New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

skestans said:
My motor did really bite into the frame at the chain stays :( I’m worried this will cause a rust issue down the line since this frame is cromoly. What do you guys think?


https://imgur.com/a/Hqb3alq
Click to expand...
You should treat the bare metal with a rust converter solution. This will put an inert oxide coating there to prevent rust. Then touch up paint it. An automotive paint store should have something that will match fairly well.
 
Quick note for the OpenSource firmware users: new firmware release that corrected the delay that motor took to stop after stop pedaling (overrun), added automatic battery pack resistance measurement and other features.

Download here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/releases/tag/860C_850C_SW102_v0.8.0
 
Time for testing :)
By the way I did the sensor calibration, for me it looks like the graph (note! The left pedal is on the left side of the sheet)
 
hetm4n said:
Time for testing :)
By the way I did the sensor calibration, for me it looks like the graph (note! The left pedal is on the left side of the sheet)
Click to expand...
You should adjust that values, the curves must be kind of soft, for instance, I would increase the values of 4 and 5, on the left graph. Or the 4 and 5 values are wrong (to low) or the 3 value is wrong (to high) - maybe you should measure again that values.

It is clear that your torque sensor has high sensitivity from 0 to 15 kgs and after that has half of the sensitivity, which is awkward while riding, when you pull more the pedals but feel lower response from the motor...
 
Rent- borrow an 850C bootloader box?

I am setting up a TSDZ2 with a new P850C display. Does anyone have a bootloader box I can rent or borrow to upload the latest version of the firmware on it? I want to buy one but Eco-Cycles is out of stock and with the Corona virus shuttering many businesses I don't have any idea when they will be available.

I am put my original setup on my tandem and now riding a stock setup on my town bike. I really miss the firmware upgrade as the stock firmware is crappy.

I live in Seattle WA
 
RicMcK said:
Rent- borrow an 850C bootloader box?

I am setting up a TSDZ2 with a new P850C display. Does anyone have a bootloader box I can rent or borrow to upload the latest version of the firmware on it? I want to buy one but Eco-Cycles is out of stock and with the Corona virus shuttering many businesses I don't have any idea when they will be available.

I am put my original setup on my tandem and now riding a stock setup on my town bike. I really miss the firmware upgrade as the stock firmware is crappy.

I live in Seattle WA
Click to expand...
Or you can ask any friend that work with an Arduino for the Arduino USB-UART cable and use it as a bootloader box. Also this cables are very cheap and popular, maybe you can find on local stores.
 
Had a strange problem with a 52v KT-LCD3 and OSF. Suddenly there is no assist. Everything else is operating correctly. Walk assist is receiving all assist levels correctly, the throttle also is fine and cruise operates correctly.

The solution was to disconnect the throttle and all assist levels functioned correctly. Quite soon the throttle will be removed and replaced with an LM35DT temperature chip (many thanks eyebicycle for your idea of screwing in the tab) which might be a problem.

Anybody else seen anything like this?
 
I updated the wiki on how to install TSDZ2 on cargo bike -- now I am looking for notes and pictures of installation on a fat bike, I think this is the last category left - anyone available to share his own notes and pictures?

image.png
 
casainho said:
You should adjust that values, the curves must be kind of soft, for instance, I would increase the values of 4 and 5, on the left graph. Or the 4 and 5 values are wrong (to low) or the 3 value is wrong (to high) - maybe you should measure again that values.

It is clear that your torque sensor has high sensitivity from 0 to 15 kgs and after that has half of the sensitivity, which is awkward while riding, when you pull more the pedals but feel lower response from the motor...
Click to expand...

I repeated the calibration, I have the same results. in the "technical" options there is also a real weight reading. before calibration, when I stepped on the pedal, my weight showed correctly 76kg. After calibration, it shows my overweight, i.e. 104kg.
 
hetm4n said:
I repeated the calibration, I have the same results. in the "technical" options there is also a real weight reading. before calibration, when I stepped on the pedal, my weight showed correctly 76kg. After calibration, it shows my overweight, i.e. 104kg.
Click to expand...
Well, then I would say your calibration values must be corrected.
 
RicMcK said:
Rent- borrow an 850C bootloader box?

I am setting up a TSDZ2 with a new P850C display. Does anyone have a bootloader box I can rent or borrow to upload the latest version of the firmware on it? I want to buy one but Eco-Cycles is out of stock and with the Corona virus shuttering many businesses I don't have any idea when they will be available.

I am put my original setup on my tandem and now riding a stock setup on my town bike. I really miss the firmware upgrade as the stock firmware is crappy.

I live in Seattle WA
Click to expand...
Check the wiki, you can make your own boot loader box with very cheap parts from eBay or aliexpress.
 
skestans said:
My motor did really bite into the frame at the chain stays :( I’m worried this will cause a rust issue down the line since this frame is cromoly. What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

You should put 1 or 2 layers of inner tube between the frame and the metal part pressing against it.

Cristian said:
I opened the motor and it looks like the clutch bearing is causing the play. I have 2300km with the OSF firmware and KT-LCD3. I always ride hard in traffic, so it did take some abuse.

I will replace the bearing, do the motor temperature dissipation mods and switch to the 850C display. Too bad i already bought it a while ago, i would have bought the 860C now. Next time i guess.

Anyways, the OSF firmware is amazing. Thank you again to everybody who is involved in this project.
Click to expand...

Ok, i it seems that the clutch bearing is fine. I removed every part of the motor, greased everything, but when i closed it up and put back the spider with the chain rings (42T and 52T), the chain rings have more play than i would be comfortable to ride with. So i don't know what is wrong. This issue came up after I installed and ridden with the 52T chain ring for a short ride.

Here's a video of the problem

It looks like the axle is not moving. I thought it was at first, and i did the washer mod suggested by EcoCycles a few pages back. It's very snug now, but it seems that wasn't the problem.
 
Cristian said:
skestans said:
My motor did really bite into the frame at the chain stays :( I’m worried this will cause a rust issue down the line since this frame is cromoly. What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

You should put 1 or 2 layers of inner tube between the frame and the metal part pressing against it.

Cristian said:
I opened the motor and it looks like the clutch bearing is causing the play. I have 2300km with the OSF firmware and KT-LCD3. I always ride hard in traffic, so it did take some abuse.

I will replace the bearing, do the motor temperature dissipation mods and switch to the 850C display. Too bad i already bought it a while ago, i would have bought the 860C now. Next time i guess.

Anyways, the OSF firmware is amazing. Thank you again to everybody who is involved in this project.
Click to expand...

Ok, i it seems that the clutch bearing is fine. I removed every part of the motor, greased everything, but when i closed it up and put back the spider with the chain rings (42T and 52T), the chain rings have more play than i would be comfortable to ride with. So i don't know what is wrong. This issue came up after I installed and ridden with the 52T chain ring for a short ride.

Here's a video of the problem

It looks like the axle is not moving. I thought it was at first, and i did the washer mod suggested by EcoCycles a few pages back. It's very snug now, but it seems that wasn't the problem.
Click to expand...

I put some bearing mount in the bearing axel interface, and that solved my issue. I would look carefully at the clutch bearing, as sometimes they are sloppy.
 
Cristian said:
skestans said:
My motor did really bite into the frame at the chain stays :( I’m worried this will cause a rust issue down the line since this frame is cromoly. What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

You should put 1 or 2 layers of inner tube between the frame and the metal part pressing against it.

Cristian said:
I opened the motor and it looks like the clutch bearing is causing the play. I have 2300km with the OSF firmware and KT-LCD3. I always ride hard in traffic, so it did take some abuse.

I will replace the bearing, do the motor temperature dissipation mods and switch to the 850C display. Too bad i already bought it a while ago, i would have bought the 860C now. Next time i guess.

Anyways, the OSF firmware is amazing. Thank you again to everybody who is involved in this project.
Click to expand...

Ok, i it seems that the clutch bearing is fine. I removed every part of the motor, greased everything, but when i closed it up and put back the spider with the chain rings (42T and 52T), the chain rings have more play than i would be comfortable to ride with. So i don't know what is wrong. This issue came up after I installed and ridden with the 52T chain ring for a short ride.

Here's a video of the problem

It looks like the axle is not moving. I thought it was at first, and i did the washer mod suggested by EcoCycles a few pages back. It's very snug now, but it seems that wasn't the problem.
Click to expand...
I had initially, and it bit right through, causing the chaffing.
 
Yes, now i see that the clutch bearing is the problem. I took down the spider with the chain rings and i attached the screws directly to it. It has a lot of play. I will have to find a replacement somehow.
 
Cristian said:
Yes, now i see that the clutch bearing is the problem. I took down the spider with the chain rings and i attached the screws directly to it. It has a lot of play. I will have to find a replacement somehow.
Click to expand...

This is a cheap replacement bearing, which has worked fine for me although I've only driven 100-200km after changing so cannot say anything about durability. Surely you can find same bearings from reliable Westerns brands but they might cost a few times more.
 
Hi..

I have a quick question... and I'm sorry if I post this in the wrong thread, I know this have been discussed in other threads...
I have a beach cruiser with a 51mm bottom bracket.
Can i fit the TSDZ2 in there without an extra bracket adapter?

My gut feeling says no... does anyone have som experience with this?
And does anyone from Sweden know if I can buy an adapter in Sweden or maybe in Europe?

Thanx to all developers and for a great forum!!

here are some images of my installation...
SuakL4a.jpg

shJr8h0.jpg
 
Cristian said:
skestans said:
My motor did really bite into the frame at the chain stays :( I’m worried this will cause a rust issue down the line since this frame is cromoly. What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

You should put 1 or 2 layers of inner tube between the frame and the metal part pressing against it.

Cristian said:
I opened the motor and it looks like the clutch bearing is causing the play. I have 2300km with the OSF firmware and KT-LCD3. I always ride hard in traffic, so it did take some abuse.

I will replace the bearing, do the motor temperature dissipation mods and switch to the 850C display. Too bad i already bought it a while ago, i would have bought the 860C now. Next time i guess.

Anyways, the OSF firmware is amazing. Thank you again to everybody who is involved in this project.
Click to expand...

Ok, i it seems that the clutch bearing is fine. I removed every part of the motor, greased everything, but when i closed it up and put back the spider with the chain rings (42T and 52T), the chain rings have more play than i would be comfortable to ride with. So i don't know what is wrong. This issue came up after I installed and ridden with the 52T chain ring for a short ride.

Here's a video of the problem

It looks like the axle is not moving. I thought it was at first, and i did the washer mod suggested by EcoCycles a few pages back. It's very snug now, but it seems that wasn't the problem.
Click to expand...

Isn't it better to use some old bicycle tyre instead of inner tube?
 
nisseDILLIGAF said:
Hi..

I have a quick question... and I'm sorry if I post this in the wrong thread, I know this have been discussed in other threads...
I have a beach cruiser with a 51mm bottom bracket.
Can i fit the TSDZ2 in there without an extra bracket adapter?

My gut feeling says no... does anyone have som experience with this?
And does anyone from Sweden know if I can buy an adapter in Sweden or maybe in Europe?

Thanx to all developers and for a great forum!!

here are some images of my installation...
SuakL4a.jpg

shJr8h0.jpg
Click to expand...

These are what you are looking for.
Do not use it without it will crack the housing.

https://www.ebay.com/p/1409199019?

https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/msc-zion-tandem-excentrical-bottom-bracket/136460580/p?

https://www.treefortbikes.com/TruVativ-American-Euro-BMX-Bottom-Bracket-Adapter

https://northwestbicycle.com/products/black-ops-bb-conversion-kit-american-to-euro-68mm-american-j20918?
 
jeff.page.rides said:
...
These are what you are looking for.
Do not use it without it will crack the housing.

https://www.ebay.com/p/1409199019?

https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/msc-zion-tandem-excentrical-bottom-bracket/136460580/p?

https://www.treefortbikes.com/TruVativ-American-Euro-BMX-Bottom-Bracket-Adapter

https://northwestbicycle.com/products/black-ops-bb-conversion-kit-american-to-euro-68mm-american-j20918?
Click to expand...

Thanx!!
I was hoping for a fast easy solution...
But I ended up ordering this one from Luna cycle
Now I have to play the waiting game :shock:

https://lunacycle.com/american-style-eccentric-bb-to-bsa-adapter/
 
nisseDILLIGAF said:
Thanx!!
I was hoping for a fast easy solution...
But I ended up ordering this one from Luna cycle
Now I have to play the waiting game :shock:

https://lunacycle.com/american-style-eccentric-bb-to-bsa-adapter/
Click to expand...

It's good that you chose the eccentric adapter, with a symmetrical one there probably would not be enough clearance to fit the motor. Make sure the supporting bracket on the left side aligns straight against the BB, and use washers on the motor shaft if needed.
 
ilu said:
nisseDILLIGAF said:
Thanx!!
I was hoping for a fast easy solution...
But I ended up ordering this one from Luna cycle
Now I have to play the waiting game :shock:

https://lunacycle.com/american-style-eccentric-bb-to-bsa-adapter/
Click to expand...

It's good that you chose the eccentric adapter, with a symmetrical one there probably would not be enough clearance to fit the motor. Make sure the supporting bracket on the left side aligns straight against the BB, and use washers on the motor shaft if needed.
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting about the eccentric one! I didn't think about the motor not fitting on the ones that are centered.
 
Today I went out on a 10 mile ride, air temps high 60’s. Had the power set at level 7-9 and my motor temp got up to 167 f. The house was very warm to hot to the touch. What is safe and how can I help keep the motor cool. I have a 36v overclocked motor with a 52v battery. Would the 48/52v motor run cooler? Do not really need the overclocked part. Also if I swap the motor to 48v version what can I do to help cool it?
 
Brlowe said:
Today I went out on a 10 mile ride, air temps high 60’s. Had the power set at level 7-9 and my motor temp got up to 167 f. The house was very warm to hot to the touch. What is safe and how can I help keep the motor cool. I have a 36v overclocked motor with a 52v battery. Would the 48/52v motor run cooler? Do not really need the overclocked part. Also if I swap the motor to 48v version what can I do to help cool it?
Click to expand...
Look for my post with a pdf outlining a process.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&p=1503923#p1503923

I will be modifying a new motor next month and will update the process.
 

Attachments

  • TDSZ2 thermal.pdf
    2.6 MB · Views: 99
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
    • Like
Really good article comparing Bafang vs. Tongsheng vs. CYC
Replies
12
Views
10,645
999zip999
999zip999
E-HP
    • Like
DIY Newb FAQ?
Replies
20
Views
2,419
neptronix
neptronix
B
Intro guide to TSDZ2 & BBS02 (updated 2021)
2
Replies
35
Views
17,284
docw009
docw009
Back
Top