Did i buy the wrong size spokes?

[MarkJohnston]

Did i buy the wrong size? I get a feeling it could work but I'm not sure. Can you guys even do anything with just pictures? I can't bend these spokes

 

[MarkJohnston]

Do you guys also think if brass washers are in order here? Here is a thicker 12 G spoke at the flange for comparison. I dont want these spokes ripping out or the flange cracking.

Last pic is the 12G

Flange holes measure at 3mm. These are 2.3 mm (13G) at the bend (butted)

 

[Bigwheel]

Why don't people here just use the Grin Spoke Calculator? They have all the hub motor sizes and many of the rim ERD's that match up perfectly depending on the pattern you choose? I use it exclusively for hub motor wheel builds and it hasn't ever steered me wrong.

And no you can't tell from the pictures. Go to the above and re-caluculate using your parameters and measure those spokes against that.

 

[docw009]

I don't do the spokes in a stand, maybe I should. I do 9 on both sides first, then give the hub a twist to tighten them up and add the first cross spokes. Looks like the cross spokes are in the right hole, so the hub should have the proper twist in it, but you only did one flange, so maybe the hub would come out and make the spokes tighter when you start the other side. Maybe not. Are the nipples screwed all the way down?

They look way too long at this point. and it's not a problem you can solve with washers if the ends of the spokes stick out past the upper wall of the rim.

Are these spokes that you bought based off the Grin calculator?

 

[MarkJohnston]

I don't do the spokes in a stand, maybe I should. I do 9 on both sides first, then give the hub a twist to tighten them up and add the first cross spokes. Looks like the cross spokes are in the right hole, so the hub should have the proper twist in it, but you only did one flange, so maybe the hub would come out and make the spokes tighter when you start the other side. Maybe not. Are the nipples screwed all the way down?

They look way too long at this point. and it's not a problem you can solve with washers if the ends of the spokes stick out past the upper wall of the rim.

Are these spokes that you bought based off the Grin calculator?

Yeah i used the grin calc but I'm actually feeling like these are too short. No the nipples are barely threaded on. I'm afraid to start the other flange i will have to bend the spokes a bit. I could barely reach the nipples with the spokes once this side was mostly laced

The washers would be too prevent the flanges from cracking. Do the spokes look too small for the flange? Ignore the last picture(12G different wheel)

 

[MarkJohnston]

It looks like they are indeed too short. I already have the tension maxed out with a few threads showing. Maybe the tension will get better as the wheel gets built up fully but I doubt it. Most likely going to have to let off some tension. I couldn't even zero out the spokes ! Well I can't return the spokes now so I will just ride it and see.

 

[MarkJohnston]

Something strange in happening. I am trying to balance the tension in the wheel but can't do it. Every time i change spoke tension in one area the whole wheels entire spoke tension changes. I swear I evenly reduced the tension in the entire wheel but I checked the tension with the TM-1 and somehow the tensions went up!

 

[99t4]

What thickness spokes and is the TM-1 designed to be accurate for that size spokes?

 

[MarkJohnston]

What thickness spokes and is the TM-1 designed to be accurate for that size spokes?

2.0 and yes it is suppose to work. I am not sure what is going on. the spokes are too short some are showing 5 threads at max tension. I am just going to have to roll with it. I don't have $50 for more spokes. I am hoping putting the tire on will relax some of the tension on spokes.

I am realizing just how difficult it is to have a wheel with perfect radial, lateral, dish, and tension balance. The wheel itself has a problem near the seam, WTF... Rhyno lite...

 

[MarkJohnston]

The wheel is fully built and is pretty much radial, lateral true and dished. The tensions just couldn't be balanced. We will see with time how long this thing holds up. Its on my beater bike/ crap hub motor. I honestly just did this to have a back up bike so I can work on my other one. But honestly I wouldn't want to ride this more than 3 miles away from where I live.

I am curious. This rim the " Rhyno Lite XL" made by sun rims. It has those metal "eylets" around the the spoke holes in the rim. would those allow me to up the tension BEYOND what the manufacturer told me(100-110 KGF)? I heard that rims like these can take a whole lot more. I also have a bad feeling with all the cargo i carry it's going to put a lot of stress on the wheel. I want to do 130 KGF. Are these manufacturer limits on the safe side? After ruining a brand new rim before I am starting to get paranoid and over analyze everything.