hi guys,
im new here (this is my first post). i have been building longboards for the last 4 years now (banjo board co.on facebook) and stumbled on boosted boards
! and then the price... 
...
so i thought to myself "hey, i could probs do that myself" (i had just bought a new bosch palm router and needed an excuse to use it), so i set about on a personal project. as i did my research(this is where you guy come in!), i found this site and hobby king, along with all the info and resources i could ever need! the outcome was Banjo board co.'s Witch craft (mk 2)!
i created a shopping list from hobby king consisting of:
2x 3c 4500 mah turnigy nano tech batteries (the slimmest and smallest for the power at 21mm thick)
NTM Prop Drive 50-60 270KV / 2400W (would NOT recommend, first the winding glue melted and came undone and then the internal shaft came unglued and the strator span freely, had to re glue and rewind, and all this after only 5 mins use!)
Hobbyking YEP 150A (2~6S) SBEC Brushless Speed Controller (soft start works well)
hxt connectors
1mtr black 10 gauge wire
1mtr red " "
other hardware included:
12mm square aluminium bar from (ashamedly b and q) £13
m4 bolts (50mm)
m4 nuts locking
m4 threaded bar
50mm washer
36t m5-9 toothed pulley from accupulleys (uk)
20t " "
285mm belt
i started with designing a custom deck (mk1), with 3 plys 9mm thick, with 1" concave tip to tail making it super strong yet still slightly flexible, until i routed in a slot for the cables and it not being deep enough for the 10gauge. i tested it without any hardware in and 'CRACK', i snapped it right across the routed battery section... i didnt bother with pics as it was the 1st prototype, wish i had now...
mk 2 started with 4 plys, 12mm thick, allowing deeper routed sections for the batteries and cables and increased strength across the rest of the board. no matter how hard i bounced on it, i couldn't even get a creak, excellent, i was on my way...
the battery box was cut 9mm deep into the deck, the cable runs the same, the esc and reciver 6mm deep and the run under the trucks 6mm too. the recess for the plate covering the cables was routed 3mm deep. these measurements worked well as i could add or remove the amount of plys i wanted cutting, dependant on the desired depth.
i then set about installing all of the hardware. at first i had small metal straps holding the batteries in (mk1), but they had no protection incase of a bash so built a box around them. the box is 12mm high, plus the 3mm lid. there is a gap for me to hide the cables, finger slot to pull the cables in and out for charging and to make it easier to connect them to the hidden wires. i use a hxt connector looped on itself to finish the circuit (it is wired in series to get 22.2v) which also doubles as a key/circuit breaker.
the esc and reciver are held in with a small steel clip which i bent to shape. i will add silicone to the ends of the esc to make it more splash proof.
for the motor mount, i bought a 1m length of 12x12mm aluminium square bar. i cut this into 2 lengths of 100mm aprox. i then marked either side of the truck (leaving enough room at the end to drill a hole) and ground a square shape out of the 2 sides.. i drilled two 4mm holes either side of the grooves for m4 bolts to hold it to the truck. i ground 2 flat edges to the truck and to the supporting shape to stop the mount sliding or twisting.
at the other end i measured 71.4mm(ish) away from the truck and drilled a 9mm hole with a 13mm taper so the motor locking ring could turn freely. i then drilled 2 holes, 32mm apart, one in either of the pieces of aluminium for the motor bolts. finally i drilled a 4mm hole at the motor end for another m4 bolt, with 5 washers in-between to hold the pieces together.
i then used a scrap piece of steel to make a motor shield that used the mount bolts to hold it on.
for the wheel, i drilled a 20mm hole through the middle of the pulley and 2 4mm holes through the outer edges and into the wheel and 2 through the inner edge and not all the way through the wheel (as they would be in the way of the bolt when trying to hold the wheel to the truck. i drilled a 20mm hole through the middle of the 50mm washer and 2 4mm holes to line up with the other holes. slid the m4 threaded bar through, bolted both ends and cut to length.
put it all together and wala!
i have already thought of some more improvements to the design so will update when i do them
hope you all enjoyed my build and would love to hear your feedback
im new here (this is my first post). i have been building longboards for the last 4 years now (banjo board co.on facebook) and stumbled on boosted boards
! and then the price... ...so i thought to myself "hey, i could probs do that myself" (i had just bought a new bosch palm router and needed an excuse to use it), so i set about on a personal project. as i did my research(this is where you guy come in!), i found this site and hobby king, along with all the info and resources i could ever need! the outcome was Banjo board co.'s Witch craft (mk 2)!
i created a shopping list from hobby king consisting of:
2x 3c 4500 mah turnigy nano tech batteries (the slimmest and smallest for the power at 21mm thick)
NTM Prop Drive 50-60 270KV / 2400W (would NOT recommend, first the winding glue melted and came undone and then the internal shaft came unglued and the strator span freely, had to re glue and rewind, and all this after only 5 mins use!)
Hobbyking YEP 150A (2~6S) SBEC Brushless Speed Controller (soft start works well)
hxt connectors
1mtr black 10 gauge wire
1mtr red " "
other hardware included:
12mm square aluminium bar from (ashamedly b and q) £13
m4 bolts (50mm)
m4 nuts locking
m4 threaded bar
50mm washer
36t m5-9 toothed pulley from accupulleys (uk)
20t " "
285mm belt
i started with designing a custom deck (mk1), with 3 plys 9mm thick, with 1" concave tip to tail making it super strong yet still slightly flexible, until i routed in a slot for the cables and it not being deep enough for the 10gauge. i tested it without any hardware in and 'CRACK', i snapped it right across the routed battery section... i didnt bother with pics as it was the 1st prototype, wish i had now...
mk 2 started with 4 plys, 12mm thick, allowing deeper routed sections for the batteries and cables and increased strength across the rest of the board. no matter how hard i bounced on it, i couldn't even get a creak, excellent, i was on my way...
the battery box was cut 9mm deep into the deck, the cable runs the same, the esc and reciver 6mm deep and the run under the trucks 6mm too. the recess for the plate covering the cables was routed 3mm deep. these measurements worked well as i could add or remove the amount of plys i wanted cutting, dependant on the desired depth.
i then set about installing all of the hardware. at first i had small metal straps holding the batteries in (mk1), but they had no protection incase of a bash so built a box around them. the box is 12mm high, plus the 3mm lid. there is a gap for me to hide the cables, finger slot to pull the cables in and out for charging and to make it easier to connect them to the hidden wires. i use a hxt connector looped on itself to finish the circuit (it is wired in series to get 22.2v) which also doubles as a key/circuit breaker.
the esc and reciver are held in with a small steel clip which i bent to shape. i will add silicone to the ends of the esc to make it more splash proof.
for the motor mount, i bought a 1m length of 12x12mm aluminium square bar. i cut this into 2 lengths of 100mm aprox. i then marked either side of the truck (leaving enough room at the end to drill a hole) and ground a square shape out of the 2 sides.. i drilled two 4mm holes either side of the grooves for m4 bolts to hold it to the truck. i ground 2 flat edges to the truck and to the supporting shape to stop the mount sliding or twisting.
at the other end i measured 71.4mm(ish) away from the truck and drilled a 9mm hole with a 13mm taper so the motor locking ring could turn freely. i then drilled 2 holes, 32mm apart, one in either of the pieces of aluminium for the motor bolts. finally i drilled a 4mm hole at the motor end for another m4 bolt, with 5 washers in-between to hold the pieces together.
i then used a scrap piece of steel to make a motor shield that used the mount bolts to hold it on.
for the wheel, i drilled a 20mm hole through the middle of the pulley and 2 4mm holes through the outer edges and into the wheel and 2 through the inner edge and not all the way through the wheel (as they would be in the way of the bolt when trying to hold the wheel to the truck. i drilled a 20mm hole through the middle of the 50mm washer and 2 4mm holes to line up with the other holes. slid the m4 threaded bar through, bolted both ends and cut to length.
put it all together and wala!
i have already thought of some more improvements to the design so will update when i do them
hope you all enjoyed my build and would love to hear your feedback
