TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

mbrusa said:
There are two .bin files for 850C displays.

850C_v20.1C.2-bootloader.bin
It is programmed on the display's serial port as 860C, using Apt software and a USB-UART converter.

850C_v20.1C.2.bin
It is programmed on the internal JTAG-SWD port using ST-LINK.
It is necessary to disassemble the display, recommended only for developers.
Click to expand...

Hi mbrusa,

Can I check with you, the 860c C.2 bin file is also for C.3 motor firmware correct?

Context is my motor doesn't spin and I'm troubleshooting... It booted fine the first time, but when I pressed the "down" key for walk assist (bike still on the stand being built) nothing happens; the second and subsequent times it was powered on the display was stuck in the title screen. :?

I did open up the motor to install a relay for the front light which actually worked (tested on the first boot), and ST Visual Programmer had no issue reading the firmware from the board after the episode above. I just hope I didn't mis-wire something and burnt the board.
 
mbrusa said:
Yes, the bin 860c C.2 file is also correct for the C.3 motor firmware.
If the display remains stuck on the title screen when turned on, it means that there is no communication between the display and the motor.
Check the wiring if it is correct.
Can the display still be programmed?
Click to expand...

The wiring harness is a 1T4 purchased from Electric Bikes
I've just tried reprogramming the display and that went through no issue.

...and the head scratching goes on :?

I just opened up the motor again to check that everything is proper. Will report back.
 
Charlie Whiskey said:
mbrusa said:
Yes, the bin 860c C.2 file is also correct for the C.3 motor firmware.
If the display remains stuck on the title screen when turned on, it means that there is no communication between the display and the motor.
Check the wiring if it is correct.
Can the display still be programmed?
Click to expand...

The wiring harness is a 1T4 purchased from Electric Bikes
I've just tried reprogramming the display and that went through no issue.

...and the head scratching goes on :?

I just opened up the motor again to check that everything is proper. Will report back.
Click to expand...

At www.electrifybike.com we have sold a lot of 860C displays for the TSDZ2 and one did the same thing yours is doing. We exchanged the display and it all worked.
 
jeff.page.rides said:
At www.electrifybike.com we have sold a lot of 860C displays for the TSDZ2 and one did the same thing yours is doing. We exchanged the display and it all worked.
Click to expand...

I didn't suspect that wiring harness at all :wink:

I figured out the motor didn't spin was because the assist level was defaulted at zero when it booted. Silly me. :wink:

The likely cause that got it stuck on the title screen was because the magnet for the brake sensor hadn't been installed yet at the time, but then I seem to remember I also tried booting without the sensor plugged in and it also got stuck - is the brake sensor compulsory for OSF? Unfortunately I didn't confirm this in my haste to troubleshoot at 2am and I pulled the whole thing apart straight away... ripping the wiring for the temperature sensor in the process so it's now back on the bench in pieces. :(
 
Charlie Whiskey said:
jeff.page.rides said:
At www.electrifybike.com we have sold a lot of 860C displays for the TSDZ2 and one did the same thing yours is doing. We exchanged the display and it all worked.
Click to expand...

I didn't suspect that wiring harness at all :wink:

I figured out the motor didn't spin was because the assist level was defaulted at zero when it booted. Silly me. :wink:

The likely cause that got it stuck on the title screen was because the magnet for the brake sensor hadn't been installed yet at the time, but then I seem to remember I also tried booting without the sensor plugged in and it also got stuck - is the brake sensor compulsory for OSF? Unfortunately I didn't confirm this in my haste to troubleshoot at 2am and I pulled the whole thing apart straight away... ripping the wiring for the temperature sensor in the process so it's now back on the bench in pieces. :(
Click to expand...

Unhooking a sensor is a good way to see if it has an effect. All the sensors we have tried work with OSF.
 
is the brake sensor compulsory for OSF?
Click to expand...

The code checks to see if the brakes are activated when started and if so the code stops until the brakes are released.
 
I thought the brake sensor was optional?

However it is highly recommended. The reason being that you don't really want the motor active at points in your journey. Here is an example. You have some assist on. You come to a set of traffic lights, slow pedalling, then stop.

Now if no brake sensor, you rest your foot on the pedal and being torque assisted it thinks you are about to go and gives you some power. Not what you wanted. With the brake depressed, you rest your foot on the pedal and ... nothing, because the motor is inactive. Release the brake and start pedalling and bam, off you go. :lol:
 
I knew I had just been reading it:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&start=5175#p1478476

The brake sensor is active low. That means it has 5V on it and allows the motor to run. If you connect this wire to 0V or it becomes zero volts then it cuts off the motor.

Some sensors are reed switches, that is they are open when a magnet is near them, so motor runs. When the magnet moves away from the reed switch then the reeds make contact and now you have gnd (0V) connected to the brake wire and so it cuts off the motor. (So you connect one wire to 0V and the other to the brake wire - doesn't matter which).

I think some sensors may use a Hall effect solid state device - looks a bit like a transistor with three legs (wires). In this case you need +V (is it 5V?), gnd (0V) and the connection to the brake wire. If the magnet is near the sensor then +V, if the magnet moves away then gnd (0V) (or near to these voltages anyway). (You do need to connect these the right way round.) The throttle is also a hall sensor, but an analogue type.

That's my understanding anyway. I await correction from the masters! :wink:
 
Wow I just realised you released the C3 version for the KT-LCD3 back in June.. :bigthumb:

How did I miss that ?

Anyone been using it ?

Sorry I think I might be confusing this with c3new.. but looks like there are issues with this version anyway, so will hold on.
 
There have been reports of controller burn with v20.1C.3-NEW, I don't know if it was due to the firmware.
Maybe there are problems with 48V motors?
I have been using v20.1C.3-NEW on two bikes with XH18 display and 36V motor for more than a month and have considered it safe.
As a precaution I recommend using v20.1C.1 with stock displays.
 
I have 48 V motor and 48 V battery. I've been riding about 600 kms with v20.1C.3 and no problem. Display is 860C.
 
dameri said:
.. 600 kms with v20.1C.3 and no problem. Display is 860C.
Click to expand...
It seems that the problems relate only to OSF for stock display's.
Imho all differences with other displays were equalized with the 0.20.1C.3-New version.
So I didn't expecting this anymore. I hope there will be found an identifiable failing.
 
I'm still running C.1 on my 860 display TSDZ2. C.3 may be safe but I am still waiting... Poor guy in the other thread who had just started out on a bikepacking trip. Oof.

Elinx said:
dameri said:
.. 600 kms with v20.1C.3 and no problem. Display is 860C.
Click to expand...
It seems that the problems relate only to OSF for stock display's.
Imho all differences with other displays were equalized with the 0.20.1C.3-New version.
So I didn't expecting this anymore. I hope there will be found an identifiable failing.
Click to expand...
 
Hello guys, as I moved to 860c display with 20.1c3-NEW version (many tests, and still the best version so far :) ) , and I have lcd3 laying around,
Is there a way to bring LCD kt3 to stock firmware, so it can work with KT controllers? Anyone have the stock files for LCD3?
Thanks
 
Hi, now I have 650 km on the TSDZ2 and now I hear a slight crack when turning the pedals it's not always. The sound comes from the engine. I also have a new chain as the original has been pulled out. What to check? Do I have to disassemble the whole engine? I have added 2 bearings for left and right. Should I record video with sound? Thanks
 
Do you mean creak? I have that, too, under high human effort in a hard gear... but mine is almost certainly from the engine mounting not internal. Everything is tight but there is just a little play in there somewhere. I have had this on pedal bikes, too, and it could usually be solved by greasing or putting a little LocTite on the bottom bracket threads. I haven't tried that yet since it doesn't bother me too much on this bike.

freexxx said:
Hi, now I have 650 km on the TSDZ2 and now I hear a slight crack when turning the pedals it's not always. The sound comes from the engine. I also have a new chain as the original has been pulled out. What to check? Do I have to disassemble the whole engine? I have added 2 bearings for left and right. Should I record video with sound? Thanks
Click to expand...
 
dameri said:
I have 48 V motor and 48 V battery. I've been riding about 600 kms with v20.1C.3 and no problem. Display is 860C.
Click to expand...

We have a both a 36 volt unit running on 48 volts and a 48 volt running on 52 volts, both on LCD3 and both now done about 300 km's of hard climbing and use running the latest firmware, without problem so far.
 
Hey there.
Sorry for beginner question.
Just got my TSDZ2 and flashed the OSF 1.1.0 from casainho. I am using the SW102.

I thaught it is still in active developement but i saw the latest update was in Oct20.

So after searches i found this thread.
Looking good because its still in developement and i wanna try out.
But now my questions:

- Can i use the booloader of the 1.1.0?
So can i flash the sw102-otaupdate-20.1C.2.zip via bluetooth to the display and the TSDZ2-v20.1C.3-860C.hex to the motor or do i have to open it up again?

- Will there km/miles left or something sometime implemented? Would be the most important information on the display for me.

- Is it possible to rearange the SW102 Display so that you see the units directly and dont have to press "M"? Or are the digits to small on there?

Thanks for answers and sorry for maybe stupid questions. Im new to this and didnt find answer in the thread so far

Sebastian
 
is c3new version available for download in hex file? on github I see only c3. the display is sw102.
 
I can't get it to work anymore ..
Tsdz2 with vlcd5
flash 20 01b nothing works
flash latest version, nothing works
No error.
Back to original firmware, walk works, throttle works, torsiometer doesn't work! In the vlcd5 menu, where it shows the force on the torsiometer the value is 110, if I press it reaches 140, so the torsometer works but the engine does not start! what can it be?
 
I try to explain my problem better ..
I have a new tsdz2, I flashed the rom 20 01b and nothing works
then I flashed the 2001c and only the walk assistant works.
I have attempted to restore the original firmware with the versions on the eco bike site, but only the walk and throttle works. I also flashed option byte, but nothing, it doesn't work ... I'm going crazy, I can't explain why the new firmware versions don't work and why you can't go back to the stock firmware .. I would need help, otherwise I have a new engine from use only as an ornament .. with stvp it is possible to read and write the rom, so it is not a new ecu. The engine is a 48v with vlcd5
 
andrea_104kg said:
I try to explain my problem better ..
I have a new tsdz2, I flashed the rom 20 01b and nothing works
then I flashed the 2001c and only the walk assistant works.
I have attempted to restore the original firmware with the versions on the eco bike site, but only the walk and throttle works. I also flashed option byte, but nothing, it doesn't work ... I'm going crazy, I can't explain why the new firmware versions don't work and why you can't go back to the stock firmware .. I would need help, otherwise I have a new engine from use only as an ornament .. with stvp it is possible to read and write the rom, so it is not a new ecu. The engine is a 48v with vlcd5
Click to expand...

Does it have the new controller? where did you buy it?
 
The engine is new, it stopped assisting after less than an hour of operation. After a week of messages with pswpower they sent me both the controller and the new torsiometer, and I have to thank them,even if it was hard to get them. But nothing has changed, nothing works ... the controller it's old type, with stvp it's possible read and write them.
 
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