300km/190mi Electric Moped on the Cheap

mrkelkel

1 mW
Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Messages
17
I got this e-moped last year as a village runabout for my dad, as his ride was getting a little long in the tooth.

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It's a Segway-Ninebot N90C, which had a list price of about 5500RMB (860 USD). It came with a 72V 35Ah SLA pack, with an advertised range of 150km. That figure was of course BS, as we saw a max range of around 80km when cruising at its top speed of 60kmh. Energy consumption at full tilt with one rider, a pillion box and dual pannier bags was 30-32 Wh/km, which wasn't bad for a bike weighing almost 200kg.

Eventually Dad got bored with it, claiming that it was a bit too slow for his tastes, and it ended up back in my hands. I could deal with the mediocre top speed (patience is a virtue after all) but the range did leave something to be desired. I wanted a moped-cruiser thing for countryside trips and jaunts to the coast, and it had to be quiet, efficient and cheap. Thus came the modifications :)

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One of the greatest attributes of cheap Chinese e-mopeds is that they use standardized SLA batteries for energy storage, which makes pack replacement a relative breeze. Another plus was that the Segway-Ninebot bikes sold pretty well across China (probably due to their connection with Xiaomi), which meant that there were many lithium pack-builders on the Chinese Internet selling packs with brand and model-specific connectors and mounting points. No more fiddling with soldering irons and building custom wire looms; everything was now plug-and-play. Supposedly.

6400RMB (1000USD) and two weeks later, my pack arrived!

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Its a 74V (20S) 120Ah (8.88Kwh) pack utilizing CATL cells rated at 3C discharge, with an ANT BMS rated for 300A. A Powerpole 50A connector links it to the controller though, so that might need to be swapped out if I ever decide to go for a bigger controller.

It's been split into two parts for "plug-and-play" installation. The bigger pack takes the place of the four 35Ah SLA units under the footrest (floor? cargo area?), while the smaller pack goes under the seat, replacing the two 35Ah SLA units. Its acting as a single complete pack, with 7 cells in the small pack and 13 in the big pack.

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Stripping down the front-end of the bike. The big pack won't fit without removing the plastic bits supporting the seat, and removing those bits require the removal of all the body panels and inner supports on the front end.

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The big pack is now in. It's sized specifically to utilize the existing SLA mounting clamps and trusses, so mounting it wasn't a big deal.

What was a big deal was mounting the small pack within the seat assembly, which presented itself as a chicken-egg dilemma. To wire up the small pack to the rest of the bike, I couldn't have the seat in the way. But to secure the seat assembly to the frame, I had to remove the small pack first, as the mounting bolts had to be screwed in at the bottom of the assembly, and they couldn't be accessed when the small pack was above them.

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Eventually I came up with a workaround. The seat assembly was bolted in place, and the small pack placed within the assembly. The pack wires were fed down the frame through factory grommets in the seat assembly, making sure they were protruding from the bottom of the frame. I ended up using a fibre optic routing kit, as guiding the wires down the chassis by hand and luck was a colossal PITA.

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The pack wires were linked up, and I made a small "wiring burrito" from an old bathmat and velcro to protect the BMS signal connectors from the elements. The Powerpole connector is half-exposed, but they're good with ingress protection so it shouldn't be a big deal. I could end up making a bigger burrito down the road, but it works for now. Its attached high above the swingarm, so impacts wouldn't be an issue.

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And it's done! The lithium pack weighs almost the same as the six SLA units, and energy consumption is virtually identical at 30-32 Wh/km. Theoretical range figures for the 8.88Kwh pack are thus 296-277Km, and real-world testing is backing up those values. Not bad for a bike that costs 11000RMB/ 1700USD in full.

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Checking the remaining capacity and cell voltages on the ANTBMS app. A quick stint to a nearby mountaintop resulted in a 60km trip and a max altitude of 750m. I started the trip from sea level, and with regen braking activated, the trip ended with the pack one quarter empty. So with some heavy climbs and moderate regen braking, I could get a max range of 240Km. I hope my calculations aren't wrong, because that sounds very promising for long (<300Km) flat sea-level trips.

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Taking the corgi out for a spin. She seems to love the new pack as much as I do!

This isn't your typical ES scratch-built masterpiece, but I do think this build proves that building a big-range electric scooter can be a relatively straightforward job. I might end up swapping out the stock 72V 35A controller for an 80A Fardriver, but that's neither here nor there. So for now I'll enjoy my 300Km(-ish) e-moped-cruiser at 60kmh :)

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1000USD for 8.88kwh is a pretty good deal even if its a generic battery, I do not think you could by 9kwh of used oem ev battery for 1k$ a high power rear hub motor would get the pep up nice.
 
calab said:
1000USD for 8.88kwh is a pretty good deal even if its a generic battery, I do not think you could by 9kwh of used oem ev battery for 1k$ a high power rear hub motor would get the pep up nice.

Even if the range degrades to 250km per cycle, and it dies out after only 500 cycles, I would still be getting an effective service life of 125000km, which would be a fantastic value for 1K USD :)

Replacing the hub motor would cause some issues with licensing, as China doesn't allow for changes in the engine number (thus the motor number) unless your engine or motor goes kaput :(
Might end up engraving the old motor number on the new motor...... But thats a whole other can of worms
 
mrkelkel said:
Replacing the hub motor would cause some issues with licensing, as China doesn't allow for changes in the engine number (thus the motor number) unless your engine or motor goes kaput :(
Might end up engraving the old motor number on the new motor...... But thats a whole other can of worms

Lol don't bother, nobody actually cares. If you really are afraid someone would ever check it then you can indeed have it engraved.
Cool build tho, well done. :bigthumb:
Don't be shy and swap a real motor/controller in there. Being able to ride for 300km is nice, but if it takes you 6 hours to do so it loses a lot of its interest.
 
Dui said:
Lol don't bother, nobody actually cares. If you really are afraid someone would ever check it then you can indeed have it engraved.
Cool build tho, well done. :bigthumb:
Don't be shy and swap a real motor/controller in there. Being able to ride for 300km is nice, but if it takes you 6 hours to do so it loses a lot of its interest.

Hey man! I actually got inspired to post my build after seeing your Chinese scooter and sportsbike builds. Absolutely cool rides

The e-moped was registered as a motorbike under the new regulations, which gives it full road legality across the nation :D But it also means its subject to annual motor vehicle inspections :( No more swapping in Mobipus motor-controller combos on a whim like on my old bikes

That said, I nearly got run over doing an uphill u-turn while carrying the corgi and a passenger, so I definitely need more power.
 
The old Lead Acid batteries were much more vulnerable to reduced total energy extraction when used at higher C rates.

So that's the real problem with them.

The cylindrical cells in lithium chemistry still have lingering issues about extraction rates.

To go totally to the other extreme you use the pouch cells because they have big fat tabs to draw energy in and out.

:bigthumb: Seems like an easy upgrade.

As for range... on flat land your losses will be 90% wind resistance. Regen cannot recover that.

This means your trip up a steep hill must be seen as "an exception" because you could get some regen coming down.

That being said a 8.8kwh battery does sound about right for 300km of range.

Obviously the more of it done at 50km/hr the better because aerodynamic losses will define the range.
 
SafeDiscDancing said:
The old Lead Acid batteries were much more vulnerable to reduced total energy extraction when used at higher C rates.

So that's the real problem with them.

The cylindrical cells in lithium chemistry still have lingering issues about extraction rates.

To go totally to the other extreme you use the pouch cells because they have big fat tabs to draw energy in and out.

Huh, learned something new :D

I guess that's why the stock controller is capped at 35A; I still got decent range when discharging at full throttle (35A 1C). The local moped riding hooligans would go with 300A controllers while using 20Ah SLAs, then wonder why they wouldn't hold a charge after a few hard pulls.

The 3C discharge rating for my pack is probably BS as well (20 big rectangular cells instead of 18650s) , but for controller swaps I'm not planning for anything above 1C (120A) to conserve capacity. Cant ask too much from a 1000USD 8.88Kwh pack
 
mrkelkel said:
The 3C discharge rating for my pack is probably BS as well (20 big rectangular cells instead of 18650s) , but for controller swaps I'm not planning for anything above 1C (120A) to conserve capacity. Cant ask too much from a 1000USD 8.88Kwh pack

The secret to the cylinder is the "Jelly Roll" inside.

By rolling the two sheets of a battery together they act as their own physical compression.

A pouch needs to be aware of this, but cylinders do it by default.

But the problem is you are creating these scary little bottlenecks where if a single 18650 cell is "having a bad day" and becoming unable to keep up with the crowd they can stumble and the whole marching crowd starts to roll over the weak cell.

That weak cell then bursts into flames.

With the pouch cells they are built about the same and as long as there were no defects in production (which does happen) they can usually be set up to behave in unison.

Generally use pouches for high C rates and the existing cylinders for lower C rates.

But Telsa has the "new design" coming into production that will cure the bottleneck so we might be able to not worry in the future.
 
mrkelkel said:
Hey man! I actually got inspired to post my build after seeing your Chinese scooter and sportsbike builds. Absolutely cool rides

The e-moped was registered as a motorbike under the new regulations, which gives it full road legality across the nation :D But it also means its subject to annual motor vehicle inspections :( No more swapping in Mobipus motor-controller combos on a whim like on my old bikes

That said, I nearly got run over doing an uphill u-turn while carrying the corgi and a passenger, so I definitely need more power.

Thanks man, glad you posted this build actually, it's very interesting to see someone going for a different objective. Most people are working on maximum power and crazy acceleration but going for the longest range without sacrificing much aesthetics or practicality is very cool and challenging too :bigthumb:

As for the inspections, maybe just make a quick change wiring harness so you can swap controllers in a few minutes.
Accelerations mostly won't impact your range at all since you have such large capacity, so you could go for a 150A programmable controller and simply limit its top speed. This way you'll have great accelerations and still keep almost all of your range.

BTW we have a small wechat ebike group, let me know if you want to join and I'll add you :wink:
 
Dui said:
As for the inspections, maybe just make a quick change wiring harness so you can swap controllers in a few minutes.
Accelerations mostly won't impact your range at all since you have such large capacity, so you could go for a 150A programmable controller and simply limit its top speed. This way you'll have great accelerations and still keep almost all of your range.

Funny you should say that, just put in an order for a 72360 Fardriver a few hours ago 8) 190A max, but I'm limiting it to 150A for now, don't want to risk burning out the pack. I'm also swapping out the tires for black round Pirellis, so I'm sacrificing range for grip and safety, a tradeoff I'm more than willing to do.
 
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mrkelkel said:
Funny you should say that, just put in an order for a 72360 Fardriver a few hours ago 8) 190A max, but I'm limiting it to 150A for now, don't want to risk burning out the pack.

That's great news!
I would'nt worry about the pack, with such large capacity you have A LOT of margin. I bet 3C is the continuous rating of the cells, they can surely tolerate 5C peak, maybe more, without much capacity loss or long term damage. But even if 3C is the peak rating, you're still safe. :wink:
I'd worry a bit more about the motor though, I don't know what yours can take. If it's too weak it'll lose its efficiency, heat more and this might impact the range.
I've added you on wechat, see you soon :wink:
 
Who doesn't like more power? Out with the old,

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And in with the new 8)

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(The ziptie arrangement looks janky, but the Fardriver is bolted down at the top, I could end up making a custom bracket though)

A midnight Taobao session resulted in a new motor 8)

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It's rated at 3000W and up to 120V. It should be enough to handle the Fardriver's peak output of 16kW (84V 190A), but I'll limit it to 11Kw for now to see how the wiring holds up. I'm not that keen with pumping 190A through the 8AWG battery output cables, so I'll see how it fares with 150A (74V, 11kW).

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And it's in! I'm going for a stock sleeper look, which would be helpful in deterring thieves / traffic cops.

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A quick celebratory peel out is in order 8) 8)

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Added a dashcam as well to cope with the Chinese Streets of Rage :oops:

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I'm one step closer to building the Bike of Theseus.... at this rate there won't be anything stock left :shock:
 
mrkelkel said:
Who doesn't like more power? Out with the old,

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And in with the new 8)

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There goes your range!
 
Funny you should say that, just put in an order for a 72360 Fardriver a few hours ago 8) 190A max, but I'm limiting it to 150A for now, don't want to risk burning out the pack. I'm also swapping out the tires for black round Pirellis, so I'm sacrificing range for grip and safety, a tradeoff I'm more than willing to do.



Yeah sure, that sounds neat :) I go by "mrkelkel1212" on wechat
Hello Mrkelkel, I really like your build and I want to make a replica. Please can you give me a quick tutorial on how I can get the fardriver 72360 to work on my bike? I imported a new brandless bike that looks like yours from China to my country and I just received it 3 days back. It rides well but I need more torque. https://m.tb.cn/h.UCpOyb3 here is the link to the brand I bought. uploaded is the battery that came with mine and the controller currently in use.
 

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Hello Mrkelkel, I really like your build and I want to make a replica. Please can you give me a quick tutorial on how I can get the fardriver 72360 to work on my bike? I imported a new brandless bike that looks like yours from China to my country and I just received it 3 days back. It rides well but I need more torque. https://m.tb.cn/h.UCpOyb3 here is the link to the brand I bought. uploaded is the battery that came with mine and the controller currently in use.
Hi there, sorry for the late reply.....

Like the other thread said, you're limited by the maximum current output of the battery, and you're almost at the limit with a 45A controller. When I ordered my battery I specifically asked for a 300A BMS to allow for future upgrades, you might want to consider replacing the battery pack with a more powerful one once it dies
 
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