ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
Luge_a_foin said:
yes. heat the jst pins a little with the iron, the plastic softens and the white cover slides off, then heat the pins individually to remove them from the pcb pads :wink:
Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
yes. heat the jst pins a little with the iron, the plastic softens and the white cover slides off, then heat the pins individually to remove them from the pcb pads :wink:
vipertriplex
10 mW
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2016
- Messages
- 28
Hopefully someone can tell me why my motor immediately jumps into reverse when its about to go into high speed calibration during Autodetect.
Ive run auto detect once before and completed successfully. Ive tried id again after having the controller serviced and now this... Has anyone ever experienced this before.
Ive made a video and can link it to better assist if needed...
Thanks. https://youtu.be/I1U_FQG5Iiw Motor in action
Ive run auto detect once before and completed successfully. Ive tried id again after having the controller serviced and now this... Has anyone ever experienced this before.
Ive made a video and can link it to better assist if needed...
Thanks. https://youtu.be/I1U_FQG5Iiw Motor in action
vipertriplex said:
Yes, this is somthing which can happen during autodetect, but don't ask me why.
Maybe it helps if you swap phase wires and/or the hall wires (needs soldering).
I also was told that it would be optimal to have a "hall offest" of 0° (thats a value the controller detects automatically during the first step of autodetect. you should NOT adjust it manually).
So swap the wires as long as you get the value 0° after the first step of autodetect (motor spins slowly and smooth in the right direction).
Than try finishing the setup.
However, i anyway would stop after the first step and do manual tuning for best performance and efficiency
vipertriplex
10 mW
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2016
- Messages
- 28
Yeah, strange indeed but with a happy ending...
I tried it all. Went from re soldering hall to all connections. Even swapped out my phase wires. Couldn't understand it.
All seems fine until it goes into high speed calibration then BANG!, in reverse.
Now I realized that every time it does it that I am the one who stops the test by releasing the throttle, I did so because I was under the impression that something was wrong and rather to cause any further damage to either the controller or the motor, it was I who terminated the test as it wanted to continue running. Other then running really rough and in reverse their was no sudden heat spikes in the motor or no strange demands being put on the battery. So, I figured, What the hell. Let it run.
To my surprise It completed the remainder of the test in revers, successfully.. After the test the motor ran like crap. Not sure what would happen if I preformed another test. Again, what the hell.
Rite back to normal.
Its as if it were determined to run a preset list of motor values, as I was under the impression that these would randomly change upon activation of Autodetect.
Whatever the case its back to normal once again... Thanks Madin88
I tried it all. Went from re soldering hall to all connections. Even swapped out my phase wires. Couldn't understand it.
All seems fine until it goes into high speed calibration then BANG!, in reverse.
Now I realized that every time it does it that I am the one who stops the test by releasing the throttle, I did so because I was under the impression that something was wrong and rather to cause any further damage to either the controller or the motor, it was I who terminated the test as it wanted to continue running. Other then running really rough and in reverse their was no sudden heat spikes in the motor or no strange demands being put on the battery. So, I figured, What the hell. Let it run.
To my surprise It completed the remainder of the test in revers, successfully.. After the test the motor ran like crap. Not sure what would happen if I preformed another test. Again, what the hell.
Rite back to normal.
Its as if it were determined to run a preset list of motor values, as I was under the impression that these would randomly change upon activation of Autodetect.
Whatever the case its back to normal once again... Thanks Madin88
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
no..
DasDouble
100 kW
ap0f1s said:
Absolutely not. This is how my LiPo Packs got disscharged down to 2.9 volts once..
so you didnt ride your bike with battery attached for 2 years?
sry to discharge a bike battery from our big bikes it needs more then some weeks to discharge.
if you find your battery cells at 2.90v there was something other wrong. for example you rode your bike down to 2,91v
and after one week you had 2,90
sry to discharge a bike battery from our big bikes it needs more then some weeks to discharge.
if you find your battery cells at 2.90v there was something other wrong. for example you rode your bike down to 2,91v
and after one week you had 2,90
DasDouble
100 kW
Merlin said:so you didnt ride your bike with battery attached for 2 years?
sry to discharge a bike battery from our big bikes it needs more then some weeks to discharge.
if you find your battery cells at 2.90v there was something other wrong. for example you rode your bike down to 2,91v
and after one week you had 2,90
No I rode it to 3.1 volts and wanted to balance it for two houres (I thought it will stop at 3.0 volts + that only the too high charged packs are getting disscharged). But I have forgotten to turn the bike off so it went balancing 24 houres.
Shit happens.
DasDouble said:No I rode it to 3.1 volts and wanted to balance it for two houres (I thought it will stop at 3.0 volts + that only the too high charged packs are getting disscharged). But I have forgotten to turn the bike off so it went balancing 24 houres.
Shit happens.
You can adjust the balancing voltage in the BMS settings, and it will stop to balance below that value.
If you have set it to 3,0V for instance, it will discharge EVERY group down to that.
on all of my bikes i have set balancing voltage higher as the maximum charge voltage per cell.
even my 3 years old 22s9p Sony battery (soldered on the cells) is still well balanced, despite the fact that i never have done any balancing on it.
a good battery (-> properly built with well known cells) doesn't need balancing :wink:
madin88 said:DasDouble said:No I rode it to 3.1 volts and wanted to balance it for two houres (I thought it will stop at 3.0 volts + that only the too high charged packs are getting disscharged). But I have forgotten to turn the bike off so it went balancing 24 houres.
Shit happens.
You can adjust the balancing voltage in the BMS settings, and it will stop to balance below that value.
If you have set it to 3,0V for instance, it will discharge EVERY group down to that.
on all of my bikes i have set balancing voltage higher as the maximum charge voltage per cell.
even my 3 years old 22s9p Sony battery (soldered on the cells) is still well balanced, despite the fact that i never have done any balancing on it.
a good battery (-> properly built with well known cells) doesn't need balancing :wink:
Very true, my 280 cell Sanyo 18650GA pack has never been balanced, cells are not even in parallel. The pack is still perfectly balanced a year and many cycles later.
I don't know if I'm pushing my luck but I may go a 2nd year without putting them in parallel and connecting my BMS.
The cells were all brand new and I discarded any out of voltage cells when building it.
Not sure how much a well built pack makes a difference with cells staying in balance. Some argue that it doesn't matter and weld the pack with uneven nickel / uneven current path. Some say it matters. I built mine with very even current path between the cells.
madin88 said:DasDouble said:No I rode it to 3.1 volts and wanted to balance it for two houres (I thought it will stop at 3.0 volts + that only the too high charged packs are getting disscharged). But I have forgotten to turn the bike off so it went balancing 24 houres.
Shit happens.
You can adjust the balancing voltage in the BMS settings, and it will stop to balance below that value.
If you have set it to 3,0V for instance, it will discharge EVERY group down to that.
on all of my bikes i have set balancing voltage higher as the maximum charge voltage per cell.
even my 3 years old 22s9p Sony battery (soldered on the cells) is still well balanced, despite the fact that i never have done any balancing on it.
a good battery (-> properly built with well known cells) doesn't need balancing :wink:
btw: he is/was riding LIPOs....no comment about 3.1v
DasDouble
100 kW
I have a question: After I have ridden my bike the whole day (about 3 hours), my battery dies. On my statistics it always sais I have used only 1600Wh, but in reality I have a 3.6kWh pack (300 x 3.6v x ~3.45). Is my battery already dat death or is the Max-E just reading the Wh incorrectly? My battery is not even older then half a year. Im a bit worried..
PS: I can ride with it about 22km with wide open throttle. Then another 22km with half that power. And then maybe 10km more when Im pushing only about 2kW because of the voltage drop. I don´t disscharge the batterys to less then 3.25 volts.
PS: I can ride with it about 22km with wide open throttle. Then another 22km with half that power. And then maybe 10km more when Im pushing only about 2kW because of the voltage drop. I don´t disscharge the batterys to less then 3.25 volts.
Forget the 3.45Ah.....under load these high capacity cells will fold.
Therefore i went with the 2500mah samsung 25r (25A) cell instead of a 3.5Ah cell.
These 3.5Ah cells are mostly 10A cells.
So under high load they perform bad.
Look at the discharge charts at "dampfakkus", once the load goes up the 25r performs better and better.
I have a 19p battery and theoretical 3500wh like you.
@the high setting (120A) i usually get 2900wh out of it down to 3V. (4.1V max)
Battery is 10000km and ~100 fullcycles old.
You have a 15p config with weaker cells, so it must perform worse.
Only on paper we got the same wh.
But 1600wh is a bit too worse......i would expect around 2300-2600 in real life with a relatively new battery.
What are your max. amps?
Take a ride with 60A max.
and look how far you can get.
Thats 4A per cell and they should perform good at this discharge rate.
Therefore i went with the 2500mah samsung 25r (25A) cell instead of a 3.5Ah cell.
These 3.5Ah cells are mostly 10A cells.
So under high load they perform bad.
Look at the discharge charts at "dampfakkus", once the load goes up the 25r performs better and better.
I have a 19p battery and theoretical 3500wh like you.
@the high setting (120A) i usually get 2900wh out of it down to 3V. (4.1V max)
Battery is 10000km and ~100 fullcycles old.
You have a 15p config with weaker cells, so it must perform worse.
Only on paper we got the same wh.
But 1600wh is a bit too worse......i would expect around 2300-2600 in real life with a relatively new battery.
What are your max. amps?
Take a ride with 60A max.
and look how far you can get.
Thats 4A per cell and they should perform good at this discharge rate.
DasDouble
100 kW
I think I will make a video about that. Thanks for your help. I really appreciate that.
Thanks for your help. I really appreciate that.
Allex
100 MW
What cells are you running? 3,45... is that some crappy panasonic 18650B laptop cells?
They are good for up to 4-5A maximum so 75A@15p peaks.
Then you need to take the pack layout in consideration, if it as badly designed pack this will get you even less performance and capacity.
Besides to get full capacity you need to run them from 4,2-2,5V@0,5A
But you are running 4,1-3V@5A or more, this will never get you above 3Ah.
They are good for up to 4-5A maximum so 75A@15p peaks.
Then you need to take the pack layout in consideration, if it as badly designed pack this will get you even less performance and capacity.
Besides to get full capacity you need to run them from 4,2-2,5V@0,5A
But you are running 4,1-3V@5A or more, this will never get you above 3Ah.
DasDouble
100 kW
I use 300 Samsung 30Q cells. @Allex.
!HALLS! Error ........ 
Unfortunately yesterday I had to replace the R113 in my max-e controller. A rear brake disc screw unscrewed because I forgot to use blu Loctite on them the last time I rebuilt the rear brake and it made a huge damage. I had a phase wire almost cut and the little black (ground) wire of the halls was peeled and shorted to the phase.
In the controller R113 was reading "open circuit" with continuity test so I removed it and installed a nominal 4.7 hom quarter watt normal resistor.
What's the wattage of the original? It should be 3R9 (3.9 ohm) https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=943339#p943339
but I don't know the wattage. Doing a search on the net is seems they has 0,100-0,250 W.
Here is what I have now:
My concern is to know which current will burn this resistor. Assuming the original 3.9 ohm 100 mW and using the formula P=I^2xR it will burn over 0,160 A and the one I installed measured 5,3 ohm and 0,250W will burn over 0,217 A
Unfortunately yesterday I had to replace the R113 in my max-e controller. A rear brake disc screw unscrewed because I forgot to use blu Loctite on them the last time I rebuilt the rear brake and it made a huge damage. I had a phase wire almost cut and the little black (ground) wire of the halls was peeled and shorted to the phase.
In the controller R113 was reading "open circuit" with continuity test so I removed it and installed a nominal 4.7 hom quarter watt normal resistor.
What's the wattage of the original? It should be 3R9 (3.9 ohm) https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=943339#p943339
but I don't know the wattage. Doing a search on the net is seems they has 0,100-0,250 W.
Here is what I have now:
My concern is to know which current will burn this resistor. Assuming the original 3.9 ohm 100 mW and using the formula P=I^2xR it will burn over 0,160 A and the one I installed measured 5,3 ohm and 0,250W will burn over 0,217 A
Allex
100 MW
madin88 said:
Yeah they give you about 2,6Ah from 4,2-3V this is at 7A constant.
DasDouble
100 kW
madin88 said:
yes, there you are right. I wrote that because I have reat it once somewhere. My fault.
Edit: On the paper it says 3.5
But we already cleared that..
DasDouble
100 kW
Ok so as we have made some things clear another quick question: What is the max. speed you folks get with your bikes? I have a peak of about 56km/h / 34mph with about 8kW peak (yes I know thats not my possible maximum with my Max-E but the circumstances dont allow higher speeds atm) with a 18" rear motor tire and the QS 205 V3 from Vector + ff from Merlin. How about you?
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