Bafang 1000w rear hub motor where to buy new axle ???(axle replacement) help???
- Thread starter Benrapley
- Start date
Unfortunately, unless you have a machine shop to make one (or have one made at), the motor manufacturer is usually the only place to get one, as they are usually specific to each model of motor.
Companies that sell motors/kits (rather than making them) aren't generally inclined to carry parts for them since its' just as easy for them to carry more motors/kits and sell you a new one, and costs them less....
You can check with ebikes.ca (since they have experimented with a lot of motors and stuff) to see if they happen to have a compatible axle, or might know a place other than the motor manufacturer to get one.
If you have to have one made, you'll probably have to give them the old axle to get dimensions from.
Companies that sell motors/kits (rather than making them) aren't generally inclined to carry parts for them since its' just as easy for them to carry more motors/kits and sell you a new one, and costs them less....
You can check with ebikes.ca (since they have experimented with a lot of motors and stuff) to see if they happen to have a compatible axle, or might know a place other than the motor manufacturer to get one.
If you have to have one made, you'll probably have to give them the old axle to get dimensions from.
BTW, one of the most common reasons to break an axle is incorrect mounting of the motor so it is able to move in the dropouts, especially if it is only at one axle end, while the other is fixed hard in place, which can allow twisting of the fixed one, and eventualy shear it off. (usually worst when it's a DD hubmotor using regen, but can happen with geared hubmotors too if the torque change is high and rapid enough).
Another is exceeding the amount of power the motor is designed for / capable of, by enough that it repeatedly stresses the axle until it shears. (like using a really big controller on a too-small motor, with the axle secured very well on both sides or just one).
Both of these usually break right at the axle shoulder, right up against hte inboard side of the dropouts.
Another is exceeding the amount of power the motor is designed for / capable of, by enough that it repeatedly stresses the axle until it shears. (like using a really big controller on a too-small motor, with the axle secured very well on both sides or just one).
Both of these usually break right at the axle shoulder, right up against hte inboard side of the dropouts.
I only saw axles for mid drive bafang
Overtorquing nuts (if that's what you mean) on an axle doesn't typically do anything beyond damage the nut threads, or sometimes the axle threads.
Spacers don't usually contribute to breakage, either, whether missing or present.
Not having correctly mounted well-made tight-fitting torque arms or clamping dropouts on both ends of the axle (both sides of the bike) can, via the previously described paths, if enough torque is applied from the motor to the axle from acceleration or braking.
I forgot to post the other major breakage reason Iv'e seen, which breaks them at the same point (axle shoulder, at the dropout): bending loads (repeated over time), such as impacts, curb jumps, or just heavy loads on them with rippled pavement or other repeated-deformation-surface riding terrain. IIRC that's what broke my old Crystalyte X5304's axle.
Sometimes the axles are just crappily made, and break at that stress riser point even without excessive loading along their length or around their diameter.
Sorry, I thought yours was a mid.
No worries Ty for the input, weird how the mud has axle replacements but the rears are a forbidden item 
sadly I’m prolly going to leave it to the side and build a through axle from grin. You guys might know I was wanting to use my bafang rear retro blade wheel with a new rear hub motor I’ll post a pic !
sadly I’m prolly going to leave it to the side and build a through axle from grin. You guys might know I was wanting to use my bafang rear retro blade wheel with a new rear hub motor I’ll post a pic !Attachments
If you mean the cast (nonspoked) wheel in the second pic, you can't directly use a different hubmotor in it because it's motor casing is cast as part of the wheel.
You'd need to machine the motor casing of any new motor so that it fits inside the existing casing that's part of the wheel, and then bond or otherwise secure them together so it can't rotate inside that.
Or you'd need to pick a motor that uses essentially the same casing, so that you can take it's core out of it's own casing and install it into this one (or is close enough to machine parts to make it fit).
If the casing is the same internal diameter, and same internal width, so the core fits including axle shoulders, etc., and if the outer ring gear (the one in the hub shell) is the same as the new motor's, it should just slip in and then use the side cover off the old motor to close it up (unless the new motor's fits onto and bolts down to the old mtoor's casing; which could happen but may not).
If all the above is true but the ring gear is different, you should be able to move the ring gear from the new motor's casing to the old one; it may require some machining of the casing or gear to fit the keyway/key together so the gear can't spin inside the housing.
Structurally you can't really cut the original casing out and install a new one; there might be ways to machine parts to secure the cast "spokes" to the casing, but unless you *really* want that wheel you're likely to find it better (cheaper, easier, etc) to just build the type of wheel the new motor is designed to fit in.
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Ok ya Ty for
The info I guess rebuilding my back end is the next move .. funny how I paid 4,200 US dollars for a juiced hs2 that is now discontinued and selling for half the price new not a year later.. I wish I knew what I know now before the purchase.. oh well live and learn
The info I guess rebuilding my back end is the next move .. funny how I paid 4,200 US dollars for a juiced hs2 that is now discontinued and selling for half the price new not a year later.. I wish I knew what I know now before the purchase.. oh well live and learn
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