zombiess
10 MW
After testing out my batch of 18 FET IRFB4115 controllers and coming to the conclusion they are thermally limited to around 100A-120A bursts I decided to test out my older IRFB4115 EB224 test controller I just installed a temp probe in on the high side FET, I had purchased a bunch of K-type thermocouples just to do these kinds of comparisons.
18 FET IRFB4115 at 75V 100A battery, 135A phase will get to 100C in about 1 min of WOT from a cold start
24 FET IRFB4115 at 75V 130A battery, 200A phase will get up to 60C if you continuously beat on it for several minutes including full regen stops. I then cranked it up to 160A battery, 200A phase and repeated, still couldn't get it over 72C no matter how hard I was abusing it. I had intended to do a 100A comparison with the 24 FET controller, but once I got out and tested it I realized it was pointless as there would be no way for me to get the controller temp over 60C at such a low current.
Battery pack was 74.4V fully charged 18AH Turnigy Nanotech on a battery harness not really up to the task of such high current since it has a small section of 10 AWG in it. I am fixing that soon. Motor is a 18.6Kv Cromotor in an 18.3" tire, acceleration at 9kW getting up to +50mph =
and I know I'm not even pushing the motor or controller yet. Needs 100V and +200A to really torture test it properly. Bike rides buttery smooth with the Throttle Tamer, I also turned on slip charge which is such a nice feature. I love how the bike rides with it on, very easy to control and more regen as a bonus.
Difference in phase amp settings is because the EB3xx boards handle phase current differently from the EB2xx boards. Modding the shunt in an EB3xx boards only effects the battery amps as far as I can tell and I have modded an 18 FET controller from 1.3mOhm to 0.5mOhm and kept the phase amps the same, bike rode the same when battery amps were adjusted back to the same level and regen current stayed the same. All temperature measurements were taking with a K-Type thermocouple directly in contact with the high side MOSFET in each controller.
18 FET IRFB4115 at 75V 100A battery, 135A phase will get to 100C in about 1 min of WOT from a cold start
24 FET IRFB4115 at 75V 130A battery, 200A phase will get up to 60C if you continuously beat on it for several minutes including full regen stops. I then cranked it up to 160A battery, 200A phase and repeated, still couldn't get it over 72C no matter how hard I was abusing it. I had intended to do a 100A comparison with the 24 FET controller, but once I got out and tested it I realized it was pointless as there would be no way for me to get the controller temp over 60C at such a low current.
Battery pack was 74.4V fully charged 18AH Turnigy Nanotech on a battery harness not really up to the task of such high current since it has a small section of 10 AWG in it. I am fixing that soon. Motor is a 18.6Kv Cromotor in an 18.3" tire, acceleration at 9kW getting up to +50mph =
and I know I'm not even pushing the motor or controller yet. Needs 100V and +200A to really torture test it properly. Bike rides buttery smooth with the Throttle Tamer, I also turned on slip charge which is such a nice feature. I love how the bike rides with it on, very easy to control and more regen as a bonus.Difference in phase amp settings is because the EB3xx boards handle phase current differently from the EB2xx boards. Modding the shunt in an EB3xx boards only effects the battery amps as far as I can tell and I have modded an 18 FET controller from 1.3mOhm to 0.5mOhm and kept the phase amps the same, bike rode the same when battery amps were adjusted back to the same level and regen current stayed the same. All temperature measurements were taking with a K-Type thermocouple directly in contact with the high side MOSFET in each controller.
