stevecahill
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Just got my AliExpress Bluetooth BMS up and running with the VMBS app. All seems to work well. Does anyone know if firmware will support readouts in F vers C degrees?
bluetooth BMS?
- Thread starter aethyr
- Start date
stevecahill
10 W
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- Jan 28, 2019
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Sorry, FYI. The US never adopted the metric system. So Fahrenheit is used in the US and all weather temp reports are in Fahrenheit.
Tony reported that he will make available Fahrenheit when I asked him this AM. " It’s on my ‘to do’ list when I get time"
Hello everyone.
I have a smartBMS 24s from Igogogo store. Did anyone analyze the communication protocol between the BMS and LCD ? The 4 communication wires resemble a serial connection (GND, Rx,Tx,VCC).
I want to obtain the working parameters for my own project and I want to leave the Bluetooth connection free for configuration purposes.
I have a smartBMS 24s from Igogogo store. Did anyone analyze the communication protocol between the BMS and LCD ? The 4 communication wires resemble a serial connection (GND, Rx,Tx,VCC).
I want to obtain the working parameters for my own project and I want to leave the Bluetooth connection free for configuration purposes.
flippy
1 MW
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pretty sure the local "pharmaceutical supplier" uses metric. as does everyone in any serious field.stevecahill said:
and i spoke about the civilized world. i have been to the states, it does not qualify. :wink:
topcat36 said:
i have scoped it out a while ago but i have a lack of time to do this. it does allow traffic both ways.
Hi all,
This is my first post, however I've been reading along for quite a while already. Nice forum with loads of interesting info. I have a question to the experts here: I've been installing my 15s 60Ah DIY battery pack in my electric scooter last friday. The pack runs a BMS from lithiumbatterypcb.com. Everything was working normally until today. The scooter runs and charges normally, and cell voltages, temperatures and currents are indicated normallly in the app. However, the Android app crashes when I want to open the View Parameters or Set Parameters page in the xiaoxiang app. This didn't happen the first few days, i could see and change stuff. I can also not lock or disable the output of the BMS anymore. If I press Switch Off in the iPhone app, it simply remains powered on. Same hold for the Android app.
Tried the following:
- Deleted cache of the app and reinstalled app. No change.
- I also bought the iPad app to see whether this would work, but also here everything works, except the Read EEPROM command, it gives an reading error. So it really seeems a hardware issue.
- Opened up the pack, disconnected the BMS for a while and then reconnected. Still same symptoms. Tried this three times.
- Checked wiring. Seems to be OK.
- The SoC of the pack and remaining capacity is now the only thing I can still see, and this appears to be indicated correctly, so apparently the EEPROM contains some info still.
Any clues on how to solve this? I'm puzzled...
This is my first post, however I've been reading along for quite a while already. Nice forum with loads of interesting info. I have a question to the experts here: I've been installing my 15s 60Ah DIY battery pack in my electric scooter last friday. The pack runs a BMS from lithiumbatterypcb.com. Everything was working normally until today. The scooter runs and charges normally, and cell voltages, temperatures and currents are indicated normallly in the app. However, the Android app crashes when I want to open the View Parameters or Set Parameters page in the xiaoxiang app. This didn't happen the first few days, i could see and change stuff. I can also not lock or disable the output of the BMS anymore. If I press Switch Off in the iPhone app, it simply remains powered on. Same hold for the Android app.
Tried the following:
- Deleted cache of the app and reinstalled app. No change.
- I also bought the iPad app to see whether this would work, but also here everything works, except the Read EEPROM command, it gives an reading error. So it really seeems a hardware issue.
- Opened up the pack, disconnected the BMS for a while and then reconnected. Still same symptoms. Tried this three times.
- Checked wiring. Seems to be OK.
- The SoC of the pack and remaining capacity is now the only thing I can still see, and this appears to be indicated correctly, so apparently the EEPROM contains some info still.
Any clues on how to solve this? I'm puzzled...
stevecahill
10 W
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Name of iPad app? Would like to test.
stevecahill
10 W
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iPad version did not recognize my BT BMS. Android only with Android device. Whose BMS do you have?
izeman
1 GW
Wow. Just googled it: (c) Wikipedia
"As of 2018 the United States is one of only seven countries, including Myanmar (Burma), Liberia,[1] Palau, the Marshall Islands, the Federated States of Micronesia, and Samoa[2] that have not officially adopted the metric system as the primary means of weights and measures."
I have a BMS from lithiumbatterypcb. It is printed on the unit. This used to work flawlessly for the past few days, so something is wrong.
I took the whole scooter apart, but couldn't find anything wrong with the wiring. I guess it's a firmware issue. All EEPROM features are crashing both the Android and iOS apps.
I took the whole scooter apart, but couldn't find anything wrong with the wiring. I guess it's a firmware issue. All EEPROM features are crashing both the Android and iOS apps.
eee291
100 kW
Maybe try older versions of the App?
I have like 4 different versions on my PC.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1j7pgg1EBJplfB1uDPVyii4Lo5bUUD0AN
The newest one has a blue icon now...
I haven't looked at it yet though.
I have like 4 different versions on my PC.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1j7pgg1EBJplfB1uDPVyii4Lo5bUUD0AN
The newest one has a blue icon now...
I haven't looked at it yet though.
Here's an app called EbikeX which works with Xiaoxiang BMS and X2 custom controller.
Both devices have bluetooths so the parameters from both devices are displayed.
https://youtu.be/pmpvbeYFNno
It's still under development but all parameters from BMS will be available as floating windows. So far it's only in polish language.
Both devices have bluetooths so the parameters from both devices are displayed.
https://youtu.be/pmpvbeYFNno
It's still under development but all parameters from BMS will be available as floating windows. So far it's only in polish language.
eee291
100 kW
Bazz0847 said:The newest version works as a charm! Superthanks!
Where did you get that one?
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=88676&start=675#p1405619
Page 28 of this thread.
The manufacturer always keeps this link updated with the newest version.
_______
Maybe someone needs to make a new Bluetooth BMS thread with links and tutorials or something like that...any volunteers?
trazor
100 W
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- Jan 13, 2015
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- 171
Hi Mates. I'm having a new kind of problem with a 20s bluetooth BMS ( https://es.aliexpress.com/item/20S-72V-or-84V-Lithium-Ion-battery-Smart-BMS-with-UART-communication-port-Li-ion-battery/32820588136.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.274263c0EDoQXK )
The problem I noticed first is that when I put a 300W dummy load, the BMS got stupid hot, about 60 C (discharging from the C- port, as per recommended by the dealer)
Ok, then I continued thesting and played with the FET switches, to control the charge and discharge FETS. These don't do anything!
It is like they are always passing energy.
I said, ok, maybe I'm doing something wrong with these switches, let's trigger a low cell voltage so the BMS will cut the load. The cell LV flag is signaled but my load (row of 12v lights) continue to be on. So... what is happening here?
This is not my first BMS of this kind, so I think I've done the connections right. Any ideas?
I attached an image that shows all fets off and still amps flowing (and I can see my light on). Any ideas on how to fix it? I've brought this a year ago and kept it on the shelf, unused until now, so I can't contact the dealer (James) and ask for an exchange now that so much time passed.
Another unusual thing is that when I connect the serial module, a hissing sounds comes from the BMS. The Blueotooth does the same but I think it gets to sleep some seconds later because the hiss stops. Other similar BMS didn't show this behaviour.
The problem I noticed first is that when I put a 300W dummy load, the BMS got stupid hot, about 60 C (discharging from the C- port, as per recommended by the dealer)
Ok, then I continued thesting and played with the FET switches, to control the charge and discharge FETS. These don't do anything!
It is like they are always passing energy.
I said, ok, maybe I'm doing something wrong with these switches, let's trigger a low cell voltage so the BMS will cut the load. The cell LV flag is signaled but my load (row of 12v lights) continue to be on. So... what is happening here?
This is not my first BMS of this kind, so I think I've done the connections right. Any ideas?
I attached an image that shows all fets off and still amps flowing (and I can see my light on). Any ideas on how to fix it? I've brought this a year ago and kept it on the shelf, unused until now, so I can't contact the dealer (James) and ask for an exchange now that so much time passed.
Another unusual thing is that when I connect the serial module, a hissing sounds comes from the BMS. The Blueotooth does the same but I think it gets to sleep some seconds later because the hiss stops. Other similar BMS didn't show this behaviour.
eee291
100 kW
If you turn off discharge Mosfets only the row near the shunt resistors will turn off so its one of those Mosfets. The opposite row of FETs is for over-voltage/charge protection.
I would remove the heat-sink and check which Mosfet gets hot, snip off the legs of that FET and see if can turn the load off now.
If current handling ends up being too low from removing more than one Mosfet I'd look into replacing the whole row.
I would remove the heat-sink and check which Mosfet gets hot, snip off the legs of that FET and see if can turn the load off now.
If current handling ends up being too low from removing more than one Mosfet I'd look into replacing the whole row.
trazor
100 W
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You guys were right. I touched every mosfet on one side and one was much hotter and marked it. I took out five mosfets and tested them and the marked one was shorted. They are HY3410.
Now I've another problem, I think I burnt the logic stage
On the board I found (left from the previous operation) a tiny blob of solder between source and gate (in fact, the tiny resistor before one gate leg) and the board was energized, so I think 80V went to the source lane. Now the board does not connect thru the serial port. I fried it right?
I've another similar board destroyed (this time, while riding) https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=88676&p=1441227#p1441227
Maybe the logic stage on that board works and I can take spare parts from there and try to do SMD by hand. But I've no idea what parts can be toasted. All looks good. Now the hissing sound is gone (it came from the logic stage part)
Now I've another problem, I think I burnt the logic stage
On the board I found (left from the previous operation) a tiny blob of solder between source and gate (in fact, the tiny resistor before one gate leg) and the board was energized, so I think 80V went to the source lane. Now the board does not connect thru the serial port. I fried it right?
I've another similar board destroyed (this time, while riding) https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=88676&p=1441227#p1441227
Maybe the logic stage on that board works and I can take spare parts from there and try to do SMD by hand. But I've no idea what parts can be toasted. All looks good. Now the hissing sound is gone (it came from the logic stage part)
Mormegil83
1 µW
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- Apr 16, 2019
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- 3
Hello everyone! First time poster here! I've been sourcing parts for an old Honda CBR450 conversion for about a year now as I come across deals, and harvest lithium cells. I've almost got all the cells I need and it is soon time to start building. I should end up with 72v 40ah battery of reclaimed 18650 laptop battery cells to power my Perm Motor GMBH PMG 132-43 (72v=7.2kw constant) and Alltrax AXE7245E (450a Max) just looking for a back road commuter about 30miles round trip.
Just to put the question up front, does anyone know if any of these bluetooth BMS models can handle 72v at peaks of 450a and deliver the CAN signal to a TC Elcon 1.8kw 72v Lithium charger from AliExpress?
US $230.80 | On sale 1.8KW 48V60V72V96V TC ELCON Charger for 3.7v Lithium Battery Pack for Scooter,EV,car, truck
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bUcCtKvi
I read this thread a few weeks ago and catch up on it every so often. So I hope I didn't miss or forget what I'm about to ask. This thread, and forum all around, have been a terrific research for a a diyer such as myself!
So that's the background. Now for BMS. I sourced some parts from AliExpress and was planning on using the bluetooth 1amp active equalizer rather than full BMS, thinking redistributing the power would help my reclaimed cells get an extra mile or two, or charge a bit faster rather than just burn down to the lowest cell voltage and still have monitoring and some safety relay shut offs. Then I saw a tc Elcon 1.8kw lithium charger on sale on AliExpress and $50+ off thought I'd finally pull the trigger and commit to an on board charger. Problem now is that the charger is CAN. I knew that from the listing but figured I'd be able to research my way to figure out exactly what all that requires, and I understand the concept and that it needs a constant signal to tell the charger what to do, but I'm having trouble finding a descent and inexpensive way to deliver that signal. I'm willing to go away from the balancer to a more traditional BMS but cannot find any information regarding the CAN protocol and whether or not these BMS are capable and/or compatible to deliver the signal. At this point I'd be willing to spend around $100 for BMS or some way to deliver the CAN signal, or just cut my losses, sell the charger on eBay, and reorder a charger that is just ENABLE, rather than CAN. I'm also up for any suggestions BMS or otherwise.
Thank you for all the info already provided on the forum, and for any advice you can offer.
Just to put the question up front, does anyone know if any of these bluetooth BMS models can handle 72v at peaks of 450a and deliver the CAN signal to a TC Elcon 1.8kw 72v Lithium charger from AliExpress?
US $230.80 | On sale 1.8KW 48V60V72V96V TC ELCON Charger for 3.7v Lithium Battery Pack for Scooter,EV,car, truck
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bUcCtKvi
I read this thread a few weeks ago and catch up on it every so often. So I hope I didn't miss or forget what I'm about to ask. This thread, and forum all around, have been a terrific research for a a diyer such as myself!
So that's the background. Now for BMS. I sourced some parts from AliExpress and was planning on using the bluetooth 1amp active equalizer rather than full BMS, thinking redistributing the power would help my reclaimed cells get an extra mile or two, or charge a bit faster rather than just burn down to the lowest cell voltage and still have monitoring and some safety relay shut offs. Then I saw a tc Elcon 1.8kw lithium charger on sale on AliExpress and $50+ off thought I'd finally pull the trigger and commit to an on board charger. Problem now is that the charger is CAN. I knew that from the listing but figured I'd be able to research my way to figure out exactly what all that requires, and I understand the concept and that it needs a constant signal to tell the charger what to do, but I'm having trouble finding a descent and inexpensive way to deliver that signal. I'm willing to go away from the balancer to a more traditional BMS but cannot find any information regarding the CAN protocol and whether or not these BMS are capable and/or compatible to deliver the signal. At this point I'd be willing to spend around $100 for BMS or some way to deliver the CAN signal, or just cut my losses, sell the charger on eBay, and reorder a charger that is just ENABLE, rather than CAN. I'm also up for any suggestions BMS or otherwise.
Thank you for all the info already provided on the forum, and for any advice you can offer.
flippy
1 MW
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- Aug 12, 2015
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- 2,351
byh locking to this charger you shot yourself in the foot. getting a bms that can talk to this specific charger is going to be WAY more expensive then whatever you tried to save with any other component in this build.
first: for proper 300+ amps you need to replace the mosfets with real ones instead of the fake chinese ones.
for these currents i would not use the discharge side of these bms's and just use it on the charger side and just use a dumb charger. and rely on a fat 750A fuse for safety.
dont worry about any inbalance. if you have good cells the 250mA the bms can do is plenty to keep everything even.
considering the pricing of these components i do wonder why you have not just bought new cells?
first: for proper 300+ amps you need to replace the mosfets with real ones instead of the fake chinese ones.
for these currents i would not use the discharge side of these bms's and just use it on the charger side and just use a dumb charger. and rely on a fat 750A fuse for safety.
dont worry about any inbalance. if you have good cells the 250mA the bms can do is plenty to keep everything even.
considering the pricing of these components i do wonder why you have not just bought new cells?
Mormegil83
1 µW
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2019
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- 3
Thank you, flippy! I've found your comments and advice very useful throughout this thread, and you have basically confirmed what I suspected regarding the TC Elcon CAN charger, and regarding the Chinese BMS models discussed here.
As for new cells... I originally was going to do a less powerful build on a shoe string budget when I started the initial brainstorm last March, and quickly learned a big battery for anything more than a bicycle will be the most expensive single component of the build. I work for a large healthcare company and hit up some friends from IT for any laptop batteries being disposed. Then I started hitting up big box home improvement and electronic stores if they allowed me to dig through their battery recycle bins. So free cells are a big cost savings. I've very patient and vigilant and have been able to find many other components for great deals. Motorcycle frame with title $20, Alltrax controller $250, perm motor $275, it's coming down to the nitty gritty of the energy charging and storage components that I'm having trouble sourcing used or cheap, but all I need to bolt everything together really is the charging solution and whatever components I need for the battery to work with the charger (CAN BMS or whatever I end up with.) I should have enough cells to get to and from work ,20miles round trip/back road speeds, but would really prefer a descent on board charger. So I don't make a mistake and not have enough juice to get back home lol! I'm just really having a hard time finding details on chargers and CAN in general and BMS (present thread excluded!)
If anyone has suggestions for a cost effective CAN BMS that can peak 450a please dm me, or if there is another way to communicate to the TC Elcon CAN, or if there is another good on board charging solution that will charge a 72v 30-50ah battery made of old laptop 18650 cells. I'll probably start a new thread to pose this question. So we can stay on topic here.
As for new cells... I originally was going to do a less powerful build on a shoe string budget when I started the initial brainstorm last March, and quickly learned a big battery for anything more than a bicycle will be the most expensive single component of the build. I work for a large healthcare company and hit up some friends from IT for any laptop batteries being disposed. Then I started hitting up big box home improvement and electronic stores if they allowed me to dig through their battery recycle bins. So free cells are a big cost savings. I've very patient and vigilant and have been able to find many other components for great deals. Motorcycle frame with title $20, Alltrax controller $250, perm motor $275, it's coming down to the nitty gritty of the energy charging and storage components that I'm having trouble sourcing used or cheap, but all I need to bolt everything together really is the charging solution and whatever components I need for the battery to work with the charger (CAN BMS or whatever I end up with.) I should have enough cells to get to and from work ,20miles round trip/back road speeds, but would really prefer a descent on board charger. So I don't make a mistake and not have enough juice to get back home lol! I'm just really having a hard time finding details on chargers and CAN in general and BMS (present thread excluded!)
If anyone has suggestions for a cost effective CAN BMS that can peak 450a please dm me, or if there is another way to communicate to the TC Elcon CAN, or if there is another good on board charging solution that will charge a 72v 30-50ah battery made of old laptop 18650 cells. I'll probably start a new thread to pose this question. So we can stay on topic here.
trazor
100 W
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- Jan 13, 2015
- Messages
- 171
Mormegil83 said:
Usually you don't need communication from charger to BMS. The charger just need to provide the power and stop when reaches max voltage. If the BMS considers there is any risk on the charge (over voltage, max temp, etc), it will open the circuit using onboard mosfets.
The usual lithiumbatterypcb.com bluetooth BMS do not reach 400 A discharge with the included mosfets. As flippy suggested, the best is to skip the BMS for the load (controller) and connect it in parallel only for charging batteries, using only the balancing, monitoring via bluetooth and charging protection functionality.
Here is a less powerful onboard charger that does not need any kind of signal to start delivering power: http://www.eastgem.net/on-board-charger.html
