I got it all sorted out (the wires inside the cable that enters the adaptto are not standard hall colors - blue wasn't connected to anything and I needed to use Orange). It auto detected and seems to work. Just not as impressive as I thought it would be.
Anyone running a 4t on an Adaptto...
I may be the worlds biggest idiot......well at least in the running. I post this is a lesson to those who might be in the same situation as I found myself in. My initial thoughts were to just delete my two previous posts, but who learns from my mistakes if I do that.
I haven't confirmed this...
Searching some more and I came across this previous post:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=955382&hilit=metallover#p955382
I'm hoping that my issue is similar and it is just a wiring issue. I also believe that the three resistors that are mentioned in this thread...
So I picked up a used Mini-e recently. The hall sensor plug was chopped off and the wires were bundled inside some heatshrink. Unfortunately most of those wires were still stripped bare and shorting together. I didn't power it on this way but was told that this was cut off and ran on a...
I've got 10 coming from Digikey. I pulled my motor apart and tested the halls individually. It seems like all three are flaky - I apply 5v and when I pass a strong magnet over, I only get a small signal between gnd and the signal wire of each, but I get full switching between +5 and signal...
Well it looks like I've probably always had a 'bad' hall in my leafbike motor. The performance at 3000 watts was always 'meh'. As it was m first ebike experience, I wasn't sure what to expect until I build my wife a 1500 watt ebike that has much greater acceleration. Now it makes sense...
Thanks for the reply. I've tried many combos of those settings and phase wire arrangements and consistently get a hall 'e1' error.
I'll keep fiddling with it and hope something works or just sell it and go back to what was working before.
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I just picked up an Adaptto mini e and am having little luck getting it to work with my 4t Leaf motor. I can run it in sensorless mode, but autodetect always fails and gives a hall error code. In the health monitor, when rotating the wheel forward, I see halls 1,2,3 in order. Sometimes it...
I'm in the same boat. Need a new plastic top tube cover. I would be worried that there are possibly several manufacturers of that frame so maybe going back through Em3ev might be best?
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If it is a steel frame and you stick to 1000 watts and don't use a lot of regenerative braking, then one should work. If aluminum and/or regen, then I'd use two.
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Maybe this video will help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztIDMq6hH_g
I admit I didn't listen to it (at work), but perhaps something to go on.
Good luck and let us know how it works out for you!
I know how you feel. Finding a compact controller without spending big $$ is difficult. You might want to try opening it up and seeing what things look like. You could always replace the FETs and beef up traces if you want but unless you reduce the power, you'll probably end up in the same...
Does it sound like a bad bearing? If not, disconnect the phase wires from the controller and check again for resistance. If the rolling resistance disappears, you have cooked FETs in your controller and they are shorted.