3d-print e-mountainboard motor issues

pckinzley

10 µW
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
5
Hi All,

I just built an electric mountain board but am having some problems in the power or torque or gearing of my rig. I listed out the components/specs below and had thought that I had somewhat over built this system but I cannot seem to any get good inital speed. I am using a sensorless brushless motor with an ESC that came with a sensor cable(but I dont think that matters right?) do certain ESCs required sensored motors?

Basically, as I attempt to throttle up it seems like the motor does not have the power to turn. I can see it struggling to turn, it makes a chuck chuck chuck type sound and it will move forward(at less than a few feet a sec) but it is laboring bad and cannot get up to speed. Even when I try to give it a bit of a push before throttle I cannot seem to avoid this, perhaps if I got to speed this would go away but I am not sure as I cant get there.

I can see that the belt is not skipping and I have tried numerous timing changes(up and down) soft start, and load changes on the ESC with no major change. I also rewired the ESC to directly connect the motor contacts in case there was a connection issue to no avail. I have wired the batteries in series to get 12s with my setup and I do see that people warn against long power wires to the ESC, which I do have. I understand that this could cause premature ESC failure but could this cause my motor struggling issue as well?

Could this be a bad motor? should the motor be able to easily overcome my grip and take my weight for the start? Any input is greatly appreciated!

I attached a couple pics of my first prototype(it is a little more robust now) 3d-print motor mount for your entertainment. Unfortunately, I tore the whole board down today but if we can get the thing moving I will post more as it comes back together.

specs:
-Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6374-149kv Brushless Outrunner
-TURNIGY K-Force 120A-HV OPTO V2 5-12S
-17 tooth pully 5mm HTD
-62 tooth wheel cog 5MM HTD
-80 tooth belt 5MM HTD
-2 x 6s 5.0A 20s lipo
-SBEC Hobbyking YEP 20A HV (for receiver)
-frysky receiver

20160204_142515-3.jpg
20160204_142511-1.jpg
 
Hi
Hmm, bit perplexed myself there.
I have no experience with that particular ESC so cannot advise on timing or setup there, maybe somebody can help as it would seem to be a viable ESC.
There will be a bit of cogging at start-up but this should go away as soon as the wheels start turning, just a very slight kick push should alleviate it - especially with that motor and voltage.
That motor at 12S and your gearing should be able to pull trains. I have a board with the 6374 168kv motor, so pretty similar, running on 8S and with the slightest push start there is no cogging at all.
I really hope others can help you out here - without having to resort to purchasing a new ESC. (If you do, go VESC would be my advice)
Good luck man.
 
Hey.

I dont know the ESC but i can point out something else.

Your Gearratio is really bad. 3.65:1 is far away from good for an EMTB.

You geared your board with the 12S Lipo for 43mph or 69kmh :shock:

I use the same Motor with a 6:1 Gearing and it pulls like hell.

Go at least down to a 12tooth pulley.

Greetz.
Jenso
 
Thanks for these reply's sorry for my slow response. For some reason I thought the forum would email me but it must not be default.

Weechumlee: I did start to worry about my ESC. It does have braking and timing stuff despite being a heli design but I had a bad feeling on it and went out and put an order down for two of the enertion VESCs the day before yesterday.. unfortunately, they wont get here for more than a month! The mountain board I have as foot straps and so it is really hard to get foot speed prior to engagement with out it being really awkward so I was hoping for a smoother start. A second point, when brakes are enabled there is no coast so I cant really use my foot - more reasons for VESC.

Nowind: I thought I read somewhere that a 3:1 was an ok ratio for this type of application, but it is interesting to hear that your 6:1 is giving good results. I did find all of the speed and gearing ratio calculators but I am struggling with assessing the real power of a particular motor. I want to design for 200lb load. How do I know if this is the motor or the load that is the issue, how can I factor in weight in this calculation? I was using SDP/SI for pulleys and gears and the smallest 8mm bore is 17 I looked around and found some 12 tooth 8mm on ebay though so maybe I will try it out. I dont trust my drill press skills on the small pulley...

Also what about teeth in mesh, the smaller pulley would bring me down to 4 from 6. I read 6 was a good amount for teeth in mesh and lower might not be good. Any thoughts here?

thanks all for your responses!
 
Hey.

Yes its a problem if to less teeth in mesh.

I´m using a roller to use this problem.

My reduction from 12:72 is without the roller not workable.



Greetz
Jenso
 
Does anyone have any comment on calculating for power of a given motor or system? I want to design for a given total weight 200Lbs. How do you calculate whether a given motor KV/amp/gearing ratio will work?

Nowind: how much stress would you say is on the roller in your case? Is most of the strain in the system still bearing on the big and small pulley? I have concerns about adding this into my 3d print mount.

thanks all!
 
nowind said:
Hey.

Yes its a problem if to less teeth in mesh.

I´m using a roller to use this problem.

My reduction from 12:72 is without the roller not workable.



Greetz
Jenso

Nice !! Where did you find that roller , how wide?,.. i opted for (3) 4mm wide bearings side by side for a 15mm belt.
 
The roller is from maedler.de
https://www.maedler.de/Article/14087200

It has 30mm diameter, its 35mm long.
I have shorten it about 3mm.

Fits nice with the 25mm width Belt.

Greetz
Jenso
 
Finally made some progress on this project but ran into a snag. I ended up going with a similar solution as randycy1 for the roller. However, I notice the bearing are eating the belt a little so may 3d print a covering that will hopefully be smoother. I did end up transitioning to a 12 and 72 (6:1) pulley system + a VESC and was able to get an amazing 10 blocks including some uphill.

2 problems though, one catastrophic, that I hoping those here can help with!

The first is that I am getting some cogging at about mid throttle persistently and then again while on hills. I noticed that I got a few cogs on start up which I might expect but I basically also get a persistent knocking cog after getting up to maybe 5-10mph as well as braking and it seems to be very consistent as speed increases.

The second problem is my set screw. I have now destroyed 2 small pulley's threads for the set screw. My pulley was 6mm bore so I used a lathe to bring it to 8mm bore to match the 149kv turnigy motor Im using. This leaves my pully with about a 1-2mm worth of metal around the motor shaft. I dremel cut a flat spot on the motor shaft and used lock tight etc. Howeve, I think the combo of the cogging(think I need to deisgn for this anyway) and torque basically killed the threads and ejected the set screw. I now feel like drilling a hole through the shaft and using a pin design might be best? What are people's thoughts here? Nowind: your small pulley looks very robust can you share any information about it.

thanks all!
 
Timing on the esc for that outrunner may not be ideal. You might check for timing settings for that motor. From your first post, I was also going to suggest double checking your motor to esc connections because it sounded like you were missing a phase.
 
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