Deal on motors/wheels

Also, would this motor stall out or overheat on a 3mi 9% grade? I've pedaled up this grade many times without a motor (at about 3.5mph, which equals 125W according to http://kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm ). With an ebike I would probably reduce pedal effort by about 1/3.

Trying to answer my own question, https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?motor=MG01_STD&grade=9&hp=75&throt=20&batt=B4810_LiF shows the maximum "never overheat" speed as 3.7mph, with 49% efficiency (Why so low?). Inputs are Bafang G01 std (Photo shows "G20" for this one; how comparable is that to G01?), 169W battery output, 9% uphill grade, 48V battery.
 

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What controller should I get for this wheel? Also, is it worth paying extra for a controller that has a 9-pin connector, or does it make more sense to cut off the motor's 9-pin connector and just directly solder and heat-shrink the wire connections?
 
Even though Guy never bothered to respond to me, despite multiple attempts to buy more stuff from him, they do still have the motor wheels on their site, though unfortunately no more IGH wheels listed. (since he stopped responding to me I don't know if they ran out or just trashed them, or what, and he never did make any of the shifters/etc available).


They also have this info there, if it is useful to anyone (and if it is correct):

Engine Model - FM G020.250/350.D 10

BAFANG DC36V BLDC A2 Specs

Position Front Motor
Construction Gear drive
Rated Voltage (DCV) 36
n0 (Rpm) 325 ; 245
Rated Power (W) 250/350
nT(Rpm) 205
Max Torque 45 N.m
Efficiency (%) ≥ 80
Weight (kg) 3.3
Noise Grade (dB) < 55
Operating Temperature -20-45℃
Mounting Parameters
Brake Disc Brake
Installation Widths (mm / OLD) 100
Max. Housing Diameter (mm) 158
Cabling Route Shaft Side, Right
Cable Length(mm), Connection Type 250 G9.1
Spoke Specification 36H*13G
Further Specifications
Speed Detection Signal (Pulses/Cycle) 6
Reduction Ratio 1:5
Magnet Poles (2P) 20
 
Hi all

I bought the same wheel with hub motor. Has anyone figured out how to wire the phase wires and hall sensors wires yet?
I am going to buy a cheap brushless controller off of ebay that has the 3 phase wires an 5 hall sensor wires.
I wonder how to wire all of the wires or is it trial and error?

Anybody got them to work?
 
Buy a sensorless controller and you won't have to worry about finding the right phase/hall wire combo.


Have fun! :wink:


111.jpg
 
I read somewhere that running a hub wheel without the hall sensors could blow the motor or controller under normal conditions.
 
So have anybody got these wheel hub motor units to work?
Seems like many were sold.
 
davmice said:
So have anybody got these wheel hub motor units to work?
Seems like many were sold.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=110408&p=1617924&hilit=350w+jump+bafang#p1617924
 
thanks for the link. But nobody has given any real details about the wire hookup. i guess some of it is trial and error.
 
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said:
Hm, the motors might be neat for a basic twin-motor bike, but the more important thing (to me) is that the Strumey-archer IGH there is claimed to withstand the 3000w cyclone motor's torque.

Greetings, who claimed 3000 watts on that IGH?
 
GIGATT said:
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said:
Hm, the motors might be neat for a basic twin-motor bike, but the more important thing (to me) is that the Strumey-archer IGH there is claimed to withstand the 3000w cyclone motor's torque.

Greetings, who claimed 3000 watts on that IGH?

I'm running a Cyclone motor with Sturmey IGH. No problems so far but I never shift with power on and I'm only drawing around 2,000 watts full power. Here's a pic of my bike. OOPS, can't upload pic. I keep getting an error message "it was not possible to determine the dimensions of the image." :?
 
E-Vortex said:
Here's a link to you tube video. Hopefully this works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiAXOAHdG8A

Is the only function of the rear arms for a kick stand, or can it double as a wheelie bar??
 
Thanks for the prompt response.


I rigged a Sturmey Archer that worked fine at 36v and maybe 52 volts. At 72 volts. It lasted about one quick throttle pull. I feel like the Sturmey is not all the way broken and only the external adjuster part broke.



Sometimes I get a similar error message when I try to upload an image from my phone. It is much easier on PC.. can even do an HD image,. Just click the attachment then drag and drop. Makes me want to try desktop mode on my phone,

Thanks again.
 
E-HP said:
E-Vortex said:
Here's a link to you tube video. Hopefully this works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiAXOAHdG8A

Is the only function of the rear arms for a kick stand, or can it double as a wheelie bar??

LOL! No, just a kick stand. The bike has too long of a wheelbase to pop wheelies which is probably a good thing. :D
 
GIGATT said:
Thanks for the prompt response.


I rigged a Sturmey Archer that worked fine at 36v and maybe 52 volts. At 72 volts. It lasted about one quick throttle pull. I feel like the Sturmey is not all the way broken and only the external adjuster part broke.



Sometimes I get a similar error message when I try to upload an image from my phone. It is much easier on PC.. can even do an HD image,. Just click the attachment then drag and drop. Makes me want to try desktop mode on my phone,

Thanks again.

No problem. I'm running at 51.2 volts nominal. I had a 72v pack in it briefly but the acceleration was neck breaking and I was afraid it would rip that hub to pieces. :shock: When I first finished the bike I was getting chain skip on the rear cog but didn't realize it and thought it was coming from the hub. So I figured if that motor was pulling enough power to make the chain skip but not damaging the hub then I was good to go. Thanks for the tip on uploading pics, I might have to try it.
 
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