Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[brumbrum]

You need to try with another set of halls first.
Then of course you need to hold the throttle at WOT

Thanks Allex.

Well i just noticed that in the advanced setup the halls offset was set to 180 degrees, so i changed it to 120, and also changed the wire reverse from 'yes' to 'no'....Do these values make more sense? They do to me.

Only with both of these values changed do i now get a slow forward moving wheel during the autodect sequence, although it is quite rough. Is this normal? I held the throttle for about 30 seconds and then had doubts and gave up.

I need a bit of encouragement here guys. Does the motor ALWAYS run smoothly during the autodetect?

 

[madin88]

Well i just noticed that in the advanced setup the halls offset was set to 180 degrees, so i changed it to 120, and also changed the wire reverse from 'yes' to 'no'....Do these values make more sense? They do to me.

don't touch these settings after autodetect. it has nothing to do with the FIXED 120° position of the halls.

try the following things:
swap phase wires, apply the brake slightly during the first step of autodetect, twisting the wheel by hand before you apply throttle may also help (at least to me it seems it did in).

it might well be that it takes 5 tries or more until autodetect works how it should, or if you have luck it could work at the first attempt.

 

[Allex]

Please hold the throttle untill the whole sequence is ready! You will get a notification on the display about that after about a minute or two, during detect phase it will of course sound rough

 

[bigbore]

This is what I had during autodetect:
[youtube]Lf1vZ3htZjs[/youtube]

Edit: This first time I stopped the procedure because I forgot to set OVS to 0°, then restarted and finished autodetec.

 

[brumbrum]

Ok, silly question, do i enter the screen which has the 'wheel suspended.......' Messsage to do the autodetect, or just stay on the setup screen with the word autodetect on it.

 

[bigbore]

Setup 1/4, go to autodetect line, press right arrow and you enter in the screen where it says "Suspend the wheel etc..." , now you will turn the Throttle WOT

 

[brumbrum]

Setup 1/4, go to autodetect line, press right arrow and you enter in the screen where it says "Suspend the wheel etc..." , now you will turn the Throttle WOT

Well, that is the first place where i have gone wrong lol i have been trying fire up my motor on the wrong screen. Oh, i hope i havent damaged it.

Now (in the correct screen) it has an 'interrupted by throttle' message when i twist the throttle.

Apologies for being an idiot, at least i can admit to it :wink:

 

[Allex]

I hope you did calibrate your throttle first before doing motor calibration =)

 

[brumbrum]

I hope you did calibrate your throttle first before doing motor calibration =)

Yes, calibrated throttle and found that the throttle error message was from the hall sensor on the brake.

 

[BCTECH]

this is from my display.

does anyone know if the PCB of the display is always the same? I am trying to figuring out the pin assignment.
Adaptto told me that they are not sure, and they only reply one question/email a day which is very slow.
my PCB has no marking of TX, 12V, GND and RX like above. so I don't know which color wire is which
Anyone know the Pin 1-4 is which TX, 12V, GND and RX ?
Below is my display

 

[ridethelightning]

Setup 1/4, go to autodetect line, press right arrow and you enter in the screen where it says "Suspend the wheel etc..." , now you will turn the Throttle WOT

Well, that is the first place where i have gone wrong lol i have been trying fire up my motor on the wrong screen. Oh, i hope i havent damaged it.

Now (in the correct screen) it has an 'interrupted by throttle' message when i twist the throttle.

Apologies for being an idiot, at least i can admit to it :wink:

I bet the sound of the wheel finally spinning up smooth was music to your ears. :lol:

great to hear you got it sorted. now comes the fun part...tuning the advanced settings for best perforance

 

[brumbrum]

Setup 1/4, go to autodetect line, press right arrow and you enter in the screen where it says "Suspend the wheel etc..." , now you will turn the Throttle WOT

Well, that is the first place where i have gone wrong lol i have been trying fire up my motor on the wrong screen. Oh, i hope i havent damaged it.

Now (in the correct screen) it has an 'interrupted by throttle' message when i twist the throttle.

Apologies for being an idiot, at least i can admit to it :wink:

I bet the sound of the wheel finally spinning up smooth was music to your ears. :lol:

great to hear you got it sorted. now comes the fun part...tuning the advanced settings for best perforance

Hiya buddy, not good news i'm afraid to say :?

Sorted through all the problems and finally did a proper autodetect late last night. The wheel did exactly what it should. It jolted forward 4 or 5 times and then began spinning slowly for about a minute, then it very very ripidly went to a mental fast speed and jammed! There was a small puff of smoke from where my connectors are and i quickly switch it all off.

I turned it back on again and there is a throttle error on the opening screen. I am wondering whether the hall sensor on the brake lever moved and the regen brake activated. Beforehand it was giving some very odd movements in the calibration screen. I had to walk away from it all at that point. I unplugged a few connectors and could not see any scorches or markings, but i still need to unplug the ip68 connectors to check them.
It could not have been much worse.

I will remove the brake hall sensor today and check connectors and see what i find. I feel like throwing it all in the bin at the moment.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

hey Brumbrum, double check you didn't swap the negative battery lead from the controller for the charge coil lead.
The first time I did that it went crazy fast like you say, before I also got the puff of smoke from the controller which ultimately killed the power board fets.

Cheers

 

[Cowardlyduck]

To help out BCTECH after a PM I cracked out my old connectors to match up the Pin assignment on the display connectors. Hopefully this can help out others also.

I don't know if Adaptto are still doing it, but on my Adaptto for some reason they used different colours on both ends of the connector making it very difficult to match up if you remove them without first noting which is what.

The connector on the right in the photo above has the Pin assignment as follows:
1=Yellow
2=Red
3=Brown
4=White

The connector on the left is:
1=Orange
2=Red
3=Black
4=Brown

Hopefull Adaptto don't do this anymore...it really is bad practice and doesn't make any sense. :x

Cheers

 

[BCTECH]

To help out BCTECH after a PM I cracked out my old connectors to match up the Pin assignment on the display connectors. Hopefully this can help out others also.

I don't know if Adaptto are still doing it, but on my Adaptto for some reason they used different colours on both ends of the connector making it very difficult to match up if you remove them without first noting which is what.

The connector on the right in the photo above has the Pin assignment as follows:
1=Yellow
2=Red
3=Brown
4=White

The connector on the left is:
1=Orange
2=Red
3=Black
4=Brown

Hopefull Adaptto don't do this anymore...it really is bad practice and doesn't make any sense. :x

Cheers

Thank you so much!
I cross reference and this looks pretty correct

my display wire lost connection and I thought just 4 pin connector that I could easily trace from my controller's connection to match.
I ended up same situation as you. Lucky that you still have the photo which really helps

 

[brumbrum]

hey Brumbrum, double check you didn't swap the negative battery lead from the controller for the charge coil lead.
The first time I did that it went crazy fast like you say, before I also got the puff of smoke from the controller which ultimately killed the power board fets.

Cheers

Thanks for the heads up, but definitely did not do that. The charging connector is bright yellow, it was not plugged into anything.

 

[ccmdr]

Alright, Brum. Sounds like you're having very much similar experiences with Adaptto/Cro guessing V3 as I did. Autodetect 1:5 works, but then not properly comparing it to the HS3540 on the other bike.

Once you've checked from where your smoke damage came from, I'd highly recommend not bothering with Autodetect and do a manual setup. It's a little bit more faffing, but if you get bored and try the Autodetect again it'll likely sod all your hard work up. I've foolishly 'thought' it would be a good idea.. twice. Btw my Cro stopped abruptly at speed too, hall wire came loose n shorted, instant RMA .

If you insist on running Autodetect, the 'best' method for a 1:5 chance of a 'rough' detect, stop your hub rotating for first 5-10 secs where it appears to set hall phase sequence, ensure you set your maximum speed (in eco/norm/boost para) to 85% ish of your estimated freewheel speed. This should stop the motor going bonkers towards the end. You'll still need to fine tune the hall angles and hall/motor response time.

Its a great time saving tool, however it isn't something you 'need' to do, just input settings manually once the hub is rotating in the correct direction .

Edit- As for hall watching although 001-111 etc try looking at the H1-6 instead for correct hall sequencing.

Madin8 - C63 are for overcurrent protection, for example my A123 20ah could go 10C = 200amps on the poor little Mini-E that can only take 65ish Amp. Instead of blowing up a controller on fault the breaker will trip and save primarily 'me'the user from a thumping great belt . Reason for spark is an immediate in-rush demand from the controller, anti-spark kinda trickle feeds the caps instead of dumping it in a oner. Hence if you leave batt connected all the time caps are charged n waiting for fets to allow them to dump their load .

Nother Edit - Mini-E has x1 63a breaker coz max batt demand is 60-65A constant'ish and Max-E has x2 coz 160a max batt constant'ish, however it'd be interesting to see a MAX-E pull 160amps for more than the few seconds it takes to trip the x2 breakers .

 

[Allex]

My runs were 30-90seconds at 20s 160 amps with one ABB c63 breaker without issues. The videos I took did use that setup.

 

[ridethelightning]

hey Brumbrum, double check you didn't swap the negative battery lead from the controller for the charge coil lead.
The first time I did that it went crazy fast like you say, before I also got the puff of smoke from the controller which ultimately killed the power board fets.

Cheers

Thanks for the heads up, but definitely did not do that. The charging connector is bright yellow, it was not plugged into anything.

by the sounds, id suspect poor hall installation at the cro factory, or possibly temp sensor, causing a short when the wheel went to high speed.
i say this because it sounds like everything on the controller side was working ok until whatever it was came loose in the motor(just my speculation from experience with badly glued components in cromotors)

it would be very worthwhile at this point to open the motor to check for shorts/loose components there. although you could also check from outside with a meter to some extent, check for shorts across all the pins/phases on motot and controller side(although phase will show continuity between each other)
a 6",3 jaw puller is your best friend :wink:

i would think it to be less likely caused by the brake hall sensor cause the brake/throttle signals should be automatically blocked during autodetect anyway.

 

[brumbrum]

Wow, thanks for all the support. That is a lot of stuff to get through. I may start by disconecting the temp sensor wires and then try my spare set of hall wires. But as yet i have no idea where the little puff of smoke came from. It appeared inside the nyx frame rising from the connectors which are directly above the controller box. The controller box has had liquid electrical tape put around the outside of all the seals, so i am not sure how it could have come from inside the controller, but at present i cannot find any burns or scorches on connectors , i will look into it. I have not been able to face it since the 'incident'

I will post up any findings later today.

Cheers folks
Andrew

 

[brumbrum]

I snipped off the hall sensor for the brake and the throttle error on the opening page of the display has now disappeared, so thats a good thing.
Hall signals are all reading the same as before, so thats a good thing. Battery readings all good too.

 

[ozman]

I snipped off the hall sensor for the brake and the throttle error on the opening page of the display has now disappeared, so thats a good thing.
Hall signals are all reading the same as before, so thats a good thing. Battery readings all good too.

I got my fingers crossed for you good luck hope all works out

 

[brumbrum]

I want to try another autodetect, but would like to reset all parameters and start afresh

Whats the best way to put everything back to factory settings? Do i use the reset in the advanced section? Or is that a bad idea. I am treading very carefully at the moment.

 

[ridethelightning]

prob. not much to gain from a reset.

id just get the phase combo done with autodetect and then start manual tuning in advanced settings, using the settings i posted above for a start.

id leave it in eco till its running smooth, use only low throttle.

then turn it up a bit when it sounds really smooth and silent.

make sure you dont have anything connected to coil/phases/neg charge lead for charging. thats how you smoke a controller bigtime.

be careful. it could be something intermittent that only comes into contact when the motor spins violently. id be having a REALLY good look at anything that might cause a short first.

 

[gensem]

Has anyone noticed there is a new firmware (04/05/2016) available?
The max-e link is broken but the mini-e is there.
Anyone has access to the full change log?