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EZip Trailz 36V Battery Upgrade

Joined
Mar 7, 2012
Messages
18
Location
Delray Beach, FL
Shortly after getting my EZip Trailz bike I upgraded it to use two 36V 10Ah batteries instead of the standard two 24V 10 Ah Currie packs. Below are some photos showing what I did on 3/18/12...

4132es.jpg

4148es.jpg

4151es.jpg

4172es.jpg

4180es.jpg

4185es.jpg
 
OK, now I see exactly what you did. Yeah, I can imagin the add-on storage does make you a little top heavy though. Have you considered putting the extra set of batteries on the top bar? Way back in my early days I rode with a 2 -24v 18AH lead packs on my top bar. IT wasn't an EZip bike though and the top bar was basicly level. I was supprised that the bike didn't handle as bad as I thought it would. In fact I'm moding this same bike to use an EZip 24v motor setup in the "V" running 48v (no I will not actually feed it with 48v though). I will power it with a set of 24v 20ah lifepo4 packs. The top of the packs are mounted level to the top bar. The motor BTW drives the left side of a Nuvinci hub through a second chain..

Bob
 
I just noticed I had posted on this tread and given wrong information. When I was doing my last Ebike mod I said I was mounting a Currie 24v motor in the "V" and going to run it from a set of 24v 20ah packs but maintaining it at 24v. Well I never botthered going withthe 24v. I never went 24v with it. I had a 48v 50a controller sitting on the bench and used it. I only have a few hundred miles on it this way but it seems to work fine. I have a digital temp prob on the motor giving a temp reading on a gauge on my top bar. If the temp gets to 150F I lighten the throttle. It has great eff, torque and speed with this setup. And I did do a direct drive through the Nuvinci hub. I can generally run the local trails for about 30+ miles before the packs start pooping out. They are starting to show their age and I'm only getting about 14.5ah out of them now.

Bob
 
This is the charger I ordered from BatteryStuff.com to charge my 36V setup...
36v 4 amp charger by Japlar
http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/36-volt/JAC0891-102.html
 
I hate to bust your bubble but that charger is to high of amperage for your pack. I know it's nice to recharge fast but there is a reason why Currie uses a 1.5 or 1.8a charger on the 10ah packs (that you have). It's because the max recommended charge rate for lead is .25 of the ah rating. Therefore, a 10ah pack should not exceed 2.5a. So you may find that you shorten the packs life charging at 4a.

Bob

EDIT: After re-reading the specs I noticed the charger is supposed to adjust current based on the AH rating of the pack. Hopefully it actually does this and will lower the amperage to below 2.5a max. Might want to call them if you can.
 
Looks well done. When I had an Ezip (2007 or 2008 model) it could take 36 volts with the stock controller. I ordered an empty battery case off of ebay and put a 12v10ah SLA in there and ran that in series with the original pack. For charging, I disconnected the series connection and charged with separate 12 and 24 volt chargers. I got rid of it a couple of years ago, but the thing really flew on 36v, with the catch of it being noisy.
 
V_Mark said:
Looks well done. When I had an Ezip (2007 or 2008 model) it could take 36 volts with the stock controller. I ordered an empty battery case off of ebay and put a 12v10ah SLA in there and ran that in series with the original pack. For charging, I disconnected the series connection and charged with separate 12 and 24 volt chargers. I got rid of it a couple of years ago, but the thing really flew on 36v, with the catch of it being noisy.

You should have tried i on 48v.....of course the controller would have needed replacement.

Bob
 
littlebear72_91 said:
Does anyone know the amp limits of the stock controller? Sound like 36 is the limit for voltage.

They switched out the controllers a few years ago. The older ones could take 36v with no issues. The new ones can't.
 
V Mark is correct. In "09 they modified the controllers to stop people from overvolting them. The max voltage from early "09 was aprox 29.2 to 29.6v. In any case the US sold bikes have a 24v 35a controller. The older controllers were the same 24v 35a but could be over volted till they went poof.

Bob
 
littlebear72_91 said:
Great thank you for the info, I have an older bike (the blue one, bought it on craigslist) with a serial number starting out as "ACA"
I see that this site sells controllers http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/currie-controller-izip-ezip-electric-bicycle-ac-serials.html
This link leads me to believe that the "BM" serial numbers http://www.currietech.com/dealers/w...new Currie kit has a 35 amp controller on it.
 
littlebear72_91 said:
Great thank you for the info, I have an older bike (the blue one, bought it on craigslist) with a serial number starting out as "ACA"
I see that this site sells controllers http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/currie-controller-izip-ezip-electric-bicycle-ac-serials.html
This link leads me to believe that the "BM" serial numbers http://www.currietech.com/dealers/w...e you looking at a base 24v controller? Bob
 
Bob I was trying to identify which controller I have to see if I could go to 36 volts and how many amps. Looks like the controller can do 36 volts and at least 20 amps
 
littlebear72_91 said:
Bob I was trying to identify which controller I have to see if I could go to 36 volts and how many amps. Looks like the controller can do 36 volts and at least 20 amps

Got ya.....Not trying to be a PITA but your numbers don't work out quite right. Why are you thinking you would get 36v 20a? That's only 720w and if you have a stock Currie controller (24v 35a) the stock controller would supply 840w. I'm thinking your stock controller running 36v would deliver a full 35a for 1260w. Otherwise, your taking a step backward. Of course all these numbers depend on the battery being able to support the load. And those 10ah lead packs just don't get it done so you kind of "get what you get" with them.

The nice thing about jumping to 48v is you can use the stock battery mounting for 2 packs. Of course the stock controller would need to be replaced. And of course you would need to monitor the motor's heat.

Bob
 
dumbass said:
littlebear72_91 said:
Bob I was trying to identify which controller I have to see if I could go to 36 volts and how many amps. Looks like the controller can do 36 volts and at least 20 amps

Got ya.....Not trying to be a PITA but your numbers don't work out quite right. Why are you thinking you would get 36v 20a? That's only 720w and if you have a stock Currie controller (24v 35a) the stock controller would supply 840w. I'm thinking your stock controller running 36v would deliver a full 35a for 1260w. Otherwise, your taking a step backward.

Bob
Actually ... as demonstrated by the ebikes.ca simulator, 36V 20A is a fabulous performance increase over the 24V 35A controller.


Performance from ~9mph and up is greatly increased, without the increase in damaging heat at lower speeds.
Also, the lower amperage controller produces a torque curve that produces the greatest motor output at near to top speed, rather than at mid speed.
Instead of the motor losing power above 10 mph, power continues to increase right past 20 mph.

Of course, you could produce the exact same power profile with a larger controller ... it just requires throttle restraint at lower speeds.
 
DrkAngel said:
dumbass said:
littlebear72_91 said:
Bob I was trying to identify which controller I have to see if I could go to 36 volts and how many amps. Looks like the controller can do 36 volts and at least 20 amps

Got ya.....Not trying to be a PITA but your numbers don't work out quite right. Why are you thinking you would get 36v 20a? That's only 720w and if you have a stock Currie controller (24v 35a) the stock controller would supply 840w. I'm thinking your stock controller running 36v would deliver a full 35a for 1260w. Otherwise, your taking a step backward.

Bob
Actually ... as demonstrated by the ebikes.ca simulator, 36V 20A is a fabulous performance increase over the 24V 35A controller.


Performance from ~9mph and up is greatly increased, without the increase in damaging heat at lower speeds.
Also, the lower amperage controller produces a torque curve that produces the greatest motor output at near to top speed, rather than at mid speed.
Instead of the motor losing power above 10 mph, power continues to increase right past 20 mph.

Of course, you could produce the exact same power profile with a larger controller ... it just requires throttle restraint at lower speeds.
I've been reading all this and I just bought an ezip for $30 from a scrap yard and after a little cleaning and a few adjustments the bike looks and rides great on paddling cause I don't have a battery. I'm looking to buy a battery for it and would like to know which one to get (looking to upgrade to 36v)
I wish I can post photos but photos are too large anyway my controller says 09/13/2009 24v 35a, thank yous.
 
Albeegood said:
I've been reading all this and I just bought an ezip for $30 from a scrap yard and after a little cleaning and a few adjustments the bike looks and rides great on paddling cause I don't have a battery. I'm looking to buy a battery for it and would like to know which one to get (looking to upgrade to 36v)
I wish I can post photos but photos are too large anyway my controller says 09/13/2009 24v 35a, thank yous.
<50% chance controller supports 36V. You'll have to try-test to confirm.
~ $12 24-36V controller available.
33.3V Lipo should run bike nicely at ~20mph.

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