Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Seven]

Here's a mod made to my Mini-E with 2 fans and a heat-sink.

Not sure how much heat it will remove, and it will be some time before I find out because of other work still to be done on my motor.
I'm hoping it will allow 4-5KW continuous without overheating.

The heat-sink is from E-bay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121532652740?

The fans are Yeah Racing fans with 5.13CFM: http://www.rcmart.com/rc-yeah-racing-ya0201-tornado-high-speed-25x25mm-p-29521.html

They will probably get dirty/wet/muddy etc over time...but they are cheap, and that is why I have some spares.
I attached them with strong double sided tape for now. If it fails, I will probably just epoxy them.

The thermal paste is some of the best out there...for CPU's at least:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121405296689?

One of the other reasons I did this mod was I needed to reduce the voltage getting to the fans I'm going to be running inside my motor if I wanted to run them in series directly off a higher voltage battery.
This way I don't have to mess around with a DC-DC converter (again).

Cheers

If you enclose your fan, heat sink assembly you will have a huge increase in cooling capacity just make sure both fans aren't pushing against each other, and the air is flowing freely from one side of the cooling tube to the other,
But all that is assuming you're not mounting the controller in direct airflow, if you are I can't see those fans doing much at all apart from impeding airflow across the heat sink

 

[Cowardlyduck]

If you enclose your fan, heat sink assembly you will have a huge increase in cooling capacity just make sure both fans aren't pushing against each other, and the air is flowing freely from one side of the cooling tube to the other

Good idea. I guess I could just use some plastic or something to duct it like you suggest. The fans are already in a push-pull setup both blowing in the same direction.

Cheers

 

[xenodius]

If you enclose your fan, heat sink assembly you will have a huge increase in cooling capacity just make sure both fans aren't pushing against each other, and the air is flowing freely from one side of the cooling tube to the other

Good idea. I guess I could just use some plastic or something to duct it like you suggest. The fans are already in a push-pull setup both blowing in the same direction.

Cheers

This is the kind of mod best served by ABS sheets + acetone, or some alternative.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

This is the kind of mod best served by ABS sheets + acetone, or some alternative.

:lol: LOL - your probably right, but there ain't no way I'm going to go to that much effort when any old plastic I've got lying around will do the job just fine. If I do it, I'll probably just use some old packaging, an ice-cream lid, or a Chinese takeaway container cut up and painted black.

Cheers

 

[ridethelightning]

just a bit of extruded"u"section in alu or pvc rivoted to the outside fins should make a neat solution. just a matter of finding the right shape...
looking nice! 8)

 

[Adaptto E-Drives Lab]

Man I hope you are right. I was wondering if I tried to update the firmware it would over write or even allow me to do that.

Going to read up on that now. Anyone know for sure ?

Thanks for the reply.


***EDIT*** I looked into it.

Ok I know for sure now. Flashing does NOT reset the password. It let me flash it fine , but afterwards on boot comes right back up to
LOCKED enter password.

I am still at a loss as I would not want to use a password nor set one up. Hopefully there's some default I can try to remove it.

Dear Ohzee,

There is a default password combination which could help you in this case: LEFT-LEFT - UP - LEFT - DOWN.
This problem could be caused if the settings were not reset after the latest firmware upgrade.

Regards,

 

[ohzee]

Man I hope you are right. I was wondering if I tried to update the firmware it would over write or even allow me to do that.

Going to read up on that now. Anyone know for sure ?

Thanks for the reply.


***EDIT*** I looked into it.

Ok I know for sure now. Flashing does NOT reset the password. It let me flash it fine , but afterwards on boot comes right back up to
LOCKED enter password.

I am still at a loss as I would not want to use a password nor set one up. Hopefully there's some default I can try to remove it.

Dear Ohzee,

There is a default password combination which could help you in this case: LEFT-LEFT - UP - LEFT - DOWN.
This problem could be caused if the settings were not reset after the latest firmware upgrade.

Regards,

That was it. I was asked not to disclose so I did not , but since you posted this out of my hands.

Thanks

 

[sn0wchyld]

Anyone in here with input on how the adaptto maxe works together with a revolt 120 motor?

Theres an Anton Simonov on YT that have video of this combo posted.
I have asked for an opinion of the combo, but I havent gotten any reply.
I dont understand the russian in the video if he says something that answers my question.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIrGe2HO2dQ

Grateful for any info!

In the video, he first tests it with square wave and gets around 250W in consumption, then he changes to sine wave and gets 1250W at the same RPM. So 1000Watt just goes do heat. His conclusion is that Adaptto works best with slow DD hubmotors.

that to me just screams a lack of tuning... something like the hall offset being way out. im sure there's some exceptions but switching form trap to sin even on a motor with a trap back emf shouldn't create anywhere near that much extra loss... my guess is that some time spent tuning should get things back down around the 250w mark. given some others (greenroads iirc) have used the adaptto's on rc motors so the revolts shoudln't be that much different. I'll be runing a rv100pro with mine... so hopefully one of us can figure out some good settings....

Here's a mod made to my Mini-E with 2 fans and a heat-sink.

Not sure how much heat it will remove, and it will be some time before I find out because of other work still to be done on my motor.
I'm hoping it will allow 4-5KW continuous without overheating.

The heat-sink is from E-bay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121532652740?

The fans are Yeah Racing fans with 5.13CFM: http://www.rcmart.com/rc-yeah-racing-ya0201-tornado-high-speed-25x25mm-p-29521.html

They will probably get dirty/wet/muddy etc over time...but they are cheap, and that is why I have some spares.
I attached them with strong double sided tape for now. If it fails, I will probably just epoxy them.

The thermal paste is some of the best out there...for CPU's at least:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121405296689?

One of the other reasons I did this mod was I needed to reduce the voltage getting to the fans I'm going to be running inside my motor if I wanted to run them in series directly off a higher voltage battery.
This way I don't have to mess around with a DC-DC converter (again).

Cheers

i like it... but rather than the enclosure others have suggested i'd mount the two fans flat against the top of the heatsink (as apposed to on the 'side' as they are now...), blowing air into it. that way you'll get the best of both worlds, the fans can boost cooling considerably but the heatsink will still provide additional cooling even with the fans off, something that wouldn't be the case with an enclosed 'tube', since allot of the heatsink is still exposed to passive airflow...

 

[Cowardlyduck]

i like it... but rather than the enclosure others have suggested i'd mount the two fans flat against the top of the heatsink (as apposed to on the 'side' as they are now...), blowing air into it. that way you'll get the best of both worlds, the fans can boost cooling considerably but the heatsink will still provide additional cooling even with the fans off, something that wouldn't be the case with an enclosed 'tube', since allot of the heatsink is still exposed to passive airflow...

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't consider the effect of a shroud when the fans are off, good point.
I do plan on being able to switch these fans on/off as needed, so I definitely don't want to create a small oven on the side of my controller when the fans are off.
I like your idea to blow down into the heat-sink. That is how many CPU coolers work, so it must be somewhat effective, and like you say, still allows passive cooling when the fans are off.

My recumbent commuter has had a failed hall in the motor, so I'll be tied up fixing that up for the next few days, but once it's done, I'll get back to this and try re-mounting the fans like you suggest.

Cheers

 

[bowlofsalad]

I don't yet have a KTY83 thermistor that comes with an adaptto, but I have several motors that lack KTY83 sensors. I am looking on digikey for one and I've found 2, one has a 1k ohm resistance, the other has 990. Anyone know which to get?

Thanks

I sent an e-mail to adaptto, the response I got was they include a KTY84 thermistor/temperature sensor and that is what I should get.

 

[Offroader]

Hello everyone,

Would anyone know how to set voltage drop in the charge settings?

I remember somebody mentioned that for a high quality power supply you should set it to some value. I can't seem to locate that post.


I reset my controller and this value may have went to default and my charging doesn't reach the max battery and power supply amps.

Thanks

 

[striker54]

Hello everyone,

Would anyone know how to set voltage drop in the charge settings?

I remember somebody mentioned that for a high quality power supply you should set it to some value. I can't seem to locate that post.


I reset my controller and this value may have went to default and my charging doesn't reach the max battery and power supply amps.

Thanks

Mine is set to 3V but you can go till 5v without problems.

 

[qwøck]

Hi, does anyone know if it´s possible to restrict the output on the controller to 250w with a switch?

 

[striker54]

Hi, does anyone know if it´s possible to restrict the output on the controller to 250w with a switch?

With a switch i think no. But you have 3 power profiles (ECO, NORMAL and BOOST) and you can program in each one the max speed, max batt amps, max phase amps and acceleration.

 

[ridethelightning]

Hi, does anyone know if it´s possible to restrict the output on the controller to 250w with a switch?

With a switch i think no. But you have 3 power profiles (ECO, NORMAL and BOOST) and you can program in each one the max speed, max batt amps, max phase amps and acceleration.

so as a precaution, might be good to lock the main screen with password so the setting can not be changed from eco by a "hostile" :lol:

 

[Offroader]

I remember reading a post where somebody said that they can charge their bike when the screen was off. I think he said the bike charged but the cell balancing didn't work.

If I turn on my power supply connected to the bike, with the controller screen off or in suspend mode, the bike doesn't charge.

Is there anything I could do to make it charge when the screen is off or in suspend mode? I want to make a switch for my power supply so I can remotely turn the power supply on though the internet and have it charge my bike.

Thanks

 

[ridethelightning]

+1
i have the same issue. bike wont charge when the display is off. odd really.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

As was suggested I tried moving my fans to on top of the heat-sink.
It could not have been a more perfect fit! It turns out the screws that came with the fans for mounting are the perfect size to screw in between the heat-sink fins. I'm not sure if heat-sink fins are a standard width or something, but it could not have worked better. They are in very tight and not going anywhere.

I also added one extra fan. I will be running these in series with the 6 fans in my motor. When running them on my stock 16S (58.4V fully charged) LiFeP04 Fighter battery that will mean they are operating within safe (and quieter) voltage of 6.48V. I think I might set them up with connectors so I can vary how many run in series. That way I can still use 1 or 2 of them in series when I use my 12S (50.4V fully charged) LiPo setup without the fan voltage getting too low to be ineffective. It also makes it easier to run them with 18S LiPo if I decide to do that later...I will just have to add one more fan somewhere.

Cheers

 

[madin88]

well, ok this cooler will do its job, but as it is not inside the frame, why not install a larger heatsink with more surface area? this would do a better job than your small with little screamer fans on it IMO. if you take a look at computer chip / gpu cooling than you'll see little heatsink + fans are more a thing of the past.. sorry for my critical review

 

[Cowardlyduck]

well, ok this cooler will do its job, but as it is not inside the frame, why not install a larger heatsink with more surface area? this would do a better job than your small with little screamer fans on it IMO. if you take a look at computer chip / gpu cooling than you'll see little heatsink + fans are more a thing of the past.. sorry for my critical review

I actually agree with you...but, practicality and some level of aesthetics needs to take precedence. The controller will be mounted to the underside of my frame in between my cranks. If I installed a much larger heat-sink it would be too wide and my cranks would hit it.

I also just ordered this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121310196991

It will go between my frame and the underside of the controller. It's not the highest thermally conductive stuff out there at 5W/mK, but also not terribly expensive at ~$10 vs the $30+ for the 6-7W/mK stuff.

Cheers

 

[ridethelightning]

this is interesting teritory.
im keen to see the results

 

[markass530]

I'm installing 2 Mini-Es with Mac Motors , Ive gotten past the initial auto detect and have the master and slave working together, its just that the slave is running all slow now. I"m also wondering if I Got the right speed ratio , I used 16 as the number of pole pairs, is that correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated,

 

[madin88]

I'm installing 2 Mini-Es with Mac Motors , Ive gotten past the initial auto detect and have the master and slave working together, its just that the slave is running all slow now. I"m also wondering if I Got the right speed ratio , I used 16 as the number of pole pairs, is that correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated,

gear ratio must be considered for right speed reading. so distance per electrical event should be:
wheel circumference / (pole pairs x gear ratio)

 

[Offroader]

Does anyone have an idea of why my range is not displaying the correct % left when it shows the correct remaining in the Stats/WattMeter

For example it shows I have 24% left.


However, if you look at my stats it shows I have the right amount remaining.
It shows 163Remaining out of a total of (1841+163) / 163 = 12.23%


For some reason the two displayed used to move together correctly before I reset my controller. Now it seems they are not moving together and I am not sure why.

 

[Hyena]

Adaptto-noob question, I assume you don't HAVE to use the charging coil ? If you have an existing battery and charger can you just bulk charge the battery as normal and let the BMS take care of balancing via the balance taps ?