Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[ridethelightning]

If anyone else was gettting that maddening Halls error 1, for me the fix was the one I saw mentioned somewhere about holding the wheel tight at the begining of auto detect, and I mean really tight, I didn'tn have a brake on that wheel yet and had to really fight those first couple jerks the motor gives in order to get it to continue the process.

the other thing that causes halls error 1 is a busted hall wire. thats what happened to me.

 

[madin88]

IS this a correct statement ?

"In AWD mode the motor on the slave controller only acts as a "helper" thus won't use as much battery power as the master motor / controller"

it depends on how you set the 2WD system up. you can configure also that both controllers do exactly the same (as example to use it on a 4-wheel vehicle or rickshaw on the rear wheels).

 

[markass530]

Anyone else got firmware v 1rc9f ? I kinda wanna go unlimited but they don't have rc9f up on their site yet

 

[Offroader]

Hi, I’m wondering if anyone here can comment on the “ADDNZ” setting and what it is actually doing?

From the manual:
“Compensation for motor hum that occurs at low speeds due to the switching speed of the controller power MOSFETS.
Recommendations: MINI-E 2-3, MAX-E 5-6. Adjust by trial and error.”..

So what I would like to know is what the controller is actually doing to compensate for this motor hum?

I’m using a C80100 RC Outrunner motor. Cant notice any motor hum, however I notice that this setting effects how quickly the motor heats up..

I was going to actually mess with this setting, interesting that it affects how quickly the motor heats up. What setting 5 or 6, assuming you have a max-e, causes the motor to heat faster?

 

[ridethelightning]

+1

 

[Ohbse]

Hi scfoster, i have the same setup. I think 28S would leave you too little safety room... the FETs inside the adaptto are rated for 100v, and when your cells are fully charged they will be higher then 3.3v. When people on endless sphere advise not going above 22s, they are talking about lipo/NMC chemistry, which has a charged voltage of 4.2v per cell, so 22s is the highest you can go. Because your cells are 3.3v, you could go 24s or 22s. Your gt4000 is 3 turn, so is about 11.6kv, which means if you run 72v, you'll get 840rpm, which in a 24" wheel (wack a 3.5" tyre on the 17" rim of your gt4000, you'll love it) means you'll go 60mph full throttle. Thats will be your vanilla speed, before OVS. OVS will increase that speed, so if you were looking to go 60mph+ (if that was your plan, you'll be wanting that 3.5" tyre for stability!), 24s or 22s, maybe even 20s, combined with adapttos awesome OVS, will get you all the speed you need. What you'll start to find is that the battery and controller are no longer the limits to your speed, but the motor temperatures. The gt4000 is good for 4.5kw continuous, but if you want to go 60mph continuous you need to supply about 7000w+ to that motor!

Anyway hope this helps, if ive got any of these calculations wrong please someone correct me.

Warrah, thanks for the insight. So 24s it is. So I'll build a 24s4p or 24s5p.

This is absolutely incorrect! The cells from the Tesla are exactly the same fully charged voltage as lipo etc, 4.2v. 22s is the absolute highest you should configure your pack, however if you have 100 cells I would highly recommend you go 20s5p to make the most of your purchase. You will be limited by the battery size with regards to maximum power to approximately 75amps and ~6kw. As such configuring for a higher voltage is not going to give you any advantage over 20s or 84v fully charged.

 

[markass530]

When I'm riding in my bike with a Mini-E the speedometer goes to zero when I let off the throttle, is there a way to correct this ?

I am trying to get my new adappto all wheel drive configured running on two mac geared hubs...im having a had time getting accurate speed control. When I let off the throttle the speed setting goes to 0 even if i am moving fast.

Is it possible to have proper speedometer using geared motors...or do i need a separte speed sensor installed on the wheel? If so which speed sensor?

Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

This has been a very difficult set up for me to get this thing working properly.

 

[Samsonov]

There is only one way to correct this - install an external speed sensor.
I've had geared motor with MiniE and the reason it can't measure the speed is freewheel.
Buy some bike sensor and connect it to the break input (to display) then tune it with help of Controller setup -> Ext SPD ratio

 

[GreenRoad]

There is only one way to correct this - install an external speed sensor.
I've had geared motor with MiniE and the reason it can't measure the speed is freewheel.
Buy some bike sensor and connect it to the break input (to display) then tune it with help of Controller setup -> Ext SPD ratio

yes thats right - at motors with freewheels you getting no signal - if you are not useing the throttle.
But the problem of the external speed sensor is: (if you choose this setting)
if you riding normal - the adaptto takes the speed signal from the motor
If you do not turn the throttle - than he checks if he can get an external speed signal and take this signal.

Thats not realy good, because i think, if you choose external speed sensor - the adaptto should allways takes the external speed signal.
This would make sense.

If you use an hub Motor - this is no problem. But if you use an middrive Motor / with different back ratio - thats bad, because you have no right speed signal from the motor.

It would be good if adaptto could check this, an make an modification to the firmware - for the case that somebody use an external speed sensor / outrunner middrive motor.....

 

[marcelkuis]

agree , speedometer with geared middrive not usable
I hope for an update :wink:

 

[GreenRoad]

agree , speedometer with geared middrive not usable
I hope for an update :wink:

yes - should be the same if you use the bafang middrive.
An update would be good, that you can choose what kind of sensor you will use for measurement.
With an hubmotor you have no problem, but if you use an external sensor, this external sensor should always measure the speed

 

[scfoster]

Hi scfoster, i have the same setup. I think 28S would leave you too little safety room... the FETs inside the adaptto are rated for 100v, and when your cells are fully charged they will be higher then 3.3v. When people on endless sphere advise not going above 22s, they are talking about lipo/NMC chemistry, which has a charged voltage of 4.2v per cell, so 22s is the highest you can go. Because your cells are 3.3v, you could go 24s or 22s. Your gt4000 is 3 turn, so is about 11.6kv, which means if you run 72v, you'll get 840rpm, which in a 24" wheel (wack a 3.5" tyre on the 17" rim of your gt4000, you'll love it) means you'll go 60mph full throttle. Thats will be your vanilla speed, before OVS. OVS will increase that speed, so if you were looking to go 60mph+ (if that was your plan, you'll be wanting that 3.5" tyre for stability!), 24s or 22s, maybe even 20s, combined with adapttos awesome OVS, will get you all the speed you need. What you'll start to find is that the battery and controller are no longer the limits to your speed, but the motor temperatures. The gt4000 is good for 4.5kw continuous, but if you want to go 60mph continuous you need to supply about 7000w+ to that motor!

Anyway hope this helps, if ive got any of these calculations wrong please someone correct me.

Warrah, thanks for the insight. So 24s it is. So I'll build a 24s4p or 24s5p.

This is absolutely incorrect! The cells from the Tesla are exactly the same fully charged voltage as lipo etc, 4.2v. 22s is the absolute highest you should configure your pack, however if you have 100 cells I would highly recommend you go 20s5p to make the most of your purchase. You will be limited by the battery size with regards to maximum power to approximately 75amps and ~6kw. As such configuring for a higher voltage is not going to give you any advantage over 20s or 84v fully charged.

Thanks for pointing this out.... I updated my prior post to reflect the 4.2V.

Here is what Okashira sent me:

you may have the voltage of the Model S cells misunderstood. They are ~4.18V fully charged.

 

[warrah]

This is absolutely incorrect! The cells from the Tesla are exactly the same fully charged voltage as lipo etc, 4.2v. 22s is the absolute highest you should configure your pack, however if you have 100 cells I would highly recommend you go 20s5p to make the most of your purchase. You will be limited by the battery size with regards to maximum power to approximately 75amps and ~6kw. As such configuring for a higher voltage is not going to give you any advantage over 20s or 84v fully charged.

apologies, i thought 3.3v was very odd for 18650 tesla cells, but went with the numbers scfoster supplied. Sorry scfoster for not double checking.

 

[Jonboy]

Hi Guys, anyone know of a source for 7 core cable for the halls & temp plug / socket for my max E ?

Thx

Jon

 

[striker54]

Hi Guys, anyone know of a source for 7 core cable for the halls & temp plug / socket for my max E ?

Thx

Jon

utp shielded multi core

 

[Jonboy]

argh!! good thinking.. I think 26 gauge is the norm but i'm sure 24 is available, thinkin it'll be a bit more durable... I'll have a sniff around!

Good call

Thanks

 

[bowlofsalad]

Has anyone ever added an external switch to change between power profiles? I am so accustom to using a 3 speed switch.

 

[fsmuggen]

I have buildt my pack with both 22 and 20cell option. I tested both setups. And Ill go for the 20 cell. Controller is limiting until voltage is around 80 to 85v and temp on motor is significantly higer on 22 cell. Max power is allso less with 22. My recomendation is to go for 20 cell when cells are 4.2v

 

[ridethelightning]

on my fully charged 22s,~90v, i doubt im getting much limiting

i think the older firmware may not limit in this case.

Has anyone ever added an external switch to change between power profiles? I am so accustom to using a 3 speed switch.

just press the up botton on display. how much more external do you need?

 

[Offroader]

Has anyone noticed that the Normal power mode limits phase amps to 261 and the boost limits it to around 340.

Why would adappto do this?

I personally don't like this because I want to make the normal setting to be the setting I use most of the time and have max phase amps, and the boost setting to also have max phase amps but with a much higher battery amp.

Now I'm always stuck on keeping it on boost to max out the phase amps, as 261 just won't cut it.

I can understand adaptto having an overall limit on the phase amps, but why put a smaller limit on the normal setting. I would like to have boost for those times when I need all the power I can get and need it fast.

I already know some of you are probably thinking with all the complaining I do about the phase amp limits why don't I just unlock the controller. I really hope unlocking it will allow me to set the phase amps to how much I want in all of the power modes.

 

[madin88]

Has anyone ever added an external switch to change between power profiles? I am so accustom to using a 3 speed switch.

i plan to do this. will mount it on a little metal sheet together with the brake lever bolt.
though, from what i know from the CA these foil switches probabaly will be very high ohmic so i believe it should be real waterproof to prevent from malfunction if it gets wet.

 

[bowlofsalad]

Has anyone ever added an external switch to change between power profiles? I am so accustom to using a 3 speed switch.

just press the up botton on display. how much more external do you need?

Haha, yes, of course. The issue is I keep displays at my feet, very difficult to reach, especially when the bike is in motion. I ride primarily recumbent bicycles with handlebars located under the seat.

But even if the display was kept on handlebars close at hand, being able to flip a switch without taking a hand off the grip is so nice, wildly better, faster, and safer.

i plan to do this. will mount it on a little metal sheet together with the brake lever bolt.
though, from what i know from the CA these foil switches probabaly will be very high ohmic so i believe it should be real waterproof to prevent from malfunction if it gets wet.

I'd appreciate it if you shared lots on how you perform this modification when you do. I was surprised when I learned that this wasn't a standard thing or even an option on adaptto, even the cheapo S-LCD3 includes an external switch. Thanks.

 

[madin88]

I'd appreciate it if you shared lots on how you perform this modification when you do. I was surprised when I learned that this wasn't a standard thing or even an option on adaptto, even the cheapo S-LCD3 includes an external switch. Thanks.

haha yes adaptto defintely should put an external switch (or joystick) on the to-do list. i have thought of using such switch panel from cheap ebike lcd or something similar, but most i have seen only have 3 buttons which is not nice.
either all 5 or only 1 for changing profiles IMO.

 

[Allex]

You could probably adapt the 5button panel that comes with bafang bbs drives

 

[lennovich]

Hello ,

Anyone tried the Pas already? How can i turn this thing on? I mounted the sensor and all connected. But I can not find any programming for this...In eco mode the throttle worked as before but that is not what i want with a pas...