Recent content by coloradoebiker

How can I tell if the battery has a wattmeter or coulometer, as was mentioned by the previous poster? All I can see is it has a BMS. Is it worth me buying either of these tools at this point to measure any metrics? I no longer have the bike I used this battery on. I'm negotiable on my price...

Hello, would love to check? Forgive me but what all do I need to test it? A voltmeter?

I have an ElectricRider Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) battery w/ BMS for sale. It is the LiF4815T model (48V 15AH). I bought originally bought it from another member here on the forum several years ago. I didn't use it much--maybe has 40-50 charge / discharge cycles on it and I really didn't...

I don't see anything out of the ordinary. Here is what it looks like.... Actually maybe those wire casing are melted, so you sir might be right.

Hey guys, I have an old Jamis Dakar mountain bike with a first generation Crystalyte CT4840 hub motor in the back wheel that I think I smoked the motor on. I was going up a steep hill full speed for about 6 minutes before I killed it. I'm not sure if it is easy to fix (or if it's even worth) but...

So I decided to scrap the old Crystalyte CT4840 and ordered a Lyen from Edward here on the forum. Now I'm trying to convert my Crystalyte wiring over to the connector types you have included. I noticed that my crystalyte wiring has the following differences: 1. My throttle cable has four wires...

So I replaced the 6 MOSFETS within this First Gen Phoenix/Crystalyte 4840 controller and still have the same problem with controller being broken. At this point I think its not worth messing with. I would like to replace it. Any recommendations? Maybe waterproof is the route to go and more...

Hey, awesome thanks guys. Yeah, seeing that I'm a newbie, I was just read up on this online and saw that the 4110s and the 3077s are both superior. What would be my benefit (if any) in upgrading to one of these on my stock CT4840 setup? Would it let me take better advantage of my motor/battery...

Very hard to read, but from what I can tell, they read as follows: 1RFB4310 1(downward pointing triangle?)R 706P 3C HT B4 (inside of a circle)

Hello All, I recently blew my controller and am wanting to replace the MOSFETs. I need to know the specifications on the MOSFETs so I buy the correct ones. Does anyone know what the specs for the older, first generation Crystalyte CT4840 controller are? Also, can the replacement MOSFETs be...

Ok all, so I did finally tested the controller using the tester. It took awhile since I wanted to adapt the mini XLR connectors so I had to order those. Anyways, I made a video of what the tester shows. I'm guessing I will have to tear the controller apart and locate whatever part(s) I blew. Let...

Hello 999zip999, I decided that I really hate having to back out the wires and use extra alligator clips as this would become a mess real fast. I will be picking up a male 5-pin XLR connector during my lunchhour today so that the hall wires of the tester can be adapted to the xlr connecter on...

Total noob here....Don't quite know how this works but it seems that the connectors don't match up as I have a first gen Crystalyte??

So I finally received my ebike tester from China. Its looks pretty shoddy but anyways, I don't get how to hookup this thing to test to see if I blew the MOSFETs within the controller. See below pictures to see what I have to work with. Can anyone point me in the right direction? thanks E-bike...

I went back and tested by turning the wheel slowly. All three wires switched back and forth between 0 and roughly 4.84 volts--or thereabouts. I guess this rules out the halls sensors. Moving on to the test the MOSFETs in the controller... In the meantime, I am waiting on the brushless...