electricscooterparts.com a rippoff company

[fleebell]

I just got in a controller from those folks and wired it up according to their instructions and it doesn't work. It has no power going to either the throttle control or to the voltage indicator. The only thing that does work is the reverse relay in the box but no power to the motor at all.

After calling them up and getting 20 questions about how I wired it, I was told it was correct but since they have a little tag on the bag is comes in that says once the bag is opened it's not returnable and I just lost $70. That's not posted on their website either about electrical items not being able to be returned if they don't work..

I've been building scooters and electric bikes for over 10 years and I do know how to follow instructions but that doesn't help if the controller doesn't work from the factory.

Lee

(I just edited that message, It would probably cost me more that it was worth to take them to small claims about it. I will just order another controller somewhere else next month - I'm disabled - tight budget) I don't understand them really, I've ordered stuff from there over the years and never had this response. Live and Learn I guess........)

 

[Ypedal]

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23447&hilit=electricscooterparts

 

[fleebell]

I have a dead from the factory $70 controller that they won't replace so as far as I'm concerned they are a rippoff. I've been a regular customer buying stuff from them for quite a number of years but I won't be anymore..

What's funny about it is the guy on the phone told me they and the factory tested every controller going out the door. I know that's pure bull as the only type of electronics that get every piece tested on an assembly line is expensive stuff. Mission critical type stuff. It's too expensive to do in man hours otherwise. Scooter controllers don't fall into that category. They might test some but not every one because I have a dead one that proves it.

 

[friedwires]

yup!!!! ESP sucks

 

[Lessss]

http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fblog.jitbit.com%2F2011%2F04%2Fchinese-magic-drive.html&h=ce56bhttp://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fblog.jitbit.com%2F2011%2F04%2Fchinese-magic-drive.html&h=ce56b


Fake hard drives. It's a cultural thing.

 

[amberwolf]

So they won't warranty it, even though it's DOA? I'm not surprised by that, but not happy either.

If not, the controller might be fixable anyway. Can you post pics of it? Preferably of the guts, but I know they pot some of those things so it might be tougher to take apart and fix. But I know you're resourceful enough to be able to do it, if you want to try, and we'll help if we can.

At least link to which model it is on their site, as we might be able to help you figure out basic possible fixes from that and the symptoms.

I'm first going to guess that it's just the connection to the throttle wires themselves, possibly even just the ground wire, if the voltage indicator is on the throttle assembly. The reason for this guess is that the ground is common to both the battery-level voltage coming up to the power meter, and the hall-sensor voltage for the throttle itself. If it's open, neither will work, or at least not correctly, in any of the throttles of that type I've seen so far.

THe wire could just be poorly crimped in the controller-end connector, or maybe not even soldered down inside the controller, if it has the same symptoms on more than one throttle. If it hasn't been tested with another throttle, then I'd also check the crimps on the throttle end of the connector, as well as inside the throttle housing.