3D printed parts Depository

Beto, The one he has I believe is Voodoo's adapter.

Voodoojar's ABEC 11 Gear Hub Adapter - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:239165
Voodoojar's Kegel Hub Adapter - http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=64419

Added - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:236811 Electric Mountainboard (someone elses)
 
Jumping the bandwagon:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:545345

Similar to Voodoojar's, but I'm using nut traps, #10 screws, and have a chamfer instead of a lip on the edge of the pulley for an easier install.
 
beto_pty said:
I believe your motor mounts are going to flex a lot destroying your belts.... ask me how i know--- :shock:
Click to expand...
PLA is more rigid than ABS, my motor holder seems to be fine for now but it need more tests i confess.

beto_pty said:
ICan you post the link to the wheel gear.. I think it would make an awesome addition to this topic..
Click to expand...
This is the url that torqueboards posted, it fits really well.
 
Awesome brent
Can you post the original files? Id like to change the gear to 15mm as all my setups use this thickness.

I opened up vodojars adapter as well as de sdp/si gears on makerbot desktop, centered them both, and then offset the adapter so that it rested on the top of the gear. Am currently printingin 100% infill abs, see what milage i can get out of it..

I will probably (in the same backwards manner) do 32, 36, 40, 42 just to have them around, assuming my 48 gets me at least 500 -750 kms or so..If you buy regular filament the part will run you under 2 bucks, if you extrude your own filament it should be under 25c-30c each...

There are several parametric gears in thingiverse customizer but they have a series of details i ignore, i assume they have to do with the shape or the geometry of the tooth, so if somene can decipher wat the data is for say htd5 it would allow every single one of us to cutomize their gears...

Disclaimer...before several of you tell me it is cheaper just to buy from sdp/si (which is true) remember not all of us live in the US, international shipping costs tend to be ridicuoulous... also that it takes between 3 and 5 weeks for stuff to get to us...
 
what is the suggested extrusion/heated bed temp for nylon? Extrusion speeds?
I saw someone suggesting we extrude with regular weedwacker nylon filament.. any experience with that?

edit: this is cool and informative http://www.tridimake.com/2013/04/3D-printing-with-cheap-trimmer-line.html
 
I have tried yet but have a spool ready from Taulman. I know, you can use the trimmerline but you supposedly have to dry it out as it contains water which is bad for the extruder. There are a few methods for drying it out. Haven't tried trimmer line yet but would be nice.

With the price of Nylon 618 being fairly cheap it makes sense to just use that if it's available.
 
I'm all of a sudden dying to learn how to design things for 3d printing. Is it worth spending money on a program? Or maybe there's something I can download somewhere that you recommend. I learned a bit of vcarve and it's incapable of doing much it seems.
I'm seeing free programs and would like to learn something where I wont end up wishing I'd learned something else. vcarve isnt even usable for printing I imagine.


...

blender it is
 
beto_pty said:
Awesome brent
Can you post the original files? Id like to change the gear to 15mm as all my setups use this thickness.
Click to expand...

Sure; does a STEP file work? Or, I could just change the belt width for you; that'd take about the same amount of time.
I assume you're using Solidworks, and my CAD is all done in Inventor.


Also: I had the impression that the Taulman 618 had to be dried, too.
 
@ Hummina Shadeeba

I myself are a big fan of Solidworks. Mainly because I use it since the very early versions. It is expensive if you can't get the student license.
Autodesk Inventor, lots of people like it, same cons as above.
Google Sketchup, free but not as nice to work with and some of the features are missing.
Then we got 123D which seems nice and got a few real nice features like a 3D scanner app for your phone.

About learning one and regretting it later. They all sort of work the same way. Saying that, it doesn't really matter which one you start learning it's fairly easy to switch between them.
If you should go with Solidworks, check out Lynda.com for their teaching videos.

Just my 2 cents, thoughts of others?

-Sven
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
vcarve isnt even usable for printing I imagine
...
Click to expand...

Vcarve is an awesome cnc milling software..it is also 2D as opposed to 3D. If you want to cnc mill then cut3d works really well, also very easy to work with.
My motormounts, and my aluminum boards have all been cut using it. It is not additive printing, it is subtractive...so there is no b3tter or worse software. . You just hav3 to decide what you want to do... if you dont know where you are going odds are you will make an incorrect choice.
There's a million tutorials on you tube for solidworks, which was what I used for my latest part.. however all my previous solids where made using sketchup.
Id recomend sketchup make which is free and allows you to start designing today... it is very simple and can output directly to a 3d slicer like makerbot desktop or something equivalent. Also getting to be proficient in 3d modeling takes a definite interest and a bit of time and struggle. .. specially learning on your own..

brent said:
Sure; does a STEP file work? Or, I could just change the belt width for you; that'd take about the same amount of time.
I assume you're using Solidworks
Click to expand...
Ok thanks ill take the 15mm changed file...my solidworks does not like step files so much. Thank you again
 
Awesome belt sprockets. Those are so hard to find if you don't make your own.

There are a growing number of places that can print parts for you if you send them the CAD file. At work, we had some tiny parts printed out of stainless steel. They use metal powder and a high powered laser to fuse the powder into a solid piece. Not cheap, but those parts would be almost impossible to machine from a block.
 
brent said:
Added the STL.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:545345/
Click to expand...

Thanks a million man...so maybe plan at some point to design the 42 , 48 nd 36 tooth pulleys? I believe they are the most common ones around.

Ill print my 40 toother monday, as well as my not so elegantly made 48 tooth and see what they look like...
This community rocks!

Im also looking into a design for a light fixture, truck mounted, hopefully available from hobbyking or one of our common suppliers, connected to our battery, any ideas would be welcome.
 
beto_pty said:
Thanks a million man...so maybe plan at some point to design the 42 , 48 nd 36 tooth pulleys? I believe they are the most common ones around.
Click to expand...

I've been pretty busy lately, but I'll see what I can do, haha. As soon as I'm done with college apps...

Let me know how the 15mm pulley works out for you, though.
 
Sorry man...should have quit when I was ahead. :?
Thanks again. ?
 
torqueboards said:
beto_pty said:
Sorry man...should have quit when I was ahead. :?
Thanks again. ?
Click to expand...

Beto, you could always download the cad files (dwg) for the pulleys from sdp-si and re-design around it.
Click to expand...

Hi my sad face was a joke ...
Yes I will try to get them set up next week..
The first one will probably take a bit, but the rest will probably be easy
 
Wow Brad
Nice part.. just printed out one to check for fit and the part is awesome in design.. will probably print it out tonight..

Great Job!!
 
Here are the first prints..

ScreenHunter_56 Nov. 18 09.20.jpg
View attachment 1
ScreenHunter_53 Nov. 18 09.13.jpg

Any chance you can do the 42 tooth one.. just tried it on the mount and the belt is too loose.. as it was designed for a 42 tooth version...
 
beto_pty said:
Any chance you can do the 42 tooth one.. just tried it on the mount and the belt is too loose.. as it was designed for a 42 tooth version...
Click to expand...

Can't say that's a huge surprise, haha. I'll see if I can throw something together tonight.

Aside from the tensioning, did it turn out alright? Maybe it's just the photo, but the teeth look really rough.
 
PLA works great for investment casting!
I've got a guy who teaches at the crucible here in Oakland who is going to do me two truck hangers with motor mounts I designed..in aluminum or possibly bronze. YouTube has a video of someone even using their microwave to melt the aluminum using some kinda shield for the aluminum so it doesn't get hit directly with microwaves. I might do it in bronze though, seeing how hard it'll be for me to get the aluminum heat treated. He's going to do it with the axle in so high heat the steel axle so the two metals have a similar shrink happening and not as likely to crack. But I've seen skate companies do it that way and it looks like they don't even heat the axle so should be ok

The teacher is excited about how PLA can revolutionize investment casting. Before making the pattern which then forms the mold was an arduous time consuming process but with printed pla...it's even environmentally pretty good. Carbon(soot) and co2

printing is great but design programs suck I quickly decided. I designed the pattern to be printed in clay and then scanned it. This way you can use shapes that aren't so machined looking and more organic. Next I want to make a hanger/mount out of my credit card and little erasers and stuff from the Japanese store

. If torque had had a plate that fit my motor 6 months ago I would've been long done here and saved a ton. But I didn't like any of the sold mounts much anyway and then get obsessed with trying the in the hub motor mount. Now that it's collapsing on itself I'm onto this. I like this. I'll make a couple and see if anyone wants one. Or maybe you could send me your printed pattern

I thought only nasa had that print in metal tech. Didn't know it was commercially available yet. Nice.
 
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