Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing if it would work, because you haven't given us any information about your bike's needs, it's battery supply voltage, the output voltage you need, the current draw of the load on that voltage, etc. Or any information on how you would be wiring this up to deal with your initial power surge problem, if you are not using it as a replacement for your original DC-DC converter.
If you don't need more than 12Vdc, at 30A, then it's output would power your stuff. But if you're using typical automotive lighting, horns, etc, you need 13.6v or so. 12v is pretty low.
If the battery you're powering it from is no more than 90v and no less than 40v, then at least it won't blow up when connected to it, and it should turn on and output 12v.
It may also be a bit large for a typical bicycle (the forum section you're posting in is for bicycles), at about a pound and a half, and about 4" x 4.4" x 1.3", depending on your power needs. If you don't need much current, you may be able to use a much smaller one like this: https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/dc-dc-converters.html which probably also won't need a precharge circuit.
But a DC-DC converter doesn't directly have anything to do with fixing the problem you're having with your existing DC-DC converter (unless you're replacing it with a much smaller one to reduce the input surge). For that, you need a precharge circuit, as previously noted. All a DC-DC is going to do is convert from one voltage to another, it isn't going to change the current surge.
BTW, if you read the specs for that aliexpress unit you've linked, at least some of them are obviously just made up, or copied from some other product, so you probably don't want to buy from that company:
First they say it is up to 200kw, which is impossible for something that size, and with those current and voltage limits. The max of 12v at 30A means a max of 360w, quite a far cry from 200kw. Next, they say it's 100khz output, which means it's not DC, it's AC, so you wouldn't want to use that on your DC-powered stuff without adding filtering circuitry to convert that to DC.
Since almost certainly neither of those things is correct, then the rest of what they say about it is probably wrong, too.
