>What troubleshooting steps have already been done? (this will save us from having you do them again, and save us from writing them out)
I have shorted the brake cable
Shorting the brake cable (presuming brake signal to ground?) engages the brake, which prevents the controller from operating the motor. Unfortunately that isn't a step that's useful for troubleshooting a controller that isn't operating the motor.
Ensuring that the brake signal is not connected to anything at all *is* a step that will help, as it means it can't prevent the controller from operating the motor. But since the system operates with the 3v signal as noted above, this step is unnecessary as it means the ebrake line is *not* being engaged.
>What troubleshooting steps have already been done? (this will save us from having you do them again, and save us from writing them out)
I have shorted the ebrake control wire, I have messed the motor temperature settings and all the voltage cut off settings, ran it sensorless, ran the autotune countless times under countless settings, all of those things work perfectly with phaserunner suite
The voltage cutoff settings must match your battery voltage range.
Motor temperature settings must match whatever temperature range you actually need the motor to operate within, based on what you see from the sensor in the motor.
9 pin mains to JST-SM throttle, ebrake, and DC jack cable harness, for basic ebike builds with a version v4 or later controller, without a Cycle Analyst. 60cm long.
ebikes.ca
I'm using this connector which shorts the on/off switch so the baserunner will turn on when the key is turned on, I can confirm that the baserunner does turn on because of the red LED lights up.
Ok. If the red LED lights up, it is on, and *should* have it's own 5v power available. (rather than possibly having to run off of the USB-serial cable's 5v--if the BR was running only off the USB-serial's 5v, then it would not be able to operate when not connected to it).
I don't think the USB-serial 5v has enough current available to run the BR, or if the BR's serial port is wired to be able to do this, but it's still a check that should be done, as if the BR has no 5v to the throttle/etc then they cannot operate.
>If not, is the controller's "keyswitch / ignition" (On/Off) wire (orange, in the WP8 connector, or in the 9pin, AFAIK) *and* the V+ wire (red) connected to battery positive, when the BR is not connected to the USB/serial cable? Whichever connector is used to get V+ and On/Off to the BR you have to leave connected, so you would need to unplug the other one to test it.
I'm not sure what you mean by this, could you clarify?
Well, I mean exactly what was said there, in reference to the specific signal names in the connector diagram. The BR requires both V+ and On/Off to be powered by the battery positive for it to operate. If you don't have battery voltage on both of those signals, it will not operate.
--If there is no battery voltage on either one, it has no power at all.
--If there is BV on V+ but not On/off, it has power to the FETs but not to the brain or throttle or motor halls (via the LVPS inside the BR that turns BV into 5v, etc).
--If there is BV on On/off but not V+, the brain/etc has power but the FETs don't, so they can't run the motor.
Only the second scenario is possible in your case, because it does operate when connected via USB-serial--but since it also operates with the 3v signal as you noted above, it's not what is happening here.
