Bayliner Conversion

[goatman]

got it printing looks like it needs some tweaking figure that out tomorrow



playing around with cura, was trying to stack the pieces but they just mash together
have to see if i can stack them in freecad, be nice to know what they call that function

 

[goatman]

all the parts are 0.2mm-0.3mm smaller than designed
make the changes tomorrow and try again







think its because i had to double circle to punch out the center
and i missed it

 

[ZeroEm]

by goatman » Sep 05 2021 12:16am

all the parts are 0.2mm-0.3mm smaller than designed
make the changes tomorrow and try again

Welcome to prototyping. Keep that smile. :thumb:

 

[goatman]

learning more features but still have to mickey mouse my way around free cad
made a 1 piece coupling





time to print it

 

[nicobie]

Looking good!

You're further along with CAD than I am. Other that the stuff on thingiverse I'm only doing brackets and boxes so far.

What kind of filament are you going to use for that coupling? I just ordered a filament dryer but haven't decided on which CF/nylon filament to buy. It'll probably be Nylon X from Matterhackers @$58/½kilo.

You're aluminum works good and strong.

 

[goatman]

earlier in this thread theres a youtube video of a guy printing carbon fiber on his ender, probably that filament.
having issues with cura, have to uninstall and install to open it then it wont upload this new file to print, it did yesterday but not today :? trying to figure out what the heck is going on might try a different company. its another snoopy company that wants all your info and access to everything in your computer

these are FC std files

***figured it out, had to mesh it, if you dont mesh it doesnt convert, i didnt mesh/convert yesterday, i dont know whats going on there but from their wiki, if you dont mesh, holes print smaller
i just made them bigger


Quoted from FreeCAD
"
Which Method to choose ?
Method 2 is to be preferred. Among the reasons:

When you have more than one Body to convert you can use Tools from Workbench Mesh.svg Mesh Workbench. For example, you can fuse meshes before exporting.
Curved surfaces are represented in STL as a series of straight-line segments, generated via tessellation. This results in slightly under-sized inside dimensions for curved surfaces. If you are exporting to use in 3D-printing, this may result in an under-sized hole, for example. In such cases you may need a finer tessellation value. When exporting from another workbench using File → Export..., the tessellation is controlled by the overall display tessellation set in Edit → Preferences... → Part Design → Shape view. However, because those parameters control the tessellation used to render shapes on the display, decreasing them will slow down display rendering, often significantly. In addition, exporting immediately after changing the display tessellation preference value will not have the desired effect because display tessellation is not updated immediately. One must force a change in the underlying model to cause the tessellation to be recomputed -- for example, by editing a sketch parameter (Setting it to its original value will suffice).
""
itll suck if my bigger holes get small again. find out in 4.5hrs

 

[nicobie]

earlier in this thread theres a youtube video

I couldn't find it, but then I miss stuff.

It might work OK out of ABS but I hear it's about as hard to print as CF or fiberglass nylon.

I'm new at this but I think I'd print that coupling laying down (with supports enabled) to take advantage of layer adhesion. Pretty sure it would snap in half if printed standing up. Kind of like paying atension to the grain when working with wood. Probably have to clean some strings out of the hole too.

 

[goatman]

was thinking about that if i was to stack print 3 files there would be 2 weak spots
then thought the infill pattern might take care of that if its all a 1 piece design

sain smart carbon fiber

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqhcmCrlx8o

 

[nicobie]

Thanks, that's pretty much what I read every where else. I'll check out Sain Smart, hadn't heard of them.

Set infill to 100% for that coupling. Or increase wall count until there's no space left. Couldn't tell you which way is stronger.

 

[goatman]

coupling v2
need a v3 and itll be done



pretty snug, had to tap it on by hand



brass insert is perfect on the 3 tabs but the hole for the body is a little big



cut that extra brass off thats protruding



ill use this for testing though

back to fabricating :thumb:

 

[goatman]

drilled out the upper 2x2s in order to get a socket on the pan bolts



the motor is sitting 1/4 inch too high



while printing the coupling theres a middle section for the set screw that fastens the coupling to the motor shaft, its supposed to be 5mm thick
for some reason its 10mm thick
only need 3.3mm for the countersink screw head

designed the new V3 coupling but i cant attach the file to this post

take 5 hrs to print and cant fabricate til its done
time to design the motor adapter plate, i still have a couple photocopies from earlier

ender3 has a 220mm build plate
problem,
im 222mm on the motor plate



solution
the da85 has another set of motor mount holes slightly inward :thumb:

 

[nicobie]

Looks good!

I've got the parameters in Cura set at 230x230 for my E3.

If it breaks, try printing it laying down. However It might be just fine as it is as you made it nice and fat.

That Sainsmart CF filament gets pretty good reviews and has an attractive price (½ of NylonX). Ordered a roll today. Thanx for the tip.

 

[goatman]

cura wouldnt slice the adapter plate for me, ill try upping it to 230x230. thanks

 

[goatman]

had 2 failed prints, first came unstuck after 2 hours
tried hairspray, 2 hrs later it came unstuck
then tried gluestick and a raft

3rd came out perfect :thumb:










it spins dead nutz true on the shaft :thumb:

now i can mount the motor

lots of room



shifting linkage is hitting the 2x2



will be using these other bolt holes for 3d printed adapter plate
so if you spin the motor a few degrees clockwise itll square off the bolt pattern to center and give the shifting linkage clearance required

 

[goatman]

wasnt that bad to do



got the clearance



going to mount the controller like this



need to go find some countersunk m8x30 bolts to bolt the motor to the plate

 

[nicobie]

Almost time to stick it in the water and test. :thumb:

Did you make that coupling out of that SainSmart cf filament?

 

[goatman]

PLA
cant find countersunk m8 1.25 25mm bolts anywhere local
ordered them from amazon, get them tomorrow but theyre too long, 55mm
the 25mm had to wait til sunday for delivery

 

[goatman]

pulled the impeller
controller has 12v 10a or 15a coming out of it.
those impellers arent very efficient
either use a fan or electric pump



time to try and get the electrical figured out and find out where to get the app from

bought jumper cables from amazon with andersons on them, theyre not tinned copper but itll get it going

https://www.amazon.ca/Booster-Jumper-Cables-Connect-Travel/dp/B08GK7YBMS/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=anderson+jumper+cables&qid=1631064353&sr=8-11

Denzel has a youtube for the da90, my phase arent labelled like that one but ill connect it in the same order

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbbhCIfkSOQ

 

[goatman]

connected Blue to U
Green to V
Yellow to W

time stamped
https://youtu.be/AbbhCIfkSOQ?t=206



that didnt work, try throttle, on/off, forward/rev, nothing but a
loooooooooooooooooong steady beep from controller
going to swap B and Y



still beeeeeep
disconnect throttle jst
beeeeeeeeeeeep stopped

the red and white wires from throttle were hanging out loose when it arrived so i just put them where i thought they should be
put phases back and will swap throttle wires

 

[goatman]

that fixed the throttle but phase was wrong
motor shuttered and jumped 2 inches
swapped phase :thumb:



plugged controller into laptop
no driver available???????

ill email Alex at east gem

 

[goatman]

kit comes with an alarm and wireless power key

unplugged keyed switch and plugged in alarm
had a blue wire with a jst pin hanging loose
plugged it in the jst and get nothing



woder if i need to wire the keyed switch to these 2 left over wires from alarm?



picture of the coupling at 2000?rpm

 

[goatman]

going to print a controller mounting bracket
need to put a hole in it for a fan
would you suck air from the center of the heat sink?

 

[goatman]

designed V1 controller mounting bracket
should be able to mount the fan, dc/dc converter,for/rev, hi/low then all i need to bring out is
throttle
battery
com cable

will take 46.5hrs to print



had the motor running at 2000? rpm for 4hrs today(no load) temp was a steady 103f/ 40 celsius

 

[goatman]

Alex sent me the files for the driver
theyre RAR files
used the windows app store to get their RAR opener

it doesnt work :?

anyone know a good RAR opener so i dont have to keep downloading RAR openers?

 

[goatman]

wound up pulling the pan and running m8 ready rod up where it was possible



m8 countersunk motor bolts



bolted up pretty snuggly
hope the alignment is still good



controller plate is coming along



just need to get that app for testing