The current in the string is even.
The heating in the string is never even.
The mechanism that creates the heat isn't in additional current consumption (that remains dead-even in a series string), but in additional voltage drop due to increased resistances.
This effect of the first and last cell in the string getting hammered harder than the others is something I observed with many pack designs, from pouch cells to 26650/18650 cans.
I can tell you what stops it for pouch cells (and may work for can's as well, but I've not tried it). Make the connection points to the ends of the cell strings from what seems like very 'excessive' thickness copper, and get the connection resistance as low as mechanically possible. Once you do this, you find the ends of the strings stop drifting down in relation to the other cells. A good ballpark would be calculating what size bus cross section you think you need, then multiply by perhaps 5x for your end taps on the cell string.
Similarly on this topic, don't solder cell tabs, you definitely are damaging them. Don't weld them in a process that uses multiple types of metal either. Any process that heats the cell's tabs has already failed IMHO.
arkmundi said:
But high IR is indicative of lithium plating.
A pouch filled with gas would be a better indicator of lithium plating. High Ri can occur due to a structure being mechanically broken by the creation of metallic lithium crystals in cases of extreme charge rates at low temperatures. This is not related to this mechanism, nor do cells with lithium plating on the anode have high Ri, they have fantastic Ri while it's plated, they suck after you've discharged it and you're left with a crumpled anode structure.
arkmundi said:
So there is in fact less capacity in the cell. The chemistry of the electrolyte is degraded and the resistance of the cathode is increased. I believe you may be right that some current may show up as heat, so completely wasted as well.
Are you saying the capacity is reduced because of the mistaken belief metallic lithium formed in the cell? I can assure you, unless they are being charged in very cold conditions at high rates, you've never had any metallic lithium in your cells, and be glad about that. Increased temperatures can and do age the cells more rapidly, and this does cause components of the electrolyte to decompose more rapidly and cause surface reactions with active materials that make them inactive.
arkmundi said:
It'd be good to find some academic battery scientists to chime in. These guys are often more than delighted to talk to the public & media. So we have a far more enlightened point of view informing our understanding.
The solution is to have extremely low resistance cell interconnects on the ends of the cell strings, combined with even pressures on the surface of the cells. In a pouch cell, if your pressure against the face of the cell isn't even, the areas of highest pressure have the shortest ionic path, and hence carry the bulk of the current demand in local concentrated points that fail prematurely from being over-stressed.
To do a battery right:
1. Extremely low, and EQUAL cell interconnect resistances, including at the ends of the string (for at least 6" or so before dropping to a smaller thickness current conductor).
2. No processes that involve heating the cells, especially on the tabs. This is a delicate vacuum sealed hot-melt glue joint sealing the tab/pouch interface, and you can compromise it and/or destroy the cell simply be applying a bit of heat. You may have no awareness you've compromised the cell for months, maybe a year even before it starts puffing or worse.
3. You must provide even and flat mechanical support for cells, and ONLY ever clamp through the Z-axis. Never squish the sides of a pouch, never even let them carry the weight of the cell on it's side.
4. Thoroughly cleaned and de-burred surfaces contacting pouches ONLY! If you scrape through the extremely thin polyethylene layer on the outside of the foil (which you can do simply by setting it down on a table that has 1 tiny spec of a sharp sand particle on it), your cell will fail (can take months, but will start a corrosion spot and fail there).
5. Do NOT permit the foil pouches from cells at different potentials to contact each other. In theory all the pouches are galvanically isolated. In practice, the inside layer often has defects and pin-holes, which will eventually manifest as spotting and inner aluminum foil layer of the pouch de-laminating and failing. Some internal pin-holes will last many years before failing if they never see voltage stress. Introduce voltage-stress on that pin-hole (from touching other pouch foils at other potentials) and the same failure that would have taken years can take a week.
6. Don't flex or bend your cells. Period. I am aware they are soft, and tempting to pick-up and handle. You are breaking them when you do, set them on a clip-board or something to move them, with them always laying dead-nuts flat.
7. Lastly, you must protect the cells from all moisture intrusion, even water vapors (as they condense when the temp differential permits). This last step can be quite a challenge for DIY pack builders, and as a result many DIY packs fail from humidity related corrosion.
If you follow those 7 steps, you're still not guaranteed a long-term successful pack, but at least you aren't guaranteeing a pack failure by design.