Brushless dual 6kw ALIEN Power system - electric longboard

Just got the Deville wheels today and wanted to share some initial impressions.
The good news is that the alien kit pulley will fit the wheels.
The bad news is that I've been busy, so I haven't been able to try out the board with the new wheels yet.

The Deville wheels are stone ground, as opposed to the flywheels which are smooth out of the box.
The devilles seem to only come in 83mm/80a and pretty much have a core shape identical to the flywheels. The cores on the deville are the same diameter as the flywheel cores - 46mm
The deville wheels have rounded lips, and the urethane seems to be good quality. Just as a comparison, I have 80a otang baluts on another board, and the otangs feel softer than the devilles.
I measured the wheels, and they are about 53mm wide with a contact patch of about 48mm.
I changed to 9/16 risers on my board, and there doesn't seem to be any possibility of wheel bite with the stock holey bushings. I'm 115 lbs.

Here are a couple pictures of the wheel setup:

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Oh also, the motor in the picture above is new - I changed to a Tacon bigfoot 160 245kv - it's a 6364 size motor. It has an 8mm shaft so I didn't need to order a new pulley, and I found it on ebay for cheap. The power seems pretty good and the motor seems to have a higher top speed than the 270kv 5065 I had before even though the kv rating is lower. There are black marks on the wheel which are from the belt rubbing against the wheel. I made a couple changes, and the belt shouldn't be touching the wheel anymore.

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In the picture above, you can see that the belt just clears the inside of the wheel.
With all the changes to the board, the weight went up 1 pound to 11.5 lb (5.22 kg), but it still feels pretty light.
 

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Toddy - What kind of board you are using? Are you using any risers? My current board I am using a 1" Riser to get enough clearance for the motor to not bite. It's because of the board that I have it's not a flat bottom it actually curves on the bottom so there is not much clearance. I have a dual motor setup 60mm as well.

What was your reason for switching over to the Deville wheels and do you like them better? How much did you pay for your motor?

What battery are you using 10S? Have you also tried taking it up hills? How well is it doing?
 
torqueboards said:
Toddy - What kind of board you are using? Are you using any risers? My current board I am using a 1" Riser to get enough clearance for the motor to not bite. It's because of the board that I have it's not a flat bottom it actually curves on the bottom so there is not much clearance. I have a dual motor setup 60mm as well.

What was your reason for switching over to the Deville wheels and do you like them better? How much did you pay for your motor?

What battery are you using 10S? Have you also tried taking it up hills? How well is it doing?

Toddy616 said 9/16 riser, 6S (his ESC is only 6S max) in previous posts. I'm surprised you need so much rise to not get bite - are you sure it's motor bite and not wheel bite? Must be an awful lot of cave in the deck if you do and maybe beetbocks needs to offer another clamp designed for the deeply concaved boards - can you post a photo showing how close your motor is? 1" is an annoyingly large amount of rise for a board you want to e-freeride on (depending on your tastes)
 
Of course - Concave would not change the motor bite since the trucks always mount at the closest point anyway - not really thinking there.

So I guess the real question is whether Holey trucks are being used - if so can the Alien bracket be mounted as an outrigger instead of inboard so it doesn't foul on the board? I'm doing this with my Caliber mounts (presumably should work easily well with Alien Caliber mounts) so I can have dual motors on the rear wheels (one inboard and one outboard).
 
Yeah, it's definitely not no wheel bite. A lot of clearance for the wheels. The motor will snag without the 1" risers. It's the board, I wish I would of payed more attention when I bought the board and looked for something with a flat bottom. I'll take some pictures when I get a chance.
 
Anyone able to get the board to come to a complete stop with a sensor less system? The pushing to start is fine, but having to foot brake to stop is not very practical for unseasoned longboarders
 
You don't have to footbrake to stop. The normal RC car ESCs all have braking capabilities. They are however limited on very steep hills when going downhill especially with just 1 motor on 1 wheel when you have 3 wheels rolling like mad because of gravity and the hill's steepness.

If you are on flat ground, they are more the adequate for stopping. I don't ever use footbrake as I use it to commute to work and I wouldn't have any soles left on my shoes if that were the case. I still don't know how to power slide to a stop which is sad IMO. Still need to learn as I go down some steep hills.

I've probably ridden my eboard for about 30-45 miles so far and I don't stop I either let it slow down and/or use the ESC brakes.
 
^ hmmm.. Guess I must have something set up wrong. Need to reach out to Bruno... I have an Alien Power Twin ESC. It is set on 50% braking with one motor (25% when using 2 motors). It breaks fine on hills to slow me down, the problem is when I slow down to a certain speed (say 5km/h) the brakes just let off and no longer engage. I thought this was due to sensorless (same as pushing off to start), but I guess not. Any suggestion?
 
Maybe try updating the firmware using APSpcsetup. It took me a while to figure that one out. Use the SkateHV firmware don't use any of the older softwares as they don't work properly. I'm currently using 40% brake on each motor. My board will come to a stand still when I brake it completely. Unless on a hill going down it will roll down. At times, it may be a little trouble stopping at slow speeds it will just roll longer. Usually I just grab the board with my foot and stop it and ti will stop completely.

Let me know if you have any other issues. So far everything is working good for me. I may try 75% brakes. The only issue I've had is the dang motor mounts falling off when riding with the AlienDrive mounts. I've had pretty much all the screws fall off and I've had to get new screws and attach lock washers on both ends + lock nuts. Although, I'm in SF and the roads get bumpy often.
 
Hi guys
I Think it would be best if you contacted Bruno about this - as we had this same problem and its due to the new APS software not being compatable with the ESC firmware.
If you let bruno know which ESC you have he can tell which software to use and generally speaking its best not to play with the Logic of the ESC as this can damage it .
 
board3d said:
^ Will this firmware work with Alien Power ESC?

Yes, it works with the Alien Power ESC. I have the Twin Motor Alien Power 150A ESC. Should be the same one as you if you have the same thing. Both of the ESC wires from the ESC need to be programmed. I was having issues initially when I received it. One was showing up as a boat ESC and the other was a car. In other words, when I used it only 1 motor was being used for braking which was the car one. I had to update the firmware and the APSpcsetup was the one that did it. I read the directions and they were confusing as well as there were too many different installs to update. I eventually had to figure it out and luckily I did or I would of been :evil: .

Beetbocks - I didn't have any issues with it. It's running fine for me.
 
FYI- I run with 25% brake on both motors- 40% seems very high.. Bboard- i think only one of your ESC is programmed - there are two leads and you must programme each brain individually..
 
beetbocks said:
FYI- I run with 25% brake on both motors- 40% seems very high.. Bboard- i think only one of your ESC is programmed - there are two leads and you must programme each brain individually..

Do you run the 8S or 12S version?
 
to the OP:

What batteries and charger are you using? How are you doing balanced charging internal to the board? Can you post a basic wiring diagram for the full board?

Forgive me but Ive read through the 25 pages and I would like to try and build a similar board, but I havent really found a complete parts breakdown yet.
 
What batteries and charger are you using?
He is using 2x Zippy 8000mah 5S batteries in series to bring it to 10S. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... p_30c.html
He is using the IMAX B6 Charger - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... UINE_.html
* I'm also using the exact same setup. I would of got a dual charger however and with more charging power.

How are you doing balanced charging internal to the board?
There is currently no automatic charging to the board. They are all RC batteries so unfortunately, you would have to disconnect the batteries from the board and charge them with the charger. Not sure, if I understand your ? correctly.

Can you post a basic wiring diagram for the full board?
You can find his wiring diagram here - http://www.aliendrivesystems.com/wiring-diagrams.html. If you know nothing about RC cars then it will be quiet difficult to figure out exactly how the diagram works and how to connect all the wires.

Info above is to the best of my knowledge and how my setup is also setup. Just trying to help others who are stumped like I once was.
 
Hi
Torqueboard- that's all answered correctly- we are looking at trying to supply an all in one unit but that's a while away ..Bruno is also in talks with a battery supplier about some custom packs- that are lighter than the zippy range.. :D
whilechuck- if you look on my website there is loads of videos and photos to help you and a page explaining what you will need..
http://www.aliendrivesystems.com/index.html
feel free to email me or pm me for any other info..
 
hi all
OK here's some photos- drawings of the wood molds I have for battery boxes -as requested..Also photos of my set up..I basically strap all the electronics to a ABS base that is formed using a heat gun and then screwed to the board. The battery's are velcroed in and the cover is velcroed to the battery-its simple and it works- the first board i actually screwed the cover to the board- but i've realised this is not necessary and is a pain when removing cover for charging..With the velcro is pretty simple to charge.
I am thinking i could either supply a sheet of ABS for you guys to make your base along with the velcro /screws and Cover as a complete DIY pack.. I may also vac formed the base (see photo).
So let me know what you all think..I can make some molds but really i need to keep the number down and the covers have to be 'generic'..
Drawings with Dimensions
8s 5800mah zippy compact
batterybox3Dwoodblock8SBLANK_zpsf9524c22.jpg

2x 5s zippy 8000mah
batteryboxvacuummold_zpsca3a1513.jpg

8s battery base-protoype
8Sbase_zps2c9b6f94.jpg


8S set up with velco fastening..
IMG_0971_zpsd5ec7c51.jpg

IMG_0972_zps2aeed257.jpg

IMG_0973_zps41a175dc.jpg

IMG_0974_zps7712b1d2.jpg


10S (dual 5s) battery cover -to be trimmed..
IMG_0978_zpse7e2b58c.jpg

IMG_0722_zps084f752b.jpg

Flanged setup- not required in my opinion.
IMG_0341_zps812e58e3.jpg
 
That's a nice cover, Richard. But it's really not enough in my view. Okay for a prototype, but not for a product. Lipos are fragile and potentially dangerous and need to be protected. Balance your board atop a curb edge. Or hit that curb with some speed. The battery should be protected. The underside of a skateboard is a perilous place.

I'm envisioning the equivalent of one-inch thick wooden sides for the battery box. Other materials could be thinner and lighter, but as strong. The deck is strong and makes a great top, but the bottom needs to be very strong too.

And light, hopefully. :)
 
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