Deal on motors/wheels

I havent' heard a word since mid-May, when he confirmed he'd just have to remember to send the shifters to me with the wheels.
 
I received this email this morning. Anybody who ordered probably got an email also, but I thought I would go ahead and post it here so that everyone could see it.

Hello,
These wheels have had a pretty cool adventure along the way, but they are all shipping now.

All the orders that were for two Bafang Wheels ( only ) have gone out. You should have received Fedex tracking numbers.

The combo Bafang/Sturmey Wheel orders... I did not feel that the original box the team was going to use would work out. It was big enough for three wheels, but it was slightly too small for all four wheels in one box. The new boxes will be in on Monday and you should start seeing those shipments go out either late on Monday or Tuesday.

We have included extra disk brake callipers for the front wheels.

Bolts/Nuts/Washers... We have included them for the wheels. Each wheel was secured with a unique 7 sided nut (also called splins) that you will want to replace. They were designed to be used with a special tool. The thread sizing is standard.

I know this shipment took a little longer than normal to ship out. I am sorry about that.

/Guy Caprioli
Battery Clearing House
 
Yes, I got the same email. So they'll probably go out soon enough. I'm not in a hurry, so not really worried about it, though it had been a bit concerning with no contact for so long.
 
Hi all,
A box with 2 wheel-motors was delivered today per my order. Brake calipers and nuts/bolts included. All appears in good condition although obviously used somewhat. Does anybody have a link to the motor spec sheet or better yet, a manual? Would be appreciated. Thanks.
major
 
No manual but for the connector, it is probably the standard wiring for that type; reasonably easy to verify.

I think it is the Higo Z910, which is probably this wiring:
higoZ910_Pinout-768x257.jpg


Assuming it is the Bafang BPM code10 (or similar), threads like this
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=35323

may have useful info.

Once I get mine, I'll post any info I can get off of the shells/etc.


From the pics I saved from the original ad, the numbers are
FM G020.350.D 10; couldn't find any useful info out there that we don't already know in this thread.

DSC_0279_057def5e-6e2b-4bcd-b562-422b5bde8a48_500x.jpg
DSC_0280_c75afb2b-9eda-40e7-a1e6-ccf13c4606e9_500x.jpg
 
I received my tracking info today. It looks like the 4 wheel package is starting to go out. Hopefully others received their tracking as well.
 
Got mine last night- FedEx beat the ever-loving PISS out of the box, and to be frank I'm amazed the wheels remained intact- contrast to the big block kit I bought from sparkz, who's 80lb box had no problems from USPS despite it weighing 2/3rds as much as the mail lady carrying the damn thing.

Did uh, anyone else think the ad was just for the 3-speeds? I am NOT complaining that I have these hub motors now, but I got far more than I thought. The hubs are in good shape, and the tires all still hold air with decent tread left on them. Heck, I haven't found any bad scratches either! I'll post up pics later when I'm home, this was VERY worth the ~$120 and I can't wait to dick around with the IGHs.
 
IIRC:

The original ad was for two IGH wheels and two hubmotor wheels; then was taken down.

A second ad was later created for just a pair of hubmotor wheels.

Then a third ad was created for the same as the first; that's what I ordered.
 
Mine arrived yesterday. They were packed with too much white space (air) in the box. That caused them to jumble around quite a bit but everything arrived completely in tact. The hub motors got scratched a bit. For the price, I'm not concerned. Two tires are like new with little nubbies left on them. This was a great deal and I'm very happy with the purchase. Now to find a cheap shifter solution. Anyone have any ideas?
 
There's a link earlier in the thread to a search list of possible options, but none of them are what I would call cheap. There are thumb and grip versions.

If you can determine how much cable pull it takes to fully shift into each gear, you can use an old friction shifter and mark it for each gear position. (if it's not fully shifted into a gear you can end up damaging the IGH under load).
 
I got my order this week and only received the two Bafang front wheels instead of the 4 wheels that I originally ordered, I sent Guy an email and hope to get the other two wheels. I ordered the 4 wheel deals to get the Marathon tires which alone are almost worth the cost of the entire deal. Unfortunately I received one Marathon tire and one Kenda tire. We will see what Battery Clearing House does to resolve the problem.
 
Now that I have received my order, I am wondering if anybody has started playing with these motors? I think you could probably carefully cut off the 9-pin connector and keep track of the wires by using the pin-out in an early post. However, I am going to order one 9-pin Higo adapter cable to use the motor with a normal 3-phase/6 pin connector motor controller and I am going to order a extension cable and a Higo motor controller which will be a direct connection without having to cut solder or move pins around. If I can find a bike frame that uses disc brake setup and will take the width of the motor axle I will make go that route. Otherwise I will play around and see what develops.

I would love to see what you are doing with the wheels, both the Sturmey-Archer and the Bafang as you move forward.
 
This has been an interesting thread to keep an eye on. Just out of curiosity, has anyone been able to confirm that this is a BPM code 10? For the record I've never seen a photo of a Bafang anything front motor that has the number 10 in brackets. Rear yes, front no.

2_7870168c-401e-45e4-9a41-d3e6d421a4bf_1800x1800.jpg


And what's with the 1 at the end? Weird...

Also, G02 is the factory designation number (or something) of the SWX02, which is smaller in diameter and on the front motors has the cable coming out the side of the axle (like it damn well should, thank you very much).
 
Which motor it is was just a guess on my part, as I couldn't find any useful information about that p/n on the web, other than what's been posted here on the thread. :(

As a note, all the SWX02 pics I found online show that number as part of the engraving, where this motor does not. And they dont' look like this motor.

But the BPMs do have the same types of designations as what this motor shows, and do look like this motor.

So that's why my guess of what it is.

I did find that some of the Jump bikes have different setups than the wheels here, both different motor wheel and different hub in the regular wheel. I think it was in a reddit teardown, but i couldn't access the whole page, just a google preview of it.
 
I got my order last week. One of the motor leads was cut off so near the axle (like 1/4") it will be impossible to splice. So I popped it open. It's a gear drive so it slipped out of the ring gear. Photo attached.
IMG_20200620_145737546.jpg
 
The photo does show that this is the 8Fun SWX02 from 2015, and in a 10T configuration (at least that one is), *or* that it uses the same PCB inside it as the SWX02 (but the 10T is written (engraved?) on the stator support frame).
 
I have been playing with the Sturmey-archer wheels. One of the two wheels I received looks like it had been in an accident in its previous life and the fulcrum level is broken, I have orderd a replacement ($9.95). The other wheel is in fine shape and I looked at the brake shoes on both wheels and they look almost new, lots of brake pad left. I am mounting them onto a couple frames I have and setting up the brakes and shifting mechanisms on them.

I ordered a 9-pin adapter so that I can hookup a controller I have to the Bafang wheel, but I haven't received it yet. Has anyone gotten the Bafang wheel running and if so what voltage and which controller.
 
I recieved mine earlier this week, but kept forgetting to post up pics and details (too many things going on, and my brain espeically memory for this kind of thing isn't working as well as before this past few weeks). PIcs are just attached in bulk to the end of the post, not inline (so apologies for the "mess").

The box appeared mostly intact on the outside, but was a bit beat up. The problems begin on the inside, however, because there was no packing in the box to keep the wheels from bashing each other up hard, and causing some significant damage to each other. There were bits of cardboard that looked from the axle-sized holes in them, and deep imprints of various motor, hub, and spoke bits, to have once been placed between the wheels, but had long since passed out and collapsed into cardboard comaland at the "bottom' of the box, along with some ziploc bags of hardware that were mostly closed, and one piece of black plastic.

The black plastic bit had broken off of one of the shifting plates on an IGH hub. I can probably glue it back on to repair it, but even a modest attempt at packing the wheels as if someone cared would probably have prevented the breakage in the first place.

The next worst damage was the severe bashing and probably unfixable bending of one of the disc rotors on one of the motors. Without using the calipers, just checking by eye, it's something nearing a centimeter out of true.

Next is some severe cable damage to the motor wiring on one of the hubmotors, which is often seen on poorly mounted hubmotors, but in this case I can see marks in the jacket that indicate an axle end struck it at least once, and probably ground on it for a while, or repeatedly, or both. I'll have to open this one up to pull the wiring inside and cut the damaged part out and splice it back together.

After that, it's a bunch of bent and bashed spokes in the wheels. Might not be enough damage to make them unsafe to ride, but it certainly put them all out of true, and will require retensioning and retruing all four wheels. Didn't expect to have to do that, but at least I know how.

One of the hardware bags contained three (?) disc brake calipers; I suppose the third is intended as a spare. Another bag contained all of the mounting hardware (axle nuts, lockwashers, torque washers) for the hubmotors. Anothher bag contained most of the mounting hardware (axle nuts, lockwashers, torque washers, and part of the cable-fixing / adjustment bits) for the IGH's. That bag was the least closed of the three, so perhaps the other piece(s?) snuck out during the destruction derby ride everything went thru on the way here, due to the lack of packing and care by the shippers at Batteryclearinghouse.

Plenty of other bashmarks in various places on the wheels, mostly around the middle where axles struck as they partied in the box on the way here.

Haven't tested anything yet, but I expect they'll all work, despite the damage.

Only one wheel came with a Schwalbe, the other three are Kenda "moped" tires (though I don't know any mopeds that use 26" wheels, so...I don't believe it. (and I don't really trust Kenda tires anyway, but they *are* all in virtually brand new condition, and still even have the "hairs" on them for the most part, along with teh molding line in the center of the tread area, so I'll use them till they wear out. )




I had intended to use these (especially the IGHs with the drum brakes) on the large duallie Mk IV.5 trailer, but forgot that the trailer was built for four front wheels, and these IGHs are common rear wheel spacing of 135mm (unlike the other SA IGHs I have that are the same as the front spacing, 110mm I think). So I will have to modify the trailer frame to use them. No biggie, just adds more work to the pile. :/

Optionally, I have two regular bicycles that could use these, unmodified.

One is a complete Nishiki bike that I don't use because it isn't powered and I really can't ride any useful distance under pure pedal power anymore, at least not on something that isnt' a trike that I can just sit there in a super low gear and keep cranking very slowly but still move a little bit, without straining my joints. It's a little tall to straddle these days, but I could use it for a backup bike. Id' rather use the Trek that fits me better, but that one uses very narrow rims, might even be a larger diameter, so wont' fit the rims on these wheels (could relace...but not sure I want to get into that).

The other is a cruiser frame with a built in (welded) rear rack. It's not a great frame, but it's lower and I could ride it, and it has a rack I could put panniers on easily enough. Would need to add disc brake caliper mounts to it's fork (the one in the pics is not for the bike, was just used to hold some other wheel in it at some point for I think a truing).


I'm not sure now which one to use these wheels on. I do still need four matching wheels for the trailer, with brakes...so I'm going to check with BCH, despite their lack of caring about the condition of their customers' purchases, and see if they still have four more IGH wheels for really cheap, just to use for the trailer. If so, I'll probalby get them, and hope they arrive in better condition than this set (possibly, just because they wont have the heavier hubmotor pair, and will just be the four IGHs).
 

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If your box was as carefully packed and sealed as mine was :lol: then your calipers might've gotten off the train a stop or two early. :/

I've also tried twice to buy a set of four IGH wheels, via email since they don't have any of this stuff listed on their site, and have yet to get any response from them.
 
He's dropped off my radar as well. Last I heard about a month ago was that he was hoping to get things listed again soon. I assume that would be on the battery clearing house site.. maybe not. I also assume he's a busy guy, and I suspect he might be in the process of sourcing out controllers and such to try and put together a package of some sort. I hope he doesn't do that...
 
Is this curved rim going to be okay on a 1990s MTB with caliper brakes? I'm thinking it will brake decently as soon as the brake surface wears down to have a curved surface, the same as the curved rim. Alternatively, how hard is it to install a non-hydraulic front disc brake on a rigid 1990s MTB like a Specialized Rock Hopper-- does it require changing forks? Or, maybe there's a third possibility-- is locking the motor's freewheel possible, so I could e-brake?

Also, the deal is currently one front wheel with Bafang motor and tire (Schwalbe Marathon shown in photo, but not mentioned in written description) for $55 plus about $17 for shipping. Should I go ahead and buy it? I'm still in the "reading/learning" phase, but this seems like too good a deal to pass up-- the Schwalbe tire seems to make this a no-brainer, and I'm thinking 15-20mph is going to be my target speed, on a 1990s rigid chromoly MTB, so I'm likely to just swap front wheels.
 
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