BBSHD unused cable removal
- Thread starter gogreenpower
- Start date
If you cut them off, you will reduce the resale value of your motor. Better leave them intact and bind them up with a piece of tire inner tube.
You can cut them off inside or outside the controller. Just be sure to cover the wires with electrical tape so they don't short.
If you cut off the speed sensor cable, you will have to reprogram the display not to time off.
??? What are you calling the headlight connector? The gear sensor connector?
You can cut them off inside or outside the controller. Just be sure to cover the wires with electrical tape so they don't short.
If you cut off the speed sensor cable, you will have to reprogram the display not to time off.
??? What are you calling the headlight connector? The gear sensor connector?
gogreenpower
100 mW
sather said:
Well if that what the other one is than I guess so, I was under the assumption it was for a headlight controllable through the LCD.
You mention reprogramming, it doesn't turn off currently with it not connected, I couldn't see that cutting it would make a difference?
dustNbone
10 kW
It won't disable the drive, but on mine it displays an error code if the motor turns for a few seconds with no signal from the speed sensor. It's blinky and annoying and and doesn't display the watt reading, but it will continue working otherwise normally. I'm not sure how to prevent this (aside from having a sensor connected).
gogreenpower
100 mW
dustNbone said:
That's ok, I'm not planning on using the LCD, I have it on at the moment until my programming cable turns up
WoodlandHills
10 kW
sather said:
Yes, please post up if you are successful...... Running a BBSHD w/o a display while using the OEM internal controller is the Holy Grail of the BBSxx world. Lots of us using the BBSHD off-road would love to get rid of the display, but no one has been able to find a way.... Without replacing the controller, of course.
DuncanS
10 mW
Really, from what I have gleaned of here is that you remove display, short main power pins to turn on at the display plug, then crack on......you can ride the throttle or program to a fixed PAS level. Search for Kepler CAv3 mod or look on youtube at Crazy Bruno 'More Power' thrashing a fatbike with no display.....
Dogboy1200
100 W
Kepler shows how to do it here https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=60375&start=100. About halfway down the page. I tried it and it worked fine. I just bought a spare harness from Luna and cut it up. I just soldered the orange and brown wires together (so it's always on when the battery is plugged in) and only wired in the throttle connector. If I have to change the programming I just plug in the old harness. I never use pass so it works great for me.
gogreenpower
100 mW
Dogboy1200 said:
That is exactly what I had in mind, minimalistic as possible
Dogboy1200
100 W
What FS Fat Bike Frame are you using?
WoodlandHills
10 kW
DuncanS said:
What if you live where a throttle is illegal on MTB trails, such as California? Class 1 is permitted on my local trails, but Class 2 is not...... Some people have to use PAS all the time whether they want to or not. I want to do away with the display in order to remove a major failure point. Who wants a minor crash to shatter the display and leave you walking 15 miles from the road.....
Dogboy1200 said:
Yes, the brown and orange wires switch pack voltage going to the controller. You could even place a small switch in series with them to keep the on/off function.
gogreenpower
100 mW
Dogboy1200 said:
It is an Alibaba special, not to bad for the money and for what I was planning on doing to it.
26 Inch Mountain Fat Bike Soft-tail Frame 4.0 Width Tire 24 Speed Aluminum Alloy Frame
http://s.aliexpress.com/VVFVbU7Z
(from AliExpress Android)
dustNbone
10 kW
WoodlandHills said:
You can still do it, you just lose the ability to select PAS levels. You can program PAS1 to whatever speed/current you want, and it will use those settings AFAIK. If you want to keep the display, and the ability to select PAS levels, I'd suggest carrying something you can use to jump the power pin on the display connecter in case your display fails for whatever reason. A little piece 24AWG solid wire should do the trick, the kind they use inside CAT5 cable and the like.
EDIT: I take it back, just checked and the controller side of the cable has male pins. I guess if you don't want to slaughter your display cable you could get an extension from Luna, etc and make a jumper plug with that.
DuncanS
10 mW
WoodlandHills said:
Then you need to provide that information in advance....so you can do away with the display and use PAS but at 1 level which you can program to whatever suits you and not connect a throttle. If you want a multiple levels of PAS then that may be a bit harder. 1 option Keplar suggests is tuck the display away somewhere. He has a pot to adjust his boost / throttle. Maybe you can make up something to trigger the pas and then have a pot to adjust the level?
Or if it is the minor crash cracked display walk 15 miles home that is the issue then have a machine shop make you a metal case to bolt around the display and fill it with silicon as a shock absorber...
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