Can I Connect Misc Power & Ground Wires to the Controller's Positive/Negative Terminals ?

[dragon]

My old wiring has additional positive & negative wires crudely crimped into the main positive & negative leads from the battery to the controller.
These include the positive & negative wires from the charge port, power wire leading to the front so I'm assuming to the speedometer display & other grounds (DC-DC converter)
I'm upgrading the original tiny battery leads to 4-6gauge wire so can I run the above extra wires to the positive & negative terminals on the controller instead of splicing into the main battery wires?
(background info: 72v LifePo4 24s battery pack & Fardriver controller ND72680 350/680A)

 

[amberwolf]

A thought: If you're upgrading the battery wires, you could add connection points for the devices in question there.



If the wires are connected to the same electrical point, they'll do the same job. As long as the grounds are all the same ground (measures "zero" resistance) to the battery ground, and the battery positive wires are all the same (measures "zero" resistance) to the battery positive, then for low-current devices it won't matter where they are connected to the circuit.

For high current devices, it can matter because the farther away they are from the source, the more reisstance the wires present and the more voltage drop under the high current load.

 

[dragon]

Thank you amberwolf!
I was kinda hoping not to tie into my main battery lines so I was thinking of running 1 extra positive & negative line from the controller to a pair of terminal posts & then connect the misc positive & negative lines to that terminal post. To potentially negate any voltage drop, I would go up 1 or 2 steps on the wire gauge. So would you suggest a distribution block or simple terminal posts?

 

[amberwolf]

Depends on what you want to do now, and how you want to access things in the future (or upgrade things).

I used a distribution block in the "triangle" of SB Cruiser for all my stuff (it all runs off a separate lighting pack, except for the DC-DC that turns on the primary relay to connect the lighting pack to the block--that DC-DC is pwoered by the traciton pack when I turn on the main cutoff).

As for going up on the wire gauge--you can determine if you need to or not by checking the current draw of the items to be powered by them, adding them up, and seeing if the gauge you were going to use is enough or if you need bigger.