Cube Reaction HS3540

[3nslav3]

Hi all,

This is my first Ebike project:
I mainly build this bike for work <=> home transportation, save cash (and for some speeding during weekends)

electrical stuff:
-48V 40Amp xlite controller
-48V 10Ah 13S lipo
-HS3540 motor
-speedict (used for monitoring, coolness, batt temp and ebrake cut off (speed limit))
-APM display mounted on the frame (used for limiting current and switching from PAS to throttle)
-homemade alu batterie box with ignition and emergency stop button on the side (safe and easy to reach)

everything has been waterproofed and tested during heavy rain

basic bike stuff:
front brake: SLX 203mm
rear brake: SLX 180mm
those brakes provide plenty of stopping power (even @ 50km/u)

front fork: Rock shox Sektor
tires: Crazy bob (road and light off road work)
2008 cube reaction frame
9 speed sunrace cassette
medium cage XT deraileur

Torque arm:

the front deraileur has been locked to the biggest gear due to the lack of room for a shifter on the handlebars (wanted the handlebars clean and as empty as possible)
and a lock!!!! it had to have a lock on it

 

[3nslav3]

charging specs:
for charging my lipo pack I use a Thunderpower TP1430C charger with a 30V 5Amp PSU (charging @ 2.5amps works with adding a few capacitors to the PSU)
link to the charger: http://thunderpowerrc.com/html/TP1430C.html

I did have to solder some wires to the included balance board to make the charger able to balance 13S packs

charging plug on the battery box: SUB-D plug with 2x 20Amp power contacts and 15x 5Amp contacts, makes it a perfect charger plug!

Weather proofing can be done using a plastic dust cap (25p sub-D cover fits perfect!)

http://uk.farnell.com/harting/09-69-301-5172/socket-d-mixed-power-17w2/dp/1207587

charger in action:

Capacitor board to get the max out of my small psu (i can charge @ 2.5Amps instead of 1.7 now ) :

Charger connection to the batt box:

as you can see... the paint comming off after 2 months of use but I'll repaint it soon

the black thing on top: power LED => I've made it black with silicone because it was to bright, i'll replace it with another LED that doesn't work (for the fun of it and to fill up the hole)
the round shiny thing with 2 screws: stop button => shut the bike off (safety, save batterie)
keylock: ignition => acts as a start button for turning the bike on





I'll be uploading pics / updating this thread very soon

 

[kudos]

Nice clean build.

Looking forward to some more details.

I run a 3540 at 12S myself...

Kudos

 

[3nslav3]

the only problems I had so far are:
-broken speedsensor => replaced with something that will be hopefully better
-anderson motor connector got wet and the digital 40amp controller was having a very hard time finding the motor position (i don't use hall sensors in the motor due to reliability reasons) => wrapped in innertube
-"homemade" crystalyte battpack takes ages to get balanced using a charger with build in balancer (I got rid of the crystalyte BMS because it was faulthy) => replace battpack
-water inside the APM display due to warned out buttons => have to make a custom housing for it

Few updates:

plastic box that holds the speedict:

the box is already visible on the first post but I wanted to show it because bluetooth doesn't like to be in an aluminium box unfortunatly the speedict doesn't have an external antenna

the reedswitch that I got with the speedict failed on me after about 400km of riding trough mostly rainy conditions so here is my improvised and hopefully bulletproof alternative:

industrial reedswitch from SMC and an alu block that I had laying around, perfect fit! might make something cleaner soon but it is keeping the cops away for now

new toy for charging LIPO:

that thing already blew 1 of my RC chargers when I tried to test it so I need to make some changes to the output of this thing (still have to investigate what went wrong)
output voltage is fine, it might be the high pulsed output that messed up the charger but I need a scope to find that out


future changes:
-get rid of the crystalyte 48v 10Ah lipo
-replace with RC packs (already ordered some high quality 7800mAh lipo packs) => going from 13S to 14S, the caps in the controller should allow it
-replace anderson plugs with bullet connectors (they are easyer to come by)
-make a custom housing for the APM display

clean handlebars!

top speed record using a combo of pedal power and lipo power

the bike already has more then 1000km on the counter, still rolling fine!!!

 

[Trackman417]

did have to solder some wires to the included balance board to make the charger able to balance 13S packs

charging plug on the battery box: SUB-D plug with 2x 20Amp power contacts and 15x 5Amp contacts, makes it a perfect charger plug!

Weather proofing can be done using a plastic dust cap (25p sub-D cover fits perfect!)

I like the fool proof connector you found! The power contacts look awful thin to be 20 amps though? Do they get warm, at all, when pushing 20 amps?

 

[3nslav3]

I have never pushed 20Amps trough them, for now I only charge@ 2.5Amps , but they are rated 20Amps

at work we use them for UPS systems, never had a problem with them, in fact...
personally I think that the SUB-D system is the most perfect, compact, durable, low power connection system on the market, you can use it for almost everything and these plugs can take a hell of a beating before they fail
to bad they don't make 100Amp+ connectors

here is the data sheet: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/489442.pdf

here is a 40Amp alternative that will fit in the standard sub-D housing: http://uk.farnell.com/harting/09-69-281-7423/contact-male-40a/dp/1200479 :wink:

and a pic of a male / female 20Amp contact next to a standard bullet plug:

 

[Laureloke]

Hello, 3nslav3.
Can you show a picture how you connect battaries to SUB-D plug and how you connect TP1430C to SUB-D plug too. This is interasting idea, but I efraid of wrong connection.