Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[madin88]

The New(er) Max-E has in their LOCKED Version also less Battery and Phase amps.
at the weekend we finished another Bike and his Max-E is locked to 175A and Phase is ging only to 360A
So if you going 20s you have ~2000w less Power and abit less Phase from dead stop.

On the first and second version of adaptto controllers (revised power stage), the upper limit of the amp setting depends on the resistance of the shunt.
it can be LOWER OR HIGHER as specified.
But i don't know how it is with third version of controllers because i don't have one..

is yours the version 3 with the very new firmware (like posted from Allex somewhere)?

 

[Merlin]

i dont know what type "my personal" is.
older ones had way lower amps. had a talk with doc bass because he wonderes why i had 200a in my screenshots with locked firmware.

this where we have installed on weekend was the "new batch" or "new type" like allex had.
it has also the firmware version 1.x

 

[zopamer]

I searched this thread but couldn't find it.

Is there a way to resent the # of battery cycles in the controller? Or the miles?

 

[atomek1000]

Factory reset probably does it.

 

[mortonpiers]

G'day, I recently purchased my first Adaptto, a MINI-E. There is no action from the buttons at all. I have not cut or modified any cabling. The display ribbon cable looks fine and the solder joints from the cable from the display look ok. I checked the buttons were working via the pads on PCB side of the ribbon cable and buttons seem like they are working. I just checked continuity between the round connector for the display and the pads where the cable comes into the display, all ok.

I had a memory card so I loaded the latest firmware but when I turn it on with the card inserted the screen is blank. Take the card out and the screen appears but the buttons do not work. Not sure where to go from here. The motor is not connected but I presume that wouldn't be the issue.

This is the 2nd bench test. After the first successful testing I just packed it away until I had more time.

UPDATE [Found the yellow wire was broken on the controller side of the display connector plug. Looks like it was slightly shorter than the other wires so suffered under pressure. All is well in the world]

 

[Offroader]

!Halls! error question.

For some reason when I give my bike too much throttle I temporary get the !halls! error, but it goes back to normal within a couple of seconds.

What is strange is this just started and it didn't do it before. I also didn't get the error on the first 20 minutes of my ride, but then it just started after 20 minutes of riding and now it does it when I give the bike too much throttle, even when the bike has been sitting for hours, so it isn't temp related.

I'm using an MXUS motor. I'm assuming it must be leakage into the halls wires?

Should I assume it is the wires themselves, or the hall sensors, or could it actually be a controller issue?

Thanks for any advice here on how to go about figuring out the problem.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Yeah, sounds like EMF leakage alright.
Did you replace the insulation on your phases through the axle with heatshrink?

I had the experience previously with my HS4080 where I could not exceed about 60-70C without the controller starting to limit power. At the time I did not have a temp sensor installed for the Adaptto, but did have a seperate unit. I thought it was to do with the lack of temp sensor for the Adaptto, but it wasn't.
It turned out to be a small nick in my Heat shrink was allowing EMF leakage between the phases, but only once they reached a certain temp.

By the sounds of it, your wiring has reached a certain temp where the insulation somewhere has started leaking. I would suggest redoing the wiring through the axle if you can.

Cheers

 

[Offroader]

Yeah, sounds like EMF leakage alright.
Did you replace the insulation on your phases through the axle with heatshrink?

I had the experience previously with my HS4080 where I could not exceed about 60-70C without the controller starting to limit power. At the time I did not have a temp sensor installed for the Adaptto, but did have a seperate unit. I thought it was to do with the lack of temp sensor for the Adaptto, but it wasn't.
It turned out to be a small nick in my Heat shrink was allowing EMF leakage between the phases, but only once they reached a certain temp.

By the sounds of it, your wiring has reached a certain temp where the insulation somewhere has started leaking. I would suggest redoing the wiring through the axle if you can.

Cheers

Yeah I'll have to start with that, it just sucks because it is such a long job to dismantle the motor from my bike and open it up. Pain with my bike to get all the wires connected through the frame. It will be like a 2 hour job for such a stupid thing.

Then there is no way to test it really unless I install everything because it only does it on at high amps, and then if the problem is still there I have to pull everything again.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Yeah I'll have to start with that, it just sucks because it is such a long job to dismantle the motor from my bike and open it up. Pain with my bike to get all the wires connected through the frame. It will be like a 2 hour job for such a stupid thing.

Then there is no way to test it really unless I install everything because it only does it on at high amps, and then if the problem is still there I have to pull everything again.

Yep, I feel your pain. I had the exact same dilemma, but it usually takes me 1-2 weeks of very small chunks of time where I can squeeze it in to work on my motors. That's why I put off fixing mine for about 2-3 months.
It's one of the reasons I got a second motor/wheel laced up, so I can swap it over when something breaks and take my time to fix the other.

Cheers

 

[notger]

On the first and second version of adaptto controllers (revised power stage), the upper limit of the amp setting depends on the resistance of the shunt.
it can be LOWER OR HIGHER as specified.
But i don't know how it is with third version of controllers because i don't have one..

is yours the version 3 with the very new firmware (like posted from Allex somewhere)?

How do you actually know what ? Version ? of Adaptto you have ?
is there any major difference in it.

Both of my Mini's are from mid 2015 with PAS and the on/off cables comming out of the PAS ? what Version would that be ?

And actually talking about Versions are there any new rumors about any !Whoow! New Version !Whoow! of Adaptto.

And is this still the latest call that the memory of adaptto is full so no new FW-updates will be developed or possible ?

Puh, many Qustions, but i just awake from winter-hibernation in the Alps, so my Bikes have to get ready again.

greets

Notger

 

[Offroader]

Looks like I fixed my !halls! error. I switched over to the other set of halls in my motor, but I used the same wires out to the controller. I just cut and soldered them near the halls.

I figured it was most likely the hall sensors somehow, because I really didn't touch the wires out to the controller.

I just don't get why current would affect a hall sensor because they do work at lower current, maybe it is because i have the halls wires too close to the windings as I had to press them down more firmly.

 

[madin88]

I just don't get why current would affect a hall sensor because they do work at lower current, maybe it is because i have the halls wires too close to the windings as I had to press them down more firmly.

maybe following description will help to understand the problem:

first: current creates a magnetic field
as the direction of the current flow in the phase wires alternates, the magnetic field also alternates between north and south
an alternating magnetic field does induce voltage in any conductive parts (the closer the parts located, the higher the induced voltage)
-> the induced voltage can interrupt the signals from the halls

optimal would be a own shilded wire for the halls (and thermistor)

 

[Philistine]

I am currently upgrading a bike with a MinE to a MaxE. The MinE is probably first generation, I just bought the MaxE.

When I go to do the auto detect, it says that calibration has been interrupted by throttle (as if I stopped pressing the throttle but I haven't). I have tried it with two separate throttles (one a hall based throttle, the other a Magura), both of which currently work perfectly on the MinE (they both worked out of the box without any calibration etc..).

Reading earlier in this thread I gathered there was a change to the wiring configuration on the throttle? Is that right? I also read about people using a resistor on the Magura, but I currently use the Magura on the MinE without any resistor.

Can anyone clarify the situation re changes to throttle on the Adapttos?

EDIT: I have calibrated the throttle limits on the Hall throttle, and calibrated the progression. This is the Hall throttle that works perfectly on the MinE. Interestingly if I pull the throttle the wheel spins albeit in a shuddering rough way (as it hasn't been autodetected), but then when I go to do autodetect, it says calibration interrupted by throttle (but I haven't). I am completely puzzled, as I said, this throttle works perfectly on my MinE, and I have calibrated it to the MaxE. Any thoughts anyone? God I hate ebikes....

EDIT: OK, after experimenting with calibration of the throttles, I was able to get the Magura throttle to do the autodetect if I only moved the throttle half twist as opposed to full twist. The throttles are still not calibrated properly though (I presume the start position is out as the throttle stays on slightly even when I calibrate both ways, so I will have to keep experimenting with calibration. On the MinE I didn't have to do any throttle calibration at all on either throttles.

 

[jonescg]

Great to see your name pop up again Phil

Controllers have come a very long way since I last put a 500 W ebike together. I'm sure there's help around.

 

[Philistine]

Great to see your name pop up again Phil

Controllers have come a very long way since I last put a 500 W ebike together. I'm sure there's help around.

Thanks Chris, yes, I am back to sending myself insane with Ebikes. Tell me about the controllers. If you had told me I would be able to put a 14KW controller on my bike when I built my first ebike I would have asked for some of what you were smoking. Although given I struggle to keep the windows operating system on my laptop functional I suspect things might be getting a bit complicated for me in this game. Its like when Homer Simpson tried to build a robot....

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Likewise Phil, great to see you around again. We still have to get together for a ride sometime.

If you have no plans for that Mini-E, I will happily buy it off you used.

Cheers

 

[Swe]

Can you just cut off the expansion cards from the bms with a nipper? My battery is only 12S today and I don't think I will have more than 16S in the future, so I don't need the extra cards that were included.

If I remember correct there is like three electrical connections between each cards. Is it okay to just cut them, should you do something after this? Just leave it there "open"?

 

[ridethelightning]

i use hacksaw or deremel,
just leave it open

 

[Mammalian04]

Can you just cut off the expansion cards from the bms with a nipper? My battery is only 12S today and I don't think I will have more than 16S in the future, so I don't need the extra cards that were included.

If I remember correct there is like three electrical connections between each cards. Is it okay to just cut them, should you do something after this? Just leave it there "open"?

Maybe leave it in case you have a problem with one of the BMS banks. If so, you can move your 4s wires down one bank on the BMS and use setting is BMS setup to skip that bank.

...unless you don't have room for the whole BMS then Dremel away!

 

[brumbrum]

Can you just cut off the expansion cards from the bms with a nipper? My battery is only 12S today and I don't think I will have more than 16S in the future, so I don't need the extra cards that were included.

If I remember correct there is like three electrical connections between each cards. Is it okay to just cut them, should you do something after this? Just leave it there "open"?

Maybe leave it in case you have a problem with one of the BMS banks. If so, you can move your 4s wires down one bank on the BMS and use setting is BMS setup to skip that bank.

...unless you don't have room for the whole BMS then Dremel away!

+1 for this. They can fail.

 

[Swe]

Too late allready off But if I dont change battery I still have one slot in spare... Have saved the others but looks quite hard to solder back. But dont need that for now.


One question before I dare to charge my battery with Adaptto and coil.. I have Sanya GA 3500mah cells 12S 8P. If I want to charge the cells with 1A, do I set max charge current to 1A or 8A? Since I have 8 in paralell.

Now when I think about it, it should be 8A and not 1A because Adaptto have no idea how many in paralell I have so would be strange to set to 1A. But please tell me/confirm anyway!

 

[Merlin]

*confirm*

 

[Swe]

Thanks! Will try 8A then.

One more question...My battery is 44,4V (12S) and I want to charge 8A. But my power supply to the coil is 24V 10A. Can I really charge with 8A with higher voltage? I see in charge menu you can specify inout and max A, and then charge current. I guess Adaptto will handle this so I can just specify 8A regardless what I actually can charge with? But is there a formula for this if I want to know how much I actually can charge with? Formula between input/output I mean. 240W and 240W/44.4V=5.4A? Just guessing

 

[bowers]

I have a Mini-E with a thumb throttle and tried to activate the cruise control.

While riding (30 km/h) I press the up-button while still maintaining the speed with the throttle. Problem is, as soon as I release the throttle the cruise de-activates.
Am I doing something wrong or is my setup not working as intended?

 

[Merlin]

Thanks! Will try 8A then.

One more question...My battery is 44,4V (12S) and I want to charge 8A. But my power supply to the coil is 24V 10A. Can I really charge with 8A with higher voltage? I see in charge menu you can specify inout and max A, and then charge current. I guess Adaptto will handle this so I can just specify 8A regardless what I actually can charge with? But is there a formula for this if I want to know how much I actually can charge with? Formula between input/output I mean. 240W and 240W/44.4V=5.4A? Just guessing

what kind of PSU is it?

no matter what you setup in your controller/charge settings.
your psu will limit to what it is designed for. (if it has no protection about overload, please dont setup more then 10A)

most PSU will drop the voltage to fit the current whats printed on the case.

this is why adaptto has also a vdrop setting for your psu.
so you can squeeze out everything from your psu.

240x10 sounds like a meanwell. if so you can be happy when you see 200w =)

your formular is simple like: PSU printed 24v 10a on the case, so it will give you 240w "brutto" power.

the losses between "controller- wires- charge coil" and your psu will in the higher range. so i bet you will see 180w-200w on the display max.