Morning everyone
Just thinking about spare parts should anything go wrong plus about stories you read. I did read a story of a couple of people who have had broken axles. With the generic rear hub motor are all the axles the same or do you have to get in contact with the supplier? If so wheres...
Thanks for the reply. I’ve tried the continuity test and it seems it’s broken. Can I just buy any 3 pin one to replace the one I have? Connection is a 3 pin black red and a colour
Hi guys. Now that I’ve got my wheel working again with new halls my pedal assist has stopped working (it has been working previously). Can they blow? I think I might have plugged mine back in whilst the battery and controller were turned on. If that is the issue are the ones on the net all...
Hey. The controller does have a gasket on it but still not sure how much it will be protected. I have some sikaflex sealant coming so might put some of that on it. The connections that came with it are total rubbish. I’ve put an xt90 on for the power cable but the rest will need changing out in...
All mine are used parts From eBay. Apart from the battery and motor. Think this cost me £700ish and going to use it to save me £200 a month on diesel getting to work. Should be fun
Hi guys. Finally got my bike done. Still need to sort out the wires but that’s not to tricky.
It’s a trek fuel x9 2010. 1000w motor. Had to modify the rear axle which I’m going to make a better one at a later date
Thanks for all the info on getting my bike to work again. It was the halls. I also did a rewire. All running sweet. Just need some inspiration on where to put or run my cables and also if anyone knows anything about instructions on the lcd screen I have. I’ll get a picture of the bike later...
Many thanks guys. I re wired the broken hall cables where the cables got damaged. I also tested for continuity. I did run a test with the phase wires too which was part of the guild that someone posted.
Definitely going to get a tester. Didn’t realise they were so cheap
I’ve been reading a lot about whether to use them or not. When took it out for a test ride using throttle was ok but with the pas it still carries on until it figures out you’ve stopped peddling. Just wanna be a safe as possible really
I put it all back together again last night checked and rechecked before I put it all in. Once it was all plugged in I did the rest again with turning the wheel. Yellow wire was on off but the blue and green just stayed on
This is the switch which came with my kit. Thing is I have hydraulic levers which I could modify the switch but it might look a bit bulky. Or I have seen the magnet sensor style which look better. If I wanted to can these be retrofitted?