E-bike Brakes thread, please add what you know

llile said:
izeman said:
spinningmagnets said:
or here http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38848&start=25#p691975
this i how i did it. it's a bit of work to find the correct position for switch/magnet, but it works nice.

Nice hack, but you can alsojust buy one. Not that hacking something you can just buy isn't totally worth it, I do it all the time, but just in case other folks might not know this.

that's for mechanical disc brakes. and the brake levers are crap compared to some decent brands like avid, shimano ...
the only other solution for hydraulic disc brakes is the magura inline switch

magura%20switch.JPG


but to use that you have to cut the hose, and refill and breatch the line afterwards.
 
briogio said:
I can't believe nobody's brought up Magura hydraulic rim brakes. I came from a motorcycling background and they just made sense to me right away. I raced and distributed them in the early '90's in Eastern Canada. There is no arcing of the regular rim brakes they go straight on like a disc. They're a sealed hydraulic system using basically mineral oil. Magura are a German company who have been making motorcycle brakes for years, they turn your wheel into a 26" disc, easily crush through snow, mud water, don't fade, excellent modulation, pad choice, quite cheap and simple (all the trials guys use them, for good reason). IMHO these are the best bicycle brakes by far and if your really anal you can plasma/ceramic coat your rims! :twisted:

and they are still in production :D

http://www.magura.com/en/bicyclecomp/products/79-2013/rim-brakes.html

about the ebrake for hydraulics:

2zhmrdd.jpg


simple ghetto ultra cheap solution => glue the reedswitch, hide the magnet in the lever or mount the magnet with heatschrink

I've recently discovered that magnets from old hard drives are so powerfull you don't even need to put it close to the reedswitch ;) (just cut / break the magnet in pieces if it is to big :lol: )
 
3nslav3 said:
and they are still in production :D
What about frames, forks and strong rims?
And not some weak heavy DM24 stuff, I mean welded rims with eyelets. Is EN521 the only choice?
BTW those brakes chew through rims on regular basis.

Good brakes though.
Perfect for trial riders. Unless it's Danny MacAskill or Chris Akrigg :p
For ebikes on the other hand.. nah.
 
full-throttle said:
And not some weak heavy DM24 stuff, I mean welded rims with eyelets.

DM24 rims have eyelets.

If you think welded rims are stronger, it just shows that you have no idea how rims carry loads. (Or that you run slack spokes, or both.)
 
I still have some HS 33 and HS 22 on some of my bikes. They are precise and strong enough to damage a cheap rim, yet they are good only as long as the wheel is straight and the rim has no dents. For mountain riding or high speed ebike, I gave up on them for they just can't compare with the Gustav M that I use on most of my bikes. On my road racing ebike, I have both on the front and I love it because they share the heat, although it was PITA to get them both to work evenly on the same brake line.
imag0303s.jpg
 
Chalo said:
If you think welded rims are stronger, it just shows that you have no idea how rims carry loads. (Or that you run slack spokes, or both.)
And I can say the same about you TROLL. Besides you have just admitted welded rims are stronger when the spoke tension is "slack" :lol:
I've seen far too many rims fail at the pinned join. Then again I ride hard, unlike you.

Back on topic. Enough of this troll.
 
izeman said:
that's for mechanical disc brakes. and the brake levers are crap compared to some decent brands like avid, shimano ...
the only other solution for hydraulic disc brakes is the magura inline switch

magura%20switch.JPG


but to use that you have to cut the hose, and refill and breatch the line afterwards.

I just installed a set on the rear of my wife's new bike. One thing to keep in mind about these is that they do not work without fluid. So, if you lose pressure (rare, but possible) the motor-cut won't work.

So, as a fail-safe, her front handle has a built-in reed switch (I assume it's a reed; Tektro e-sub) if she happens to lose all pressure for some crazy reason, the motor will still get cut.
 
I lucked into Magura HS22's rim hydros and while I love the heck out of 'em I wouldn't spend crazy money to seek them out. Older frames/forks lacking caliper mounts, maybe? But, gotta have good straight rims - if you can find 'em cheap enough, they're a really great feel...

I recently outfitted wife bike with Avid Elixir 7 front disc and it's a nice feeling brake. Seems to heat quick with my grip but fine for the way she rides. Cheap enough though.

Always fascinated with brake discussions. They often go the way of "Oil change" threads on motors' boards, LOL.... I like and have used many type brakes - well executed, any design exhibits pros & cons which I find enjoyable to explore.
 
I have some HS22 brakes in the pile, but having fooled around with early Magura hydraulic rim brakes over 20 years ago, I'm not anxious to put them into use. They just don't do anything so much better than cable brakes as to be worth the extra effort, or the binary nature of their failure. They are strong, I'll grant you that-- much stronger than any disc brakes. But so are boosted V-brakes, while being easier to live with in several ways.
 
Chalo said:
For a wheel in good repair, the change in spoke tension when hub braking isn't very much.

In a 36 spoke wheel that's consistently and uniformly tensioned, that 200 pound tangential load would be divided evenly among 18 spokes that get tighter and 18 spokes that get looser. None of them will have a problem with that;
... the bike's weight, which is borne by about four spokes at a time in each wheel, causes much larger tension excursions. ..

FYI : incase you missed it ... i would not want you to live with a misunderstanding of spoke loadings.
300 lb bike weight spread over 8 spokes ( actually more) = 37.5 lbf in each spoke. ( probably less in reality )
200 lbf braking load ( actually much more !) spread over 18 spokes = 137 lbf in each spoke ( could be nearer 200lbf per spoke in reality !)
 
Just one thing to note about the magura inline switch:

magura%20switch.JPG



I think that switch only works for mineral oil based system.
IIRC someone tried it on DOT system & it kept eating the seals & failing. Might need to do a search to confirm that...

EDIT: see info on Disc Brakes for e-bikes here http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38981
 
Yep, mineral oil and DOT systems are not interchangeable.
As for switching bicycle hydro brake levers, I prefer to install a mechanical switch on the lever itself, with a short switch lever that I can operate independently from the brake. Regen can help a lot to shorten braking distance on a straight line, but lacks precision for slowing down entering a turn on loose terrain. For that reason I prefer to have independent control on brake and regen.
 
Hillhater said:
Chalo said:
For a wheel in good repair, the change in spoke tension when hub braking isn't very much.

In a 36 spoke wheel that's consistently and uniformly tensioned, that 200 pound tangential load would be divided evenly among 18 spokes that get tighter and 18 spokes that get looser. None of them will have a problem with that;
... the bike's weight, which is borne by about four spokes at a time in each wheel, causes much larger tension excursions. ..

FYI : incase you missed it ... i would not want you to live with a misunderstanding of spoke loadings.
300 lb bike weight spread over 8 spokes ( actually more) = 37.5 lbf in each spoke. ( probably less in reality )
200 lbf braking load ( actually much more !) spread over 18 spokes = 137 lbf in each spoke ( could be nearer 200lbf per spoke in reality !)

Where are you getting these numbers? The first case seems to assume a rim quite a bit stiffer than most, and the second case seems to assume a rim with very little stiffness. These are not easy cases to resolve without sophisticated modeling, because of their many variables-- but you can get a sense of the scale of changes in spoke tension by loading the wheel and plucking spokes. A factor of 2 change in tension is close to a musical tritone and not too far from a perfect fifth.

Here is a good finite element analysis of radial loads on a spoked wheel. Note that most of the tension change is in just two spokes. This distribution is highly dependent on rim bending stiffness, though.

Anyway, the maximum torque available from hub braking isn't much different from the highest momentary torque available from pedaling hard in a low gear (both are limited by the tendency of the bike to tip). Disc hubs have larger flanges than most normal rear hubs, which would tend to reduce the tension change resulting from a given wheel torque. Small-flanged drive wheels don't suffer torque related structural problems, as you'd expect if the spoke tension positive excursions were large (selective puckering of the pulling/trailing spoke holes in the rim, for instance, which I have never observed).
 
Another type of brake is the Shimano Hub Roller Brake. It is similar in some aspects to the drum brake as it is enclosed and very low maintenance, basically set and forget, just need to grease the rollers once a year. The brakes performance is not affected by wet weather.

Blurb from the Shimano web site "Shimano NEXUS Roller Brakes use a precision cam-and-roller design that delivers strong yet easily controllable braking power. Sealing channels keep out dirt and water to assure safe and dependable braking performance in wet or dry conditions "

The eZee Sprint uses the Inter-M hub roller brake on the rear 8 speed Internal Geared Hub and I find it works well combined with the 180mm cable disc up front.

The roller brakes are also used on the Australia Post mail delivery e-bikes and trikes.

Unfortunately there is no mention of the hub roller brake on the wiki here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_brake
 
Chalo said:
I have some HS22 brakes in the pile, but having fooled around with early Magura hydraulic rim brakes over 20 years ago, I'm not anxious to put them into use. They just don't do anything so much better than cable brakes as to be worth the extra effort, or the binary nature of their failure. They are strong, I'll grant you that-- much stronger than any disc brakes. But so are boosted V-brakes, while being easier to live with in several ways.

Not so much better but they're different - I seem to feel cable friction more than you but maybe my cables aren't up to proper spec?

I got into the bleeding and repair hoses enough with the Magura and since they were already on the bike = happy camper! But, they do have to come cheap IMO.
 
Chalo said:
Where are you getting these numbers? The first case seems to assume a rim quite a bit stiffer than most, and the second case seems to assume a rim with very little stiffness. These are not easy cases to resolve without sophisticated modeling, because of their many variables-- but you can get a sense of the scale of changes in spoke tension by loading the wheel and plucking spokes. A factor of 2 change in tension is close to a musical tritone and not too far from a perfect fifth.

Here is a good finite element analysis of radial loads on a spoked wheel. Note that most of the tension change is in just two spokes. This distribution is highly dependent on rim bending stiffness, though.
did you actually read that article ? .. This is what he concluded for a wheel supporting 100kg load ...
There are 31 tensile spokes. On average they contribute 1.436 N (0.14 kg, just under a third of a pound) each to holding up the hub.
There are 5 compressive spokes. On average they contribute 191.097N (19 kg, just over 42 lbs) each to holding up the hub.
BUT. if you look at the data the highest ADDITIONAL (tensile) load any spoke is subjected to is 40 N (10lbf) !

Chalo said:
Anyway, the maximum torque available from hub braking isn't much different from the highest momentary torque available from pedaling hard in a low gear (both are limited by the tendency of the bike to tip). Disc hubs have larger flanges than most normal rear hubs, which would tend to reduce the tension change resulting from a given wheel torque. Small-flanged drive wheels don't suffer torque related structural problems, as you'd expect if the spoke tension positive excursions were large (selective puckering of the pulling/trailing spoke holes in the rim, for instance, which I have never observed).

Where my braking load figures (estimates) come from...
Using your (way underestimated) 200lbf force at the tyre, that is a torque of 225 ftlbf ( 13.5" radius on a 26" rim+tyre)
That torque is transmitted through the (18) spokes to the hub at a diameter of 2.3" ( my disc hub), resulting in a tangential force of 2350 lbf at that diameter.
share that 2350 lbf between 18 spokes, and you get approx 130 lbf per spoke extra load due to braking.
And as i said before... i believe your initial 200lbf braking force is totally underestimated to the extent that these spoke loads could almost be doubled !.

Now ,..please explain how you are going to get similar torque figures from any pedal effort ??
 
Hillhater said:
if you look at the data the highest ADDITIONAL (tensile) load any spoke is subjected to is 40 N (10lbf) !

That's right, and it's why I said "change in tension" instead of "increase in tension". Normal stainless steel spokes are usually good to withstand tensile forces close to four times as high as the static tension we aim for. So they don't fail from gross overload; generally they fail from fatigue. Force cycle depth is relevant to the way they fail, as is the number of loadings and unloadings.

Chalo said:
Where my braking load figures (estimates) come from...
Using your (way underestimated) 200lbf force at the tyre, that is a torque of 225 ftlbf ( 13.5" radius on a 26" rim+tyre)
That torque is transmitted through the (18) spokes to the hub at a diameter of 2.3" ( my disc hub), resulting in a tangential force of 2350 lbf at that diameter.
share that 2350 lbf between 18 spokes, and you get approx 130 lbf per spoke extra load due to braking.
And as i said before... i believe your initial 200lbf braking force is totally underestimated to the extent that these spoke loads could almost be doubled !.

First of all, the 200 lbf is based on how much braking force it takes to tip the bike, which is a hard limit on both acceleration and deceleration. The figure I have seen most often for that force is 0.7g maximum, though there is some variation according to wheelbase and weight distribution. If it were possible to brake harder than that, forks would simply not work under forceful braking. I bend steel forks to straighten them relatively often by sitting on the ground, bracing my feet against the crank arms, and pulling the fork legs. I don't have to exert myself very hard to bend a fork straight, and yet the only person I know who has bent forks from braking forces is me.

You ignore the fact that you're not changing the tension in 18 spokes, but in 36 of them. The torsional force is divided by 36.

Now ,..please explain how you are going to get similar torque figures from any pedal effort ??

It should be obvious that the force required to tip the bike backwards under pedaling force alone is similar to that required to tip the bike forwards under braking alone. But let's do the numbers for a normal non-outlying case.

A 200 pound rider is riding in 22/34 low gear with 7 inch cranks. To push away from a dead stop or to surmount a step, he can stand on the forward pedal and even pull up against the bars to increase his apparent weight on the pedal. So in terms of hub torque, that's say 300 pounds momentary pedal force applied at 7/12 of a foot radius, multiplied by a gear ratio of 34/22. That's about 270 lbs-ft at the hub. A typical low-flange rear hub has a 44mm spoke circle, so the force transmitted at a 22mm radius is about 3750 pounds, divided among 36 spokes, for a net change in tension of 104 pounds force per spoke. But in practice, the forces never go nearly that high on a two-wheeler.

If you've ever tried to pedal that hard in that low a gear, you know that the result is just to lift the bike's front wheel off the ground. (Also, if you've ever tried to pedal that hard in that low a gear against a fully locked rear brake, you'd know that no brake can resist the force.) So in practice, the limit of force at the contact patch is less than what I've calculated. That's the same principle as the maximum usable braking force being limited to no more than the force required to tip the bike in the other direction.

I frequently have to take freewheels off of jackshaft hubs from pedicab trikes, where loads can be heavy and there is no chance of wheelies. I have to use a long box wrench, because two sides of the freewheel remover tool are not strong enough to withstand the force required. The edges of the tool have been twisted into a helix from the force of the six-sided wrench. I weigh at least 325 pounds, and I have to surge my whole weight against the other end of the wrench to get them to break free. That is similar to the peak torque these hubs have seen in their service lives to tighten them on.
 
Not being a brake guru I can only speak of the best brakes I have ever used on a bike. Used them in water over my head, mud to the seat post. Carrying three riders instead of one. No Maint and never cleaned. The Brakes on my old Stingray were of the coaster type. Once when I had taken them apart for some reason my dad walked by (Airplane Mechanic) and said "Hey, those are the same type of brake we use on airplanes!"

But they don't seem to be used any more. :mrgreen:
 
Quality coaster and roller brakes are very reliable in any conditions, and they can last a lifetime with minimal maintenance. They are still available, and made even better than before. Yet they are very heavy and lack the precision of modern disc brakes, that is why you will never see them on performance bikes.
 
MadRhino said:
Quality coaster and roller brakes are very reliable in any conditions, and they can last a lifetime with minimal maintenance. They are still available, and made even better than before. Yet they are very heavy and lack the precision of modern disc brakes, that is why you will never see them on performance bikes.

Roller brakes are heavier than discs, and while some of the newer versions are entirely adequate, as you point out they don't have a clear correspondence between lever effort and braking force.

Coaster brakes, new or old, do offer very precise braking as long as their lubrication is plentiful and in good condition. And if you put a coaster brake hub on one side of a balance against a disc hub, lever, rotor, and brake line or cable on the other, I think you'd discover there isn't much (or any) weight penalty. The drawbacks of coaster brakes are that they can only be used on the rear wheel, they can't be used with derailleur gearing, they require different rider habits, they complicate removal of the wheel, and braking effort is proportional to the gear ratio.

It's easy to find both these kinds of brakes on performance bikes whose performance is measured in kilograms carried per trip. It's difficult to make the case that cargo bikes have lower braking requirements overall than racing bikes.
 
Found a glowing review of the new "Tektro TRP Spyke dual-pull disc brake caliper" from topsecretev.com

http://www.topsecretev.com/blog/#!lightbox/0/

Since the cable-pull has a linkage that pulls both sides to the middle, it only requires half the lever movement to actuate (which can be adjusted by careful selection of which levers you mate with these calipers) . Although the pads require a 3mm allen wrench to adjust, both the inner and outer pads are individually adjustable, which would reduce one side occasionally dragging.

These are a lighter version of the "Spyre" model, and were developed for mountain bikes.

I am a huge fan of front disc brakes at any speed over 20-MPH (32-km/h), and I also feel that rear rim brakes using Kool-Stop pads should be adequate for even the most demanding street commuter below 30-MPH (48-km/h), due to the weight of the bike shifting forward when braking.

The inner half of this caliper appears to be relatively thin, which is a concern for mounting to a hubmotor. However, most high-powered hubs are on the rear, and front hubs are usually low-to-mid powered (which should be well-served by a quality rim-brake).
 
Rim brakes are fine for road bikes and cheap MT bikes that stay on a DRY bike path even off road use when they are dry with a rider 200lbs or less , but E-bikes are faster a lot faster and heavier more mass to stop . We are spending over $1200 or a lot more to convert are bikes to fast sometimes over 40mph e bikes and some of you are putting all this money and time on a cheap dumpster bike with rim brakes this is simply dangerous and should be discouraged.
 
This topic came across right on time, reed switches had never came across my mind, I'm going to add turn signals and brake lights to my ebike, and I was thinking how to detect brake action, reed switches seem just perfect.
 
Chalo said:
The drawbacks of coaster brakes are that they can only be used on the rear wheel, they can't be used with derailleur gearing, they require different rider habits, they complicate removal of the wheel, and braking effort is proportional to the gear ratio.
Actually, you *can* use a coaster brake on the front wheel, though it won't be used in the intended way:

You'd need to have a brake lever for it, whose cable is used (probably via a lever or pulley system to give the correct length of pull on the brake) to pull either a length of chain on the sprocket, or via a hole drilled thru the sprocket or other clamping method to the sprocket, or replacing the sprocket iwth a ring with hole or lever arm.

I never got aroudn to trying it, but I was going to do this for one of my never-built trike designs to get me front brakes on hubs with built-in sprockets.

Another way to use them (the original method I'd planned) was to have the motor I'd've had driving the sprockets on them reverse and then hold during braking, but this got complex electrically.


Dunno that either one of them is a *good* idea, but both ways should allow coaster brakes on a front wheel. ;) (and there are probalby other ways I havent' thought of, or did and forgot)



As for rim brakes being dangerous: I suspect that those who say so haven't tried much in the way of good rim brakes, with well-adjusted wheels and brakes.

(neither have I, but I wouldn't dismiss rim brakes as dangerous: there are disc brakes on motorcycles that are simply a disc nearly at the rim, and thus simply work as if they were a very thin rim. There is no reason you couldn't make rim brakes that would fit that same motorcycle, in a way that would do the same job as the nearly-rim-sized disc, as long as the rim was made well enough to handle the pressure against it from the pads, and the calipers were designed for the purpose.)

There's advantages and disadvantages to both rim and disc (and all the other kinds), but neither one is inherently "unsafe" or "dangerous" simply because it *is* a rim or a disc brake.

If it's a crappy brake in the first place, it makes no difference if it's rim or disc. ;)
 
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