19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)

stinkler said:
I have a hs3540 so it says I need 126.4 mm spokes in the calc.
But is that 126mm plus the nipple length? in theory, yes, but.... read on
Hmm looks like I'm running the same setup as your giant dh gcindc (great vids by the way :p ).
What length did you use? Did you use the jrh moped spokes?
So if you have an 03 or 04 dh comp, then you've got an offset rear triangle, and need longer spokes.

And yes, I'm going to use JRH MOPED spokes on my h40 wheel.

But adding to the complexity, I should also add that the only way I was able to use the hs3540 in the rear triangle was by flipping the rotor - removing both sidecovers, the stator, and replacing with the sidecovers on opposite sides...

i've got some pics somewhere and follow up but i have to dash now. more info here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36375&start=2100#p833083

thanks about the vids! :D
 
Ah I'm just running the same motor/voltage as you.
But I guess not anymore. Your motor needs an astrix next to it now haha. Gcindc hs3540*

*warning motor may be upsidedown backwards and slightly to the left.

My frame is dead simple its a surly troll with big clearance for fat tires.

I can't find any tires in a 19x2.50 in stock anywhere.
I will stick with the wider rim and more available tires.

Was there a big increase in rolling resistance when switching to your gnarly shinko244?
 
Rix said:
[/quot
ridethelightning yep. after a catastrophic rear tyre failure while carrying a brushcutter in the middle of nowhere (complete nightmare) i wouldnt consider anything else anymore said:
e]
You know, I had the same problems when I was testing the 2.75 and 3.00 x 17 M62s. After I tried inflating to 85 PSI with the bead coated with dish soap combined with water, it still failed to allow the bead to rise up on the rim. I discovered that my rim stripwas too wide. I got rid of it and used duct tape with the roll torn in half and wrapped the face of the nipples in the three times. That solved the problem. Check and make sure your rim strip isn't too wide, and make sure the bead is wet with dish soap mixed with water. Dont be affraid to double the recommended PSI to get the bead to seat on the rim.

Rick
i ran some o-ring grease round the bead with a couple of cotton buds, while the tyre was still on the rim but deflated.
then pumped it up real hard
the tyre slid evenly into place like a treat.

thanks heaps for the hints!
 
ridethelightning said:
i ran some o-ring grease round the bead with a couple of cotton buds, while the tyre was still on the rim but deflated.
then pumped it up real hard
the tyre slid evenly into place like a treat.

thanks heaps for the hints!
Grease doesn't sound like an ideal lube for this purpose. Soapy water dries and turns tacky after its done helping the bead seat. The tackiness helps keep the tire from slipping on the rim. O-ring grease will forever remain slick and will cause the possibility of the tire slipping on the rim and tearing of the tube stem.

But maybe these ebike tires will never see enough torque to make the tire slip on the rim.
 
RidetheLightening, gogo brings up a valid point, unless is specific tire grease that is used by MC shops, grease isn't a very good option, if your tire slips on the bead, you will most likely experience your valve stem from your tube being torn away from the tube, resulting instant flat. I would suggest that you remove your tire and remount with soapy water. You wouldn't need to remove the tire, just move the tire bead off the rim bead, and using a sponge, wipe all of the way around both sides and re-inflate while the soapy water is still wet. That should ensure that you get the grease off and allows your tire to seat on the bead.

Rick
 
After seeing this and a few other threads, I got a wild hair and decided to buy a Shinko 244 and see if it would fit on my A2B Metro. Long story short, NO it won't fit. A little bit too big. This is a 3.00-16 size tire. It's pretty close to fitting on the rear, but not even close to fitting on the front unless I cut all the knobs off, which would sort of defeat the purpose of the tire.

Since then, I have found some other similar tires in a 2.75-16 and 2.50-16 (not Shinko). I'm pretty sure the 2.50-16 will fit both front and rear. I might try the 2.75-16 but it would suck if it doesn't fit.

Anybody in the market for a 3.00-16 Shinko 244?
 
That's a bummer Fetcher, that 244 would never wear out on the 500watt A2B. To bad it didn't fit.

Rick
 
damn! i thought id nailed little hiccup.

off to the carport with soap and water we go!
grease should wash of easy as its castoroil based...

thanx agian.
 
ridethelightning said:
damn! i thought id nailed little hiccup.

off to the carport with soap and water we go!
grease should wash of easy as its castoroil based...

thanx agian.

just remember, you can double the PSI rating just to get the bead to rise up on the rim, just don't leave there and ride. You will be fine, grease should come right off. Let us know how it goes.
 
Well, got the 5405, 18x1.85 Tegasko rim, and 10g 115mm spokes. My next two days off from work will be lacing this up and getting it mounted on the Bomber. I will have comparison pics of my 5403 with laced to the 19x.14, with my 5404 laced to the 17x1.4 and 5405 with the 18x1.85 in this pic.

Rick
 

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Rix said:
Well, got the 5405, 18x1.85 Tegasko rim, and 10g 115mm spokes. My next two days off from work will be lacing this up and getting it mounted on the Bomber. I will have comparison pics of my 5403 with laced to the 19x.14, with my 5404 laced to the 17x1.4 and 5405 with the 18x1.85 in this pic.

Rick

Do you know anyone running a Cromotor in a Stealth?
 
zombiess said:
Rix said:
Well, got the 5405, 18x1.85 Tegasko rim, and 10g 115mm spokes. My next two days off from work will be lacing this up and getting it mounted on the Bomber. I will have comparison pics of my 5403 with laced to the 19x.14, with my 5404 laced to the 17x1.4 and 5405 with the 18x1.85 in this pic.

Rick

Do you know anyone running a Cromotor in a Stealth?

I talked to guy via PM from the Stealth thread a while back who was planning on running one, I can't remember his name or I would reference it. Also, Dlogic had a Cromo V1 one laced up to a 2.15x19 Super Moto rim that I believe he ran on his Bomber for a spell. If I recall correctly, he was pushing 8KW through it. If I couldn't have located a 5405, I was going to go the cromo route myself.

Rick
 
Here are some pics of my wheel build I just competed today. 18x1.85 laced to a 5405 and a 2.75x18Sr241. Also for comparison is a pic of my 17, 18, and 19 mc rims laced to my various 54xx motors. Used the bomber swingarm as a truing stand. Ghetto as homie the clown but it worked.
 

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Great thread, saved me some serious head scratching (and money wasting). I previously tried fitting a 2.5-21" Heidenau tire on my Gemini 900 26" frame - the tire was too fat (Diameter was ok at 700mm) :x For some reason the 2.5" is actually 2.91" when inflated!!

Came across this handy spec sheet from the Heidenau's website which lists the actual diameters and widths of their tires at min - max pressures :p
 

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nice work, rix!
Rix said:
Used the bomber swingarm as a truing stand.
my wheel is so heavy that my bicycle wheel truing stand sagged (it had one tiny brace), but i realized it just needed some supports:
20140112_100301.jpg


and where the old guide was bolted, i added my own bolts for truing:
20140112_134007.jpg
 
Yah, bicycle wheel truing stands are weak for 31+ pound lace jobs, you got to use my ghetto method :lol: , it works, this is my third MC wheel build with the homey the clown ghetto swingarm truing method. Looks like if you spin the wheel really easy during the truing process, your stand should collapse.

Rick
 
Rix said:
Looks like if you spin the wheel really easy during the truing process, your stand should collapse.
nah, just needed a foot to secure it. much better if bolted to the bench tho!
[youtube]Pk3cxe7dw04[/youtube]

maybe someday i'll upgrade my truing stand to a stealth tho... :twisted:
 
I ment to say shouldn't not should, but you got my meaning. That's a fast H40XX. IS that an over-volted 4080? Laced wheel looks great, you know its good and perfectly round when you run it and can't tell its spinning. Mine is super close to perfect but a keen eye can detect the slight out of round I got. Used ever trick I know, I don't think its me, I think the rim is about 1/2mm elongated and out of round on mine. Can't feel it riding down the road. Yours is definitely not the case.
 
HI Rix
I don't get on the forum very often and have spent some time catching up on all your post re-wheels I'd just like to say thanks for all the work and time you have spent on this. I'm looking at the MC option too and your research is very helpful. Looks like you like the 3.00 or 2.75 x17 SR241 does the 17" handel better than the 19" or is it just the extra torque that makes it better?
Is your Tegasko 18" rim from VoltRiders or is their 18" rim different ?
I have the 5405 motor what do do you think compared to the others ?
This may be a silly question but are Moped and MC rims and tiers cross compatible, would the SR241 17" go on a 17" Moped rim?
Cheers
 
Lowbank, here is my ride report with the 5405 I posted on the Stealth Thread. Now that I have tried the 17, 18, and 19MC wheel, I can say they all have their strengths and respective weakness over each other. Yes, the 17x1.4 rim running the 3.00x17 SR241 is with out a doubt the most confident on gnarly steep down hill terrain. The slight wider rear just feels more confident than the 18 and 19 down hill. As with being smaller diameter, it does have the power advantage over the others as well, but not my nearly as much as one would think. The 19x1.4 running the SR241 2.75x19 is the best all around role over anything tire I have ran on the Bomber. I have tried this tire with both the 5403 and 5404 by swapping stators out. Its works good and I really like they way this tire roles over the lava rock fields I frequently encounter. Now to the 18. As I thought it would be, the 18 truly splits the difference between the 17 and 19. It rolls better over rocks than the 17 and feels more confident than the 19 down steep gnarly high speed stuff. The size of each SR241 tire on my tape measure is, 3.00x17 was just a tiny bit past the 23 1/2" mark making it 23.6", the 2.75x18 was just a tiny bit past the 24 1/4" mark making it 24.3", and the 2.75x19 was just a tiny bit below the 25 1/4" mark making it 25.2". This is my measurement with the tires inflated to 30 PSI with the tape and wheel held straight up and down. I clarified the tape measurements converted to decimals because I got a PM asking me if I was converting fractions to decimals correctly. :|

your Tegasko 18" rim from VoltRiders or is their 18" rim different
]

The Tegasko rim is a little different than the volt riders, I have both. The Tegasko I am running is 18x 1.85 and weigh 3 pounds. The volt riders 18x1.4 has some of the thickest anodizing I have ever seen and weights 2 pounds. Ironically, the 19x1.4 Prowheel racing rim weighs about an ounce less than the voltriders. The reason I went the Tegasko route was I couldn't find an 18x1.4" rim in polished aluminum other wise I would have stuck with the volt riders rim. Comparing the volt riders next to the Prowheel racing rim, the rims' wells are the exactly same depth, the rims' beads are the exactly same height, spoke holes exactly the same size too, only the diameter is different and the drilled spoke angles are slightly less.

quote5405 Ride Report:

Had a 14 miler yesterday on my Bomber shod with the 5405 18MC rim running the 2.75x18 SR241. About 8 miles of that ride was in soft not too deep sand. Really soft stuff though. First the negative. Running 80V @ 70Ah, the 5405 isn't any faster than the 5404 off the line. Doesn't pull me any faster up hills, or in the sand. Top speed is 6MPH less than the 5404. With the dynamics of hub motors, I am starting to wonder if the laws of diminishing returns applies to any direct drive hub motor with more than 4 turn wire wind on the stator? Even on Justin's Ebike.ca simulator, the 5305 doesn't pull any harder than the 5304, the 5304 uses more energy doing it and runs about 5-6MPH faster with same input values. Even though the data is with the 53xx, the simulations reflect my real world findings as far as the difference between the 5404 and 5405 go for top speed and perceived thrust force. If this is the case, I can see why the Cromotor is only offered in a 4 turn stator. Now the positive. After my 14 miler yesterday, I noted that I had averaged 77Wh per mile. In comparison, back in September, when I first moved to my current location, I rode really close to the exact same ride as yesterday and my 5404 was about 83wh per mile. So the 5405 is getting the job done with less current at the price of slower top speed and as an added benefit, my voltage doesn't sag as much as it did hot off the charger which probably extended my battery life span by 50-75 cycles :lol: Being that top speed isn't as important to me as hill climbing ability, I was aware that the 5405 would be slower and not surprisingly, with corrected mm, still runs close to 39MPH WOT down the road. But if I had a chose between two motors, one motor went faster than the other, but they both had the same rated thrust torque force, I would take faster option, which is what the 5404 is compared to the 5405. A while back, I posted a ride report on the difference between the 5404 and 5403 when I first did that mod, there was a noticeable difference between the 5404 and 5403 off the line. What's really strange is with the wheel off the ground, the 5405 WOT spins 73MPH, my 5403 is good for 76MPH, the 5404 tops out at 65MPH. Not sure whats going on with that, but the wheel on the ground top speed of the 5405 is where it should be. In my opinion as things are the way they are right now, I would not recommend the 5405 over the 5404, and for bigger heavier riders and people that desire hill climbing over top speed, the 5404 is still the best of both worlds. All that being said, I reached out to some much smarter guys than me on the thread and learned that this may be a controller issue for why the 5405 isn't pulling harder than the 5404. One of the guys has responded to me and offered to walk me through modding my controller to get more out of the 5405. If I stay with the current controller, I will be doing this.

Rick
 
Rix said:
The 19x1.4 running the SR241 2.75x19 is the best all around role over anything tire I have ran on the Bomber.
Hi Rix,

I am leaning towards this setup for a bomber.

I would really appreciate any specifics you can give in regards to spokes / nipples etc (and where to buy) that are needed to build this for a stock bomber motor.

Full Q @ http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56866

Appreciate your wisdom and posts!

Cheers
 
welcome said:
Rix said:
The 19x1.4 running the SR241 2.75x19 is the best all around role over anything tire I have ran on the Bomber.
Hi Rix,

I am leaning towards this setup for a bomber.

I would really appreciate any specifics you can give in regards to spokes / nipples etc (and where to buy) that are needed to build this for a stock bomber motor.

Full Q @ http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56866

Appreciate your wisdom and posts!

Cheers

No problem and not hard to do, find a spoke cutter in your area, running the 54xx with Prowheel Racing 19x1.4 Yamaha Playbike rim, get yourself some 18mm long spoke nipples with a 6mm body and some 3mm spoke stalk cut at 127mm with 90 degree "L" bends. Gary, the owner of Prowheel racing has 133 instock, I ground ever spoke as they were about 6mm too long when I laced up mine. Good luck, post some pics and let us know who you like it.

Rick
 
GCnDC, that could have been me in that video we do the exact same thing changing tires. Sponge and soapy water are your best friends. Thanks for making the video.

Rick
 
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