Can anyone steer me into a controller for this Bosch Hub motor

diver

1 kW
Joined
Dec 3, 2007
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363
Location
Sand hills S.C.
Hi all, old member and have no posted for maybe 10 years when i was messing with ebikes.. I now have a doohan 3 wheel itank moped. I bought it a week ago. I believe it has a sine wave controller that is acting up i believe . Is there a controller out there that i could purchase for the bosch 1800 motor.. I just want to add new throttle control and controller. Excuse my ignorance i believe the motor to be brush less . I never messed with brush less setups at all other than buying ebike kits with controller. Thanks all
 
Upgrades to electric mopeds are difficult because of their wiring harness. It appears that the controller is manufactured to fit a moped/motorcycle harness. I had to rip out the entire harness and construct a new one in order to upgrade the controller. I know of a few suppliers if you need assistance sourcing a powerful decent controller.
 
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Thank you, I found just this morning that my voltage reducer from 60v to 12v has pretty much gone. If i shake wires going into it low voltage cuts on and off.. If a new step down does not fix it , i think i will strip it down get new controller the throttle and rewire the low voltage side.. I like the moped cause the front wheels are made so it tilts on cornering. Totally different ride lol. Again thanks for getting back to me..
 
Yes, since it's a $20 fix, try a new but more powerful step down because of the low quality.
I would investigate the cause of the cutoff (loose connection or internal regulator).
 
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Thank you, I found just this morning that my voltage reducer from 60v to 12v has pretty much gone. If i shake wires going into it low voltage cuts on and off.. If a new step down does not fix it , i think i will strip it down get new controller the throttle and rewire the low voltage side.. I like the moped cause the front wheels are made so it tilts on cornering. Totally different ride lol. Again thanks for getting back to me..

Upgrades to electric mopeds are difficult because of their wiring harness. It appears that the controller is manufactured to fit a moped/motorcycle harness. I had to rip out the entire harness and construct a new one in order to upgrade the controller. I know of a few suppliers if you need assistance sourcing a powerful decent controller.
Could you please assist me to sourcing a new controller. Im fine with re wiring . right now i have to unplug and replug controller harness to controller the get it to work after i shut down for more than 20 mins.. thanks again
 
Here is a picture of controller in it.. Ive looked for a wiring diagram but cant seem to find one for itcont1.jpg
 

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This is on a moped. controller works but always have to unplug and replug it after moped is resting for a while. The wiring in this thing looks like a birds nest. Im thinking id like to get a new controller and rewire moped . Its a dohan I tank moped. This is a 60 volt system. thanks for any help. Moderator if im in wrong area please delete and i will try bike area.. hub.jpg
 

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This is on a moped. controller works but always have to unplug and replug it after moped is resting for a while.
What do you need to unplug and replug? If the controller is working otherwise, then it may be easier to diagnose and correct the problem.
 
Thanks for responding. I have to unplug the harness that has a bunch of wires,, If i knew what that wires did then maybe i could figure it out. Its crazy, has remote to turn on and off. The problem is when i turn it off it still power's the wheel with throttle but after 20 mins no power and wont start till i disconnect the main harness at controller and put it back in ,, lol I cant find a wiring diagram anywhere.
 
I have to unplug the harness that has a bunch of wires,, If i knew what that wires did then maybe i could figure it out.
That is why I dont buy used components! After years the labels on my controller fall off or fade, I make backup copies on paper and digital, being sure I know what each wires function is. For a situation like that, the fastest method and perhaps the best method is to buy a new controller if you can or have stalled in fixing the issue.
 
Id buy one in a heart beat if i knew what to buy. I do not know what one would be best for the bosch motor.Im fine with rewiring the moped .
 
It doesn't list a current limit, and the label is too blurry to read. Based on the wattage they specify, it *might* be 31.25A, 26.7a, or 25A, or could be some other unrelated number. Can't know what it is, unfortunately, making it hard to know if it is useful or not.

Whether that's enough for your usage or too much for your battery, I don't know. Your controller pic doesn't show what it's specs are, or any info I could use to find it on the web; without any data on what you already have, I can't say if this one would be appropriate to replace it with to keep the performance you already have, without damaging your battery, etc.


I couldn't find any data on your motor (or the rest of the system) on the web based on the numbers or shape, etc., so I don't know what kind it is or what it's specs are. General data on the itank moped suggests it's a 1500w system, but voltage isn't listed (except a couple that state multiple voltages). Speed is unknown; some say it's max of 21mph while also stating it is 15mph and 28mph, range claims vary quite a lot as well, so whether any data on the vehicle is trustworthy I couldn't say. Best bet is to ask the manufacturer for your exact model and version (if they even know).



If your motor is a three-phase BLDC motor, and it uses standard hall sensors (UVW / ABC), then this controller can drive it. If it's not BLDC or doesn't have the typical sensors (there are several possible ways to get position data out of a motor, almost all of them "better" than the common way of doing it), then this controller probably can't drive it.

It's probably not sinewave since it doesn't specify that, so it'll be noisier than the original. There are two kinds of sinewave controllers--plain old "lookup table" types that work the same way the typical square/trap controllers do, other than being quieter, and FOC controllers, that drive the motor better (but have to be tuned to the motor to work, where the other kinds work with nearly any common BLDC motor "out of the box").

It does have decent wiring directions (not true of most typical controllers), so the hardest part of installing it would be tracing out all the wiring already on the moped.

Note that if you have any functionality on the moped that depends on your existing controller (such as displays, etc), then you'll have to find alternate devices to replace any of that functionality you want to keep.


If you have specific things you'd like the vehicle to do, under whatever your specific riding conditions are, I'd recommend making yourself a complete list of them, so you can use that to compare different controllers / kits / etc to find ones that will do as many of those things as possible in one.

FWIW, from your info provided so far, I don't see that there's a problem with your controller you already have, just your wiring. Since you have to fix that no matter what else you do, then if you first make a complete wiring diagram of everything exactly as it is now, then just redo each connector, one wire at a time, with new connnectors, starting with just the ones you already know are problems, until everything works, you woudln't have to change anything and go thru all the hassle of figuring out what you have so that you can get something compatible.




48/60/72 Volt 1500/1600/1800 Watt Electric Scooter/Moped/Bike Brushless DC Motor Speed Controller​

Item #: SPD-481500BLDC
Designed for 48V through 72V brushless DC motors between 1500W and 1800W. Replaces controllers with fewer connectors because most of the connectors are optional to use.

  • Operates from 41.5 through 84 Volts.
  • Under Voltage protection 41.5 Volts.
  • Current limiting feature helps prevent controller damage due to over-current conditions.
  • Under voltage protection feature prevents over-discharge and extends battery life.
  • Compatible with standard 3-wire variable speed hall-effect throttles.
  • Dimensions: 8" L x 3-1/2" W x 1-3/4" T
  • There is a top speed adjustable limiter for this controller which is item # THR-LIMITER25
  • There is an adapter to connect a battery indicator to this controller which is item # PSW-ADAPTER1
  • There is a jumper plug to put the 3-speed control onto high speed without installing a switch which is item # JMP-3F1T2
 
Is the existing controller like the one in this pic?
DVaXGJNXUAIwJI3.jpg:large
 
It doesn't list a current limit, and the label is too blurry to read. Based on the wattage they specify, it *might* be 31.25A, 26.7a, or 25A, or could be some other unrelated number. Can't know what it is, unfortunately, making it hard to know if it is useful or not.

Whether that's enough for your usage or too much for your battery, I don't know. Your controller pic doesn't show what it's specs are, or any info I could use to find it on the web; without any data on what you already have, I can't say if this one would be appropriate to replace it with to keep the performance you already have, without damaging your battery, etc.


I couldn't find any data on your motor (or the rest of the system) on the web based on the numbers or shape, etc., so I don't know what kind it is or what it's specs are. General data on the itank moped suggests it's a 1500w system, but voltage isn't listed (except a couple that state multiple voltages). Speed is unknown; some say it's max of 21mph while also stating it is 15mph and 28mph, range claims vary quite a lot as well, so whether any data on the vehicle is trustworthy I couldn't say. Best bet is to ask the manufacturer for your exact model and version (if they even know).



If your motor is a three-phase BLDC motor, and it uses standard hall sensors (UVW / ABC), then this controller can drive it. If it's not BLDC or doesn't have the typical sensors (there are several possible ways to get position data out of a motor, almost all of them "better" than the common way of doing it), then this controller probably can't drive it.

It's probably not sinewave since it doesn't specify that, so it'll be noisier than the original. There are two kinds of sinewave controllers--plain old "lookup table" types that work the same way the typical square/trap controllers do, other than being quieter, and FOC controllers, that drive the motor better (but have to be tuned to the motor to work, where the other kinds work with nearly any common BLDC motor "out of the box").

It does have decent wiring directions (not true of most typical controllers), so the hardest part of installing it would be tracing out all the wiring already on the moped.

Note that if you have any functionality on the moped that depends on your existing controller (such as displays, etc), then you'll have to find alternate devices to replace any of that functionality you want to keep.


If you have specific things you'd like the vehicle to do, under whatever your specific riding conditions are, I'd recommend making yourself a complete list of them, so you can use that to compare different controllers / kits / etc to find ones that will do as many of those things as possible in one.

FWIW, from your info provided so far, I don't see that there's a problem with your controller you already have, just your wiring. Since you have to fix that no matter what else you do, then if you first make a complete wiring diagram of everything exactly as it is now, then just redo each connector, one wire at a time, with new connnectors, starting with just the ones you already know are problems, until everything works, you woudln't have to change anything and go thru all the hassle of figuring out what you have so that you can get something compatible.




48/60/72 Volt 1500/1600/1800 Watt Electric Scooter/Moped/Bike Brushless DC Motor Speed Controller​

Item #: SPD-481500BLDC
Designed for 48V through 72V brushless DC motors between 1500W and 1800W. Replaces controllers with fewer connectors because most of the connectors are optional to use.

  • Operates from 41.5 through 84 Volts.
  • Under Voltage protection 41.5 Volts.
  • Current limiting feature helps prevent controller damage due to over-current conditions.
  • Under voltage protection feature prevents over-discharge and extends battery life.
  • Compatible with standard 3-wire variable speed hall-effect throttles.
  • Dimensions: 8" L x 3-1/2" W x 1-3/4" T
  • There is a top speed adjustable limiter for this controller which is item # THR-LIMITER25
  • There is an adapter to connect a battery indicator to this controller which is item # PSW-ADAPTER1
  • There is a jumper plug to put the 3-speed control onto high speed without installing a switch which is item # JMP-3F1T2
1707866415034.png
 
I going to try and figure out the wiring one more time,lol BUT im thinking i may buy the new controller and accessories you picked out. The screen for speed and battery life does not work as it is. Thank you so much for the info
 
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