Depending on your present idler design, you could use derailer jockey wheels. There are metal ones, but the plain nylon ones are cheap so could simply be replaced whenever they wear.
Good idea. The more expensive custom replacement idlers have side guards to keep the chain from flopping off. It would be possible to make sheet metal disks if that is an issue, or just a bridge over the idler.Depending on your present idler design, you could use derailer jockey wheels. There are metal ones, but the plain nylon ones are cheap so could simply be replaced whenever they wear.
I will look for them. Fortunately this trike does use 2 separate wheels for the drive and return.The jockey wheels could work - bigger ones would be better. I think something around 18-20t is what a proper idler would be sized at. They are good as they use bearings....
... and keepers that span the side guards, offset enough not to touch, but close enough that the chain can't leave the sprocket when it bounces. You can see examples at T-cycle.Good idea. The more expensive custom replacement idlers have side guards to keep the chain from flopping off.
Good idea. I will keep it in mind - if I *ever* get metal jockey wheels that fit. Perhaps I should ask IRL people at my local Bike Shop. (Gasp! IRL!) I am just fooling. The LBS has been extremely helpful every time, Laughing Dog Bicycles.... and keepers that span the side guards, offset enough not to touch, but close enough that the chain can't leave the sprocket when it bounces. You can see examples at T-cycle.
... and mount it with explosive bolts, so you can eject if the battery lights.800 of 5.57 "notifications" printed on the side of the bike
It is an LiFePO4. No unexpected lighting. That's kinda why it is in a big steel box - because the LiPoly is larger than Lion... and mount it with explosive bolts, so you can eject if the battery lights.