What will you replace it with?Barncat said:I'll definitely replace the heavy front fork next season. Steel stanchions, stiction and unsophisticated design. Will shed 3 lbs too. Other than that the chassis is all good. It's great to have suspension even for the street.
Yes, esk8 controllers are advertised in a confusing manner.Barncat said:Sadly I miscalculated on the Flipsky vesc purchase. It can't handle anything over 57ish volts, so they weren't joking. Didn't burn it up or anything but it's not cool with a 15s pack even undercharged. Another Chinese supplier Makerx-tech makes a model HI100, 75v 100A-200A max that should be perfect ( and utilize most of my battery capacity) but two weeks shipping so I'm out of time for now... so that's unfortunate and will have to relearn the vesc-tool months from now. Anybody have experience with that brand?
Yep. I have a similar build and went with an entry RockShox ZEB R. Curious what you will end up with.Barncat said:Re the fork, probably just one of those inexpensive new air forks. Have seen mixed reviews but I won't be thrashing it offroad.
Battery and distribution impedance? Discussed in the various controller build threads, but I'm not an EE.Barncat said:Yeah, it's live and learn for me on the vesc front... I went back into the vesc tool yesterday and raised the upper voltage limit to 58.5v to cancel the flashing red led that creates a shutdown condition vs battery voltage. Even with the battery charged to 57v it still pretty easily hit an upper limit cutout with flashing red then a quick recovery. Test riding was brief and the conclusion is final. Will sell it as it's underpowered for my purposes.
Sort of begs the question: I thought it was physically impossible for a battery to generate more voltage than indicated across the terminals with a meter?
Aside from the confusing voltage specifications, what do you think of VESC as a platform? Features, programming, etc.Barncat said:Bottom line- oversize your vesc. By a lot. I've had to leave a lot of battery power on the table thus far, but will upgrade the controller in a few months.
Just be advised that while they're both 100V max, the HI200 is recommended for 20s and 200A continuous/300A max, whereas the Trampa 100/250 is recommended for 22s and 200-250A continuous/400A burst. So you might get more out of the Trampa, although the incremental value is poor.Barncat said:From what I've gathered you can run into a wattage choke point even with a vesc that's nominally in amp range for your build. So I'll probably go with a makerx HI200 unless I hear bad reviews in next few months. They did respond next day to an email inquiry.
Good info, thanks.Barncat said:I like the platform because it's tiny and practically weightless, programmable- especially for throttle, and seems to work great sensorless- which is one less hard-to-repair system to fail. I'm no EE or computer guy so it's somewhat difficult but I'm managing...
mxlemming said:The VESC and maker x things use the same FETs etc, the ratings are marketing/test condition.
fatty said:mxlemming said:The VESC and maker x things use the same FETs etc, the ratings are marketing/test condition.
Do you have a source for this? I haven't seen a comparison, and there's generally a cost/quality tradeoff when comparing first-party components from the Western world (Trampa) versus mainland Chinese (Maker-X) clones.
mxlemming said:The maker x states the type of FETs used. They're direct FET 7769. The schematic for the vesc 75300 is public and uses 7759. The 100250 had identical case and wire in outs, though it's known from the firmware to have low side shunts... I was paid to make a 100V VESC so spent ages trying to find out. Best i came up with was a Russian forum with a pic surrounded by words saying 100250 that had direct FET.
I'm making some assumption here. But vedder uses direct FET for everything else so...
In terms of current carrying, i don't think anything other than the FETs and shunts really make a difference.
I was shocked to read this so I did some looking around.I'm looking over the new HI200 vesc and just assumed it would have an on/off/kill switch like the Flipsky unit I started out with. No switch was included...
I'm going to guess this would be an undesirable solution to hack your board, but if you can find that chip you might be able to get it to work. I'm sure this is small comfort but the open source VESC board over here does have a pin set up to switch the board on through the DRV8301.FYI there is an enable switch on the buck regulator of the drv8301 that you could break out to a 2 pin connector to achieve this functionality
owhite said:I was shocked to read this so I did some looking around.I'm looking over the new HI200 vesc and just assumed it would have an on/off/kill switch like the Flipsky unit I started out with. No switch was included...
There was a discussion over on a VESC thread where there were some posts about having an enable switch. The technical discussion was a bit over my head and from what I did understand from the posts I thought their reasoning was totally asinine.
In one constructive comment, someone pointed out that:I'm going to guess this would be an undesirable solution to hack your board, but if you can find that chip you might be able to get it to work. I'm sure this is small comfort but the open source VESC board over here does have a pin set up to switch the board on through the DRV8301.FYI there is an enable switch on the buck regulator of the drv8301 that you could break out to a 2 pin connector to achieve this functionality
Sorry about the bad news.