Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Hey guys quick question. I connected my BMS yesterday and all went well no issues at all. However, I noticed something new that happens when I restart the bike from suspend mode (have it set to timeout after 5 minutes). When the screen powers on the !!BMS!! message appears for about 4-5 seconds and then it goes back to normal. I'm thinking this is fine and that the controller is just detecting that the BMS is present, but I wanted to confirm with you guys that there is no cause for concern here. Has anyone else experienced this?
 
GmagNeato said:
Hey guys quick question. I connected my BMS yesterday and all went well no issues at all. However, I noticed something new that happens when I restart the bike from suspend mode (have it set to timeout after 5 minutes). When the screen powers on the !!BMS!! message appears for about 4-5 seconds and then it goes back to normal. I'm thinking this is fine and that the controller is just detecting that the BMS is present, but I wanted to confirm with you guys that there is no cause for concern here. Has anyone else experienced this?

This is totally normal. It is just the bms connecting to the controller. For the first few seconds the controller is not detecting it while it starts up. :D I get this when turning on my bike, so i presume it is the same as when coming out of suspend mode.
 
It looks like i have finally sorted out my bike. I swapped my hall sensors on my cromotor, i was using the spare ones and now have swapped for the main set and it was SO much easier to manually tune. And i now have temp temp sensor working :D
Motor now running nice and cool and the controller is laso cooler.

Can someone tell me whether to set the temp sensor to T of OVH(over heat) and what is the best degrees C setting to put in the diplay?
And What does the controller do with the OVH setting?
 
brumbrum said:
GmagNeato said:
Hey guys quick question. I connected my BMS yesterday and all went well no issues at all. However, I noticed something new that happens when I restart the bike from suspend mode (have it set to timeout after 5 minutes). When the screen powers on the !!BMS!! message appears for about 4-5 seconds and then it goes back to normal. I'm thinking this is fine and that the controller is just detecting that the BMS is present, but I wanted to confirm with you guys that there is no cause for concern here. Has anyone else experienced this?

This is totally normal. It is just the bms connecting to the controller. For the first few seconds the controller is not detecting it while it starts up. :D I get this when turning on my bike, so i presume it is the same as when coming out of suspend mode.

Whew.. good news. Thanks for easing my mind Brum! Yes it does it when I power down and up at the breaker as well. I would be installing my keyswitch today, but they didn't send the backing nut for it! :?
 
brumbrum said:
I looks like i have finally sorted out bike. I swapped my hall sensors on my cromotor, i was using the spare ones and now have swapped for the main set and it was SO much easier to manually tune. And i now have temp temp sensor working.

Can someone tell me whether to set the temp sensor to T of OVH(over heat) and what is the best degrees C setting?

What does the controller do with the OVH setting?

From my understanding the T/OVH options correspond to the meter on the right of the display. When set to T the bars will fill up as the temperature rises. When set to OVH they only fill up after reaching or approaching a max temp threshold. I have mine set on T.
 
GmagNeato said:
brumbrum said:
I looks like i have finally sorted out bike. I swapped my hall sensors on my cromotor, i was using the spare ones and now have swapped for the main set and it was SO much easier to manually tune. And i now have temp temp sensor working.

Can someone tell me whether to set the temp sensor to T of OVH(over heat) and what is the best degrees C setting?

What does the controller do with the OVH setting?

From my understanding the T/OVH options correspond to the meter on the right of the display. When set to T the bars will fill up as the temperature rises. When set to OVH they only fill up after reaching or approaching a max temp threshold. I have mine set on T.


Thanks for that. Any idea what is a good temperature to set?
 
brumbrum said:
GmagNeato said:
brumbrum said:
I looks like i have finally sorted out bike. I swapped my hall sensors on my cromotor, i was using the spare ones and now have swapped for the main set and it was SO much easier to manually tune. And i now have temp temp sensor working.

Can someone tell me whether to set the temp sensor to T of OVH(over heat) and what is the best degrees C setting?

What does the controller do with the OVH setting?

From my understanding the T/OVH options correspond to the meter on the right of the display. When set to T the bars will fill up as the temperature rises. When set to OVH they only fill up after reaching or approaching a max temp threshold. I have mine set on T.


Thanks for that. Any idea what is a good temperature to set?

No problem! Not sure what a safe max is for the Cro I would check the spec sheet and leave a buffer zone of around 10 degrees.
 
I can't find clock in the Adaptto menu to be displayed somewhere :-D
Is there any chance to add clock function in firmware update? Pleaaase :)
 
I had a strange issue occurring with my display that gradually got worse, occasionally it appeared like I had pressed down on the display. After a while the frequency of these ghost button presses got more frequent and then last week it was constant, scrolling through menus at light speed.

I swapped to my other display and this immediately solved the issue with button presses, but had other odd issues, I was completely unable to enter the throttle or brake limits menu. This appeared to because the display was running on an earlier firmware version than the controller. My two displays are V6 and V5 according to the PCB, however the display that I swapped to is the older unit that actually came with the mini-e that I'm running, so should definitely be compatible. To confuse matters I also swapped my motor at the same time to the QS v3 205mm in 17" wheel.

To fix this I tried updating to the latest firmware and now I'm experiencing some very weird behavior with trying to set throttle limits. I can actually select the option (improvement!) but the graph is unresponsive to throttle and when I go back to the previous menu it overlays the menu over the graph like a ghost image, very odd. Note that the throttle etc is definitely working and wired correctly, I rode the bike into work prior to doing the firmware update and it had some tuning issues with the new motor but otherwise worked fine. I have reset the controller

Has anybody got a copy of the mini-e unlocked firmware from rc9d or similar? This is what I was running previously and worked well. Adaptto have changed the website and removed all the historic firmwares.
 
hi
What's throttle working without problems with the Max-e? the magura or the domino?
If both doing problem, what other GOOD brand exist that work's good with the adaptto?
 
I possibly need some help balancing my cells.
20s lipo pack ranging from 3.85v to 3.94v and slowly rising imbalance with every short use. At this state of charge whats the best MINIMUM and MAXIMUM charge settings to put into the adaptto bms to get them rebalanced? and should i set a certain supply and charge current for the controller and coil for this particular purpose or does it not matter if the conteoller is just 'balancing' and not charging.

Its doing my head in, i am over thinking it all. I need pointing in the right direction please with an explanation and some numbers. :cry:
 
Maximum - 4.17V pre cell. * 20 83.4V whole pack.
I'm not sure what u mean by minimum, if u r talking about minimuo so start balancing, so,
Set the controller to start balancing from 4.1-4.15V so it won't waste time.
If u r talking about low voltage cutoff, it's depend on u usage (how much sag) but, something 3.4-3.6V per cell is seem ok to me.. *20 = 68-72V whole pack.
 
brum - Best bet is to bottom balance your cells. Set your max charge to 4.1v or whatever you norm charge to and do a low amp charge (half your std C rated charge) for around 5-6 hrs. This should allow tthe cells to very slowly become balanced to 4.1v. It may take longer than 5-6 hrs the first time, took 14 hrs to balance the A123 20ah cells (fyi luckily I had a few spares to swap out my pack as one cell only had 11ah @ 80% DOD @ 10degC whilst the rest had 14-15ah).

If during discharge they still range quite drastically you've a decision to make, lower your std C discharge rate (as the internal IR increases the higher C you go, making the bad cell stand out more), tolerate future longer charges (to continue balancing out to get max DOD poss from the weaker cell), find at what point the cells unbalance and stick to that % DOD or replace the unbalanced cell.

From how I've observed the BMS to work, set max to 4.15v and balance to 4.1v, this way one or two cells may runaway to 4.15v, but the BMS will eventually drag the weaker cells up to 4.1v :).
 
ccmdr said:
brum - Best bet is to bottom balance your cells. Set your max charge to 4.1v or whatever you norm charge to and do a low amp charge (half your std C rated charge) for around 5-6 hrs. This should allow tthe cells to very slowly become balanced to 4.1v. It may take longer than 5-6 hrs the first time, took 14 hrs to balance the A123 20ah cells (fyi luckily I had a few spares to swap out my pack as one cell only had 11ah @ 80% DOD @ 10degC whilst the rest had 14-15ah).

If during discharge they still range quite drastically you've a decision to make, lower your std C discharge rate (as the internal IR increases the higher C you go, making the bad cell stand out more), tolerate future longer charges (to continue balancing out to get max DOD poss from the weaker cell), find at what point the cells unbalance and stick to that % DOD or replace the unbalanced cell.

From how I've observed the BMS to work, set max to 4.15v and balance to 4.1v, this way one or two cells may runaway to 4.15v, but the BMS will eventually drag the weaker cells up to 4.1v :).

I probably gave a bad example using 3.85 and 3.94 but that is where the top and bottom cells are at present after doing some initial testing on my new setup and i just want to balance them for storage and not fully charge them. But i can take them up to a higher voltage no problem, as i want to get some more initial runs under my belt as i increase performance/amps and tweak settings.

Ccmdr: Thanks, thats great. Yeah, i noticed that even when setting 'maximum' cell to say 3.9 it still raises the highest cell above this point when balancing?. Normal?

So,
Low amp charge... Say 10amps
Set cell maximim to 4.1v
Set cell balance to 4.05v

Correct?

Btw, My discharge C rate is quite reasonable , about 2.5C for the 10C multistar lipos - 30ah.
 
Anyone know if it is possible to turn off the display during a balance charge? My balancing is going to take a day or two or three at the current rate of exchange between cells :(
 
Merlin said:
did you have the option to charge/balance it with a RC charger? that adaptto starts with a balanced battery?

I did have all the cells at 3.8v but as I went out testing my new setup one of my cells went off the cliff down to 3.4v and when charging back up I have now got on weaker cell lagging behind most of the others. I had 1.3v difference between top and bottom cell :?

The problem is that the top cells on the bms board seem to charge to maximum quickly and then the adaptto bms goes into balance mode. at this time bms is just taking small amounts off the top maximum cell and putting into the other cells that are behind.
 
yep i find out the same.
i have a old cheap zippy battery that needs also some more balance. but no matter if i setup balance start 4.1 or 4.17

it starts to balance, but some cells run at the top to 4.2 .... the balance power is to low. yes. but thats not that problem.
adaptto should lower the charging that these cells dont run away.

but iam stuck at something other...

near the end of charging the adappto stops charging with charging current to low....
waits some seconds, detecting charger and start again to charge.
 
Guys, just fired up my bike for the first time to make sure my battery functions before heatshrinkimg and got some weird stuff that i need some advice on.
1- as soon as i turned it on i had halls error??? Havnt done autodetect yet- i assume this means something is faulty between the adaptto and my cromotor halls
2- i set up the number of boards as the manual says to do, the cells display the correct voltage in the respective order as shown below, but when i enable the bms the halls error changes to bms error?

Any advice?
 

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Someone knows why they put the anti theft mode to the unlocked firmware?
Bought a new midi e for PAS in addition to the "cop safe" firmware and cant use it anymore.......if i want warranty.

It sucks, i cant lock my controller when i leave the bike.
This was a very usefull feature to prevent the bike from being pushed around or my litte niece could not apply throttle accidently etc.
 
Update... Problem 2 sorted... Just a noob mistake with an incorrect board in the bms set up. Disco time now aroumd my
Bms
Now need to hunt down the halls error
 

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