joe535 said:Allex said:Welcome!
If you have one with ON/off option, make sure that you connect those bare wires together to turn the controller. You only need the display connected to get it working.
Thanks, that's it
One more question: I have just read that regenerative breaking will also work with a hall
sensor mounted at the brake-lever... Is that true? If yes, I assume the description of the wiring diagram
is not correct as it says "brake button or speed sensor"..
I think it means "hall sensor" ??
If yes, could somebody post the correct wiring? I would prefer an adaptive breaking rather than
just "on off"..
And before I forget, can I use any PAS and/or Throttle ??
Thanks,
Joerg
Allex said:Guessing that you will use it for your QS
This will sound a bit ironic but, yes you'll lose the warranty then.
That's a great idea!roadrash said:I want to figure out a way to put a bar around it so if the bike ever tips over or i crash it wont get busted.
Maybe something like this
Cowardlyduck said:That's a great idea!roadrash said:I want to figure out a way to put a bar around it so if the bike ever tips over or i crash it wont get busted.
Maybe something like this
In my case, the curve and rise of my bars is just enough so that when I flip my bike upside-down the display is just (about 1mm) off the ground, but it was a concern for me at first.
Cheers
I'm having trouble visualising what you mean. The mounts for the display will only mount to the handle bars due to the horizontal positioning. It would be great if you could rotate the mount 90 degrees to mount to the stem though.ccmdr said:@ Cowardlyduck
As for the bar mount protector, if you've room try mounting it to the handlebar stem. With a 100mm stem you can give the bars a flush appearance and a slighly more stealthy look. Plus night time riding doesn't illuminate your entire body giving away the electric eerie look, even with dim backlight settings.
Not with the display mounted. I'll try and remember to grab a photo when I get round to mounting it again in the next few weeks.roadrash said:Do you happen to have a pic of your bars so i can get an idea of how much rise is needed ?
roadrash said:Allex said:Guessing that you will use it for your QS
This will sound a bit ironic but, yes you'll lose the warranty then.
Yep i will be using it on the QS
Can someone do me a favor and measure from the handlebar to the top of the display ?
I want to figure out a way to put a bar around it so if the bike ever tips over or i crash it wont get busted.
Bluefang said:what i ended up having to do once i had a basic good tune is run the motor up at the speed where it starts to oscillate and then adjust the ang corr until it disappeared allowing higher speeds. Then once that was done I adjusted the Ind timing by keeping it up at 3/4 speed and adjusted until i had the lowest power consumption. So far tuning like that has worked really well for me.
ElectroRider said:Bluefang said:what i ended up having to do once i had a basic good tune is run the motor up at the speed where it starts to oscillate and then adjust the ang corr until it disappeared allowing higher speeds. Then once that was done I adjusted the Ind timing by keeping it up at 3/4 speed and adjusted until i had the lowest power consumption. So far tuning like that has worked really well for me.
Thanks for sharing your method of tuning, it worked for me as well!
Thanks.Allex said:Normally you would want to set you phase amps higher than Infineon controllers to get some torque.
Thanks for the help.Ohbse said:You sure you haven't set any acceleration limit on the boost profile? Mines hitting 6.7kw every day with some additional cooling for peace of mind, feels pretty good