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Cheaper ESC?

buzztiaan

1 W
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
52
Location
Netherlands
So been looking at a LOT of esc's recently and its really suprising to me to see the massive differences in pricing...

I have a 5055 280kv motor and want to run it on 6S so been looking at ~100A ESCs ..

These options all look so very tempting ;

* http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16367__Turnigy_dlux_100A_SBEC_Brushless_Speed_Controller_w_Data_Logging.html
* http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18920__Hobbyking_SS_Series_90_100A_ESC_US_Warehouse_.html
* http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=28223&aff=877196
* http://www.ebay.nl/itm/400877594848
* http://www.ebay.nl/itm/311319107762

Not 100% sure on how to modify the watercooled to be aircooled, but as we have a huge pile of heatsinks, i'm sure i can work something out ..

There is this opensource reprogramming of (many?) ESCs ;
* https://github.com/sim-/tgy

Would love to be able to use that, so maybe i should go through their supported model list?

So basically the question is, whats the cheapest ESC you guys have gone with and not blown up the electronics within a month? :D
 
None of those will work because they are not Car ESC's. The brakes on boat, heli or plane esc's are totally different than what is required for a skateboard.

Also the starting algorithms are different.

Would only recommend getting a car ESC unless you want non functional brakes and bad throttle response.
 
You get what you pay for! I recommend get the monster mamba xl since if it breaks you can send it in and get it fixed for like 35 bucks instead of being out one cheap esc. completely worth for the investment.
 
I didn't have much luck witht eh dlux in a scooter. Sure it ran cool (the motor crazy hot though, timing issue?) but it had a very problematic startup. I would roll a bit, throttle it and 50% of the time the motor would cog up and stutter. Off the ground it wouldn't start smoothly unless the wheel was already spinning. This was with a 6354 motor. The aussie dollar is very low atm, so you could try looking at getting an esc here and shipping it, could work out cheaper.
 
Spend the money on a good esc. Its the brains of the entire setup and without it your board will be essentially unusable.

The Hobbywing ones are the best at 6S. Also check with torqueboards on the his 6s ESC. Either the EZRUN or the Xerun 6s units. We are talking about $35 to $50 difference. Thats a good investment considering that $50 gets you a working board vs a non working one.
 
Wouldn't get that one. I have it and it has problems when the batteries are at full charge. Basically the voltage is to much and causes the motor to cog throwing you off the board unless you are very gentle with the throttle.

Would recommend

http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-ezrun-150a-pro-esc.html
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-c-xerun-150a-sd.html
http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/single-motor-120a-6s-esc/
 
Nijsjol said:
What C rating does your batteries have? i see people having trouble with it, but i also see people like it very much

Most 50mm have a max of 60amps and 63mm motors have a max of 70-90amps or so.

100amps cont seems fine for me on dual 50mm motors. 50 amps each motor. I use a (2) 6S 5ah 20C packs for 12S 5ah 20C and 100 amps.

To keeps the costs down I stick to 20C since 6S 5ah 20C packs are about $40/each. $80 bucks for 12S 5ah capable of about 12+ miles.
 
I have the HobbyKing 150 on three boards. I have the timing set on the highest setting on all of them. Two of them hesitate when pressing the throttle too fast, and the other one acts like the batteries are low until I turn it on and off a couple of times. This is after about two months of riding. Have not had any issues (so far) with the FVT 120. I like the brakes better on the HobbyKing, though.
 
Mccloed,

I also have the same issues with the HK 150a car esc. The hesitation is dangerous especially at higher speeds.
 
Defined by "Wiki"
Cogging torque is an undesirable component for the operation of such a motor. It is especially prominent at lower speeds, with the symptom of jerkiness. Cogging torque results in torque as well as speed ripple; however, at high speed the motor moment of inertia filters out the effect of cogging torque.

At least that's what I consider cogging. Trying to start your motors at low to no speed and your motors can't turn to know their current position. A very small push and a little throttle corrects this. Depending on the grade of flat ground and/or your amount of traction or place of foot. Sometimes, you can start from a stop. Sometimes a little shift of your weight forward will be enough for the motors to not cog.

Sensored motors with hall sensors allow the position to be known and will start from a stop without cogging.

VESC uses Back EMF which in the beginning will cog if you don't throttle hard on the controller. You adjust the throttle input and by the VESC reading the back EMF it directs more current/power to the wheels and pulls it out similar to sensored. It's actually pretty awesome once you ride it. So in other words VESC can cog but if it does that means your just not using it properly.

I haven't fully tried a sensored motor setup yet but want too. Not sure if sensored motors will cog at all. I'm thinking they have no cog at all but can have issues with wires getting tore up and/or hall sensors falling off? I assume.
 
The Hobbyking ESC has caused cogging for me when going from partial throttle to full throttle even when moving over 18mph. Its quite dangerous because at that speed when it cogs you go flying off and if you are not ready will faceplant on the road.
 
http://e0designs.com/products/hall-effect-sensor-board/ looks nice to upgrade a sensorless motor, but its easy enough to produce at home :)

there is this thread elsewhere on this topic; http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=15686
 
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