30 mph. When you hit a hard bump at 30 you wish you had front suspension. So it's needed at higher speeds but can not comment more on it.

Long range: range is battery size vs speed and using the peddles. Riding the trike with my riding habits, in my area should come close to 150 miles on a full charge. That's averaging 14 mph using pas between 100 -300 watts assist. But it can vary wildly.

If you decide to go with a big motor and high speed you will not peddle much, the cogging and limited gears.
I ride sometime with my motor off so want gears and low cogging.

I ride a city bike trail one ride is 25 miles up and 25 back. One trip was lazy used 1000w on the trip, next time limited my thumb throttle usage and only used 500w. It all depends how you ride and how fast. Should get better out on the open road but I ride faster like 25 mph and do not track my power usage. I watch my volts not a very good way but 1 volt is close to 10 miles as a quick guess.

I limit driving around traffic and don't ride at night alone. Most of my miles are spent in a group on roads or on bike trails when alone. Once in a while I take off out of town but pick the roads carefully.

Sorry for all the words, i'm bored and like trikes.

More is welcome :)

What about the visibility, everybody is talking about. You had any problems with cars not seeing you?
 
LexHammer said:
What about the visibility, everybody is talking about. You had any problems with cars not seeing you?

He appears to be still alive, so he's the wrong guy to ask. Ha ha ... sort of.
 
Can only comment on my choices in my recent conversion on an HPVelo Scorpion FS26.
Chose to go with a hub motor and 36v battery.
Mounted the battery low toward the rear and was able to maintain just about the same weight distribution as the unconverted bike.
(it is heavier on the side where the battery mounted.
Total added about 20 lb, or a bit less than 10% of the total weight with me on the trike. Range should be about 100 miles (19AH battery) though very dependent on how much I pedal and where the electric assist level is set.
I suspect you will get quite a few suggestions that you can substitute larger/softer tires for suspension, but your results may vary.
 
I made mine bright yellow, I built my own nose cone and canopy and an orange flag, if anything I always see people staring at me probably wondering wtf is that? you gotta have mirrors and keep an eye on whats happening behind you, some drivers like to drive in the bike lane but that's where power helps, just hit the throttle and get out of there. I don't think id ride my trike in the city with an underpowered trike
 
LexHammer said:
About the visibility, i read a couple of threads on forums where recumbent trike users said they are more visible and get more respec than on their bikes. One of the reason is the WTF factor. There is also this video :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUp7fNSIdM0


The trike at the start of this thread is a LOT lower than those bikes. Those bikes put the rider, like my SB Cruiser and CrazyBike2, basically at the same height a typical car driver is .

This trike is not even as tall as a small car's tires.

And "more visible" only counts when you're in the open, away from all the cars. In the situations I outlined they literally cannot see you at all, because the other car(s) are between you and them, and have no idea you are there, so when the other car moves out of the way, if they don't have time to slow or stop, you're under their vehicle.

I really like the 'bent bikes and trikes for comfort and aero, but I went with higher-seating semi-recumbent for CrazyBike2 and then SB Cruiser *because* of visibility, rather than lowracer types, after seeing enough near-death-experiences on the roads around here with a few lowracer riders in traffic). (none of which, I might add, have been seen around here in years...and though I don't know why not, it's possible that it is becuase those near- experiences eventually caught up with them and became actual ones).


I read that the seat and big baloon tires like Shwalbe Big Apple do a good job in softening the imperfections.
At normal bicycle speeds, maybe up to 15-20mph, sure, they'll do a lot for small irregularities on an otherwise really smooth road.

But not at 40-50MPH, not potholes and road debris, or the "waves" that happen in asphalt where large vehicles stop and start (intersections, turnoffs, etc).


I'm using bigger tires than those (Shinko SR714 2.5", that turn a "20"" wheel into a 22"+) on SB Cruiser and they barely take off the little stuff at 20MPH. As I said, even as heavy as it is, the wheel that hits something significant will bounce into the air, because it has no suspension, and that will often bounce me up off my suspended-mesh seat. So I have to do whatever I can, within the limits of traffic/etc., to avoid road areas that have even relatively small problems, so I don't have to live with the results.

Some of the worst holes have broken axles on my hubmotors, and severely damaged rims...and that was at 20MPH or less. There's so much more energy involved at higher speeds...I try not to think about what it would be like at 40-50MPH.


I guess you're going to have to go find someone local to you with a trike built like the one you want to use, and ride it under the worst conditions you can find that you think you'll encounter, at the fastest speed you can manage, and see if you can deal with it, or at least live with the problems.

At least, that's what I'd do before I spend all that money on something like this, when I'm being advised by people with experience in the various areas, that it could be more than problematic.

it's your money and life, though. ;)
 
by LexHammer » May 06 2020 2:57pm

More is welcome :)

What about the visibility, everybody is talking about. You had any problems with cars not seeing you?

Visibility: People drive crazy in my town and die on the freeways every week. I feel safer on my trike, not that I am safer but don't have to mingle with the crazies. I pick roads with bike lanes, have not had a close call yet. One main problem is you can not turn and look behind you. I always do a crazy Ivan to see behind me. I started out with small bike mirrors, it was not long before bought motorcycle mirrors (aero drag) but still have a blind spots need to add them little fish eye mirrors. Trikes do draw a lot of looks so you are not dismissed, they want a good look at what is that!

Need to measure how high my head is. I'm sure it's under a meter. Our parks have these gates made out of single pipe across to stop cars, me and the trike fit right under them.

More: Trikes don't lean in corners, puts lateral stress on the wheels. Small wheels are stronger, better control, shorter turning radius. Put a pair of Grinn's fast V2 all axle motors in the front small wheels 50 mph.
Close to the ground, I have 3.5" of clearance, no curb jumping, do not roll over bumps and thru holes well, not very wide (this evening left turn thru intersection 15 mph could feel front wheels sliding).

High power trikes with good traction tires can flip. There are builds with taller tires, you can buy trikes with all 24", good off road. Tall and fast could cause the rim to fold.

Frame: People like KMX, strong for high power, main frame is steel with aluminum front beam now. don't if it was all steel before.
Most have weight limits 260 lbs, few 300 lbs. Most trikes are light weight for road riding, you over load them and drive them hard they will break. My trike was 42 lbs out of the box, weight limit 260 lbs. I'm 260 with out all the add on's. I know it is over loaded so don't drive it like a monster truck more like an Indy car.

Had enough,

Note: most of the guys responding to you have decades on me so listen to them.
 
You will want a good suspension system and long wheebase, HPV FS26 or Azub Ti Fly. Just like on a bike speeds over about 30 mph on bumpy roads are pretty unstable.

I ride an HPV FS26 with a 1500 watt MAC and its pretty stable on 50 mph downhill runs. Bike tires aren't designed for speeds above 50 mph unless it's on glass smooth surfaces. Hitting bump of 1/2" or so above 50 mph tend to begin tearing belt cords and they come apart quickly afterwards.
 
I also built mine from scratch. Took a budget&minimalist approach though.
My trike build is dialed in for 25MPH for entire ride....It will do 30 under right conditions (fresh pack, no head wind, etc.), but I rarely take it that fast.
My favorite cruse speed is around 20MPH which gives good economy with low pucker-factor.
As others have said, pack goes down low. I put mine down low behind rear seat about 6 inches off the ground.
Suspension? Why?
12KW (that's almost 16 HP!) will shred any bike chain on your first ride out, ruin cassette and chainring after a few rides.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mD_mHqUxeXw&t=102s
 
Too much money and hassle for the same thing.

Well,, its not the same thing. That's why I keep telling folks that want to have a motorcycle, to get one.

But go ahead, ride motorcycle fast in the street, with no license, no insurance, no armor, and no helmet.

I can only say that when that oncoming car ran me into the ditch last year, I was real happy to have all that armor on. I got off with a very minor leg break, that was more like a sprained ankle that just took too long to heal.
 
Back
Top