RWP
1 kW
Woohhhh doggies...What a find! 
I just need a tad smaller. :wink:
I just need a tad smaller. :wink:
Cortina Hard Tail Build
- Thread starter RWP
- Start date
12p3phPMDC,
It's good news that PolyChain GT2 is now available in 5mm - I didn't know that. In Europe we can get PowerGrip GT3 (which wasn't available in US, last time I checked), but not PolyChain in 5mm pitch. Before now, there wasn't a big enough difference in torque handling capacity between PolyChain GT and PowerGrip GT3 to make it worth sourcing belts in US....
Nevertheless, PolyChain GT2 is not Carbon. The Gates classification system is daft enough, as it is.......
Perhaps you have a 5mm Carbon belt, but you haven't proven it, yet.........
If you post a screenshot of the GT Carbon tab from Design IQ and it includes 5mm, I'll be convinced..... :wink:
RWP,
PolyChain belts have a higher torque capacity, but aren't so suitable for higher speeds (the relationship isn't simple). Definitely worth looking into for your second stage.
It's good news that PolyChain GT2 is now available in 5mm - I didn't know that. In Europe we can get PowerGrip GT3 (which wasn't available in US, last time I checked), but not PolyChain in 5mm pitch. Before now, there wasn't a big enough difference in torque handling capacity between PolyChain GT and PowerGrip GT3 to make it worth sourcing belts in US....
Nevertheless, PolyChain GT2 is not Carbon. The Gates classification system is daft enough, as it is.......
Perhaps you have a 5mm Carbon belt, but you haven't proven it, yet.........
If you post a screenshot of the GT Carbon tab from Design IQ and it includes 5mm, I'll be convinced..... :wink:
RWP,
PolyChain belts have a higher torque capacity, but aren't so suitable for higher speeds (the relationship isn't simple). Definitely worth looking into for your second stage.
12p3phPMDC
1 kW
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2009
- Messages
- 462
Ok ok....
Well, I'm not going through any acrobatics to argue......I mean debate.
It is what it is.....The Gates Apps engineer treated them as equivalent.
I'll have a drive soon enough...and we'll see how the 5mm Polychain GT2
works for the high speed reduction.
All I know is that you should get double the power handling with this technology...
Well, I'm not going through any acrobatics to argue......I mean debate.
It is what it is.....The Gates Apps engineer treated them as equivalent.
I'll have a drive soon enough...and we'll see how the 5mm Polychain GT2
works for the high speed reduction.
All I know is that you should get double the power handling with this technology...
Hi Roy,
very nice work! I really like your build. It is very clean and looks quite nice. A video would be pretty great.
After I made my plans for left hand drive, I started thinking about the advantages of going the freewheel crank route. It definitely does seem to present an advantage. But since that would require re-designing more than half of my bike I think I'll stick with the current design at least for this build. I'm also considering the possibility of implementing a delta-wye switch like Doctorbass is working on with his hub motors. But that's all still in the clouds for now.
Anyway, I want to know if you would be interested in a fan for your TowerPro motor. I'm working with a friend who is an engineering student on making a cooling fan for this particular motor that will bolt on to the back. I posted a picture of the design I worked on in my thread:
Making more than one part reduces the production cost. If you are interested, shoot me a PM and we can talk about it some more.
Oh, perhaps you could share your sources for the aluminum tubing you use for the enclosure? I'm trying to come up with a similar solution before the winter hits again so I can leave my bike outside safely.
very nice work! I really like your build. It is very clean and looks quite nice. A video would be pretty great.
After I made my plans for left hand drive, I started thinking about the advantages of going the freewheel crank route. It definitely does seem to present an advantage. But since that would require re-designing more than half of my bike I think I'll stick with the current design at least for this build. I'm also considering the possibility of implementing a delta-wye switch like Doctorbass is working on with his hub motors. But that's all still in the clouds for now.
Anyway, I want to know if you would be interested in a fan for your TowerPro motor. I'm working with a friend who is an engineering student on making a cooling fan for this particular motor that will bolt on to the back. I posted a picture of the design I worked on in my thread:
Making more than one part reduces the production cost. If you are interested, shoot me a PM and we can talk about it some more.
Oh, perhaps you could share your sources for the aluminum tubing you use for the enclosure? I'm trying to come up with a similar solution before the winter hits again so I can leave my bike outside safely.
RWP
1 kW
Grinhill
Here is the wiring diagram for the Cortina:
The values for the resistor and rectifier were estimations and not calculated.
And here are links to the contactor I am using:
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-SL1120.html
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/product%20...%20oid120.pdf
and one for the disconnect/power switch:
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/product%20...%20ELLA1.html
Here is the wiring diagram for the Cortina:
The values for the resistor and rectifier were estimations and not calculated.
And here are links to the contactor I am using:
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-SL1120.html
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/product%20...%20oid120.pdf
and one for the disconnect/power switch:
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/product%20...%20ELLA1.html
RWP
1 kW
Thanks oofnik!
I really like the way you put the electronics in the case and using Ethernet cable and connectors is brilliant.
What did you do to mount your PowerPanel and what did you use to extend the very short PP lead?
Video coming next week.
Now that I have done a through the crank drive here are my thoughts:
Pros -
One final drive chain. Simple hub system. No special parts needed.
One can change the entire final drive ratio easily at the hub.
Cons -
If I want to change drive unit ratios I have to do it before the crank or with the drive side chain ring.
When pedaling the motor freewheel makes a racket.
Not Sure -
The White Industries/Sick Bike Parts freewheel assembly has a LOT of side to side play...not sure how this will hold up but if there are any issues with the inside chain ring being too close to the chain stay this side to side free play may cause contact. I have not seen anything better so let's hope it holds up OK.
So the ratio thing is a mixed bag. I can easily change the entire driveline ratio at the hub or final drive chain ring. However, if the ratio for pedaling cadence is correct but the drive ratio is too high, as in the Cortina, if I lower the ratio at the hub I am also altering the ratio for peddling cadence.
I got the 2x4x1/8 aluminum tubing at onlinemetals.com but if I were to do it again I would get if from McMaster because they have it in 6061 for a few pennies more. Making all the parts fit and then servicing them in the tube is not fun. My next drive most likely will be three 1/4" plates - the center plate representing the place where the two tubes come together and two other plates one on each side thus allowing me to remove the side plates to fully access the drive components on that side of the center plate. I am thinking of using 1/2" dia standoffs in strategic places to separate the outer plates from the center plate.
What do you think of this idea?
Another concept is to get a larger tube, 3x5 or 3x6 or 4xX, with 1/4" walls and cut off one side to have a U channel with access to the guts and then cover the assembly with the cut off side. One can bore all the through holes and drill small holes at the edges for dowel pins before separating the side thus keeping the alignment.
Another issue using the tubing is that I had to round off the ends to make it fit into the triangle...it was also a design decision as the squared off tubing did not look as good as the rounded version...but most likely some kind of rounding or chamfering will want to happen if only for aesthetics. Then one has to figure out how to close the shaped open ends.
I'l PM you regarding the fan...looks good.
I really like the way you put the electronics in the case and using Ethernet cable and connectors is brilliant.
What did you do to mount your PowerPanel and what did you use to extend the very short PP lead?
Video coming next week.
Now that I have done a through the crank drive here are my thoughts:
Pros -
One final drive chain. Simple hub system. No special parts needed.
One can change the entire final drive ratio easily at the hub.
Cons -
If I want to change drive unit ratios I have to do it before the crank or with the drive side chain ring.
When pedaling the motor freewheel makes a racket.
Not Sure -
The White Industries/Sick Bike Parts freewheel assembly has a LOT of side to side play...not sure how this will hold up but if there are any issues with the inside chain ring being too close to the chain stay this side to side free play may cause contact. I have not seen anything better so let's hope it holds up OK.
So the ratio thing is a mixed bag. I can easily change the entire driveline ratio at the hub or final drive chain ring. However, if the ratio for pedaling cadence is correct but the drive ratio is too high, as in the Cortina, if I lower the ratio at the hub I am also altering the ratio for peddling cadence.
I got the 2x4x1/8 aluminum tubing at onlinemetals.com but if I were to do it again I would get if from McMaster because they have it in 6061 for a few pennies more. Making all the parts fit and then servicing them in the tube is not fun. My next drive most likely will be three 1/4" plates - the center plate representing the place where the two tubes come together and two other plates one on each side thus allowing me to remove the side plates to fully access the drive components on that side of the center plate. I am thinking of using 1/2" dia standoffs in strategic places to separate the outer plates from the center plate.
What do you think of this idea?
Another concept is to get a larger tube, 3x5 or 3x6 or 4xX, with 1/4" walls and cut off one side to have a U channel with access to the guts and then cover the assembly with the cut off side. One can bore all the through holes and drill small holes at the edges for dowel pins before separating the side thus keeping the alignment.
Another issue using the tubing is that I had to round off the ends to make it fit into the triangle...it was also a design decision as the squared off tubing did not look as good as the rounded version...but most likely some kind of rounding or chamfering will want to happen if only for aesthetics. Then one has to figure out how to close the shaped open ends.
I'l PM you regarding the fan...looks good.
RWP
1 kW
I hope I am not out of line but...I suggest...request that the motor - fan issue be moved or continued elsewhere.
Thanks for your understanding.
Roy
Thanks for your understanding.
Roy
You're right.
RWP
1 kW
Thank you offnik!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I have been tearing my hair trying to juggle all the alternatives and finally accepted that what was driving my insanity is that the secondary belt just is not up to the job (I know - I know - I have been forewarned) (and...attached to what I think is a more element solution)...I kept dancing around trying to find a way but in the end all the options were more work or trouble or just more of the same than biting the bullet and going to chain. Means I have to figure out some kind of tensioner but this at least is do-able.
I looked at 8mm pitch but the parts are just physically too large in diameter for my configuration. I looked at wider 5mm pitch belts but there is not enough room in the drive to add to the width and get all the pulleys tightened to the shafts...in the end the chain seems to solve the issue and allow use of a more powerful motor with a lower Kv.
I very much like the idea of using belts inside the drive unit and will explore 8mm pitch from the get go in my next drive design. I can get wider 5mm pitch belts if the 8mm stuff is still too big - this is my fall back...or go to chain...
The next enclosed drive design will have the sides removable so I will not have the fussy assembly issues I have with the current design.
I just do not care for the fact that #25 chain has no rollers and is thus a constant maintenance issue. And larger chain pitches are just...LARGER.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I have been tearing my hair trying to juggle all the alternatives and finally accepted that what was driving my insanity is that the secondary belt just is not up to the job (I know - I know - I have been forewarned) (and...attached to what I think is a more element solution)...I kept dancing around trying to find a way but in the end all the options were more work or trouble or just more of the same than biting the bullet and going to chain. Means I have to figure out some kind of tensioner but this at least is do-able.
I looked at 8mm pitch but the parts are just physically too large in diameter for my configuration. I looked at wider 5mm pitch belts but there is not enough room in the drive to add to the width and get all the pulleys tightened to the shafts...in the end the chain seems to solve the issue and allow use of a more powerful motor with a lower Kv.
I very much like the idea of using belts inside the drive unit and will explore 8mm pitch from the get go in my next drive design. I can get wider 5mm pitch belts if the 8mm stuff is still too big - this is my fall back...or go to chain...
The next enclosed drive design will have the sides removable so I will not have the fussy assembly issues I have with the current design.
I just do not care for the fact that #25 chain has no rollers and is thus a constant maintenance issue. And larger chain pitches are just...LARGER.
recumpence
1 GW
RWP said:
I feel the same way. However, I have 800 miles on my recumbent with the same chain. No problem.
Matt
RWP
1 kW
Thanks Miles...it's just fine the way it is.
Matt.
How often do you lube the chain and what lube do you use?
Roy
Matt.
How often do you lube the chain and what lube do you use?
Roy
recumpence
1 GW
I have lubed it twice in 800 miles (bear in mind, I do coast alot, so 800 miles is not with motor running the whole time).
I use a lube that was designed for bronze motor bushings. It is a lithium based lube.
I have use White Lightning chain lube too. That stuff is wicked! It penetrates the chain, then hardens a layer within the links. It does not wipe off either. If you lube a chain with it, let it sit for an hour or so, you can wipe a white cloth accross the chain with no rub off.
Matt
I use a lube that was designed for bronze motor bushings. It is a lithium based lube.
I have use White Lightning chain lube too. That stuff is wicked! It penetrates the chain, then hardens a layer within the links. It does not wipe off either. If you lube a chain with it, let it sit for an hour or so, you can wipe a white cloth accross the chain with no rub off.
Matt
RWP
1 kW
Thanks Matt,
Now the question I should have asked before I ordered parts...
For a chain tensioner I got a case hardened 1/2" shaft, a double sealed needle bearing and Delrin tube.
I am planning to press the Delrin onto the needle bearing and then notch it a bit as a chain guide.
Hold the bearing in place with a few alu spacers grub screwed to the shaft.
And support the shaft on one end by drilling and taping into the shaft end and holding it in place by pinching the tubing I am using as the drive housing...not planning on holding a lot of tension just to take up the chain slack.
What do you think? Your suggestions are appreciated. I may have to start over... :lol:
Roy
Now the question I should have asked before I ordered parts...
For a chain tensioner I got a case hardened 1/2" shaft, a double sealed needle bearing and Delrin tube.
I am planning to press the Delrin onto the needle bearing and then notch it a bit as a chain guide.
Hold the bearing in place with a few alu spacers grub screwed to the shaft.
And support the shaft on one end by drilling and taping into the shaft end and holding it in place by pinching the tubing I am using as the drive housing...not planning on holding a lot of tension just to take up the chain slack.
What do you think? Your suggestions are appreciated. I may have to start over... :lol:
Roy
lesdit
100 W
Quick question: Did you find the belt was too weak in practice, or just in principal?
( did you strip it ? )
Bike looks clean, good work !
( did you strip it ? )
Bike looks clean, good work !
recumpence
1 GW
RWP said:Thanks Matt,
Now the question I should have asked before I ordered parts...
For a chain tensioner I got a case hardened 1/2" shaft, a double sealed needle bearing and Delrin tube.
I am planning to press the Delrin onto the needle bearing and then notch it a bit as a chain guide.
Hold the bearing in place with a few alu spacers grub screwed to the shaft.
And support the shaft on one end by drilling and taping into the shaft end and holding it in place by pinching the tubing I am using as the drive housing...not planning on holding a lot of tension just to take up the chain slack.
What do you think? Your suggestions are appreciated. I may have to start over... :lol:
Roy
You don't need to start over. That will work fine.
You just need to take up the chain slack. That is all. I went through the same thing on my recumbent.
It is all part of the learning curve.
Matt
12p3phPMDC
1 kW
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2009
- Messages
- 462
RWP,
Were you able to resolve your jackshaft issues?
Did you go to a chain or a new belt?
Were you able to resolve your jackshaft issues?
Did you go to a chain or a new belt?
RWP
1 kW
Sorry to reply so late...I was away from computers for the last several weeks. And when I got back my ES thread subscription emails had stopped (all is well now!).
Thanks, glad you like it.
I replaced the secondary belt with a #25 chain and tensioner. Still have a 5mm belt for the primary dirve.12p3phPMDC said:
The belt started to delaminate. It made this loud low pitched "thumping" noise at slow speeds. If you look at the torque capacity of the GT2 belts (info from the Stock Drive site and probably from Gates) you will see that at low RPM's the actual power handling capacity is very low but as one increases the RPM's the ability to handle more torque increases significantly.lesdit said:
Thanks, glad you like it.
RWP
1 kW
OK...an update.
The machine is very sweet and fun to ride!!! I am riding it several times a week without any issues. I do have some video - just have to make time to do a little editing and get it into YouTube format.
I took the voltage down from 36v to 18v and now the motor is not getting overheated unless I hold wot for about 5 minutes - then it gets hot. I tend to ride about 15-20mph most of the time while under electric power which is about 1/2 to 2/3 throttle position in top gear.
It tops out at about 25mph which is OK with me. I originally wanted to go faster but I am quite happy with this performance. I can lift the front wheel in first gear without really trying. I am probably getting about 1,300wats from the motor. So I am just a tad illegal 8) which begs the question of how illegal is really illegal :lol:
The Nexus 3 speed hub is a dream. I can up shift at WOT smooth as silk. It will not downshift unless I blip the throttle - needs to interrupt the load for just an instant. Just wish it had a wider ratio range. I can go to an 8 speed hub...but really just need the ratio spread and not all those gears.
My only issues are not having a LVC (as I have been away for a while this may have been mostly solved). I have had a bit of battery problems and very carefully did some pack surgery to combine two packs to make one good one. But I am afraid of frying cells so I keep the pack voltage to about 17 or so (EagleTree LCD readout). I think I can go lower but just do not want to surge the batt and take out more cells.
For my next project I will use a larger motor and higher voltage. My perception is that most of the HXT/HobbyCity type motors, when used for eBikes, will overheat at their rated max power ratings. I like the Astro motors...we shall see. Also the drive system I used for the Cortina needs to be made easier to work on and stronger. I would like to use 8mm belts but they may be physically too large or perhaps wider 5mm belts. The 5mm will mean a wider drive system and the 8mm will mean a narrower but larger unit. Still working this out.
I probably will not make another "through the crank" drive system. Don't get me wrong it is working very well on the Cortina. Just want more options for keeping the cranks and final drive ratios separate. Also I am looking at a "heavy duty" bicycle system that is really a light weight motorcycle - no pedals.
Also looking forward to seeing what comes out of ES regarding controllers that can handle more volts and amps, and perhaps sensored motors and controller combinations.
YOUR THOUGHTS GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Both my bike and ES have been a great ride and I look forward to many more happy times.
The machine is very sweet and fun to ride!!! I am riding it several times a week without any issues. I do have some video - just have to make time to do a little editing and get it into YouTube format.
I took the voltage down from 36v to 18v and now the motor is not getting overheated unless I hold wot for about 5 minutes - then it gets hot. I tend to ride about 15-20mph most of the time while under electric power which is about 1/2 to 2/3 throttle position in top gear.
It tops out at about 25mph which is OK with me. I originally wanted to go faster but I am quite happy with this performance. I can lift the front wheel in first gear without really trying. I am probably getting about 1,300wats from the motor. So I am just a tad illegal 8) which begs the question of how illegal is really illegal :lol:
The Nexus 3 speed hub is a dream. I can up shift at WOT smooth as silk. It will not downshift unless I blip the throttle - needs to interrupt the load for just an instant. Just wish it had a wider ratio range. I can go to an 8 speed hub...but really just need the ratio spread and not all those gears.
My only issues are not having a LVC (as I have been away for a while this may have been mostly solved). I have had a bit of battery problems and very carefully did some pack surgery to combine two packs to make one good one. But I am afraid of frying cells so I keep the pack voltage to about 17 or so (EagleTree LCD readout). I think I can go lower but just do not want to surge the batt and take out more cells.
For my next project I will use a larger motor and higher voltage. My perception is that most of the HXT/HobbyCity type motors, when used for eBikes, will overheat at their rated max power ratings. I like the Astro motors...we shall see. Also the drive system I used for the Cortina needs to be made easier to work on and stronger. I would like to use 8mm belts but they may be physically too large or perhaps wider 5mm belts. The 5mm will mean a wider drive system and the 8mm will mean a narrower but larger unit. Still working this out.
I probably will not make another "through the crank" drive system. Don't get me wrong it is working very well on the Cortina. Just want more options for keeping the cranks and final drive ratios separate. Also I am looking at a "heavy duty" bicycle system that is really a light weight motorcycle - no pedals.
Also looking forward to seeing what comes out of ES regarding controllers that can handle more volts and amps, and perhaps sensored motors and controller combinations.
YOUR THOUGHTS GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Both my bike and ES have been a great ride and I look forward to many more happy times.
Grinhill
10 kW
RWP said:
Hi Roy, glad to hear your machine is going well.
My impression is that once you are using power in the 1000 - 1500W region, the through-the-cranks issue becomes less important. Direct drive makes the engineering a little simpler.
Through-the-cranks would give much more flexibility for lower power systems.
And I must say lifting the front wheel does sound like fun, though
lesdit
100 W
Hi Roy,
Did you find that the chain update made the bike noisier than the belt version ?
If not noisier, which sounded better, for lack of better words ? Chain or belt?
How about drag, I hear how efficient belts are supposed to be, but I have a gut feeling that by the time a belt is tensioned the right amount, it would cause too much drag.
I am searching around for gates belt data right now, and it seems that the 8mm pitch carbon belts have a lack of
small drive pulleys, I think that 20 was the smallest, with an OD that was close to 2 inches, which is huge!
I'm thinking that the reason they don't have small pulleys for the M8 belts is that they don't like the small tooth count or maybe the radius is too tight for the belt.
What was the smallest 5mm gates drive pulley you found ?
My offroad only bike is using an 8 speed hub, but it is serving as a jack shaft right before the final rear sprocket. I am increasing the rear wheel sprocket from 32t to 56t , to lessen the torque transmitted through the shimano hub, in hopes of giving it a longer life.
Anyhow, thanks again for posting this thread detailing your bikes workings!
Did you find that the chain update made the bike noisier than the belt version ?
If not noisier, which sounded better, for lack of better words ? Chain or belt?
How about drag, I hear how efficient belts are supposed to be, but I have a gut feeling that by the time a belt is tensioned the right amount, it would cause too much drag.
I am searching around for gates belt data right now, and it seems that the 8mm pitch carbon belts have a lack of
small drive pulleys, I think that 20 was the smallest, with an OD that was close to 2 inches, which is huge!
I'm thinking that the reason they don't have small pulleys for the M8 belts is that they don't like the small tooth count or maybe the radius is too tight for the belt.
What was the smallest 5mm gates drive pulley you found ?
My offroad only bike is using an 8 speed hub, but it is serving as a jack shaft right before the final rear sprocket. I am increasing the rear wheel sprocket from 32t to 56t , to lessen the torque transmitted through the shimano hub, in hopes of giving it a longer life.
Anyhow, thanks again for posting this thread detailing your bikes workings!
12p3phPMDC
1 kW
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2009
- Messages
- 462
Hi Lesdit,
Do you have any pics of the 8 speed hub as an intermediate transmission?
I'd be really interested in seeing them...
I like the idea of divorced transmissions for some reason...guess they remind
me of a motorcycle... :wink:
Thanks....
Do you have any pics of the 8 speed hub as an intermediate transmission?
I'd be really interested in seeing them...
I like the idea of divorced transmissions for some reason...guess they remind
me of a motorcycle... :wink:
Thanks....
RWP
1 kW
Hi lesdit,
Sound: I will put my screwdriver to head audio pickup device to the belt section and the chain section - they are each enclosed in their own 2x4x.125 alu tubes - and follow up on what I find. I know this may be highly inaccurate but I will give it a shot and get back to you.
Drag: My sense and perception is that for the kind of machine I built there is little difference in drag between the belt and chain. Just turning the system by hand the belt offers more resistance than the chain, but as I said, under load I do not think there is much real difference. Of course if I am not correct on this I am sure you out there will speak up
Unless you are already noticing issues with the 8s hub - and if there are no other issues - I would be inclined to leave well enough alone. 32 to 56 is a fairly large jump - are there gearing issues that changing the ratio will resolve or is it just as you stated?
One of the reasons I went to the 3s hub was to give it a go, and see how it would hold up. Going for the 3s hub, addition to meeting my design criteria, was a service to the community to stress these parts and let others know what works and what fails.
I can imagine that an off road bike would need the extra gears. I was tempted to go with a 7 or 8 speed but through reading here on ES I thought the 3s would serve my needs - and indeed it has. I can go up a fairly steep hill in first gear [I have not met a paved hill I could not climb in 1st] with a fairly light throttle and get my running speed of 18 to 24 mph just fine in 3rd.
When I demo the bike to friends I always start them out in 2nd, with repetitive comments on opening up the throttle GENTLY, to make sure they do not wheelie off the line!
All good questions...I do not have answers for.lesdit said:
Sound: I will put my screwdriver to head audio pickup device to the belt section and the chain section - they are each enclosed in their own 2x4x.125 alu tubes - and follow up on what I find. I know this may be highly inaccurate but I will give it a shot and get back to you.
Drag: My sense and perception is that for the kind of machine I built there is little difference in drag between the belt and chain. Just turning the system by hand the belt offers more resistance than the chain, but as I said, under load I do not think there is much real difference. Of course if I am not correct on this I am sure you out there will speak up
TorqueTrans makes 14t 8mm pulleys - one just has to figure out how to buy from them! Anybody have a clue?lesdit said:
lesdit said:
Unless you are already noticing issues with the 8s hub - and if there are no other issues - I would be inclined to leave well enough alone. 32 to 56 is a fairly large jump - are there gearing issues that changing the ratio will resolve or is it just as you stated?
One of the reasons I went to the 3s hub was to give it a go, and see how it would hold up. Going for the 3s hub, addition to meeting my design criteria, was a service to the community to stress these parts and let others know what works and what fails.
I can imagine that an off road bike would need the extra gears. I was tempted to go with a 7 or 8 speed but through reading here on ES I thought the 3s would serve my needs - and indeed it has. I can go up a fairly steep hill in first gear [I have not met a paved hill I could not climb in 1st] with a fairly light throttle and get my running speed of 18 to 24 mph just fine in 3rd.
When I demo the bike to friends I always start them out in 2nd, with repetitive comments on opening up the throttle GENTLY, to make sure they do not wheelie off the line!
