'lightest.bike' 1.7kg 1000w mid drive
- Thread starter Grantmac
- Start date
Yeah, as i understand it you can update the firmware with the lightest bike phone app.
I think that's the most expensive throttle i'll ever buy!
I get the impression that the bikee boys are interested in improving their product using our feedback and i feel better about making that monetary vote of confidence now that i know firmware related issues can be solved remotely now.
I think that's the most expensive throttle i'll ever buy!
I get the impression that the bikee boys are interested in improving their product using our feedback and i feel better about making that monetary vote of confidence now that i know firmware related issues can be solved remotely now.
nervagon
1 kW
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2020
- Messages
- 357
Being able to push out firmware fixes to your beta tester/backers seems like an essential feature.
Did you also need to buy a new wiring harness to plug the throttle into?
I think the motor should shut off every 15 minutes until you watch an advertisement on the phone app. Or you could pay for a premium membership that removes 50% of the ads, and lets you ride for a full 30 minutes at a time. Superhero League Premium Elite Membership. That could be implemented via a firmware patch/app update, so it's not too late for some disruptive innovation.
It does include some physical hardware.
Details: https://www.lightest.bike/SHOP/Superhero-Pack-p222983381
Being able to tune so much in the motor is great, it may remove my want for an external controller, IDK.
Details: https://www.lightest.bike/SHOP/Superhero-Pack-p222983381
Being able to tune so much in the motor is great, it may remove my want for an external controller, IDK.
nervagon
1 kW
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2020
- Messages
- 357
You really need to check your harness, make sure that you have accessory connectors on, and if you don't you need to make sure Bikee is sending you a new harness.
Verbatim from email:
"if you want to use the throttle, please let me know, we have to send you the throttle + the cable + Superhero upgrade for that."
I have a cable that has 4 ends, 3 look like bafang connectors and 1 looks custom for the display.
"if you want to use the throttle, please let me know, we have to send you the throttle + the cable + Superhero upgrade for that."
I have a cable that has 4 ends, 3 look like bafang connectors and 1 looks custom for the display.
nervagon
1 kW
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2020
- Messages
- 357
Oh, good. Glad they are on top of that.
If you have a cable with 4 ends, they are:
display
throttle
left brake
right brake
That is the full enchilada already.
What data do you need ? I have plenty of shimano docs laying around...
rivers
100 mW
My Bikee journey is over. The 250 watt kit is now removed and the bike restored back to its original form.
The motor is too noisy for group riding.
I have another bike with a TSDZ2B kit that is quiet and works well in a group setting.
The motor is too noisy for group riding.
I have another bike with a TSDZ2B kit that is quiet and works well in a group setting.
Max torque handling in n-m is what i need
Bummer to hear you are out also and was hoping you'd follow my suggestions about noise mitigations but i get it!
This one's easy. You can find them in the dealer's manuals. Here a link to a dealer that listed some of the most common hubs. Though the values are way too conservative in my opinion, so it won't help you much. I'd put my two favorite shimanos the nexus 3 and the alfine 8 at 120 n.m-2 and 80 n.m-2 respectively.Max torque handling in n-m is what i need
Bummer to hear you are out also and was hoping you'd follow my suggestions about noise mitigations but i get it!
Thanks for this,
Per that link, that's a lower rating for the 5 speed ( 60nm ) than i expected but they might have not tested the ebike version.
Well interestingly this superhero pack could help me limit maximum torque and allow me to not destroy an IGH but the question is if i'd be happy with this torque reduction at all.. prob not!
nervagon
1 kW
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2020
- Messages
- 357
Double chain ring set to boost rpm, does already lower the torque. I can send you the spreadsheet I was using.
If the mid drive is intented for the maxarya, an IGH would habe been redundant, since that bike requires a rear chain tensioner anyway. The true benefits of IGHs only makes sense if you have horizontal or sliding dropouts in my opinion, since a chain tensioner is basically a derailleur...
nervagon
1 kW
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2020
- Messages
- 357
And the Bikee Lightest motor won’t work on single speed frames.
If you have a single speed, it would be a silly idea to put a mid drive on it because you'd get all the downsides of a mid drive and close to zero of the benefits versus say, a $200 geared hub.
I don't agree, the benefit of an IGH in this case is achieving gearing that you couldn't otherwise. The added friction from a plastic gear in a chain tensioner will represent the smallest portion of friction in your system.
You can get a chain tensioner for ~$30, NBD
nervagon
1 kW
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2020
- Messages
- 357
I said "single speed frame." We are going in circles again. IGH are best suited for single speed frames. My previous hard tail was a Trek 69er single speed frame with a Rohloff and a BBSHD, and there were zero downsides. I don't know why this isn't computing for you.
New member here. I need some help. I have the motor assembled and mounted, but my chain ring has a wobble. On page 27, where Bikee has referred me, the square taper 68mm (122mm shaft) says no spacers needed. But the drive side bearing didn’t sit fully into the cup, so I added two spacers before the bearing which fixed that. At the bottom of the page, it says the 68 mm needs 13 spacers on the chain side, but they show none in the picture. They do show the 73 mm that requires 11 spacers on the outside of the bearing. That many spacers would leave no room to mount the crank, but I was able to put in five. In spite of adding all the spacers, I still have a wobble. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Welcome!
What's preventing you from tightening down the crank without the need for spacers?
Is it because your chainring hits the bike's chainstays?
The ideal spacer configuration would be zero of them because the more you add, the more you weaken the bottom bracket to pedal interface and the result will be wobble..
I'm guessing you need a slightly wider bottom bracket.. please post a pic of the problem
What's preventing you from tightening down the crank without the need for spacers?
Is it because your chainring hits the bike's chainstays?
The ideal spacer configuration would be zero of them because the more you add, the more you weaken the bottom bracket to pedal interface and the result will be wobble..
I'm guessing you need a slightly wider bottom bracket.. please post a pic of the problem
You can upload to a site like youtube and click this button to paste the URL for that video in:
When i assembled my crank, i didn't add any spacers. Spacers are basically there to help make driveline adjustments. If removing them does not help, i would guess you have a defective part.
When i assembled my crank, i didn't add any spacers. Spacers are basically there to help make driveline adjustments. If removing them does not help, i would guess you have a defective part.
Similar threads
