any 500a continuous bms out there?

branson.cz

100 mW
Joined
Oct 16, 2023
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44
Location
orange county
i’m building a new 20s 18p battery pack, and it’s able to do 500a cont. yet i cannot find any bms that is able to do 500a cont. should i just get the ant 380/950 peak? or does anybody know of another bms
 
I don't know anyone running more than 100A continuous on a bicycle.
That's more like car levels of power.

What the heck are you building? :mrgreen:
 
i’m already doing 250a lol, it’s a super73 rx with a fardriver 72530 and a qs205.
 

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Why do you want to run 500A current through the bms.
If you want big numbers go for a shunt to measure current and only let the bms control the cell voltages and a charge contactor and a discharge connector.

I'm using a JK-B2A24S20p BMS in my scooter equipped with a ND72680 running 270A and 300A boost at the moment, but after installing a 10kw hub-motor I want to go for the full 350A.
The JK-BMS can do 350A for 60seconds.
 
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i’m already doing 250a lol, it’s a super73 rx with a fardriver 72530 and a qs205.
Ah, so it's a motorcycle with pedals.

250A continuous current draw usually means that you are going up steep hills at high speed, or going very fast against severe wind resistance.

500A continuous is more like racetrack or mountain-climbing-while-hauling-cargo levels of power.

What are your actual riding conditions, and how are you actually riding, at what speeds, etc?

If you define all those things as completely as you can, you can then find out what power it actually takes to do what you want, so you can make sure to buy the parts that will do that job for you, instead of re-buying things as you find they don't do what you want, and wasting your time and money.

If you won't do that, the best I can recommend is to get a JBD contactor-based BMS and if they don't have one with a contactor and shunt rated high enough, replace the contactor (and shunt) with ones that are, and change the BMS settings to match.
 
Why do you want to run 500A current through the bms.
If you want big numbers go for a shunt to measure current and only let the bms control the cell voltages and a charge contactor and a discharge connector.

I'm using a JK-B2A24S20p BMS in my scooter equipped with a ND72680 running 270A and 300A boost at the moment, but after installing a 10kw hub-motor I want to go for the full 350A.
The JK-BMS can do 350A for 60seconds.
i’m trying to build a very fast bike for certain reasons. i’ve seen the jk but for the price i’d rather go with the ant 380cont 950 peak with passive balance
 
Ah, so it's a motorcycle with pedals.

250A continuous current draw usually means that you are going up steep hills at high speed, or going very fast against severe wind resistance.

What are your actual riding conditions, and how are you actually riding, at what speeds, etc?

If you define all those things as completely as you can, you can then find out what power it actually takes to do what you want, so you can make sure to buy the parts that will do that job for you, instead of re-buying things as you find they don't do what you want, and wasting your time and money.

If you won't do that, the best I can recommend is to get a JBD contactor-based BMS and if they don't have one with a contactor and shunt rated high enough, replace the contactor (and shunt) with ones that are, and change the BMS settings to match.
it’s a “e-bike” 😉. i live in southern california so the weather and conditions are almost always the same, i’m really looking for speed and range. it does about 70 as is, with a quick 15 minute tune and field weaking off. i did find a 500a cont daly bms for $250 on aliexpress, i honestly don’t really know what a shunt is or a contractor based bms, im coming from a surron so everything i had was pretty much plug in play.
 
Geez dude, a legal issue waiting to happen with that much power.

I don't know where your vehicle belongs on this forum exactly but we're gonna move you over to motorcycle land because in ebike land, only ~0.1% are using controllers with 100A even, motorcycle crowd would understand you better.
 
Geez dude, a legal issue waiting to happen with that much power.

I don't know where your vehicle belongs on this forum exactly but we're gonna move you over to motorcycle land because in ebike land, only ~0.1% are using controllers with 100A even :p
i thought my bike was slow too compared to some of the stuff on here 😂. the cops over here only really care about pedals and speed, not much of an issue because i got pedals and a radar 😉. and if they do try to pull me over they will probably stop chasing because of no chase laws and speed and what not
 
No, we do have some insane bikes on here but the 500 amp club is smaller than you think.

Good luck out there.. but do let us know if you get busted! 😛
 
You want to feed the QS205 with 30kw? Or will you use a different motor?

I burned the awg 6 phase wires from my qs260 with 24kw in a few minutes. Now I have upgraded to 16mm² AWG5 with 205C isolation.
 
No, we do have some insane bikes on here but the 500 amp club is smaller than you think.

Good luck out there.. but do let us know if you get busted! 😛
can’t wait to join the club, i’ll 100% get in trouble for it but the cops here don’t file their tickets if your under 18 on e-bikes usually
 
You want to feed the QS205 with 30kw? Or will you use a different motor?

I burned the awg 6 phase wires from my qs260 with 24kw in a few minutes. Now I have upgraded to 16mm² AWG5 with 205C isolation.
i was planning on doing 20kw for awhile until i upgrade to a qs273, or if i can find something better maybe used?? was your motor injected with statorade and did it have a hub sync?
 
Boy am i glad i didn't have access to this level of power at your age! :ROFLMAO:

Carry on
 
The inside was still ok, only the phase wires burnt. No statorade or hubsinks.

Burnt phase wires
 
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