E-bike Brakes thread, please add what you know

I just re-read this whole thread....

I have an older Yuba Mundo (Vers 2) with BB7 disc on the front and rim brakes on the back. As Chalo suggested, I used Kool-Stop MTB dual compound pads for the rear wheel and I can lock up the rear wheel going 20+ mph carrying in excess of 400 lbs.
I would not want to lay it sideways!

In addition to the Kool-Stop's working great, I'd like to comment....
There were allot of flames thrown in this thread, not only is Chalo knowledgeable, He sure keeps a Kool-head!
 
I put (with help from JRH) a 203mm Hayes Stroker on the front of my mountain e-bike, and they have worked out quite well.

DSC_0689.JPG


On the rear I went with Shimano XTR, with parallelogram pad motion, a very high end rim brake, because there are no disc brake mounts on this old Novara frame (I really should get regen going, that would probably reduce or eliminate the need for the rear brakes):

DSC_5227.JPG


On the heavier and faster Greyborg I used dual 160mm disc 4 pot Gatorbrakes in the front:

DSC_9222.JPG


And then recently updated the Borg with the new 203mm Tektro Auriga e-brakes that have built in switch and a parking switch that locks them on:

14%2520-%25201.jpg


On the Greyborg's rear brake there is not much room alongside the Cromotor so I'm using e-braking with the modified Sabvoton controller from zombiess. This has plenty of capability for a rear brake, I have adjusted it to almost skid the rear tire on dry pavement, and during testing had plenty of settings that produced skidding so I know it is capable. I can't use much more rear braking than that in the rear wheel.

Regen as a rear brake is not ideal from a reliability standpoint, it requires the controller, motor and battery to be working, and the battery must not be too full to accept charging (unless your regen has a plug braking (resistive load) option). But it doesn't wear your pads/shoes, and it produces some charging to the battery (generally not a lot). Some batteries won't accept charging very fast which limits the amount of regen braking that can be used, and many controllers have poor control over the braking amount. But for descending long grades they work well and keep your brakes cool for that emergency stop you might need.

When it comes to disc vs rim brakes, a couple of things I've experienced - not all rims are set up for rim brakes (such as moped or motorcycle rims), and not all frames have the right mounts in the right place, especially when changing wheel sizes. Smoking hot disc brakes don't cause problems for the tire or tube and they don't cause rim wear. When discs wear they are much easier to replace than rims. The higher temperature helps them dry quickly in wet weather, and their height above the surface reduces their getting wet from surface grass and mud. Rim brakes aren't used on mopeds or motorcycles, they are really optimal for low weight low inertia machines but not so much for higher power/speed/momentum applications. It seems to me that rim brakes require more fiddling than discs to keep them from squealing and properly adjusted. Just a touch of moisture shuts them off and they don't dry out easily or stay dry long.

Based on what I've seen I'd advocate a front disc, or dual disc while on the rear anything should be adequate - rim, disc, or regen. I haven't worked with drums since my moped and they were a weak point there, but modern drums may be a different story.
 
Alan B said:
I put (with help from JRH) a 203mm Hayes Stroker on the front of my mountain e-bike, and they have worked out quite well.

DSC_0689.JPG


On the rear I went with Shimano XTR, with parallelogram pad motion, a very high end rim brake, because there are no disc brake mounts on this old Novara frame (I really should get regen going, that would probably reduce or eliminate the need for the rear brakes):

DSC_5227.JPG


On the heavier and faster Greyborg I used dual 160mm disc 4 pot Gatorbrakes in the front:

DSC_9222.JPG


And then recently updated the Borg with the new 203mm Tektro Auriga e-brakes that have built in switch and a parking switch that locks them on:

14%2520-%25201.jpg


On the Greyborg's rear brake there is not much room alongside the Cromotor so I'm using e-braking with the modified Sabvoton controller from zombiess. This has plenty of capability for a rear brake, I have adjusted it to almost skid the rear tire on dry pavement, and during testing had plenty of settings that produced skidding so I know it is capable. I can't use much more rear braking than that in the rear wheel.

Regen as a rear brake is not ideal from a reliability standpoint, it requires the controller, motor and battery to be working, and the battery must not be too full to accept charging (unless your regen has a plug braking (resistive load) option). But it doesn't wear your pads/shoes, and it produces some charging to the battery (generally not a lot). Some batteries won't accept charging very fast which limits the amount of regen braking that can be used, and many controllers have poor control over the braking amount. But for descending long grades they work well and keep your brakes cool for that emergency stop you might need.

When it comes to disc vs rim brakes, a couple of things I've experienced - not all rims are set up for rim brakes (such as moped or motorcycle rims), and not all frames have the right mounts in the right place, especially when changing wheel sizes. Smoking hot disc brakes don't cause problems for the tire or tube and they don't cause rim wear. When discs wear they are much easier to replace than rims. The higher temperature helps them dry quickly in wet weather, and their height above the surface reduces their getting wet from surface grass and mud. Rim brakes aren't used on mopeds or motorcycles, they are really optimal for low weight low inertia machines but not so much for higher power/speed/momentum applications. It seems to me that rim brakes require more fiddling than discs to keep them from squealing and properly adjusted. Just a touch of moisture shuts them off and they don't dry out easily or stay dry long.

Based on what I've seen I'd advocate a front disc, or dual disc while on the rear anything should be adequate - rim, disc, or regen. I haven't worked with drums since my moped and they were a weak point there, but modern drums may be a different story.


omg , please , i need more info about that double rotors on the front !!!!! is this custom made ? what company ?type of hub ? is there better ? anything would be appreciated .
i have saints on both wheels , but 74v system got me to bottom of the pads in a month ! ( 75kmh ) .
also where can i get the mount for a second caliper and a dual disk hub ?
 
You need the hub and the fork. Only one that I know of, it was sold by Zelena Vozila in Croatia. Check their website, they might still have it.

Yet, there is a reason to wear your brake pads in a month. If you don't solve the reason, you will only end with more pads to replace. Avoid racing pads for they are made for very short life. Use Bimetalic endurance pads of good quality. Tune your brakes so they don't stick and rub. Use quality 203mm rotors in good condition. Avoid long braking distances, try to optimize your braking short and neat. Use regen.
 
I just use regular dual compound kool stop pads but they have e bike specific pads now.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Lightweight-Version-Electric/dp/B00D6016MM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490150300&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+bike+kool+stop

Also theres a 1000$ downhill front fork that comes with dual disc brake rotors.

Here it is.

https://risseracing.com/store/product_info.php/cPath/21/products_id/362/osCsid/509089c15e8615455c5149ce98f395b3
 
guys , i'm about to complete my second ebike , and use my old saints ( dual piston ) on it for a while .
i used to replace the brake pads every month , which is pretty expensive and annoying . ( 72v battery , 80a controller , 3000w motor )
do you familiar with
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gatorbrake-8-Piston-Hydraulic-Brakes-Rotors-Front-Left-900-IS-Right-Rear-1500-IS/370728396895?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dcbfb5eead8b04b64a6ca37038d0ca4e9%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D272847167877&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042

gator brakes 8 pistons ?
will i ride longer than a month with the same brakepads ?

i am very desperate in a search of a good brakes that will be able to handle the power and the weight for a decent amount of time .
( 80km\h , 50 kg bike , 77 kg me )
 
Has anyone tried and succeded at using rear hub motor to break at back. If you have good frame to lock the wheel in and maybe add some resistors to avoid damaging battery, the stopping power could be substantial. I guess they have that on cars already just wonder if anyone got it working well enough on ebike to be able to remove rear brake.

Edit: am sorry, I ask, then I read about it on first page.. :) plug brake is what i was looking for
 
Many threads about regen braking. Yet, you need to know that a bike does unload the rear dramaticly on hard braking. No good braking can come from the rear, short braking distance can only be achieved with the front for it does load and grip with braking. Front regen is effective, but a front motor does add a lot of weight and inertia to a bike's handling.
 
The longer and lower a frame is, it will create more potential for the rear tire to add some braking to the bike.

The worst-case scenario is for a short and high frame, using a tire that is thin and high-pressure, like the classic "single-speed / fixie" road bike that is much-loved by college students. Such a rear tire would lock up easily, rather than dissipate the braking heat, or provide the best possible regen-braking...
 
Let's say you drive a 30ft truck. Do you believe that you could achieve a short braking distance with rear brakes?

While it is true that a longer bike will have improved brakes on the rear, it is still the front that does most of the braking job. The front brake may vary from 90% to 70% of total braking effect with geometry and weight distribution but still. The better the brake that you have on the front, the less the rear is important. The most important use of a rear brake IMO, is to correct a jump while flying. :wink:
Seriously, the rear brake is really useful on some bad surface conditions, and steep DH.
 
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