Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

douglashart said:
Ive just re-readjusted things on the bike including replacing the halls cable to the motor. Now I have ' halls error' . I'm pretty sure that when I bent those little solder connections around a tight corner that I probably opened one up, but, while the bike was contorted in every direction ive cracked the throttle housing and possibly pulled on those connections. My question is: does the 'halls error' apply only to the motor halls or could a bad throttle also be the cause? thnx

halls error 1 is generally a broken connection or hal sensor.
throttle error would be THR!
so, no i dont think its throttle.
 
Guys, this is my first post in this thread as I am a new adaptto owner. I am currently wiring up a maxe to a crow motor v3 on a Qulbix q76r and just want to make 100% sure I don't stuff it up. I have a question with which xt150 terminal I need to wire the negative from the coil to on the maxe. I am 99%sure it's the one shown in below photo with the yellow heatshrink. Any comment before I try to burn my garage down?
 

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Hey guys, i connected adaptto to battery and got !HALLS! after turning on. Is it standard or does it means something bad? There is no word about this error in user manual.
I haven't connected my motor yet but i know that controller has been used (i bought 2hand).

Another thing is USB port. I connected bike light (solarstorm x2 clone) and it really struggles, display brightness dims when light is turned on and on the max power level the backlight is barely visible. Text is normal.
Is it standard with this controller? Even my laptop with 500mA port works with this light very well.
 
atomek1000 - !Halls! error is either:

Motor halls cable disconnected
Motor hall U/S
Motor hall cable U/S
Motor hall cable shorted - likely blown hall to go with cable repair
Throttle/Brake/PAS incorrect wiring

If all that is known 'S' then you've likely blown the resistor.

Your motor isn't connected as you say, so !Halls! will be visable. Set controller to 'Sensorless' mode and if the rest is wired correctly !halls! should disappear. Just remember to put it back in Sine or Auto.

The USB on the Adaptto is USB 1.x or 2, can't remember which. So thats 5v and 0.5A Max. Even then you don't want to draw that much as it's piggy-backed from the display.
 
ccmdr said:
The USB on the Adaptto is USB 1.x or 2, can't remember which. So thats 5v and 0.5A Max. Even then you don't want to draw that much as it's piggy-backed from the display.

thats not really what Oleg from adaptto told me, but i cannot speak from experience

oleg from adaptto said:
Dear Gernot,
The USB port provides approximately 1-2 Amps, not more.
Best regards,

But what i know about the solarstorm is that it uses 8,4 volt with max of 2,5 Amps, so "bucked up" from 5 Volt, what you probably do? right,
it's more than 3 Amps, thats absolutely not what the usb-port is able to deliver.

do you experience any power- slumps of the controller when having the light on?, that s was a problem people told in the past?

notger
 
My controller is ok, the switch key was broken.. but now i have some errors like halls error 2! I've tryed to keep the +5v from usb port and now the problem is halls error 1 when i do the autodetect. What could it be? Resistor broken? My new cromotr v3 are good and all the sensors looks good. I've tryed with +5v on the positive halls and the multimeter on black cable, and all the halls return to me with about 3.6v
 
Dibul said:
My controller is ok, the switch key was broken.. but now i have some errors like halls error 2! I've tryed to keep the +5v from usb port and now the problem is halls error 1 when i do the autodetect. What could it be? Resistor broken? My new cromotr v3 are good and all the sensors looks good. I've tryed with +5v on the positive halls and the multimeter on black cable, and all the halls return to me with about 3.6v

Are the hall wires in the correct order? Look on the health monitor page on your dispaly and see if the hall numbers move from 1 through to 6 in order. Roll your wheel/motor forward by 1 or 2cm to see the numbers change... 1,2,3,4,5,6
 
Dibul - Brum has had very similar issues and that also includes most of us with the 'original' Cro V3 (not QS).

I'd highly suggest as with others thinking of using 'Cromotor V3' with an Adaptto product to:

A) Check the halls are actually soldered inside the Cromotor (heatshrink will hide cables loosely wrapped around eachother...).
B) Only do a semi autodetect i.e just get the phase sequence sorted (first 5-10 seconds) then do a complete manual setup as explained in the manual.

If you don't, it's very likely you'll be sending your Adaptto back and although it's a quick turn around/fix from the guys at Adaptto it'll extend your project time by 2-3 weeks.

Once it's all setup the grin factor is amazing, but try to take the 'easy' autodetect route and you'll likely be cussing as the motor spins out of control then abruptly stops...

If you've already experienced the abrupt stop in autodetect I'd be looking at sending it back if it's still under warrenty, otherwise start looking up the resistor replacement :).
 
Quick question: what kind of speeds are people seeing from the adaptto maxe after autodetect (or manual tune) on an unloaded wide open throttle? With what voltage too.
Cheers
Andrew.
 
brumbrum said:
Quick question: what kind of speeds are people seeing from the adaptto maxe after autodetect (or manual tune) on an unloaded wide open throttle? With what voltage too.
Cheers
Andrew.
with ovs or not? 8)

with ovs 5 i get well over 100kph, 120 praps.(22s, qs/cro 9kv)
without i think its ~90kph
 
Hi guys,

again I am facing some problems with my Mini-E, partly concerning the throttle.

After I have fixed the problem with my Domino throttle I realized that I have also an issue with saving the throttle limits. I can adjust the settings without any problems and they work well as long as the controller is switched on. But as soon as I switch it off and on the throttle limits are set back to the default values (1.2 V and 3.8 V). All other settings remain stored, only the throttle limits are discarded. Another abnormality is that when I am leaving the setup menu I am only asked sometimes if I want to save the settings. Most of the time the controller does not ask but all the settings are saved though. Has anybody had these problems?

I tried to fix this problems by upgrading to a later firmware version but this is a problem itself. I bought a new 2 GB SD-Card and formatted it (NTFS). Then I started the Adaptto 'Utility' to copy the new firmware onto the SD-Card. I only get various messages (maybe error messages) which I cannot read because they are written in russian language. And because you cannot copy them it is not possible to translate them. When I put the prepared SD-Card into the slot of the display I got 2 messages (I tested it twice, each time with a newly prepared SD-Card) after I started the upgrading process. The first one was 'CRC error' (don't know what this means) and the second one 'SD-Card is empty' (which is quiet obvious even for a jerk like me). Any suggestions how to upgrade my controller?

Thanks in advance!
 
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=943487&hilit=2r2+resistor+adaptto#p943487


do you have open your motor ?
if you open your motor make please a Pic, quality of windings
 
brooklands said:
Hi guys,

again I am facing some problems with my Mini-E, partly concerning the throttle.

After I have fixed the problem with my Domino throttle I realized that I have also an issue with saving the throttle limits. I can adjust the settings without any problems and they work well as long as the controller is switched on. But as soon as I switch it off and on the throttle limits are set back to the default values (1.2 V and 3.8 V). All other settings remain stored, only the throttle limits are discarded. Another abnormality is that when I am leaving the setup menu I am only asked sometimes if I want to save the settings. Most of the time the controller does not ask but all the settings are saved though. Has anybody had these problems, not

I tried to fix this problems by upgrading to a later firmware version but this is a problem itself. I bought a new 2 GB SD-Card and formatted it (NTFS). Then I started the Adaptto 'Utility' to copy the new firmware onto the SD-Card. I only get various messages (maybe error messages) which I cannot read because they are written in russian language. And because you cannot copy them it is not possible to translate them. When I put the prepared SD-Card into the slot of the display I got 2 messages (I tested it twice, each time with a newly prepared SD-Card) after I started the upgrading process. The first one was 'CRC error' (don't know what this means) and the second one 'SD-Card is empty' (which is quiet obvious even for a jerk like me). Any suggestions how to upgrade my controller?

Thanks in advance!

You must format your card in FAT, not NTFS
 
I have a Mini-E "4kW" controller. It only can do max 56A at 45V, so this is 2.5kW. I measured current with my own ammeter to verify adaptto was reporting correct current.

Anybody else have this problem w/their "4kW" controller. It's over promising and under-delivering.
 
that1guy said:
I have a Mini-E "4kW" controller. It only can do max 56A at 45V, so this is 2.5kW. I measured current with my own ammeter to verify adaptto was reporting correct current.

Anybody else have this problem w/their "4kW" controller. It's over promising and under-delivering.

Someone from Adaptto will probably respond, but I think you would achieve the expected 4kW if your pack voltage was higher, say 72V, then 56A x 72V would give 4kW. To get 4kW at 45V would require nearly 90A, current is the first limitation in these devices. And the Mini-E does surge higher than 56A, coz I get a brief peak of about 3700W on the stock Stealth Fighter pack at around 52V, thats about 70A. Yeah, is the 4kW peak or continuous ?

I think p'raps the OP-UD tag may be a little harsh

JB
 
ccmdr said:
Dibul - Brum has had very similar issues and that also includes most of us with the 'original' Cro V3 (not QS).

I'd highly suggest as with others thinking of using 'Cromotor V3' with an Adaptto product to:

A) Check the halls are actually soldered inside the Cromotor (heatshrink will hide cables loosely wrapped around eachother...).
B) Only do a semi autodetect i.e just get the phase sequence sorted (first 5-10 seconds) then do a complete manual setup as explained in the manual.

If you don't, it's very likely you'll be sending your Adaptto back and although it's a quick turn around/fix from the guys at Adaptto it'll extend your project time by 2-3 weeks.

Once it's all setup the grin factor is amazing, but try to take the 'easy' autodetect route and you'll likely be cussing as the motor spins out of control then abruptly stops...

If you've already experienced the abrupt stop in autodetect I'd be looking at sending it back if it's still under warrenty, otherwise start looking up the resistor replacement :).


I'm very soon due to set up my lads raptor with a max e / cro v3 combo I'm a bit bricking it as I'm aware of what Brum has gone through. I'm temped to open it up and check it out first... Then maybe do the 5-10 second autodetect to get the halls to play then Give Brum a bell to come and manual setup for me... ;)
 
Jonboy said:
ccmdr said:
Dibul - Brum has had very similar issues and that also includes most of us with the 'original' Cro V3 (not QS).

I'd highly suggest as with others thinking of using 'Cromotor V3' with an Adaptto product to:

A) Check the halls are actually soldered inside the Cromotor (heatshrink will hide cables loosely wrapped around eachother...).
B) Only do a semi autodetect i.e just get the phase sequence sorted (first 5-10 seconds) then do a complete manual setup as explained in the manual.

If you don't, it's very likely you'll be sending your Adaptto back and although it's a quick turn around/fix from the guys at Adaptto it'll extend your project time by 2-3 weeks.

Once it's all setup the grin factor is amazing, but try to take the 'easy' autodetect route and you'll likely be cussing as the motor spins out of control then abruptly stops...

If you've already experienced the abrupt stop in autodetect I'd be looking at sending it back if it's still under warrenty, otherwise start looking up the resistor replacement :).


I'm very soon due to set up my lads raptor with a max e / cro v3 combo I'm a bit bricking it as I'm aware of what Brum has gone through. I'm temped to open it up and check it out first... Then maybe do the 5-10 second autodetect to get the halls to play then Give Brum a bell to come and manual setup for me... ;)

Hiya Jon, yes, i am definitely going to be doing a manual setup when my maxe returns. I have been gathering together tips and tricks from the manual and from others on the ES forum. Since having my brief play manually setting up my cro (before sending the controller off to Russia) i am feeling quite confident about fine tuning it.
It is looking like a long wait for me, parcelforce have posted up a message on their website about major delays for all packages to Russia due to custom clearance problems by the Russian authorities. According to my tracking details it is yet still to arrive in Russia/Moscow :cry:
 
Dibul said:
You must format your card in FAT, not NTFS

Unfortunately this does not help. I also tried FAT32 and exFAT. Both with the same result.

Can anybody translate this error message please?

 
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