What point are you connecting the temp sensors to? On the board? What about the other end?Those larger wires go to the windings in the motor to run it. Smaller ones underneath go to the board but you don't need to mess with the wiring just simply solder and add on the temp sensor in line with the speed hall.
The temp data gets to the CA via the BR. The BR has a demux chip to split the two signals apart and send them separately, then the CA just displays them so the BR is doing all the work.
Which controllers are those? In the few dozen controllers I've worked with so far, I haven't seen any "ebike" or "scooter" controllers with this functionality yet, short of the Phaserunner v6 I got recently. (even the Grinfineon I have doesn't).Most controller have a NTC of some kind to reduce power before they get to hot
Ok so here is what zi have going on, I would love your input,Yes it gets connected to the board in the motor. One end to ground and the other end to the sensor connection for the speed hall. That's it.
If you look at the video I sent I explain it in detail. In the photo though you can see the 3 pins next to speed hall(HS). The bottom is power, top left is ground leaving the top right which goes to speed hall. The sensor goes in between the speed hall sensor connection and ground on the board. If you zoom in on the pic you should be able to see.
Thanks for the reply, are you saying the temp sensor upgrade you did would not work with s Z9 plug hub motor? If the battery has a 40 amp BMS (I'm going to have to take it apart as it's a upp battery that might be trash per the findings in the UK) if it's a 40a BMS the BR can max st 30 battery amps right?It just depends on what you are looking for. If you are wanting a bike than can really take off and go with higher power and torque levels then yeah I'd say go for it but again then you would be in the same boat of stressing the battery. If you aren't worried about getting the most power and torque and want to use what you already have I'd go with z9. The only real benefit I could see is a higher phase amp limit for higher torque. The z9 goes to 55a battery and the l10 80a. You won't be going over 55a so you won't be using the full potential of the l10 anyway.
If you ask how much current it can take you get different answers across the board. However, grin says in a video modding a rad runner that the small 9 pin z9 connector has no problem with full 55a phase amps. I've had the battery as high as 45a for a max total wattage of 2kw going into the 500w DGW22C.
Over 1k miles of these levels on this hub and the smaller SX2 from grin without problems. No melted connectors or wires. If you are comfortable taking apart the hub and doing a little soldering, I'd use what you have. As far as the 9 pin mxus in the photos id bet it doesn't have a temp sensor as there is only one wire for speed or temp in a 9 pin connector and they always do speed. Grin and maybe some bafang are the only I know of that come with a temp sensor installed already in parallel with the speed hall or combined speed and temp. The l10 version being it has an extra wire is very possible it has a temp sensor installed but then it's on its own wire and you would need the l10.
From what you were saying what you wanted before, I'd say the z9 should be plenty for you as long as you have a temp controlled hub to do thermal rollback automatically.
Hey dude, a couple of questions. How have the temps been while riding at 1500w on the stock motor? Also, what epoxy have you used to affix the temp sensor?For instance I have my BR set to 55a phase and 40amp battery. However I rarely draw that full amount because in my CA I have 3 different presets. High, medium and low. High is full power which is 2000w, medium is at 1500w and low is 1000w. This way the controller can be set and left alone and any changes can be made on the fly with the cycle analyst versus connecting the controller to a computer to change values.