Bafang Ultra, Phaserunner + CA with custom frame
- Thread starter elias
- Start date
Yesterday I did a test drive through the rain. The support of the gear changing cable
turned around, ripping the gear cable.
So I machined this
Additionally, the chain slipped over the chain wheel when some torque was applied
So I made a simple cylinder that was fixed on the back side of the hanger (the red circle in my sketch)
which prevents the chain being pulled over the teeth by the motor.
It worked. But that was a very short second try. We will see...
turned around, ripping the gear cable.
So I machined this
Additionally, the chain slipped over the chain wheel when some torque was applied
So I made a simple cylinder that was fixed on the back side of the hanger (the red circle in my sketch)
which prevents the chain being pulled over the teeth by the motor.
It worked. But that was a very short second try. We will see...
update: Took a while but finally figured out that the Phase runner will NOT hold the programming changes I make! I can go in and set current to 50 amps,make all the recommended changes for eliminating judder etc. Then, it is all good and the bike went right up over 40mph AND had no judder!!
However, as soon as I either disconnect the battery OR turn off the CA with the push button, then, upon turning the unit back on OR
reconnecting the battery, ALL changes I had made are gone and everything is back where it was when I started. This is weird because the amps are at 42.8 amps. I never set it to 42.8 amps! Same for every other change
I make on any programming screen, every change I make reverts back upon power down....
I am asked Grin for help. Either it needs to be re-flashed, or it has a problem internally. I am now stuck.
However, those two laps around the block in my neighborhood were REALLY amazing! I feel that IF I can get the program to stick I am home free....
However, as soon as I either disconnect the battery OR turn off the CA with the push button, then, upon turning the unit back on OR
reconnecting the battery, ALL changes I had made are gone and everything is back where it was when I started. This is weird because the amps are at 42.8 amps. I never set it to 42.8 amps! Same for every other change
I make on any programming screen, every change I make reverts back upon power down....
I am asked Grin for help. Either it needs to be re-flashed, or it has a problem internally. I am now stuck.
However, those two laps around the block in my neighborhood were REALLY amazing! I feel that IF I can get the program to stick I am home free....
Made my first real ride today over 40km. With full motor support and pedalling GPS speedo showed 63 km/h. I think I could get faster, but again the cadence (is that the word for the pedalling frequency?) was veerrry high. Anyway it was great. Everything worked flawless and the bike feels like a safe ride. Two things happened that I have to look after:
1. voltage went low quite fast But I hadn't loaded the battery for a week and did a lot of full throttle driving, so I hope that this is OK
2. twice the motor power went low because of overheating. I had the temp max at 90°Does anyone have any experience with that phenomenon?
cheers,
elias
1. voltage went low quite fast
But I hadn't loaded the battery for a week and did a lot of full throttle driving, so I hope that this is OK2. twice the motor power went low because of overheating. I had the temp max at 90°Does anyone have any experience with that phenomenon?
cheers,
elias
Hey Elias,
Hello!
First off, I have gotten rid of all juddering, (totally gone) with my 60 V triangle and a full 50 amps of available current for my Bafang Ultra. Sounds easy, but I spent over 8 hours on this and must have tried reprogramming 50 times, always getting a com error at the end of the save function. I also tried a second cable, since I have two from Grin, no help. Finally, I figured that I somehow corrupted something internal to the PR so I figured out where and how to get the default off you site, then imported it and the save parameter was successful without an error message. From there, I then kept trying to manually, on screen make the changes for judder elimination but EVERY time I saved it, there was a com error and after power cycling changes would disappear. Then I would have to reload the default by importing the XML file.. Finally a light bulb went off after hours of reading the forum, trial and error etc. So I manually made the changes on the screen, then I exported it to XML, THEN I imported it and save parameters worked, only that one time, but that was all I needed it to work.
I went out and test rode it this afternoon on my 15 mile Delta Loop (the shortest) and I cannot tell you how powerful this motor now feels. I have two standard Bafang Ultras on both 48 and 52 volts, 30 amps so I have a good measuring perspective and it is amazing. I put all the throttle output changes back to original settings. Here is what I got off one ES site post and it worked great for my 60 volt with Ultra:
Feedback bandwidth tuning
Current regulator bandwidth Changed from 1000 rads to 0 rads
PLL bandwidth Changed from 1.00 Rads to 3.00 Rads
Torque down ramp to 1ms
Regen torque release ramp to 1ms
(not really sure these two changes are needed, but I am afraid to go back in and make changes because it works great the way it is.)
On Advanced page:
Current Regulator Kp to 1.0
Current Regulator Ki to 10
Speed Regulator Kp to 4.0
Speed Regulator Ki to 16.0
Then check the Enable access level 3 box and click save parameters.
One other thing I did, but would not recommend is setting the max field weakening current to 35 amps, it works and I am afraid to go in and try to change it! I am pretty sure this made a lot of the heat in the motor, but also a lot of the power!
Bike will run to 37/38mph on throttle only. In high pas assist and 10 gear I can get it to 43/44. with pedals and throttle, then I quit pedaling and keep throttle maxed and it stays over 40 for about 3 miles on throttle only.
This thing does get hot running on flat levies with 50 amp steady running thru it! I actually rode it this way with the cruise control on for about 6 straight miles on the levies today! I thought what the heck let’s check out heat buildup. Temps rose quite rapidly but not shockingly so. At 100C it started throttling back and eventually stabilized at just over 100C with current at 33/34 amps and speed at 32/33 mph. I was very happy with the temperature throttling function. Since I believe this function resides in the CA, I will be playing with it and fine tuning it.
Keep in mind ALL of this is on a loaner set of wheels and shifter I stole off another bike because my rear Rohloff and front DT Swiss H1700 wheels will not be here for another two weeks. I only have a front brake so far because I have to bleed the rear one and I let the Local bike shop do all the bleeding. Within one month I will be looking for a high end 72 volt high capacity battery with smart 60 amp BMS so we can find out how well the Ultra handles 4000 watts. So far I feel like I could fine tune the temperature throttling function and add a heat sink to the controller and this 3000 watt system would not take any special care to keep it running. The protection functions seem to do the job. Time will tell if the Bafang can hang at this power range for the long run, daily rider.
I do know the I can play with the throttle ramping to get a little harder hit if I think I need to. Right now I am just happy that I can even start in 10th gear from a dead stop without ANY juddering!
As for the frame, it felt rock solid... I think Frey made a great frame and it is pretty darn strong.
Yes Elias, cadence is the correct term. I will wait until I get my 525% Rohloff before I decide how many teeth to run on the front ring. Right now I have a Bafang 40 tooth, if I want a different tooth count I will go with a Raceface.
Hello!
First off, I have gotten rid of all juddering, (totally gone) with my 60 V triangle and a full 50 amps of available current for my Bafang Ultra. Sounds easy, but I spent over 8 hours on this and must have tried reprogramming 50 times, always getting a com error at the end of the save function. I also tried a second cable, since I have two from Grin, no help. Finally, I figured that I somehow corrupted something internal to the PR so I figured out where and how to get the default off you site, then imported it and the save parameter was successful without an error message. From there, I then kept trying to manually, on screen make the changes for judder elimination but EVERY time I saved it, there was a com error and after power cycling changes would disappear. Then I would have to reload the default by importing the XML file.. Finally a light bulb went off after hours of reading the forum, trial and error etc. So I manually made the changes on the screen, then I exported it to XML, THEN I imported it and save parameters worked, only that one time, but that was all I needed it to work.
I went out and test rode it this afternoon on my 15 mile Delta Loop (the shortest) and I cannot tell you how powerful this motor now feels. I have two standard Bafang Ultras on both 48 and 52 volts, 30 amps so I have a good measuring perspective and it is amazing. I put all the throttle output changes back to original settings. Here is what I got off one ES site post and it worked great for my 60 volt with Ultra:
Feedback bandwidth tuning
Current regulator bandwidth Changed from 1000 rads to 0 rads
PLL bandwidth Changed from 1.00 Rads to 3.00 Rads
Torque down ramp to 1ms
Regen torque release ramp to 1ms
(not really sure these two changes are needed, but I am afraid to go back in and make changes because it works great the way it is.)
On Advanced page:
Current Regulator Kp to 1.0
Current Regulator Ki to 10
Speed Regulator Kp to 4.0
Speed Regulator Ki to 16.0
Then check the Enable access level 3 box and click save parameters.
One other thing I did, but would not recommend is setting the max field weakening current to 35 amps, it works and I am afraid to go in and try to change it! I am pretty sure this made a lot of the heat in the motor, but also a lot of the power!
Bike will run to 37/38mph on throttle only. In high pas assist and 10 gear I can get it to 43/44. with pedals and throttle, then I quit pedaling and keep throttle maxed and it stays over 40 for about 3 miles on throttle only.
This thing does get hot running on flat levies with 50 amp steady running thru it! I actually rode it this way with the cruise control on for about 6 straight miles on the levies today! I thought what the heck let’s check out heat buildup. Temps rose quite rapidly but not shockingly so. At 100C it started throttling back and eventually stabilized at just over 100C with current at 33/34 amps and speed at 32/33 mph. I was very happy with the temperature throttling function. Since I believe this function resides in the CA, I will be playing with it and fine tuning it.
Keep in mind ALL of this is on a loaner set of wheels and shifter I stole off another bike because my rear Rohloff and front DT Swiss H1700 wheels will not be here for another two weeks. I only have a front brake so far because I have to bleed the rear one and I let the Local bike shop do all the bleeding. Within one month I will be looking for a high end 72 volt high capacity battery with smart 60 amp BMS so we can find out how well the Ultra handles 4000 watts. So far I feel like I could fine tune the temperature throttling function and add a heat sink to the controller and this 3000 watt system would not take any special care to keep it running. The protection functions seem to do the job. Time will tell if the Bafang can hang at this power range for the long run, daily rider.
I do know the I can play with the throttle ramping to get a little harder hit if I think I need to. Right now I am just happy that I can even start in 10th gear from a dead stop without ANY juddering!
As for the frame, it felt rock solid... I think Frey made a great frame and it is pretty darn strong.
Yes Elias, cadence is the correct term. I will wait until I get my 525% Rohloff before I decide how many teeth to run on the front ring. Right now I have a Bafang 40 tooth, if I want a different tooth count I will go with a Raceface.
Killer-B
10 mW
I use to get my motors up to the 90 threshhold, or 110, I added ferrofluid , or statoraide, whatever its called and now I see my temps usually around 70 degree, there are a few fids on how it works out there on the Grin videos tab
Hey Elias,
Here is a photo of the Rohloff chain tensioner on my son's fat tire with BBSHD. It looks to me that the positioning of this unit is closer to the sprocket (chain wheel) centerline and a little bit further forward. This is an off the shelf tensioner and it has never jumped the chain as you describe. only 1500 watts going thru this...for now
Just thought the photo may spark your designer side....
Here is a photo of the Rohloff chain tensioner on my son's fat tire with BBSHD. It looks to me that the positioning of this unit is closer to the sprocket (chain wheel) centerline and a little bit further forward. This is an off the shelf tensioner and it has never jumped the chain as you describe. only 1500 watts going thru this...for now
Just thought the photo may spark your designer side....
Man, I learn so much from this forum.
This seems to be a great solution to the heat problem, thank you!
Gary, sorry to hear about that crazy programming issue that you have there. That work around you found is really weird. But great results you have there! I will try some of your hints today
Yes, I think the build-up of the heat is faster with a lot of field weakening. Today I drove to work for the first time and tried reduced max amps (40) and 15 amps weakening and I had no temp issue at all. But the power wasn't sufficent enough for going uphill in the longest gear. Which is of course no option at all!
So I will get some of that statorade and push the values up again.
Thank you for the pic with the Rohloff tensioner. As I said, I have no clue what already exists. Of course it's the fun part for me thinking about solutions for myself. Having the little wheel nearby the sprocket is the best way. I have an idea what could be another reason why that chain gliding happens. Look at a Rohloff sprocket and compare with a Sturmey Archer sprocket:
Do you think that the different profile of the teeth causes the problem?
Killer-B said:
This seems to be a great solution to the heat problem, thank you!
Gary, sorry to hear about that crazy programming issue that you have there. That work around you found is really weird. But great results you have there! I will try some of your hints today
garyal1 said:
Yes, I think the build-up of the heat is faster with a lot of field weakening. Today I drove to work for the first time and tried reduced max amps (40) and 15 amps weakening and I had no temp issue at all. But the power wasn't sufficent enough for going uphill in the longest gear. Which is of course no option at all!
So I will get some of that statorade and push the values up again.
Thank you for the pic with the Rohloff tensioner. As I said, I have no clue what already exists. Of course it's the fun part for me thinking about solutions for myself. Having the little wheel nearby the sprocket is the best way. I have an idea what could be another reason why that chain gliding happens. Look at a Rohloff sprocket and compare with a Sturmey Archer sprocket:
Do you think that the different profile of the teeth causes the problem?
Hmm wait,
this is what grin says about Statorade:
"Will this work in geared hub motors or mid-drive motor systems?
No, not really. Geared hub motors do not have their rotor shell exposed to ambient air, so increasing the heat conductivity from the motor stator to the rotor does not help get the heat to ambient air outside. Similarly, most mid-drive motors (like the Bafang BBSXX) are inrunners, where the magnets and rotor are on the inside and the heat generating stator, and conducting heat to them would serve no purpose. The benefits of Statorade are really only present for outrunner motors (magnets on the outside) where the rotor is exposed to air flow."
Indeed, the magnets are inside, so - no Statorade for Bafang Ultra :x
I need another solution...One would need to have a system of air ventilation to the rotor...
this is what grin says about Statorade:
"Will this work in geared hub motors or mid-drive motor systems?
No, not really. Geared hub motors do not have their rotor shell exposed to ambient air, so increasing the heat conductivity from the motor stator to the rotor does not help get the heat to ambient air outside. Similarly, most mid-drive motors (like the Bafang BBSXX) are inrunners, where the magnets and rotor are on the inside and the heat generating stator, and conducting heat to them would serve no purpose. The benefits of Statorade are really only present for outrunner motors (magnets on the outside) where the rotor is exposed to air flow."
Indeed, the magnets are inside, so - no Statorade for Bafang Ultra :x
I need another solution...One would need to have a system of air ventilation to the rotor...
Hey Elias,
Correct, no "statorade" for our mid drives.
Yes, from just the photos you posted, the SA sprocket looks to have a tooth profile that would be easier to jump than the Rohloff. Of course a help would be to change over to an SA sprocket with a couple more teeth. this would change the diameter slightly and at the same time move the sprocket OD outwards a little bit towards your tensioner, I think this would help to keep the chain from jumping...…of course it would also lower your overall gearing a little bit. How is your chain line? no angle is the goal....
Current makes heat, the Grin temperature roll back function is our friend! More volts will take less amps to make the same power, so a 60 volt 50 amp system will make less heat for a given amount of produced wattage. Order a 72 volt battery! :lol:
Seriously, I think you are correct about the field weakening setting being a major suspect for the "rapid rise' in temperature. Once I get everything set and stable with my build, I will get brave enough to try to make some more programming changes in this part of the PR program settings. my last experience in doing so, makes me cautious for this step....
Correct, no "statorade" for our mid drives.
Yes, from just the photos you posted, the SA sprocket looks to have a tooth profile that would be easier to jump than the Rohloff. Of course a help would be to change over to an SA sprocket with a couple more teeth. this would change the diameter slightly and at the same time move the sprocket OD outwards a little bit towards your tensioner, I think this would help to keep the chain from jumping...…of course it would also lower your overall gearing a little bit. How is your chain line? no angle is the goal....
Current makes heat, the Grin temperature roll back function is our friend! More volts will take less amps to make the same power, so a 60 volt 50 amp system will make less heat for a given amount of produced wattage. Order a 72 volt battery! :lol:
Seriously, I think you are correct about the field weakening setting being a major suspect for the "rapid rise' in temperature. Once I get everything set and stable with my build, I will get brave enough to try to make some more programming changes in this part of the PR program settings. my last experience in doing so, makes me cautious for this step....
Daxxie
100 W
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2017
- Messages
- 133
elias said:
I love this frame, for me it has the perfect balance between comfort and precision.
Especially for a fatbike that is used on all kind of terrain.
garyal1 said:
In nomal and heavy use I rarely see more then 70°C
But yes, after a couple of km at ful throttle it reads 90°C
The PR starts to dial back power at 90°C
If you touch the Ultra it still doesnt feel that warm, more like 50°C
I use the original Bafang thermistor that is placed somewhere in the stator.
Don’t know how accurate it is.
garyal1 said:
I know it’s not easy! Have been messing with those settings for months.
Those Com errors I have very frequently but it always seemed to work. At 72V however they get worse!
Only solution so far is increasing throttle minimum voltage so that the Ultra is always engaged. That takes away the judder but it also has some other nasty side effects.
When I’m back home I will try to play a bit more with it and try your settings
Hey Daxxie,
Yes, I reset all of the throttle voltage changes back to original settings. Not needed at all with the other settings changed as I outlined. I had considered those as "stop-gap" measures. It is not really good to have that throttle set to always have power applied to the motor. Even if it is not enough to move the bike....IMHO.
hmmm: you may have a point about the battery supply voltages effect the programming results! Today or tomorrow, I will hook it up to a 48 volt battery and try it. I hope that makes the "save parameters" function work!
Yes, I reset all of the throttle voltage changes back to original settings. Not needed at all with the other settings changed as I outlined. I had considered those as "stop-gap" measures. It is not really good to have that throttle set to always have power applied to the motor. Even if it is not enough to move the bike....IMHO.
hmmm: you may have a point about the battery supply voltages effect the programming results! Today or tomorrow, I will hook it up to a 48 volt battery and try it. I hope that makes the "save parameters" function work!
More teeth on the rear sprocket would solve the problem of a jumping chain, but the bike would become more or less unrideable.
Yes, I will need another battery. As I don't have the equipment to make one myself (I have so many tools, there must be a limit somewhere of what you hoard!) I have to stick to those packs that are available. With 72 V I couldn't find a pack with 7cm width, which is the max width in the box. 16s8p would fit, which would be sufficient I think. At the moment on a flat street in longest gear I get 55-60 km/h and a cadence which is too high to feel good. Also, there is no smaller sprocket available from SA and no larger chain wheel than 55 for a 1/8 chain. With more power, pedalling would become impossible. But riding only with throttle? I would stick to my motorbikes then...me too has an urge for that bicycle feeling
I see a big advantage in getting rid of high field weakening values and a better range with 60V, that will be fine.
Anyway, If I raise my max speed significantly higher, I'm afraid that I will attract more attention on the german streets than I want
Today cruising on an idyllic "Radwanderweg", which is a path through a nature area which is allowed for walkers and bicycle travellers, I got many disaproving glances of elderly people...
Yes, I will need another battery. As I don't have the equipment to make one myself (I have so many tools, there must be a limit somewhere of what you hoard!) I have to stick to those packs that are available. With 72 V I couldn't find a pack with 7cm width, which is the max width in the box. 16s8p would fit, which would be sufficient I think. At the moment on a flat street in longest gear I get 55-60 km/h and a cadence which is too high to feel good. Also, there is no smaller sprocket available from SA and no larger chain wheel than 55 for a 1/8 chain. With more power, pedalling would become impossible. But riding only with throttle? I would stick to my motorbikes then...me too has an urge for that bicycle feeling
I see a big advantage in getting rid of high field weakening values and a better range with 60V, that will be fine.
Anyway, If I raise my max speed significantly higher, I'm afraid that I will attract more attention on the german streets than I want
Today cruising on an idyllic "Radwanderweg", which is a path through a nature area which is allowed for walkers and bicycle travellers, I got many disaproving glances of elderly people...
Hey Elias,
Thanks for that! You may have found my problem for me with the programming. How about 1 rad? Let us know if you have a good result with leaving rads at 1000...
For me Good result = NO judder.
The reason I am so interested in YOUR results is because my build has a design flaw because I have to remove my battery, remove 8 button head screws and one cover to get access to the PR. I have to do SOMETHING about this. At least a viewing windows so I can see the LED on he PR to know if it throws a fault code. Plus I do not want to lose my successful program settings.
Thanks for that! You may have found my problem for me with the programming. How about 1 rad? Let us know if you have a good result with leaving rads at 1000...
For me Good result = NO judder.
The reason I am so interested in YOUR results is because my build has a design flaw because I have to remove my battery, remove 8 button head screws and one cover to get access to the PR. I have to do SOMETHING about this. At least a viewing windows so I can see the LED on he PR to know if it throws a fault code. Plus I do not want to lose my successful program settings.
Perhaps you need to try setting the pole count to 4 pole pairs and volt/rpm to 90 then redo the auto tune. The reason I suggest this, is someone posted that this auto tune setup will produce a valid tune at a lower motor rpm.
At the time I read it, I remember thinking, why would you want less motor speed? Now it may be a sensible alternative for you to get a more realistic pedal cadence...I assume you could do this but still retain the same wattage / power.
At the time I read it, I remember thinking, why would you want less motor speed? Now it may be a sensible alternative for you to get a more realistic pedal cadence...I assume you could do this but still retain the same wattage / power.
Didn't work either. But I didn't ride it so far, will post results with 1000 rads later.garyal1 said:
I bought thisgaryal1 said:
and two of those
for like 5 euros together, cut the first in two pieces, solderd the ends to the panel jacks and made "signal exits" out of my frame. Now I have an easy access to CA and Phaserunner.
Yeah, why?garyal1 said:...why would you want less motor speed? Now it may be a sensible alternative for you to get a more realistic pedal cadence...I assume you could do this but still retain the same wattage / power.
You are right. Yesterday night I thought: what the heck, the 1/8 chain will run on a 3/32 chain wheel as well. 58 teeth should be nice. Who cares about service live?I'm not happy with my chinese battery. I mean, you can't expect too much from a 52V 20Ah battery that costs 350 from door to door...
But still, the thing doesn't last more then 25km under max assist
With my settings I'm not satisfied either. Gary, since I changed to your suggestions (but 1000rads) I sometimes have the phenomenon that after a gear change, the engine stays off. So suddenly no assist, when you need it the most. I have to wait for like 5 secs, and then it works again. I will switch back to my previous settings as Daxxie suggested...
elias
But still, the thing doesn't last more then 25km under max assist
With my settings I'm not satisfied either. Gary, since I changed to your suggestions (but 1000rads) I sometimes have the phenomenon that after a gear change, the engine stays off. So suddenly no assist, when you need it the most. I have to wait for like 5 secs, and then it works again. I will switch back to my previous settings as Daxxie suggested...
elias
Update:
I took the bike this week to get to work. Thats 24km one way - not flat, not with real mountains, but nice up and downs and some fast straight roads too. Monday was over 45min with all the stops to get things tight and hussle with CA settings and so on. I tried different settings almost every ride. Today as yesterday I needed 30min for the distance which is quite a nice time for the trip. Max speed was 67km/h so far.
I love my suspension and regret not a minute of all the work I put into it. The USD-8 has 220mm travel and my rear should have around 180mm as well. On my way to work there is a really nasty section on a (tarmac)farm track where you fly downhill with 60 and in the bottom there is a curve and in the middle of that is something like a deep water channel crossing the farm track in an angle of maybe 45°. On any bike i rode until now I would have been thrown down into the hedges without braking down to like 15 km/h. I would'nt trust my Yamaha DT2 going through that with 60 and even though it's a classic motorcycle it's still an offroad bike! With that ebike I don't brake. (Hmmm, really sounds like showing-off, but it's true. Amazing what suspension you can buy for around 450€)
The settings I found yesterday night do really work great for me, the power flow today was smooth but strong in the lowest level of PAS, I now have a nice "kick" when I need power via throttle, the overall trip was fast and the battery had some energy left. It's like cold fusion or something No really, I recommend these settings for the CA
The settings for the phaserunner didn't change except "Torque up ramp" is 100ms now and "max field weakening current" is 23,5 now (I know, I know... temperature rose to a max of 128°C, but as Gary wrote, the CA handles it well and in the end the temp settles around 90-100°C. - talking about 24km with a speed rarely under 45km/h, so almost all the time with 1000W up to 1400W)
The rear brake disc loosened once even though I used the original magura screws and tightened them properly with a torque meter. That 180mm magura disc gets hot as hell! In front I use a shimano ice tec 203mm disc, which takes more of the energy, but stays significantly cooler. My conclusion: put a similar 203mm ice tec disc on the rear wheel.
One other thing: I bought that strange and cheap (12€) saddle from china via Ebay to test it. Reasons are obvious, aren't they?
However, it works quite well. Of course you have to get used to it and I don't want to sit on it for 150km, but it works - no problems whatsoever after cycling.
Did some slight changes at the rear:
-changed angle of chain tensioner. As the chain now uses even more of the teeth of the sprocket, it doesn't jump any more.
-the short mudguard did let lots of mud be thrown on the chain and the engine. I found an old mudguard from my sons former bike which is usually fixed under the triple tree and fixed that on the swing arm. The two pieces of the mud guard now slide into another when the suspension is working and the dirt is kept away from the center of the bike. Yes, it looks a bit strange...
I tell you, riding this every morning really saves your day!
I took the bike this week to get to work. Thats 24km one way - not flat, not with real mountains, but nice up and downs and some fast straight roads too. Monday was over 45min with all the stops to get things tight and hussle with CA settings and so on. I tried different settings almost every ride. Today as yesterday I needed 30min for the distance which is quite a nice time for the trip. Max speed was 67km/h so far.
I love my suspension and regret not a minute of all the work I put into it. The USD-8 has 220mm travel and my rear should have around 180mm as well. On my way to work there is a really nasty section on a (tarmac)farm track where you fly downhill with 60 and in the bottom there is a curve and in the middle of that is something like a deep water channel crossing the farm track in an angle of maybe 45°. On any bike i rode until now I would have been thrown down into the hedges without braking down to like 15 km/h. I would'nt trust my Yamaha DT2 going through that with 60 and even though it's a classic motorcycle it's still an offroad bike! With that ebike I don't brake. (Hmmm, really sounds like showing-off, but it's true. Amazing what suspension you can buy for around 450€)
The settings I found yesterday night do really work great for me, the power flow today was smooth but strong in the lowest level of PAS, I now have a nice "kick" when I need power via throttle, the overall trip was fast and the battery had some energy left. It's like cold fusion or something
No really, I recommend these settings for the CAThe settings for the phaserunner didn't change except "Torque up ramp" is 100ms now and "max field weakening current" is 23,5 now (I know, I know... temperature rose to a max of 128°C, but as Gary wrote, the CA handles it well and in the end the temp settles around 90-100°C. - talking about 24km with a speed rarely under 45km/h, so almost all the time with 1000W up to 1400W)
The rear brake disc loosened once even though I used the original magura screws and tightened them properly with a torque meter. That 180mm magura disc gets hot as hell! In front I use a shimano ice tec 203mm disc, which takes more of the energy, but stays significantly cooler. My conclusion: put a similar 203mm ice tec disc on the rear wheel.
One other thing: I bought that strange and cheap (12€) saddle from china via Ebay to test it. Reasons are obvious, aren't they?
However, it works quite well. Of course you have to get used to it and I don't want to sit on it for 150km, but it works - no problems whatsoever after cycling.
Did some slight changes at the rear:
-changed angle of chain tensioner. As the chain now uses even more of the teeth of the sprocket, it doesn't jump any more.
-the short mudguard did let lots of mud be thrown on the chain and the engine. I found an old mudguard from my sons former bike which is usually fixed under the triple tree and fixed that on the swing arm. The two pieces of the mud guard now slide into another when the suspension is working and the dirt is kept away from the center of the bike. Yes, it looks a bit strange...
I tell you, riding this every morning really saves your day!
Hey Elias,
(I think you mean "makes your day")
Looks to me like you will have a speeding ticket before too long.
Your bike is a work of art AND it handles well! I am jealous about your full suspension. It takes a strong frame like you designed and built with all that travel both front and rear in order take an off-camber corner thru a creek at 45KPH. Although, my Frey AM1000 frame is very solid and stable at power and speed, it IS a hardtail and I will never see that kind of performance. Personally, I think your sliding two piece fender is very cool and ingenious.
My bike is basically done, expect for fine tunings the PAS. I am in a holding pattern awaiting the Rohloff from Germany, can you speed things up for me?, then go next door and get my D.T. Swiss rims expedited as well?
I did move my PR programming plug out to where I can get to it. Thanks for that. I did not realize that was just a stereo plug. I had one in my drawer and I just ran it out to sit next to the CA plug. (I am not as talented as you) I did reprogram my PR to down 25 amps field weakening from 30 amps. Thing is still crazy fast with turbo power. My 25 amps on a 60 volt system is less than your 23.5 on a 52 volt system
I have found that the best way to avoid the dreaded Comm error when saving parameters is to 1st read the PR, then make the changes and export it to an XML file. Then shut down the PR by disconnecting battery. Then reconnecting battery and importing from XML and using save parameters without having first used read parameters. on the fresh startup of the PR. Don't ask me why, but by doing this I get a 50% success rate compared to 0% success rate.
(I think you mean "makes your day")
Looks to me like you will have a speeding ticket before too long.
Your bike is a work of art AND it handles well! I am jealous about your full suspension. It takes a strong frame like you designed and built with all that travel both front and rear in order take an off-camber corner thru a creek at 45KPH. Although, my Frey AM1000 frame is very solid and stable at power and speed, it IS a hardtail and I will never see that kind of performance. Personally, I think your sliding two piece fender is very cool and ingenious.
My bike is basically done, expect for fine tunings the PAS. I am in a holding pattern awaiting the Rohloff from Germany, can you speed things up for me?, then go next door and get my D.T. Swiss rims expedited as well?
I did move my PR programming plug out to where I can get to it. Thanks for that. I did not realize that was just a stereo plug. I had one in my drawer and I just ran it out to sit next to the CA plug. (I am not as talented as you) I did reprogram my PR to down 25 amps field weakening from 30 amps. Thing is still crazy fast with turbo power. My 25 amps on a 60 volt system is less than your 23.5 on a 52 volt system
I have found that the best way to avoid the dreaded Comm error when saving parameters is to 1st read the PR, then make the changes and export it to an XML file. Then shut down the PR by disconnecting battery. Then reconnecting battery and importing from XML and using save parameters without having first used read parameters. on the fresh startup of the PR. Don't ask me why, but by doing this I get a 50% success rate compared to 0% success rate.