Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Mammalian04]

Bigbore, do you mean you don't want to change firmware because everything is working well now or that you upgraded and had issues with the domino on later firmware?

 

[Merlin]

Twisting the throttle as low as I can I have about 100-120W in boost mode.
I can ride at 3km/h very easily in eco mode and the power is 80W and I can do the same with some more difficult in boost mode, the power I need is 80W in boost too.
One of the reason why I still use old RC7 Fw is because the Domino works very good.

thx,
so you had the same "problem"
you and me and alot of others drivin those big bikes that we dont care about 100w.

but with a "normal" 25kg bike + a 58kg lightweight rider, 100w is power for 15kph.
eco mode is with PAS, so its only for worst case szenario stopped by cops.

so if you start, you get a 100w "kick".....its everything except of smooth.
coming from sabvoton....big drawback for me, then it looks like it will never be fixed.
maybe not understandable for hot rodders. iam riding alot of time "standing" on my bike. sometimes with one hand, looking back to other riders.
or with my dog etc....riding technical parts in my hilly woods feels not nice with this 100w kick.....

this is another thing i cant get why it isnt fixed.
as you see in the video it doesnt matter if you change the starting voltage. the gap is still there.
i tried yesterday late night a china throttle.....with same result.

maybe my dream come true and adaptto team works with justin together to make the ultimate controlling unit.

i know i am very fastidious about soem things. but if you had allready a BETTER throttle controlling i think it is normal that you feel the difference quick.
like coming from infineon speed throttles to a trq. you never go back.

 

[Merlin]

Some Charging / Heat experience with Eltek 2KW supply

35amps (Peak results)

Charging Wires (3meter)

Controller MID-E Case:

Speakon Connector (Rated for 40a) Frockin Hot....but no damage after charged pack

FETs of MIDI-E

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Anyone have any idea's for my issue? I think it got missed before.

I have a question for everyone:
I recently upped the power after unlocking my firmware and so far it's great. I seem to have a problem during hard acceleration however.
When I go WOT and the ground is smooth, no issues. However when I go WOT and the ground is bumpy, I can feel the power cut momentarily as I hit and for a split second after I hit bumps.
I've tried going through every traction control setting, setting each one to minimums then maximums to see if it would stop, but no luck.

Does anyone, know is there any other settings that can cause a traction control like effect or stuttering during acceleration?

Cheers

 

[GmagNeato]

Anyone have any idea's for my issue? I think it got missed before.

I have a question for everyone:
I recently upped the power after unlocking my firmware and so far it's great. I seem to have a problem during hard acceleration however.
When I go WOT and the ground is smooth, no issues. However when I go WOT and the ground is bumpy, I can feel the power cut momentarily as I hit and for a split second after I hit bumps.
I've tried going through every traction control setting, setting each one to minimums then maximums to see if it would stop, but no luck.

Does anyone, know is there any other settings that can cause a traction control like effect or stuttering during acceleration?

Cheers

Hi CD. When you disable the trk and ls completely does the problem still occur? If it does then this almost sounds like a connection that might be momentarily losing 100% contact on bumpy terrain. Have you checked them all to make sure they're snug? I would probably start with throttle connections. Keep us posted!

 

[bigbore]

Bigbore, do you mean you don't want to change firmware because everything is working well now or that you upgraded and had issues with the domino on later firmware?

Until today everything was good enough to stay with old RC7C firmware and I never changed it since I got the Bomber last year in March. I read about latest firmware issues here on this thread.

Twisting the throttle as low as I can I have about 100-120W in boost mode.
I can ride at 3km/h very easily in eco mode and the power is 80W and I can do the same with some more difficult in boost mode, the power I need is 80W in boost too.
One of the reason why I still use old RC7 Fw is because the Domino works very good.

thx,
so you had the same "problem"
you and me and alot of others drivin those big bikes that we dont care about 100w.

but with a "normal" 25kg bike + a 58kg lightweight rider, 100w is power for 15kph.
eco mode is with PAS, so its only for worst case szenario stopped by cops.

so if you start, you get a 100w "kick".....its everything except of smooth.

In boost mode I don't have the "kick" like you in your video, my start is smoother. If I were you I would try the resistor trick

coming from sabvoton....big drawback for me, then it looks like it will never be fixed.
maybe not understandable for hot rodders. iam riding alot of time "standing" on my bike. sometimes with one hand, looking back to other riders.
or with my dog etc....riding technical parts in my hilly woods feels not nice with this 100w kick.....

this is another thing i cant get why it isnt fixed.
as you see in the video it doesnt matter if you change the starting voltage. the gap is still there.
i tried yesterday late night a china throttle.....with same result.

maybe my dream come true and adaptto team works with justin together to make the ultimate controlling unit.

i know i am very fastidious about soem things. but if you had allready a BETTER throttle controlling i think it is normal that you feel the difference quick.
like coming from infineon speed throttles to a trq. you never go back.

Why did you change the controller from Sabvoton to Adaptto? I saw one of your last video with the Sabvoton controller and it seemed a very good ride. I guess the upgrade is how we can charge the battery with Adaptto?
Where did you get the info about Adaptto team that works with justin together to make the ultimate controlling unit?


Anyway today I'm very pissed because something broke, I hope it's the QS205 motor because if it's Adaptto I will not ride for long time.
I took the bike to go to work and just outside the house gate went up on a sidewalk not getting there at 90 degrees, but I would say angled 20°. I was going slowly at about 15km/h. I continued the ride without noticing anything for another 200 meters and then when I went to e-brake I noticed a huge vibration that started from the motor and felt up to the saddle.
From then on if I was accelerating or e-braking I had a crazy vibration.
With great regret I then brought back the Bomber in the house and I went to work on motorcycle.
Tonight I'll try to replace the QS205 with Crystalite 5403 to see if during the climb of the sidewalk something broke in the QS205 motor.
At first quick check the Halls sensors seems to work in the correct way.

 

[GmagNeato]

I've been searching for a day or so trying to find the temp limits of the max-e and at what point it starts to limit power. I think I've seen it somewhere before but can't seem to find it in the thread or manual. Does anyone have that information at hand?

I've noticed that sometimes after a long ride my power gets limited by about 50%, but when I check the controller info screen during WOT for mosfet temp it states "Protect : N". Shouldn't it say "Protect : Y" if it's limiting power? Motor temp is nowhere near limit at these times so it must be the controller but I'm not sure what it's limits are...

 

[Allex]

If I remember correctly it limits power at 65C
Merlin, thx for the temp readings. Speakon at 75C is not something to recommend I would say this connector is really 25-30Amps max. Imagine how hot it is if inside the frame on a sunny day in Australia!
And yeah, I dont think you will get it any smoother than 80Watts

 

[GmagNeato]

If I remember correctly it limits power at 65C
Merlin, thx for the temp readings. Speakon at 75C is not something to recommend I would say this connector is really 25-30Amps max. Imagine how hot it is if inside the frame on a sunny day in Australia!
And yeah, I dont think you will get it any smoother than 80Watts

Thanks Allex!! I guess it's time for some cooling mods..

 

[Mammalian04]

From then on if I was accelerating or e-braking I had a crazy vibration.

From my limited experience, that sounds like a phase wire came loose somewhere.

 

[Swe]

Hi,
Just connect red/green wires and the controller will turn on, dont forget to isolate them!

I also have these red/green wires from the PAS. So is it correct this is the On/off wires? And that i should connect them to my on/off key switch that I have on the bike?

 

[ccmdr]

Both Mini-E's start power limiting at 55C and decreases power as temp increases, to the point of only being able to travel at 13kph... Never hit 62+C that was Mini-E's inside vector frame with cromotor not quite perfectly calibrated correctly, this was before the heatsink panel mod and tuning the motor.

 

[Allex]

Hi,
Just connect red/green wires and the controller will turn on, dont forget to isolate them!

I also have these red/green wires from the PAS. So is it correct this is the On/off wires? And that i should connect them to my on/off key switch that I have on the bike?

Yup!

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hi CD. When you disable the trk and ls completely does the problem still occur? If it does then this almost sounds like a connection that might be momentarily losing 100% contact on bumpy terrain. Have you checked them all to make sure they're snug? I would probably start with throttle connections. Keep us posted!

Thanks Gmag.
Yeah, trk and ls were already disabled, and it still occurs.
I did think it could be a connection, however I don't recall it happening until recently after flashing with unlocked F/W and swapping back to my HS4080, which had me thinking that maybe another setting could cause this behaviour. I could be my motor I guess...that would suck.
I will know for sure once I switch back to my Leaf motor from my HS4080 (again). I keep switching motor's as I keep needing to do work on them.

Cheers

 

[GmagNeato]

Hi CD. When you disable the trk and ls completely does the problem still occur? If it does then this almost sounds like a connection that might be momentarily losing 100% contact on bumpy terrain. Have you checked them all to make sure they're snug? I would probably start with throttle connections. Keep us posted!

Thanks Gmag.
Yeah, trk and ls were already disabled, and it still occurs.
I did think it could be a connection, however I don't recall it happening until recently after flashing with unlocked F/W and swapping back to my HS4080, which had me thinking that maybe another setting could cause this behaviour. I could be my motor I guess...that would suck.
I will know for sure once I switch back to my Leaf motor from my HS4080 (again). I keep switching motor's as I keep needing to do work on them.

Cheers

Hopefully it's not your motor! Did you use autodetect when switching to the HS4080 and did it go smoothly? Only ask as I'm thinking perhaps instead you went with settings used previously with the motor, but missed something. The operational condition of bumpy terrain, if consistent to the issue, is telling me it's not being caused by a setting or firmware version in the controller, but I suppose you can never be certain. Maybe it would be easier to try swapping back to locked firmware first (if that's even possible btw?) and eliminating that possibility? If unsuccessful then swap back to the Leaf and flash again to unlocked.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Yeah, did do another auto-detect when I switched over, and it went smoothly.
Once you flash with unlocked firmware, you cannot go back.

I think I'll have to try putting the Leaf back on once I'm done working on it and see if the issue's still there.
I just thought that maybe there was a setting in the advanced area that may impact this sort of thing, like PWR timing or ADDZ or something.

Cheers

 

[GmagNeato]

Yeah, did do another auto-detect when I switched over, and it went smoothly.
Once you flash with unlocked firmware, you cannot go back.

Ah of course. I don't know why I even thought that would be a possibility!

I think I'll have to try putting the Leaf back on once I'm done working on it and see if the issue's still there.
I just thought that maybe there was a setting in the advanced area that may impact this sort of thing, like PWR timing or ADDZ or something.

Cheers

I do recall something in the manual or menu reference stating that ADDZ is supposed to help with smoothness/noise/vibration. And PWR timing could also cause some strange behavior at WOT if it's too extreme in my experience with the wheel up. Definitely worth trying some adjustments there I'd say.

 

[Quokka]

Guys, i need some help from an adaptto guru. I have a QS205 and MaxE with a 20s 12p battery. The innitial set up went fine, did the autodetect and it went fine. After a few rides my "normal" power profile stopped working- eco and boost were fine. I would twist the domino throttle and it was dead. The other profiles were fine. I did a system reset and new autodetect and now all three profiles work again. But now the power seems a lot lower than before. Can someone tell me if the angle/ timing is now on the beers?

Other issue is weird as well... I have a brand new eaton 1800watt psu and the charge current is no where near 1800 watts. I have set the charge input and output to 37.5 amps. Have i done something wrong?

One last thing, at ovs greater than 2 i get a bump feeling from the motor when i back off, is this normal? I have backed it down to 2 and there is no bump.

 

[Quokka]

Charge problem seems solved. Looks like there is something funny with the eaton or coil (got the 30amp coil second hand so maybe its stuffed?)
Hooked up a 3kw hp esp120 with a 70 amp coil and it has loads of grunt.

 

[madin88]

If I remember correctly it limits power at 65C
Merlin, thx for the temp readings. Speakon at 75C is not something to recommend I would say this connector is really 25-30Amps max. Imagine how hot it is if inside the frame on a sunny day in Australia!
And yeah, I dont think you will get it any smoother than 80Watts

Yep, the Speakon is overrated.
Recently when i was pumping over 2kWh with 30A from Eaton PSU (about 1600W, 1h30min charging time), i almost burned my fingers when i was touching it (ambient was room temp!)
It is more around 12A REAL continuous per Pin, but the cross section of the wires also is important and larger wires will soak away the heat from the pins..
Max-E had 45°C at the end of charge..

 

[GmagNeato]

Charge problem seems solved. Looks like there is something funny with the eaton or coil (got the 30amp coil second hand so maybe its stuffed?)
Hooked up a 3kw hp esp120 with a 70 amp coil and it has loads of grunt.

Sounds like the coil is the culprit. You could try the Eaton with the 70amp coil? If that combo works it would be a smaller and I think quieter solution. BTW, are you running that HP ESP off 120ac or 240ac?

 

[GmagNeato]

Guys, i need some help from an adaptto guru. I have a QS205 and MaxE with a 20s 12p battery. The innitial set up went fine, did the autodetect and it went fine. After a few rides my "normal" power profile stopped working- eco and boost were fine. I would twist the domino throttle and it was dead. The other profiles were fine. I did a system reset and new autodetect and now all three profiles work again. But now the power seems a lot lower than before. Can someone tell me if the angle/ timing is now on the beers?

Other issue is weird as well... I have a brand new eaton 1800watt psu and the charge current is no where near 1800 watts. I have set the charge input and output to 37.5 amps. Have i done something wrong?

One last thing, at ovs greater than 2 i get a bump feeling from the motor when i back off, is this normal? I have backed it down to 2 and there is no bump.

Quokka I believe this is the QS205 V3 extra correct? If so they have the KTY83 temp sensor installed. I noticed you have the KTY81 selected.. This may affect temp calibration and performance. That is strange rgd losing the normal mode. Haven't seen that one before. Also, if you are running the V3 Extra, your angle correction seems way off. For instance, although we may have different turn count motors, mine seems happy in the +2 to +4 range. Try adjusting manually with your wheel up and see how she goes. Are you running Active Regen? This is what the PWR timing2 is for. Regarding the bump - do you have Throttle mode in Traction Settings set to SPEED or TORQ? I've found that setting this to TORQ solved a lot of those type issues for me. Let us know if you make any progress!

 

[Swe]

Hi,
I have just used adaptto on my new Leaf 1500W motor. With problem...

I have only set the speed ratio to 93 and the the auto calibration as described in the manual. Auto is succesful. But when I run the motor I cant go faster than like 10km/h. I have the wheel off the ground. When I try to pedal faster the motor prevents it from going faster. If I release the throttle and only pedal I can go faster. Why is it like this?

When I did autocorrect the motor seems to speed up fast for like half a second in the middle but then slow down to about 10km/h (I think).


One more note is that I am only using a 36V 500W battery since my ordinary battery is not finished. But running with wheel in air should work anyway? And I cant help speed up with pedals. I have tried both tourqe and speed mode.

 

[GmagNeato]

Hi,
I have just used adaptto on my new Leaf 1500W motor. With problem...

I have only set the speed ratio to 93 and the the auto calibration as described in the manual. Auto is succesful. But when I run the motor I cant go faster than like 10km/h. I have the wheel off the ground. When I try to pedal faster the motor prevents it from going faster. If I release the throttle and only pedal I can go faster. Why is it like this?

When I did autocorrect the motor seems to speed up fast for like half a second in the middle but then slow down to about 10km/h (I think).


One more note is that I am only using a 36V 500W battery since my ordinary battery is not finished. But running with wheel in air should work anyway? And I cant help speed up with pedals. I have tried both tourqe and speed mode.

What size is your wheel and tire and what are your amp / speed settings in mode profiles?

 

[Swe]

26 inch wheel with 2.4 inch tire. 2140/23=93.

Cant see the bike now but I did not change so much since the battery amps seemed ok for my test battery. Something like 5A, 12A and 18A in boost mode. But will soon check again including other amp settings.. But wonder why it feels like the controller/motor is preventing it from pedal faster...