EZip Trailz LS - 2013

Oh heck, we're not arguing at all. We're just exchanging opinions with each other with the hope we may all learn something from it. Being that I'm 66 yo, 6'2" and 215 lbs. I can tell you the same thing happens with us heavy weights with the Pas system. It always feels like you are one step behind it and it is in a race to stay ahead of you instead of just working with you. That's why I prefer to just use the throttle. I give just enough throttle to ease the load my knees are feeling. But as you pointed out this is not good for your hands which is understood.

Now if you want to talk improvements....how about moving the on/off switch to the handle bar? I've had the fun of a run-away controller and believe me I am glad I moved my off switch to the handle bar. When a conrtoller fails it can fail at full throttle. And while the brake switches are there to help this situation don't bank on it. I'm sure you have already found that if you don't tap the throttle within 5 minutes the controller goes to sleep. And you have to stop the bike get off and turn the switch off then on again.. My wife only uses the motor when she comes to a hill. And 50% of the time the controller is already taking a nap.. After we relized what was happening I told her to just tap the throttle every few minutes to keep it awake. The way they have it now it's like putting the key in the trunk of the car to start the engine. Yes I know they already had the box and had room for the switch. But it wouldn't cost them spit to install it on the handle bar. And it would solve the controller nap problem and add safety at the same time.

Bob
 
I definitely agree on the location of the selector switch. As for the 'sleep' function, either I don't go five minutes without using either mode, or my bike doesn't do that - I'm honestly not sure which. I find that riding up hills in 2nd stops the PAS from making me pedal too fast; if the hill is so steep I have to shift to 1st, the bike slows enough that I can handle it.
 
My bikes are 2009 models and I can't say if the sleep mode is still in the newer controllers. But I have read reports from several people who thought the sleep mode was actually turning off the controller completely. They relized their error by parking the bike for a few days in the garage while in the sleep mode ( they left the switch on because the controller had gone to sleep already). When they came back to the bike they found the batteries totally discharged. Of course we all know they should have charged the pack as soon as they finished their ride. SLA doesn't like sitting below full charge.

Bob
 
My bikes are 2009 models and I can't say if the sleep mode is still in the newer controllers. But I have read reports from several people who thought the sleep mode was actually turning off the controller completely. They relized their error by parking the bike for a few days in the garage while in the sleep mode ( they left the switch on because the controller had gone to sleep already). When they came back to the bike they found the batteries totally discharged. Of course we all know they should have charged the pack as soon as they finished their ride. SLA doesn't like sitting below full charge.

Bob
 
lbz5mc12 said:
When I originally bought my Skyline I disabled the PAS because it was to weak for me. I could easily out pedal it even uphill.
Click to expand...


Isn't that a 250 watt hub motor? I think 250 watts is about what PAS provides on the EZIP.
 
EZip Skyline uses the external gear reduction motor, like the Trailz except only 250w.
Easy plug-n-play upgrade to the XYD-16 450w motor.
Can also use the 16T, 13T or 11T mods.
 

Attachments

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Thanks. I think I just assumed that 250 watts would be a hub motor. Speaking of different sprocket teeth, I think that if anything I'd want to drop a tooth on the motor sprocket. That would make PAS mode more comfortable and the bike super-strong on hills. I never ride at 17MPH under power anyway...
 
Actually it wasn't a big deal. I prefer to use the throttle when I pedal. I was using the 16 tooth freewheel and running 36V through it. Everything worked fine until I decided to test out a higher amp universal scooter controller with it and burned the motor. I still have all my parts I just went back to the hub motor route. On the motor I installed a 13 tooth freewheel gear from bike motive on ebay. I don't think they have anymore. I was thinking of doing both the 16 tooth and 13 tooth at 36V for a high speed set up but changed my mind and went back to hub motors.
 
Hub motors are quiet, at least, and there's no chain to adjust. Just all those Hall sensors, waiting to fail. ;)
 
LeftieBiker said:
Thanks. I think I just assumed that 250 watts would be a hub motor. Speaking of different sprocket teeth, I think that if anything I'd want to drop a tooth on the motor sprocket. That would make PAS mode more comfortable and the bike super-strong on hills. I never ride at 17MPH under power anyway...
Click to expand...
22T freewheel available from Staton-inc.com for a ~10% torque increase-speed decrease.

27T buildable with "5 Hole Flange LEFT HAND thread freewheel - sprag clutch" & "410 A 27 tooth Sprocket, 1/2" x 1/8" machined to fit the 5 or 10 hole flange Left or Right hand threaded freewheels" - Might be close on clearance to motor sprocket?
Staton-inc Left Hand Screw items
 
LeftieBiker said:
You mean this one? http://www.staton-inc.com/store/pro...HREAD_Freewheel_Sprocket_1_2_x_1_8-700-0.html

Does it attach with no modification? I find it very difficult to work near the ground these days, and have no bike stand. I also think it might make more sense to just dial back the power to PAS, if someone can tell me how. Still, $25 shipped isn't a bad price...
Click to expand...
3572.jpg

Might need longer chain?
Screws on easily ... but no notches for easy removal, same design as the old eZip freewheels.

I believe the PAS function is internal to the controller, (after 2008).
Will investigate during next controller upgrade.
 
I'm having nerve problems with my shoulders and arms, and need to get the handlebar on my 2013 EZIP Trailz closer to me so I can ride bolt upright. I have the stem up as far as is safe. What's the best adjustable stem that will fit my bike, allow me to adjust the bars close to me, and will clamp the existing handlebar without having to disassemble it? The bike has been great for me overall, and the 24V 20AH Ping pack makes it a real pleasure to ride for longer distances at higher speeds.
 
LeftieBiker said:
I'm having nerve problems with my shoulders and arms, and need to get the handlebar on my 2013 EZIP Trailz closer to me so I can ride bolt upright. I have the stem up as far as is safe. What's the best adjustable stem that will fit my bike, allow me to adjust the bars close to me, and will clamp the existing handlebar without having to disassemble it? The bike has been great for me overall, and the 24V 20AH Ping pack makes it a real pleasure to ride for longer distances at higher speeds.
Click to expand...
Easy fix.
I've done it for an old lady with short arms.
All you need is allen wrenches.

1. Loosen stem nut.
2. Remove 2 nut plate holding handle bar to stem.
3. Rotate stem 180 degrees.
4. Reattach handle bar with the 2 nut plate.
Handle bar is now ~5" closer to seat.
Bonus! Nut crusher function of stem is nullified!
 
I considered that, but is the angle of the reversed stem going to be ok? Won't it lower the height even as it brings the bars closer? I know that other bikes have stems with adjustable arms, and was looking at one on monster parts for $28. I'm willing to give your approach a try, but I do need all the height I can get from the stem.
 
Might take ~ 5 minutes ... give it a try and see.
 
It worked! The stem angle is less than I'd remembered, and I was able to make up for the slight drop by finding another 1/2" of stem height above the maximum mark. The bike not only lets me ride completely upright now, it's also more stable: before it was a somewhat dicey proposition to take both hands off the bars while moving, but now it's as stable as my old Shelby, which I could ride with no hands while standing on the pedals. I won't be doing any of that, of course, but the stability does come through in one-handed riding, which I still do occasionally, when alone on the road. At least now when I do it, my left hand is wrapped firmly around the grip, rather than semi-grasping it with three fingers. The new configuration doesn't even look funny - it looks more aerodynamic. Thanks for the suggestion, DA! If a FAQ for the EZIP exists anywhere, this should be in it.
 
I'll post some photos in the near future, also showing the 20AH 24V Ping pack I installed.
 
Ok, here are some photos of the Trailz with the bar stem reversed, allowing me to ride upright. Also a photo or three of the Ping Pack in its padded 'thermos" case... looks like I didn't upload the photo of the inside of the case, with the BMS on top. Oh, well.







 
The more I ride it like this, the more impressed I am with how much more stable the steering is with the bars well behind the front axle.
 
Might as well add the 28.6mm suspension seat post. - $20.85
 
I considered those even before I developed problems with riding, but I'm one of the few EZIP riders who actually *pedals all the time* (except when I'm going downhill too fast to pedal) and I don't want the distance between the seat and pedals to keep changing. It would probably be helpful if I set it so stiff that it only moved on bumps over which I wouldn't be pedaling anyway, but it's never been a priority. Still, it's worth considering again, I guess. What's the model that is best for really stiff settings? I weigh about 175lbs 'suited up'.
 
On to another issue I've been having with an otherwise amazingly defect-free bike: I'm now getting a periodic loud click (or light clunk, perhaps) from what I think is the motor drive system. Disengaging and then gently re-engaging it with the throttle will usually get rid of it. I'm thinking of whatever one-way drive the hub uses - that it may be wearing out. Is this a known issue with the EZIPs? If so, is there a better wheel/hub available that will replace the OEM unit?
 
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