ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
in that case i would be interested to see also 
Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
Brake
100 W
Me too.
for me it would be more interesting to see whats inside. i guess FET's are the same, so maybe adaptto only have changed the power stage, added better capacitors and / or additional ceramic types (like doctorbass and myself did) and upped the current in the firmware. doc will have one soon in his hands from what i know. would ne great if he has time to take it apart and make things clear.
MurderousFrog
100 mW
Hey guys, I have a problem with my Adaptto MINI-E, mabye somebody could help me. I already searched the forum but I couldn't seem to find a solution to my problem on ES.
I already did 50km with my mini, and everything ran beautifully. I parked the bike for 2 days in a spot where I am 100% sure nobody messed with it. After turning the bike on again and riding for ~200 meters without any issues, suddenly the throttle cut out when I was trying to accelerate from a still stand with ~2-3kw and the adaptto displayed the !HALLS! error message.
My heart sank, but after a second or so, the screen returned to normal and the throttle worked just as good again. Riding home this happened another 5-10 times, but becoming more frequent. In the end I could barely drive anymore because every other second (accelerating with only 200w or so) the throttle cut out and the halls error was displaying again.
I have seperate motor phase and sensor cables, with a shielded one for the sensors, although I didn't ground the isolation to the bike frame.
I did a few autodetect cycles (without any hall-errors) and now the motor runs better, but when I tried the bike out on the road, It showed a halls error again for a second, this time when I released the throttle after acceleration. The motor did not cut out, strangely.
Another thing: In the adaptto health screen the order of the halls is fine and the bits all behave as they should.
Any ideas what the issue could be?
I already did 50km with my mini, and everything ran beautifully. I parked the bike for 2 days in a spot where I am 100% sure nobody messed with it. After turning the bike on again and riding for ~200 meters without any issues, suddenly the throttle cut out when I was trying to accelerate from a still stand with ~2-3kw and the adaptto displayed the !HALLS! error message.
My heart sank, but after a second or so, the screen returned to normal and the throttle worked just as good again. Riding home this happened another 5-10 times, but becoming more frequent. In the end I could barely drive anymore because every other second (accelerating with only 200w or so) the throttle cut out and the halls error was displaying again.
I have seperate motor phase and sensor cables, with a shielded one for the sensors, although I didn't ground the isolation to the bike frame.
I did a few autodetect cycles (without any hall-errors) and now the motor runs better, but when I tried the bike out on the road, It showed a halls error again for a second, this time when I released the throttle after acceleration. The motor did not cut out, strangely.
Another thing: In the adaptto health screen the order of the halls is fine and the bits all behave as they should.
Any ideas what the issue could be?
Wheazel
10 kW
To me it sounds like a bad connection, or some component that is glitchy. Can a hallsensor act like that if its about to break down is the the question...
Otherwise I am thinking the wiring or solderconnections in the waterproof connectors. Checked that?
Otherwise I am thinking the wiring or solderconnections in the waterproof connectors. Checked that?
MurderousFrog
100 mW
Thanks guys, I checked all the connections and they seem fine, tested them with a multimeter.
Checked the individual hall voltages as well, they jump from 0 to 4.12V and back, which means they work, right?
So I guess I'll order some halls and swap 'em out just to be sure. I still had the original ones from crystalyte in there.
It just seems weird to me that the problem started occuring after not touching the bike for 2 days, although it worked fine before...
Checked the individual hall voltages as well, they jump from 0 to 4.12V and back, which means they work, right?
So I guess I'll order some halls and swap 'em out just to be sure. I still had the original ones from crystalyte in there.
It just seems weird to me that the problem started occuring after not touching the bike for 2 days, although it worked fine before...
skWarDog
100 W
I had the same problems almost exactly as you're describing with my Clyte 40110 motor. The Adaptto diagnostic screen showed my halls working fine, also..... I replaced the stock Clyte halls with Honeywell SS-41's, problem solved! It seems to me the Adaptto controller doesn't play nice with Clyte motors!? Did you experience any "drag" when accelerating from a standstill? That's how my problem started....MurderousFrog said:
Allex
100 MW
Could be moisture in the system(controller) as well?
MurderousFrog
100 mW
skWarDog said:
I ordered some SS411's and will replace the old halls in the motor soon.
Allex said:
At the time where this happened, the weather here was very dry. However it might be condesation from the warm controller?
How do I open the adaptto, just remove the two screws on the left and right side of the top and pull out the plastic end caps?
Another thing concerning the adaptto: I can't seem to set a master passsword successfully. After I enter the password the first time, then the confirmation and press the "back" button, it just goes back into the menu. When I restart the controller it just starts up without password.
I,m set on buying one of the new v2 units, reading this thread I see lots of problems. Being a forum often u often get people showing up with problems. I'd be interested in hearing how many are having no problems at all and highly recommend them. I know there's lots out there, I suspect we are looking at a 1% to 3% failure rate ?
Boestin
100 W
sn0wchyld
100 kW
Boestin said:Finally, the Cro is working!! I replaced the halls with Honeywells SS41... 16,5KW with stock Adaptto
love to see a vid mate... particularly of a hard launch
Boestin
100 W
Yes I am planning to do that. Unfortunately the gopro is broke and I am waiting for the warranty return.
Bluefang
10 kW
Found the issue with my controller that was causing the random pauses was the BMS in my case. All the batteries indicate fine but if I sit and watch the actual BMS screen which shows 4 rows of 4cells with the exact voltage i can see one of the rows "fail" around the same frequency of the cutouts. These cutouts do not show a BMS error on the main screen when riding tho. Anyone have any suggestions on a fix for this or is it a case of getting a new BMS board.
Dissabling the BMS for normal use seems to work well tho, they are Samsung 25r cells so I should be able to run it for a few weeks without needing to balance it.
Dissabling the BMS for normal use seems to work well tho, they are Samsung 25r cells so I should be able to run it for a few weeks without needing to balance it.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
thats great news bluefang.
sending a bms to russia for replacement has got to be better than sending a max-e
I have found the 20r cells to pretty much just stay ballenced anyway, so occasionally connecting the bms to ballence charge sounds like the go to me.
In theory they should replace the bms for free as its obviously faulty.
one fix could be to reconfig the boards to skip the board that is mis-behaving. its simple enough, just go into the bms setup menue, >cell board config... leave the dodgy board empty and skip to the next board along.(assuming you have the full 24 or 28s bms board so there are some spare?)
if not, you can patch in a "split off board" from another bms too
sending a bms to russia for replacement has got to be better than sending a max-e
I have found the 20r cells to pretty much just stay ballenced anyway, so occasionally connecting the bms to ballence charge sounds like the go to me.
In theory they should replace the bms for free as its obviously faulty.
one fix could be to reconfig the boards to skip the board that is mis-behaving. its simple enough, just go into the bms setup menue, >cell board config... leave the dodgy board empty and skip to the next board along.(assuming you have the full 24 or 28s bms board so there are some spare?)
if not, you can patch in a "split off board" from another bms too
Allex
100 MW
Sometimes theres is poor connection on those balancing connectors that goes from the pack, this can cause similar symtomps. Check your connectors and replace/tighten them
Boestin said:Finally, the Cro is working!! I replaced the halls with Honeywells SS41... 16,5KW with stock Adaptto
be careful there - the rear wheel is only radially laced... and will not last long if you continue to put that much power through it. Needs to be laced with a cross pattern for it to be structurally strong enough.
check your spokes carefully before you ride again.
Bluefang
10 kW
all my connections are soldiered as it was a pack built from 18650 cells, so no simple move connections I ll stick to just using the BMS every few weeks.
I ll stick to just using the BMS every few weeks.
Allex
100 MW
If you are getting !HALLS! after hard acceleration / regen this can be caused by emf generated in the phase wire transferring over to the phase sensor wires, the way I got round this as to use shielded cable on the phase sensor wires, you could also try wrapping the cable round a toroid bead if you don't want to shield the whole thing.
Bluefang
10 kW
I hate dodgy connections from those JST connectors, so yes i soldered them. did not take long and was meant to be a permanent solution seeing as usually once i get a bike up and running I never want to have to work on it asside from normal bike wear and tear. I love electronics just cause they usually last years without been touched.
On a side note the bike is working well, cept its a high speed wind cro motor and its barely making it to 85km/h and the controller is getting hot but the motor is staying <50c. I am guessing this is a programing issue? So i have to play with the settings alot more. Its abit weird tho as I used the same settings on my other highspeed cromotor bike with the same batteries and complete setup with no issues of heat or anything.
On a side note the bike is working well, cept its a high speed wind cro motor and its barely making it to 85km/h and the controller is getting hot but the motor is staying <50c. I am guessing this is a programing issue? So i have to play with the settings alot more. Its abit weird tho as I used the same settings on my other highspeed cromotor bike with the same batteries and complete setup with no issues of heat or anything.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
I had similar heat issues when i added another 2s to my pack and forgot to re-do autodetect - high controller temps really fast.
definately sounds like a settings issue. maybe ind timing ?
i have plans to solder my bms wires direct too as i also hate the jst plugs. I think doctorbass did a fine job of it on his nyx.
id rather have the ballence plugs(of my own choosing) on the packs themselves if I want to disconnect them..
definately sounds like a settings issue. maybe ind timing ?
i have plans to solder my bms wires direct too as i also hate the jst plugs. I think doctorbass did a fine job of it on his nyx.
id rather have the ballence plugs(of my own choosing) on the packs themselves if I want to disconnect them..
Adaptto E-Drives Lab
100 W
Hello!
If anyone is going to attend the Interbike 2015 this month or just visit Las Vegas DO NOT miss the chance to meet us on this amazing event.
Good luck!
http://www.interbike.com/
If anyone is going to attend the Interbike 2015 this month or just visit Las Vegas DO NOT miss the chance to meet us on this amazing event.
Good luck!
http://www.interbike.com/
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