Building the Blue Goose bent trike

Depending on your present idler design, you could use derailer jockey wheels. There are metal ones, but the plain nylon ones are cheap so could simply be replaced whenever they wear.
 
The jockey wheels could work - bigger ones would be better. I think something around 18-20t is what a proper idler would be sized at. They are good as they use bearings. Not sure what the diameter of that stud shaft is, but some combination of spacers and sleeves can get you there. You could leave the plastic channeled roller on the return side since that is not under tension and is mostly to manage the slack chain. This assumes there are two independent rotating idlers - the old TT's actually had a single one with two channels, so the return side chain was, believe it or not, traveling across that roller in the opposite direction of rotation. It worked. Keep in mind I am suggesting all this bas on the original WWTT design from 200 years back - the geometry looks the same but maybe the idler rollers are not only separate, but made of harder plastic? I think they literally used a skateboard wheel for the early ones.
 
Depending on your present idler design, you could use derailer jockey wheels. There are metal ones, but the plain nylon ones are cheap so could simply be replaced whenever they wear.
Good idea. The more expensive custom replacement idlers have side guards to keep the chain from flopping off. It would be possible to make sheet metal disks if that is an issue, or just a bridge over the idler.
 
The jockey wheels could work - bigger ones would be better. I think something around 18-20t is what a proper idler would be sized at. They are good as they use bearings....
I will look for them. Fortunately this trike does use 2 separate wheels for the drive and return.

The current axle bolt is 8mm, and it has the dual purpose of tightening the boom on the trike. I have no idea of idler wheel shaft diameter.
 
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Slowly, slowly the ant eats the coconut.
A steering damper opened a whole new bucket of parts.
I ordered and received a steering damper, measured to ensure it had enough stroke.
Evaluated the mount, and now ordered a bracket for a 1 3/4 inch frame tube.
Now I can order 8mm bolts of the needed length. And lock nuts. There are no places near here that sell metric button head bolts. I will order long bolts online and cut them to length.

I also ordered a rear rack bag. If the battery fits, I may give up my ammo can mount. The can was inconvenient for many reasons.
 
Good idea. The more expensive custom replacement idlers have side guards to keep the chain from flopping off.
... and keepers that span the side guards, offset enough not to touch, but close enough that the chain can't leave the sprocket when it bounces. You can see examples at T-cycle.
 
... and keepers that span the side guards, offset enough not to touch, but close enough that the chain can't leave the sprocket when it bounces. You can see examples at T-cycle.
Good idea. I will keep it in mind - if I *ever* get metal jockey wheels that fit. Perhaps I should ask IRL people at my local Bike Shop. (Gasp! IRL!) I am just fooling. The LBS has been extremely helpful every time, Laughing Dog Bicycles.
 
I received all the parts needed to apply the steering damper. I will machine an L bracket for the final connections. It will get there- really!
I thought it would be nice to mount the 9x6x6 inch battery on the rack instead of an ammo box on the side, and cannot find a system under $100 US. I guess people will have to accept someone with 800 of 5.57 "notifications" printed on the side of the bike.
 
800 of 5.57 "notifications" printed on the side of the bike
... and mount it with explosive bolts, so you can eject if the battery lights.
 
Finally found a commercial rear rack bag large enough for the 9x6x6 inch 14lb battery! And I don't like the way it flexes the whole rear rack and 26 inch wheel. I will stick with the big metal box mounted lower on the side, attached directly to the frame.
 
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