Chinese quality mtb hubs?

Chalo said:
Eastwood said:
From looking at the pictures of the hub it seems like it might be drilled oversized. I know most of these hubs with the dual rotor mounts are normally labeled E bike hubs.

They look like fairly ordinary 2.7mm hub holes. If they're less than 3.0mm, use 14-15ga spokes. If bigger, use 13-14ga or 13-15-14ga (like DT Alpine III) spokes.

So I received the hub. The whole diameter is 2.9-ish
I know you suggested anything smaller than 3.0 go with the 14-15ga.The same hub is listed on eBay and the description says 13gauge spokes. The one I purchased from Amazon looks exactly like the one that’s labeled on eBay as a 13gauge spokes. I’ll post a picture of the one on eBay. You can see its the same hub that I got from Amazon.
I’ll also include the link to Amazon of the one I purchased.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089RJT1HK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_16F3558VBMZ4Q52RWCJH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

So I’m sort of torn whether I should use 13-14 or 14-15ga.
What would be the disadvantages to running the 13-14??
 

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Eastwood said:
What would be the disadvantages to running the 13-14??

2.0mm spokes have to be tighter to carry the same load as 1.8mm spokes, given the same rim. Since the rim can only take as much tension as it can take, you can load up the same rim with more weight or torque if it has thinner spokes (before you make the spokes go slack and thereby destabilize the wheel).

The difference isn't huge, and either size will likely work just fine. I would have preferred 14-15ga spokes on my e-29er's hub motor wheel, but I needed a length that was hard to get in 14-15 but easy to get locally in 13-14. Like your Halo SAS rims, my Kris Holm rim can tolerate very high spoke tension without damage. So it works out. All the same, I'd have used 14-15ga if it had been equally accessible.
 
Chalo said:
Eastwood said:
What would be the disadvantages to running the 13-14??

2.0mm spokes have to be tighter to carry the same load as 1.8mm spokes, given the same rim. Since the rim can only take as much tension as it can take, you can load up the same rim with more weight or torque if it has thinner spokes (before you make the spokes go slack and thereby destabilize the wheel).

The difference isn't huge, and either size will likely work just fine. I would have preferred 14-15ga spokes on my e-29er's hub motor wheel, but I needed a length that was hard to get in 14-15 but easy to get locally in 13-14. Like your Halo SAS rims, my Kris Holm rim can tolerate very high spoke tension without damage. So it works out. All the same, I'd have used 14-15ga if it had been equally accessible.

OK makes sense, thanks for clarifying
I’ll probably go with the 13-14 but I’m still contemplating.

I’ll post some pictures below of the dimensions. Do you think this hub flange is thick enough? Remember the whole goal for me upgrading the fork and wheel is to make the front end stronger. For mountain bike trails but nothing too crazy off road. Also for hitting potholes at 45-ish mph lol well not often as i’m very aware of road conditions and I’m constantly watching out for potholes etc.

Also will post a picture of the spoke calculator. For the “hub Center flange center hub” measurement I believe you just divide by 2 right?? Since my flanges are equal because of the dual disc.
 

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Eastwood said:
99t4 said:
Eastwood said:
How do I measure for the diameter of the hole?
Go/no go testing with drill bits?

Are you suggesting drilling the hole larger?
No, sorry should have explained in more detail. Not using a drill at all, no drilling at all. Using the bit as a gauge. Hold the bit itself in your hand and fit it thru the hole.

If you have access to an indexed drill bit set, you can fit progressively larger drill bits thru the hole you want to measure. The diameter of the hole is between the size of the last one that fit thru the hole, and the next larger one that didn't.

Example: 7/64" bit fits, 1/8" bit doesn't. Hole is ~3mm.

Obviously, the more bits in the set, the more exact measurement you can obtain.
 
:pancake:
99t4 said:
Eastwood said:
99t4 said:
Eastwood said:
How do I measure for the diameter of the hole?
Go/no go testing with drill bits?

Are you suggesting drilling the hole larger?
No, sorry should have explained in more detail. Not using a drill at all, no drilling at all. Using the bit as a gauge. Hold the bit itself in your hand and fit it thru the hole.

If you have access to an indexed drill bit set, you can fit progressively larger drill bits thru the hole you want to measure. The diameter of the hole is between the size of the last one that fit thru the hole, and the next larger one that didn't.

Example: 7/64" bit fits, 1/8" bit doesn't. Hole is ~3mm.

Obviously, the more bits in the set, the more exact measurement you can obtain.

OK thanks for clarifying. When I first read your comment that’s what I thought you meant just using the bits as a gauge to measure the diameter. Then I started reading about people drill the holes larger so that I thought you were suggesting that lol

I ended up using that tool in the pictures as I was able to fit it inside the diameter of the hole. I didn’t think it would fit but it worked.
 
Well laced up the front wheel and put the new DNM USD8-S.
Completely different bike now, I didn’t realize how bad my last pogo stick suspension really was lol This DNM is so much smoother on road and off-road 👍
The halo sas wheel up front feels strong. Really happy with the fork wheel combo.

Laced with 13/14ga single butted spaim.
Cross 3
 

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